OWNER JC220

[JC220]

From testing today and to assist others please note some of my following observations:

TESTING:

• You can take a good used N54 with Key fob over to another car for testing purposes. This will allow you to lock and unlock the car (If there is nothing wrong with the chassis wiring & IR Sensors that is) BUT it will NOT allow start authorisation unless your engine ECU has been correctly virginized or you have it's matching Engine ECU.
• In addition, when you have another N54 in a car and you connect with Star you have to turn the ignition on. The N54 module will then check with the engine ECU if it is a match and if not, will lock the N54 out of star. You cannot see fault codes or anything at all. Nor will it appear on the quick test - nada.
• Star does have actuations within it to allow you to test lock / unlock. But again this will only allow you in if the N54 is paired to your engine ECU.

KEY CUTTING:

• A locksmith needs your N54 module and will de-solder a chip from it. This data is read and software generates a new key file. (Any of 8x slots) This file dump can be saved down for future key generation.
• The 8 leg chip on a used key fob then requires removal, programming with this information and then soldered back to the key.
• This new key will require synchronising before use.
• Keys are numbered from slots 1 -8 and you can use Star to disable a key if desired, either on temporary basis or permanently.

SYNCHRONISING:

• You cannot pair any old used key to a N54 without the steps above. (Locksmith required)
• The keys use rolling codes. Therefore if your fob has been without power or has been pressed more than 250 times away from the car it will require synchronising. (Several methods best to check your manual)

Crucially, at the time of writing from speaking to my dealer today the N54 for my S500 is NLA from Mercedes. (They checked against my VIN, can see it fine but it's not available to order currently) And if it were available its about 650USD.

 

[JC220]

I won't give up on the coupe. The plan of attack is as follows:

Stage 1:

Take a known good tested w140 fob and have locksmith pair this to my S500's original N54. Test newly programmed Key. If key does not work then this "only" leaves the N54 itself as bad.

Stage 2:

Have locksmith de-solder and move the main chip from the original S500 N54 onto another used unit. See if this helps.

PROs of keeping original N54- already tied to engine ECU no virginizing required. Keys could be ordered from dealer in future and will work to VIN. Locksmith can create new keys at any time inexpensively by saving the file dump.

NOTE for central locking to work at all the fob at least must be working with the N54.

Stage 3: Abandon the original N54 and accept that we are down the road of getting a used N54, pairing keys to that and getting the locking working. Then try to virginize the LH ECU again trying several methods until it ties into the unknown N54.

Variation on this - use an emulator on the engine ECU itself- but this is bad for a couple of reasons as below:

• Emulators are cheap devices and can give trouble. Locksmith says they can drop out or become corrupt easily in future.
• No easy way to check this in that if it is at fault you can't actually see the start authorisation missing in live data for example. Guessing game if something goes wrong and the car won't start.
• Loss of ability to order keys from the dealer matched to the car's own N54 in the first place.

Note - finding a used matching LH ECU, N54 and Key here is rare as hens teeth. Might be able to - but don't think so. Easier to work with my locksmith and resolve this.

 

[gsxr]

Joe, how about getting the IRCL working, and then re-wiring to allow using an older LH module? That seems like the best of both worlds. No worries about the engine not starting, but SDS may not communicate with N54 in this scenario... but if IRCL works, do you care?

 

[JC220]

Joe, how about getting the IRCL working, and then re-wiring to allow using an older LH module? That seems like the best of both worlds. No worries about the engine not starting, but SDS may not communicate with N54 in this scenario... but if IRCL works, do you care?

Yes that's one of several fall back positions Dave

My locksmith is keen to keep original so I'll let him try first.

The wiring of the coffin box may be possible yes. Before I'd do that I would get an emulator inside the ECU though. Same result with no re-wiring with slight caveat that my locksmith doesn't think they are much use but I'm sure lots of people do run them just fine.

AND if that emulator worked, get another ECU and do the same thing then keep in trunk. Any non start or stranded swap it in

 

[JC220]

THE S500 LIVES AGAIN!! (To die another day)

Drove to my locksmith with a box of parts and this time the plan was to lift the Chip from my original N54 and Solder into the Ebay N54. He also pulled the data from it to attempt a clone soon when other spare N54s arrive in the post.

He also turned the Engine ECU into a slut again. (Put the original file back in and de-virginized it)

Took those home and bingo the old original key fob is working 100%, the car opens, locks and starts up as it was before. It was clearly a hardware failure inside the original N54 board.

Phew is all I can say!!

We are going to create 2 more spare keys and also, crucially a spare N54 clone. Which I can keep in the glovebox as spare. This way it's no use to anyone without the key - but if it ever does this again and tries to strand me I'll have that unit to slot in which will work with the fobs and engine ECU. And keys can be ordered from the dealer no issues as it is running its own identity in the Ebay N54. Glad I didnt go any other route which would have been a rabbit hole!

 

[JC220]

FWIW This is the N54 Chip that we swapped and which holds both your key data and Engine ECU codes.

 

[outrbnks]

What ever happened to points, condenser, and a coil to keep in the trunk?? How did all those cars run so well for all those years..

I remember riding along and feeling the engine power diminish, pulling over and with a screwdriver, opening up the points with a match book cover as a feeler gauge, then jump back in and drive away... Used to carry around a spare set of points, a condenser, and occasionally a coil.

Oh yea, and the engine bays were like canyons, you could see every spark plug and remove them easily... LOL

 

[JC220]

Hi All,

Some updates coming on the S500 as in a conclusion on the starting troubles but there is another project among my 5x S classes that stands out.

I have thought about taking one of my cars to the north pole for some time now. And this past while I have been thinking that later this year and in my w140 S320 may be ideal. Fill it with LPG and Petrol both and set off on the way up though Norway from NI. What do you guys think? If this is is happening prep needs to happen a good few months in advance so I need to make up my mind and get things in order. Snow tyres and chains that sort of thing.

Would be cool to document via you-tube etc like Harry's garage did in a rolls Royce a couple of years back.

 

[Jlaa]

Hi All,

Some updates coming on the S500 as in a conclusion on the starting troubles but there is another project among my 5x S classes that stands out.

I have thought about taking one of my cars to the north pole for some time now. And this past while I have been thinking that later this year and in my w140 S320 may be ideal. Fill it with LPG and Petrol both and set off on the way up though Norway from NI. What do you guys think? If this is is happening prep needs to happen a good few months in advance so I need to make up my mind and get things in order. Snow tyres and chains that sort of thing.

Would be cool to document via you-tube etc like Harry's garage did in a rolls Royce a couple of years back.

That would be so awesome and it would be the adventure of a lifetime.

Driving Alaska’s Dalton Highway (Published 2015)

Finding that there can be solace in solitude in a 400-mile drive on one of America’s loneliest roads.

www.nytimes.com

 

[Stegel]

So glad you got the coupe working - I would not know where to begin if the same happened to one of my cars.

Not quite the North Pole, but quite close: Arctic Circle road trip - a blog - Page 1 - Roads - PistonHeads

 

[gerryvz]

Aspirational, eh, @JC220?

 

[JC220]

I would like to buy another 5L m119 EZL as a spare - some are on ebay for 150 bucks or so. If any member has one available around that price I'd rather buy off you so let me know! Slim chance but hey may as well ask.

 

[JC220]

Also what is considered a good price for a used m119 transmission?

4 speed?

5 speed?

Just thinking of getting a spare box or two this summer

 

[JC220]

The S500 got its original 18 wheels back on today at last. New tyres were mounted then I spent about 3 hours wet sanding and paint correcting the wheels before mounting them on. They will come off again for new lug bolts and ceramic coating. (Ignore rusty lug bolts!)



Borrowed wheels can go back to S320




Bodywork on the coupe is in dire need of a detail / correction to happen soon.

 

[JC220]

It's been a little while but a few things have been happening. Just got on great with the locksmith yesterday- drove the S500 down and came away with a working brand new spare key (Ebay find which he coded to my car and cut a steel blank key for it too) New A class key on left was sacrificed for it's new circuit board.



I also have 2x additional cloned spare N54 modules and the spare coded LH and all.are totally interchangeable All tested and put away with labels so they will always be with the S500. Oddly I would swear its running much perkier with the spare LH module now installed will leave it in and confirm.... if so then looks like I'll need another LH module coded to keep as a good spare as the original unit may be suspect.

Otherwise I added quite alot to the hoard including a second spare 3.2 m104 and 5x more transmissions. (Including a low miles 722.370 ) Going with my trailer tomorrow and each weekend for the foreseeable to keep adding as many parts as I can from a couple of yards giving great deals currently.

With the parts buying and really organising my bigger garage with new LED lighting etc not many other car updates at present but those will be coming thick and fast soon hopefully

 

[JC220]

MUST RESIST HOARDING

Some w220 C125 ABC goodies spare:


And a start on w220 / C215 spare brembos. Will add another full set of 220 brembos next week and chuck in my silver arrow 129 / 124 brembos to make a dozen or so

 

[JC220]

Reluctantly replacing a reluctor ring in my GFs w204

 

[JC220]

Been tidying up my double garage for quite a while now getting there finally. Got some extra shelving put up tonight and going to install new LED lights over the next few days then start using this garage again to start knocking out jobs on the cars. In particular lots of welding / bodywork to be done starting with the w220s

 

[gsxr]

So. Much. Space. For. HOARDING!!

 

[JC220]

So. Much. Space. For. HOARDING!!

Haha yes that is my first thought! However most of my hoard stuff is strewn In the attic space above. In fact that is bunged solid with parts, bumpers, doors you name it its organised well enough up there for now.

These bays will be used for some used parts storage but mainly engine oils and filters that kind of stuff. Brake tools and fluids and tool kits.

Eg fuel clamp tools, clamps, test gauges and hosing all together on one shelf. So I cant lose track of items I need mid job. Same with brake stuff - blender, pipe benders, fluid and fittings on the next shelf and so forth.

Looking forward to adding some MUCH needed organisation into that garage. 2x more new bays still to go up in there giving me 12 bays total counting existing. Plus 6x in the other garage. I'll be moving parts and supplies with a wheelbarrow for most of tomorrow. And itll be good to remove the new spare ABC strut etc from my kitchen Yes things have got way out of hand

 

[gerryvz]

Hoards are best when they’re climate controlled. As in my basement

 

[JC220]

Still working at the garage itself but took a break today and rebuilt 2x w220 PSE pumps.

These are 2x I recently picked up at a parts yard in unknown condition. One tuned out to have a new motor in it but the installer didnt tighten the screws enough so that was an easy fix.

The other pump had a fried motor but everything else looked great inside. So I installed a new motor into it. Both pumps will now be installed coded and tested in my S600 for a couple of weeks each then removed again, labelled as rebuilt and tested units and put away as spares. (Giving me 7 or 8 spare w220 PSE pumps so far)

 

[JC220]

S600 getting a front brake job tomorrow. You know your brake discs are heavy when they arrive on a hand truck




The front discs and pads on it have plenty of meat left but are vibrating due to prior rust on the inside of the discs due to the car doing minimal miles the past few years. I'll look after these ones and make sure they dont go the same way!

They are MASSIVE brakes. Photos don't convey the scale of them.

 

[JC220]

There is a common problem with this big brembo calipers. That is corrosion occurring between shim plates and the caliper body which bulges the plate out. The micro allen head bolts are then impossible to remove by conventional methods.




New m5 pan bolts ordered from Ebay. Now to clean everything up and correct this issue of pads binding!!

Will take this opportunity to clean and paint the dust shelds etc so as usual on one of my jobs this brake job will take a couple of weeks to do right on both sides.

 

[JC220]

For a long time now I have lusted after a proper car lift- came close to buying one a few times but my garages are not suitable for one in terms of ceiling height.

So my plan this winter (after some urgent car projects are caught up on) is to construct a light steel frame shed just tall enough to take an S class at the top of a lift. I live in a residential area so I cant just put up any size of shed I want.

A friend of mine just yesterday offered to sell me his lift that is a couple of years old since he no longer requires it.



It is a decent lift and more than capable of lifting my heaviest cars with ease. And this will create 2x inside car spaces for my fleet whereby one car be on the lift and it mechanically locks itself so it cant drop. Then a car parks underneath it.

This concept slightly frightens me but it is 100% safe so I'll need to get used to that when the time comes!! I'd love to have 2x more cars in out the elements sooner than later.

But it is an awesome thought that in a couple of weeks I'll have that lift home and that will push me on to create the shed to house it and get it operational by jan or feb all being well. That will transform the way I work at the cars. Will be so much easier than crawling around the floor etc it cant come soon enough!

 

[Jlaa]

There is a common problem with this big brembo calipers. That is corrosion occurring between shim plates and the caliper body which bulges the plate out. The micro allen head bolts are then impossible to remove by conventional methods.

View attachment 108901View attachment 108902View attachment 108903
View attachment 108908View attachment 108904View attachment 108905View attachment 108906View attachment 108907

New m5 pan bolts ordered from Ebay. Now to clean everything up and correct this issue of pads binding!!

Will take this opportunity to clean and paint the dust shelds etc so as usual on one of my jobs this brake job will take a couple of weeks to do right on both sides.

Hi @JC220 --- I learn from pictures of your travails! After you heated up that tiny little allen bolt, how did you get the nut attached onto the allen bolt? For what it is worth, I feel like tiny little hardware like that has no place on brake calipers. Any hardware on brake calipers should be massively oversized / beefy!

I have been doing a brake job today as well. I was irritated because the COATZ rotors in the rear from ECS Tuning were packaged poorly (did not have individual boxes) and therefore the coating on the rotor hats was knocked up. GRRRRRRR. So THAT'S why they were so much cheaper @ ECS Tuning than anywhere else? So I wasted a day re-shooting the hats with cold galvanizing paint.



Finally I am installing the EBC Red Stuff pads that @kiev and @gsxr has been asking about.

Also ---- what tool are you using to push back all of those 8 pistons in the caliper? I'm done with use channel locks to push them back. Using channel locks works well enough for single piston sliding calipers, but it is so frustrating with 4 (or more) piston calipers. Like playing whack a mole --- push one piston in, and another comes out. I am considering these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075KMNSPW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZZ25DHN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[JC220]

Hi @JC220 --- I learn from pictures of your travails! After you heated up that tiny little allen bolt, how did you get the nut attached onto the allen bolt? For what it is worth, I feel like tiny little hardware like that has no place on brake calipers. Any hardware on brake calipers should be massively oversized / beefy!

I have been doing a brake job today as well. I was irritated because the COATZ rotors in the rear from ECS Tuning were packaged poorly (did not have individual boxes) and therefore the coating on the rotor hats was knocked up. GRRRRRRR. So THAT'S why they were so much cheaper @ ECS Tuning than anywhere else? So I wasted a day re-shooting the hats with cold galvanizing paint.

View attachment 110187 View attachment 110188 View attachment 110189 View attachment 110190 View attachment 110191 View attachment 110194 View attachment 110192 View attachment 110193

Finally I am installing the EBC Red Stuff pads that @kiev and @gsxr has been asking about.

Also ---- what tool are you using to push back all of those 8 pistons in the caliper? I'm done with use channel locks to push them back. Using channel locks works well enough for single piston sliding calipers, but it is so frustrating with 4 (or more) piston calipers. Like playing whack a mole --- push one piston in, and another comes out. I am considering these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075KMNSPW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZZ25DHN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hi Jlaa - Nice Porsche! Looks like you did a great job on the brakes too! Yes I don't like to see parts coming with coatings scraped off them. I heard recently that a local MB dealer got in a Wing (fender) from Germany with a loose brake disc in the same crate.... the brake disc won from what I heard

Cold galv paint may not last for a long time but your climate is much better than here. I will be additonally spraying my new disc hats with a High Temp brake paint to keep them good for a couple of years anyway.

The red heated nut was just welded on! Using a MIG welder. It is possible to create alot of heat with the welder and get a good bite into the old fastener which is why it works so well for that task. I had welded it, then immediatly tried to snap a pic with my phone whilst it was still glowing hot. Then hit it with cold water right away to shock it and additional a good smack with a non claw hammer and that frees them. Yes totally crap design of fastener by MB. OK for factory fitment but long term longevity and servicing out the window with a tiny allen slot on a wide flange bolt. There was locktite in there too which is why the heat also helps to soften the bond it had.

 

[JC220]

Finally getting around to starting to restore the Diff from my S320 140





It's more of a clean, de-rust, re-seal, paint and fill with fresh gear oil. Both driveshafts are getting rebuilt next also then the lot will finally go back in some 12 months + later. Sigh - far too many projects I know!

 

[a777fan]

There is a common problem with this big brembo calipers. That is corrosion occurring between shim plates and the caliper body which bulges the plate out. The micro allen head bolts are then impossible to remove by conventional methods.

Ooh! Hey Joe!

One tip I have picked up from my friend Eric O. at south main auto (check out his youtube, seriously awesome), is to make sure you coat the underside of your brake hardware with some high temp brake lube prior to install. It prevents (or deters- depending on the severity of your climate) rust from building up underneath the hardware and causing messes like that. Also prevents pad binding that can occur when the hardware gets bent out of shape by the rust building up underneath it.

Weird that the hardware has hardware to attach it. Thats the first time I have seen that. Usually they just ‘clip’ right on!

 

[JC220]

Ooh! Hey Joe!

One tip I have picked up from my friend Eric O. at south main auto (check out his youtube, seriously awesome), is to make sure you coat the underside of your brake hardware with some high temp brake lube prior to install. It prevents (or deters- depending on the severity of your climate) rust from building up underneath the hardware and causing messes like that. Also prevents pad binding that can occur when the hardware gets bent out of shape by the rust building up underneath it.

Weird that the hardware has hardware to attach it. Thats the first time I have seen that. Usually they just ‘clip’ right on!

Yes I watch Eric's channel too! One of my faves! He is great at diagnosing a car - I enjoy watching any car diagnostics he does.

Yes that's a good tip and I will be doing that!

And instead of thread lock on that bolt I'll put copper anti seize smoo and keep them free for regular servicing and cleaning hopefully.

I got a bag of perfect matching stainless steel bolts from Ebay. And a second option of a slightly bigger Torx drive version of the same pan bolts in stainless. I'll use the torx version on these outside plate bolts. If I ever did want to take the inner most plate bolts out they do have to be low profile hex drive type to clear the pads.

 

[JC220]

I have just learned today that I should be able to book my S430 in for its first MOT in my ownership and in about a decade. MOT test centres still closed but starting in Sept they are taking cars with 1 year or more expired MOTs.


I have a busy time ahead getting it MOT ready starting this weekend! Cant wait to drive it at long last. Just some minor matters to attend to first.



MIG welder and a donor panel at the ready

 

[TerryA]

I have just learned today that I should be able to book my S430 in for its first MOT in my ownership and in about a decade. MOT test centres still closed but starting in Sept they are taking cars with 1 year or more expired MOTs.


I have a busy time ahead getting it MOT ready starting this weekend! Cant wait to drive it at long last. Just some minor matters to attend to first.

View attachment 110374View attachment 110375

MIG welder and a donor panel at the ready

View attachment 110401

Joe,

It’s hard to believe that all of these UK cars have so much rust damage AND you are WILLING to repair/restore them. It’s work that we in the US try to avoid.

Simply Amazing!

BTW, Something that I should know by this time but don’t and it’s starting to bug me. I know that MOT is the inspection process you have to go thru to have your cars pronounced roadworthy.

Probably a dumb question and I should know the answer but I don’t.

What the hell does MOT actually stand for?

 

[outrbnks]

I just did a Google search, MOT in the UK, which yields this link

MOT test - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

I'm sure Joe can give a more condensed version..

If the MOT testings sites are like some here in New York, I wonder if there are certain test locations that have a degree of discretion, to put it nicely?

In NY, (because of COVID), they have dropped the annual inspection requirement allowing over 1 year without any tickets or fines and registration renewals without the normal mandatory annual inspections.
I have 2 due this month, and a good place to go, I'll have Ms Bornite inspected this month on time, and put off the SL until next month, so next year I will not have 2 due in Aug again. Anyway Joe, good luck with your MOTS, and envy the lift, nice

 

[TerryA]

I just did a Google search, MOT in the UK, which yields this link

MOT test - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

I'm sure Joe can give a more condensed version..

If the MOT testings sites are like some here in New York, I wonder if there are certain test locations that have a degree of discretion, to put it nicely?

In NY they have dropped the annual inspection requirement allowing over 1 year without any tickets or fines.
I have 2 due this month, and a good place to go, I;ll do Ms Bornite on time, and put off the SL until next month, so next year it will not be 2 due in Aug again. Anyway Joe, good luck with your MOTS, and envy the lift, nice

Thanks for the explanation, I guess I should use the wikipedia more instead of mucking up Joes Owner Thread. Here is CA the only official test is the 2 year Smog Test. Nothing else is required. Although any police officer could pull you over and issue you a ticket for having an un-safe vehicle. Stuff like bald tires, smoking badly or parts falling off of the car ect;

More than once, Iv'e seen people driving front wheel drive cars on steel rims with sparks flying out the rear. Or their rear bumpers/fascias hanging on by a thread. If you stay behind the car you will eventually be running over the bumper. Stuff like that the cops will pull you over.

lol

 

[JC220]

Joe,

It’s hard to believe that all of these UK cars have so much rust damage AND you are WILLING to repair/restore them. It’s work that we in the US try to avoid.

Simply Amazing!

BTW, Something that I should know by this time but don’t and it’s starting to bug me. I know that MOT is the inspection process you have to go thru to have your cars pronounced roadworthy.

Probably a dumb question and I should know the answer but I don’t.

What the hell does MOT actually stand for?

Hi Terry, yes all valid comments! Ref the rust they are not usually as bad as this but in summary:

This car appears to have had a prior patch on this cill if you look closely. That was likely poorly executed and resulted in further, faster rust damage as is evident now.

It was off the road for nearly a decade, foregoing regular MOT inspections so I anticipated some welding being needed.

I bough this well optioned LWB S430 with nearly full service history, decent wheel upgrades etc and a full set of Mahle Filters in the boot for £450 so that left plenty of meat on the bone for a couple weekends of my time expended repairing the rust issues. Which at the end of the day are cheap on materials cost just a PITA!

I just did a Google search, MOT in the UK, which yields this link

MOT test - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

I'm sure Joe can give a more condensed version..

If the MOT testings sites are like some here in New York, I wonder if there are certain test locations that have a degree of discretion, to put it nicely?

In NY, (because of COVID), they have dropped the annual inspection requirement allowing over 1 year without any tickets or fines and registration renewals without the normal mandatory annual inspections.
I have 2 due this month, and a good place to go, I'll have Ms Bornite inspected this month on time, and put off the SL until next month, so next year I will not have 2 due in Aug again. Anyway Joe, good luck with your MOTS, and envy the lift, nice

Good link Oscar!

However there is a BIG difference in the MOT system between Northern Ireland and England.

In England MOT Testing is carried out by approved / private garages. They as a part of a service etc may offer to MOT the car and take care of a hit list they advise on - if any. In short – because that system is based on private garages an English MOT isn’t really worth the paper it’s written on. I have seen cars come over that I have bought myself with obvious failure points here that has recently “passed” English MOT without even an advisory. People may have a relationship with a local garage and expect that their car get serviced and MOT'd without costly issues flagging up.

Here in Northern Ireland the MOT system is NOT by private garages at all. Only by government run inspection centres. And these are inherently tough inspections to get through. But the flip side is if the car has passed in NI MOT well then it’s going to be pretty safe! Hence why anyone who buys an English car here is nervous to get through the NI Mot.

So in the event an NI MOT inspector or station takes on a specific opinion they can and will enforce it to the local people and your options are basically comply or ask for the manager and see if the complaint can be resolved.

I could tell y’all lots of tasty stories of such instances and where I have had rows with them. Including an instance with my 500E where they wanted to scrape the new waxoyl off the underside or rather - send me home to do it for them and take it back + pay another fee. I told them in no uncertain terms to F%ck off and it escalated quickly. I did win that battle though and left with a test certificate - waxoyl intact.

When Covid struck MOT testing was suspended back in April and only now can people book tests. They chomped and changed the rules too as time went on. As an example:

English Reg S500 never MOTd In NI before and 10 years since last MOT got exemption months ago and this was just extended until January next year IIRC.

Yet my S320 which the MOT expired less that 12 months ago was give a temporary MOT exemption yesterday to end of the pne year only which is september 9th. That wont be extended and it will have to go in for a re-test

I was unlucky in that last year the lovely surprise of a seized S500 couoe occupied most of my time and hence some of the fleet's MOTs lapsed and set me behind some for this year.

BUT thankfully we can now phone and book MOT appointments for any car with 12 months or more expired MOT and no exemption allowed. which means I can start getting project cars like the S430 hammered through and ready for MOT now

I have hardly used any of my allocated classic insurance mileage this year and petrol is cheap at the pumps too. I will be driving the S430 & S320 almost as a daily this winter all being well to make up for that.

Thanks for the explanation, I guess I should use the wikipedia more instead of mucking up Joes Owner Thread. Here is CA the only official test is the 2 year Smog Test. Nothing else is required. Although any police officer could pull you over and issue you a ticket for having an un-safe vehicle. Stuff like bald tires, smoking badly or parts falling off of the car ect;

More than once, Iv'e seen people driving front wheel drive cars on steel rims with sparks flying out the rear. Or their rear bumpers/fascias hanging on by a thread. If you stay behind the car you will eventually be running over the bumper. Stuff like that the cops will pull you over.

lol

Yes as an aside there is no doubt that giving exemptions from annual testing is a bad thing in terms of trusting people to maintain their cars fully! I suspect that when MOT comes back fully online there will be horror stories of what state some cars come to the test centres in!

 

[JC220]

PS after work yesterday my friend decided to go ahead and help me get my new to me car lift down and to my house on his lorry.

T'was a long evening/night!! The thing must weigh 1.5 - 2 Tonne but was broke In half of course. Took lots of photos and measurements before it was taken down and have wrapped everything up really well. Will dolly it around to a much less conspicuous location at my house and go ahead to start drawing up a shed to fit the lift and a LWB S Calss perched on top.

It will be approx 6 months before I can start thinking of pouring concrete and putting the lift into use but at least I have the exacting dimensions of what I am working towards now and got a great deal on it to boot



Girlfriend: "what is that massive thing on the driveway?"
Me: "King Kong's clothesline"

 

[JC220]

Finally got a little time today to finish off the S600s front brake job. The process of getting plate loosened, cleaning behind it worked a treat. Got in there cleaned all really well and painted it with ceramic brake grease. Then found nice fitting m5 10mm stainless screws. I did also get the exact hardware as OE but preferred to use the type I found with slightly bigger head and much better sized Torx slot. So I used the torx kind and a little copper grease on the threads.

Then use a small hammer to tap the plates flat again and the pads and discs fitted perfectly. This is a major difference now compared to the old front discs which were both damaged on the inside due to this caliper plate corrosion problem.






I'll get paint matched for the calipers and touch them in soon. For now just wanted to get the S600 back on the road. I did take the opportunity to spray the brake dirt guards etc behind the discs.

 

[Stegel]

Joe,

re NI MOTs, and corrosion, in England we view cars that have spent a lot of time in Scotland as more prone to rot due to the prolonged winters, and greater use of road salt. I have family in Tayside and am aware of cars showing rust there far sooner than in the English Midlands. I’ve only ever seen sunshine when I’ve been to NI, but I’ve been lucky I know - are the winters long and use of road salt heavy, similar to Scotland?

 

[JC220]

Joe,

re NI MOTs, and corrosion, in England we view cars that have spent a lot of time in Scotland as more prone to rot due to the prolonged winters, and greater use of road salt. I have family in Tayside and am aware of cars showing rust there far sooner than in the English Midlands. I’ve only ever seen sunshine when I’ve been to NI, but I’ve been lucky I know - are the winters long and use of road salt heavy, similar to Scotland?

Yes that's certainly true! Scottish cars do tend to have the worst Rust in the UK, the only car I have from Scotland is my 320CE Sportline Coupe and she is crusty! Undergoing full restoration of the underbody.

In Northern Ireland we use Salt on the roads in winter - lots of the stuff. Hence why all of my classics tend to stay off the road all winter when salt is around. Some southern counties in Ireland do not use Salt and that can be seen in the condition of the cars! Our Winters are not as harsh as Scotland no, more in line with England's weather. It was sunny when you were in NI? That's rarer than spotting a E60 AMG!

 

[Stegel]

Yes that's certainly true! Scottish cars do tend to have the worst Rust in the UK, the only car I have from Scotland is my 320CE Sportline Coupe and she is crusty! Undergoing full restoration of the underbody.

In Northern Ireland we use Salt on the roads in winter - lots of the stuff. Hence why all of my classics tend to stay off the road all winter when salt is around. Some southern counties in Ireland do not use Salt and that can be seen in the condition of the cars! Our Winters are not as harsh as Scotland no, more in line with England's weather. It was sunny when you were in NI? That's rarer than spotting a E60 AMG!

I have been to Belfast, Newry and Derry / LondonDerry 8 or 10 times for work and never seen a raindrop (although, purely by chance, that’s always been between April and September). I’ve had a similar success rate south of the border with work visits, but a week‘s holiday in Kerry put paid to that one August!

 

[JC220]

Apologies for no updates here in quite a while. Truth to be told I was so so busy on my w220s I didn't have any spare time. Caught up on those now and normal service on the fleet is about to resume again.

The two m119 sisters are just pulled into the garage beside each other where they will hibernate from winter. Both cars will be subject to thorough detailing now in the coming weeks. The S500 engine is still mint from restoration but that C140 requires some fettling in other areas. Duo valve needs changing, AC repaired and blower motor changed - stuff like that.

My 500E is still in top condition it barely covers 100 miles a year but I'd like to detail the engine again as it's been well over a year since it got any proper maintenance. A day or so would leave it minty fresh again and I will do more zinc plating on it too. The polished power steering cap has rusted so I'll use another spare and have it plated next time so it lasts.

But other than that two very happy m119s

 

[JC220]

Happy Christmas to all members hope you all have a great one!

Santa brought the first batch of mostly OEM parts for my S430 - engine and trans removal next for next stage of rolling resto

 

[TerryA]

Happy Christmas to all members hope you all have a great one!

Santa brought the first batch of mostly OEM parts for my S430 - engine and trans removal next for next stage of rolling resto

View attachment 120941

It looks like Santa has been good to you Joe.

Merry Christmas!

 

[JC220]

It looks like Santa has been good to you Joe.

Merry Christmas!

Thank you Terry!

Yes Santa has went up in my estimation I am surprised he knew to only go for Boge engine mounts, SGF flex discs and IWIS timing chain etc. That bloke knows his stuff

 

[gerryvz]

I see some Febi, but no URO parts in that gaggle — ?

 

[JC220]

I see some Febi, but no URO parts in that gaggle — ?

The Uro is still on it's way Gerry!

Yes Febi but it's all reboxed OEM inside including the breather hoses which have the MB number ground off. All made in germany Febi anything else would have been returned to sender

 

[JC220]

This is a video of my 1999 147k miles S430 running:

This knock is only there at hot idle and seems suspicious as timing chain tensioner related to me hence why I am removing the engine for inspection in the coming days and hopefully the chain shows stretch and the full timing kit will cure that.

 

[JC220]

My S430 has the m113 V8. So in the coming days the engine and transmission will be pulled complete. To address 21 years worth of deferred maintenance such as engine mounts etc and the rear main crank seal + timing chain + guides renewal.

It would take about as long to drop the upper sump pan in situ as it does to pull the whole powertrain and have the correct access.

Tomorrow I will list the full schedule of jobs to do now but more no doubt will appear. I have alot of work to do on my week off work and the S430 is already thoroughly washed below and all around and on ramps for the work to begin.

I will inspect the whole engine and also do a leak down test

 

[JC220]

Started a few little bits today towards taking drivetrain out. Found corroded pins on one engine harness to engine ECU plug- one of the pins crumbled and is gone!! Not good. Ordered an exact matching ECU and can have it virginised which I presume is required here.

 

[JC220]

Got stuck into the underbody disassembly on my S430 today.

The full exhaust system had to come off of course - the sections I had worked at before were fine and came apart super easy. The front down pipes not so much! The nuts in the manifolds spun so I had to reach in with mini vice grips and that did the trick. I will scope the cats to ensure nothing blocked or breaking up inside. New pair of 02 sensors going in and painting the front sections.

Full propshaft removed and the centre bearing is collapsed - which will be renewed along with both guibos. The centering bushings are good zero play since I got to it before anything let loose or had excessive runout etc.

Got all unhooked from the transmission and proped a block of wood between the engine and subframe so it would balance at a nice angle to pull out.

Then since she threw a ABS sensor code for rear right wheel I figured the reluctor ring would be the cause and it was. Replacing both as a pair and be done with it. My early w220 had bolted inner driveshafts (before the miserable types at MB deleted those bolts!!) Thus I thought that would be easy. Nope - had to remove the whole diff as there was zero room to free the inner ends of the drive shafts. Diff will be re-sealed too.

Next up is full removal of the front slam panel - rad pack etc. This will enable more restoration of inner body brackets etc and may chuck a new condenser in there since the AC system is stone empty and losing vacuum after 25 mins.



Will be interesting when the motor is out to start scoping and testing it to see what condition it is in. And if the timing system has stretch too.