Ignition Coils - Part numbers

[500ESpain]

Hi,

This is a very basic question, I know , but I haven't been able to find an answer on the EPC. Sorry too if this has been previously discussed but I haven't been able to find it either

I know there is a ignition coil on the driver side of the car but is there another one for the other cylinder bank? If so, where is it located? (I don't have access to the car these days so I can't check it by myself, sorry).

Please, correct me if I'm wrong:

- Mercedes Part Number: A 000 158 64 03 (Bosch # 0 221 502 433 or 00086) Driver Side

- Mercedes Part Number: A 000 158 65 03 (Bosch # 0 221 502 435 or 00087) Passenger Side

Thanks!

 

[gsxr]

Yes, there are two coils, one for each distributor, each feeding 4 cylinders. Both coils are located below the ABS/ASR unit on the driver's side. They are next to each other, and well hidden.

 

[500ESpain]

Thank you very much!

 

[Benzer]

Should you need to remove them, you need to remove the drivers side headlight first, otherwise I can't see how anyone can get to the bolts holding them in place, running from the bottom up.

 

[500ESpain]

Thanks for the tip!

 

[Benzer]

Sure thing.. Viva España..!!. My mom is from Zaragoza..

 

[500ESpain]

Viva! I use to pass by Zaragoza on my trips from Gerona, Northeast of Spain and where I work now, to Madrid.

 

[Benzer]

Nice, one of these days I might swing by.. Maybe do the Sanfermin..

Cheers..!!

 

[500ESpain]

Let me know if you do!

 

[samiam44]

Need help with part numbers... I've got the passenger side coil (435), need drivers side. Amazon lists them by cylinder 1-4 or 5-8?? And they are listed as 0087 and 0086.

 

[emerydc8]

Bosch 0 221 502 435; aka 00087

Bosch 0 221 502 433; aka 00086

You can plug these numbers into autohausaz.com to get the 00086 and 00087 numbers.

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pr...&cid=25@Ignition Parts&gid=7060@Ignition Coil

It is counter intuitive because the coil mounted closest to the passenger side (0086) actually drives the cylinders on the driver's side (5-8).

 

[Cadence]

Bosch 0 221 502 435; aka 00087

Bosch 0 221 502 433; aka 00086

I just removed this pair from my 500E - exact age unknown but clearly quite new and in correct working order. Would be happy to sell for a very reasonable price

 

[clarkz71]

I just removed this pair from my 500E - exact age unknown but clearly quite new and in correct working order. Would be happy to sell for a very reasonable price

PM sent, interested

 

[samiam44]

Thanks... I hope I got it right this time ordering via amazon! Oh well, I did pick one up cheap from Rockautoparts and the other they send me a pickup(as it is a M104 coil) cataloged as a M119=0( The dephi 10011 is the bosch passenger side (0221 502 435).

Michael

 

[samiam44]

Thanks... I hope I got it right this time ordering via amazon! Oh well, I did pick one up cheap from Rockautoparts and the other they send me a pickup(as it is a M104 coil) cataloged as a M119=0( The dephi 10011 is the bosch passenger side (0221 502 435).

Michael

 

[Trae]

Driving the 93', parked, ate lunch, and started car again.

Ran horribly. Pulled this code:

pin 17, code 15


"Ignition coil 1 output from DI control module (N1/3) defective or primary winding

of ignition coil has open circuit."

Which coil is this? The left or right coil?

I will pull the driver's headlight when I get time and inspect both, but it would be nice to know which one the code says it is.

 

[gsxr]

 

[Trae]

Cool!

I'll pull it when I get the chance to see if there is any corrosion of the wire.

 

[Trae]

Is there a possibility that a bad cap and rotor could throw this code:

"Ignition coil 1 output from DI control module (N1/3) defective or primary winding

of ignition coil has open circuit."

It felt like I was driving on 4 cylinders, so I suspect the #1 coil or wire.

 

[Klink]

Is there a possibility that a bad cap and rotor could throw this code:

"Ignition coil 1 output from DI control module (N1/3) defective or primary winding

of ignition coil has open circuit."

It felt like I was driving on 4 cylinders, so I suspect the #1 coil or wire.

Most likely a bad coil. Next most likely is the EZL

 

[Trae]

At 230k, do you recommend proactively replacing both coils at the same time?

I don't want to do any damage to the EZL!

 

[gerryvz]

A couple of things relating to coils and the EZL:

1. Replace both coils at the same time. Do not replace one coil and not the other. Keep a good coil as an emergency spare, however. Bosch or MB only.

2. If you ever replace EZL, ALWAYS replace both coils at the same time. Bad coil(s) can permanently damage the EZL, and they are expensive enough that you don't want to let a relatively cheap (but faulty) coil taint your newly installed EZL.

Cheers,
Gerry

 

[Trae]

Alright, I will replace both coils and hopefully my EZL is OK.

I only drove it 6 miles to the house using 4 cylinders.

I did not get any codes dealing with the EZL.

If it were the EZL, would there be any codes associated with it?

 

[gerryvz]

When my EZL died back in early 2009, I drove my car about 10 miles to a local shop on four cylinders with no ill effect (other than it sounded and responded like crap). EZLs have two failure modes - either the whole thing dies (all 8 cylinders) or as in my case you lose a complete bank of cylinders.

I had no EZL or coil-related codes when my EZL failed.

I'd check coil failure first though. If it is a bad coil, then replace both. If coils are OK, then probably the EZL. If you replace EZL, then replace both coils with new ones. You want to provide the cleanest & strongest possible electrical flow to/from that EZL and to the caps/rotors.

 

[gsxr]

Measure the coil resistance. If one is clearly different, it's probably just the coil. If both measure the same, then the EZL is suspect. Either way, you need a pair of new Bosch or Beru coils.

 

[Trae]

Thanks for the quick reply.
Here is my novice plan:

1. Check connections and resistance. If no luck,
2. Replace both coils. If no luck, cry a little. . .and
3. Look for EZL.

keeping fingers crossed that it is what the code says it is. . . Coil number 1.

 

[gerryvz]

My bet is that you have a bunk coil, so the solution would be to just get two new ones. Check Amazon and AHAZ for the best prices.

Oh, and have fun replacing them !! NEEEEEEED HOW-TO !!!!

 

[gsxr]

How-To:

1) Remove driver headlight.
2) Replace coils.
3) Install driver headlight and adjust beam pattern.

Note: You don't have to remove the headlight, but if your hands are larger than those of the average 5-year-old, it will be way easier with the headlight removed.

 

[nocfn]

Battery?

 

[gsxr]

Nah, the battery isn't in the way... safely tucked away in the tunk.

 

[nocfn]

Shocking

 

[2phast]

How-To:

1) Remove driver headlight.
2) Replace coils.
3) Install driver headlight and adjust beam pattern.

Note: You don't have to remove the headlight, but if your hands are larger than those of the average 5-year-old, it will be way easier with the headlight removed.

I wear a size 7 glove (small) and there was no way to work around the headlight to remove the coils. Even with the headlight removed, getting them out, not losing the bolts/nuts and getting them installed AND the bolts/nuts installed was a PITA. No way I could of done this with the drivers headlight in place.

 

[Christian_K]

I wear a size 7 glove (small) and there was no way to work around the headlight to remove the coils. Even with the headlight removed, getting them out, not losing the bolts/nuts and getting them installed AND the bolts/nuts installed was a PITA. No way I could of done this with the drivers headlight in place.

Same here... it was one of the most PITA jobs i have done. Today after having repaced the ABS/ASR Block some days ago, which sits above the coils, i would just loosen the ASR-Blocks bolts, raise it a bit and call it a day.

 

[gsxr]

I wear a size 7 glove (small) and there was no way to work around the headlight to remove the coils. Even with the headlight removed, getting them out, not losing the bolts/nuts and getting them installed AND the bolts/nuts installed was a PITA. No way I could of done this with the drivers headlight in place.

Rik, I agree 100%. I didn't even think it was possible until a couple people posted that they were able to do it with the headlight installed. My blood pressure would shoot to unsafe levels if I tried to do the job with the headlight in place.

 

[2phast]

Rik, I agree 100%. I didn't even think it was possible until a couple people posted that they were able to do it with the headlight installed. My blood pressure would shoot to unsafe levels if I tried to do the job with the headlight in place.

I hear ya. I tried with the headlight in place as well, after 20 minutes I just pulled the light. While the level of profanity did subside, there was still a gratuitous amount echoing around in my garage ;-)

 

[gerryvz]

Awww, come on, this is a MUCH nicer job than doing E500E motor mounts, or a lower wiring harness....

 

[2phast]

Awww, come on, this is a MUCH nicer job than doing E500E motor mounts, or a lower wiring harness....

Yea your right (hence why my lower harness has not been replaced)

 

[modzona]

Awww, come on, this is a MUCH nicer job than doing E500E motor mounts, or a lower wiring harness....

Almost every job is nicer than those two.

 

[gsxr]

Let's not forget chain rails, or a front crank seal... those are fun too!

 

[gerryvz]

The absolute WORST is replacing the power steering hose under the heat shield along the driver's side frame rail.

That job is SO bad that I chickened out of doing it.....

 

[Christian_K]

The absolute WORST is replacing the power steering hose under the heat shield along the driver's side frame rail.

That job is SO bad that I chickened out of doing it.....

Interesting. I should have known that already as my engine was out of the car twice... What i did however was the S-Line... to bad.

I will have my Heads remove next week, i suspect this makes enough room for a change of those lines?

 

[gerryvz]

The S-line was not horrible with the engine in the car.

The frame rail line gives me chills even now, sitting here thinking about it.

Michael and GSXR say it can be done with the engine in the car.

 

[gsxr]

Interesting. I should have known that already as my engine was out of the car twice... What i did however was the S-Line... to bad.

I will have my Heads remove next week, i suspect this makes enough room for a change of those lines?

With the heads removed, there should be better access. Remove the heat shield if possible. And yep, you shoulda done this while the engine was out...

Michael and GSXR say it can be done with the engine in the car.

I did it, ONCE, with the engine in the car. NOT fun. Thankfully there were zero leaks when I was done...

 

[null]

Quick question about the part numbers:

I can see 2 different sets from Bosch on 95 1995 Mercedes E420 Ignition Coil - Engine Electrical - APA/URO Parts, Bosch, DIY Solutions, Intermotor, NGK, Prenco, Standard Motor Products, WSO, Walker, Left, Right - PartsGeek
Part Number: W0133-2582321 & Part Number: W0133-1609551
and
Part Number: 6397-08002777 & Part Number: 6397-08002778

The latter one looks newer model, just judging by pictures.

Any thoughts on which set would be better?

 

[gsxr]

The OE (Mercedes) and OEM (Bosch) part numbers are in post #1 on this thread.

The part numbers you list are from aftermarket catalogs, the Wxxxx-xxxxxx numbers are WorldPac catalog format. Not sure about the others.

Make sure you are buying Bosch coils, not any other brand.

I would not buy from PartsGeek unless they have the best price (including tax & shipping) and/or the parts are not available from other vendors. The PG catalog & interface is terrible, and they don't tell you sales tax is charged until the end of checkout. ALSO, from ANY vendor, most photos shown are stock photos, often not current/accurate depicting what you will receive. PartsGeek's site does not allow searching by part number which makes them my absolute last choice to buy from, period. Normally you get the part number from the EPC and search based on that. Never trust vendor catalogs, like the guy yesterday (@ArauzMotoring?) who trusted the FCP catalog and got the wrong thermostat for his car.


I'd use one of these three:

https://www.rmeuropean.com/Make/PartNumberSearch.aspx?pnsearch=0001586403
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-benz-ignition-coil-bosch-00086
https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/00087

RME may charge sales tax in CA residents but has free shipping. FCP always charges tax. AHAZ may not charge tax but does charge $9 shipping.

 

[gerryvz]

The @gsxr is correct in that one of those three vendors is the best way to go for the coils. They are essentially mirror images of each other, and are mounted behind, as said at the beginning of the thread, the driver's side headlight.

Only buy the BOSCH coils. No other brand.