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HVAC fan- interior What do ppl do? Mine is squeeky noisy

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samiam44

E500E **Meister**
Member
Ok,


My 500e is a 93' so it has more options on 124 fan motors. But as always, I have have Bosch motor(try and R&R the cages), assembly Behr, or buy it from Mercedes, or some other aftermarket fans.

Love to hear ppls opinions. Like waste of time to even try on the Bosch only re-use cages. Or patience and an hr will save you $100- it's worth it.



Michael
 
Don't bother trying to replace a motor or cage. COMPLETE waste of time/money.

Buy the entire new fan, and the blower motor regulator. Replace both at the same time. Get quality aftermarket, not URO.

What do you mean by "My 500e is a 93' so it has more options on 124 fan motors"?

All 124s with ACC should have the same blower fan assembly that is pertinent for that year ... i.e. MY 1994 fans/regulators changed a bit when the cabin air filters were introduced. But even then, there is (from my knowledge) a single blower motor/regulator design across all W124 models any given year that had ACC.

Please advise.

Cheers,
Gerry
 
There are two styles of fan and reg.. those with cabin air and those without.

The swapping of cages is one of the most maddening endeavours out there...sadistic fellow who thought that would be a good idea!

Jono
 
Gerry,

What I meant is the cabin filter models, there are only OE, OEM option. There are more options for the non-cabin filter.

Looks like the Behr is the only good option ~$150. ACM is only $10/savings.

IS KAE the OEM supplier for the fan resistors?? That bugger is as much as the fan/motor assy.

M
 
Micheal,

I would hold off on the resister, with a new fan and motor the performance might surprise you. When I first acquired my car in 06 it was my second MB, I thought "Wow what a well designed system, the blower waits until the condenser is chilled before it starts blowing". Three years later it started squeaking. When I removed it you could barely turn the fan at all, by hand. With new motor installed I run almost full time on the low speed and only switch to auto mode when I first get in the car in the dead of summer here in SA. Like most things the resister is built for the starter circuit of a WWII diesel tank and probably has a half life of 500 years. The down side is that it does now start blowing immediately and blows all of the preheated air into the car upon startup,
 
Ditto what Gerry said. OEM / Behr complete blower assembly only if replacing.

You can try lubricating the bushings on the motor to eliminate squeaking, but this tends to be a temporary fix and the squeak will usually return within a year or so.

:watermelon:
 
To my knowledge, Kaehler (KAE) is NOT the OE supplier to MB for the blower regulators. However in many cases they are the ONLY aftermarket alternative to factory, which is even more expensive.

This is not a horribly difficult job to replace the blower motor and regulator, but there is NO better opportunity to replace the regulator than when the fan is out, because the fan MUST come out to get to the regulator. And regulators DO die, unexpectedly. Thus, it is just prudent to replace the regulator when you do the fan. Sure, it is an extra $150-200 for the part, but trust me, the labor is only 10-15 minutes incremental when the fan is out as opposed to a couple of hours to do it if the regulator dies and the fan has to come out again. Who wants to do the same exact job again in a year or three?

I do understand that not everyone subscribes to my "proactive" philosophy on maintenance. It's sort of like replacing the transmission tunnel "blanket" on the .036, or the rear main seal, when the transmission is removed from the car. Neither often HAS to be replaced, because they are probably only slightly frayed/worn/baked (blanket) or slightly weeping (rear main seal) and not obviously leaking.

But when that rear main seal DOES start leaking, or that blanket gives way and comes down a year or three after you changed out the transmission, you'll be kicking yourself for not taking care of it when it was fully exposed.

Cheers,
Gerry
 
Not to be contraian, but IME over the past few years, if the blower motor is on it's way out or has gone out it's usually done a number on the resistor as well...the added draw of trying to spin that motor as it tightens up gets the resistor MIGHTY HOT...!

Was getting to the point where I would do blower motors only to be back in there w/ in a year or less to do the resistor..and since you have to take the bloody motor out to get to the resistor the efficiency side of my brain went into convulsions...

lube is good. ATF works GREAT....I like to take the motor out, up end it and keep the atf sitting on the bushing over night...really soaks into the bronze/bronzolite or what ever they are bushing with these days. Of course take 2 days to hit both side. If you can, keep it someplace Warm to help the metal open up.

jono
 
Jono,

Was it you that mentioned it is possible on cabin filter models to oil the bushing through the filter area??



Michael
 
errr...I don't see how you could do a Proper job with it in the car. You really want the lubricant to work it's way Down into the bushing, and trying to do so from a horizontal plane of attack would never Really do the trick IMHO.


jono
 
errr...I don't see how you could do a Proper job with it in the car. You really want the lubricant to work it's way Down into the bushing, and trying to do so from a horizontal plane of attack would never Really do the trick IMHO.


jono

Rotisserie? :-)
 
Was it you that mentioned it is possible on cabin filter models to oil the bushing through the filter area??
It's not possible to lube the motor bushings without removing everything to access the motor, and at that point, it's no more work to unplug the wires and put it on the workbench. Same on both filtered and unfiltered models.

Photos of new blower/motor assemblies are here, click the top links:
http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_dash/

:pc1:
 
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