OWNER JC220

[JC220]

Engine now out all went well - w220s are quite "modular" in build meaning that wire harnesses etc have big easy plugs on them and the whole slam panel unbolts too.

 

[JC220]

I would like to start on the engine tomorrow in order to assess:

Scope each cylinder
Leak down test each cylinder
Check timing chain system for stretch
Inspect all rollers and lifters
Check lower oil pan and oil pickup for debris

Hopefully nothing nasty shows up!

I did want to steam clean the whole engine before disassembly but its below freezing outside and water hoses frozen so can't do that right now.

 

[JC220]

OK so I had got stuck into further engine health checking on my S430. First up was to borescope each cylinder looking at the condition if the alusil cylinder bores:

(Small amount of Liquid in cylinder 2 is due to valves being open during cleaning it is OK)



There are zero score marks, discoloration or anything in the cylinders so this is great news. The bores are in top / fantastic condition!

 

[JC220]

Next up was to check the timing chain for stretch. The left bank tool was very close to slipping in. The right bank tool was quite a bit off - indicating stretch. More specifically 8 degrees of stretch! That's quite a bit - glad I am replacing the chain, guides and tensioner!

 

[JC220]

All inlet valve areas are nice and clean and all sprak plugs looked clean with no oil burning etc

 

[JC220]

Finally I carried out a leak down test. Now this is supposed to be done when the engine is at operating temperature by right. I have done them cold before and it is more so to assess the balance of the cylinders and if any valves etc are leaking excessively. However you must be mindful that debris can hold a valve open falsely and to that end I use a rubber mallet to gently but sharply tap each valve during test and you can sometimes see a big drop in the reading to give you the actual reading.



Leakdown results Engine cold - 5c ambient.
Cyl 1: 12% O
Cyl 5: 14% O
Cyl 4: 14.5% O+E
Cyl 2: 12% O
Cyl 6: 12.5% O
Cyl 3: 10% O
Cyl 7: 14% O
Cyl 8: 14% O

O= piston ring / oil gallery E= exhaust valve

I am pleased with these results on a cold engine at such low ambient. The cylinders are well balanced and below a 20% estimate where you start to get concerned. Again this was done cold so the readings would most likely drop some at proper operating temperature when the pistons expand etc and more oil is in the ring packs.

So far what I am seeing on my S430s engine is very good indeed.

I do want to pull the upper and lower sump pans and carefully inspect the pistons and crank.

 

[JC220]

The chain was stretched:





I then pulled the timing cover to reveal the chain and guides. The crank was first locked at 40 degrees after TDC and the cam locks installed. Then chain split and removed.

You know how the m119 timing rail pins remove? They knock out? Well the MB engineers decided to make the m113 such that the timing rails CANNOT be removed or replaced with the cylinder heads on!!!

The timing rails are captive in the cylinder heads and whilst the timing pins are screwed into the block, they do not unscrew and release the timing rails due to insuffiencent clearance!!



I have devised a solution

 

[JC220]

So as I say - when you read WIS MB calls for cylinder head removal. The timing guide rail pins are bolted into the block. Whilst you can get a wrench behind the rails when you try to unscrew the pins they bind up as there is no space to remove the rails in situ - the rails catch the heads. This SUCKS!!



But - I discovered a JC220 solution. Something you won't see anywhere but here

I discovered the long "bananna" rail comes out and I could check the pin per the above post photos.

It is an M8 thread and pin.

I can make my own replacement pins that will work. I will need to cut and break the old rails out. Then make my own guide pins from cut down M8 hardened bolts and M8 half nuts.

This was a test run for proof of concept I had filed down an M8 nut and part threaded M8 bolt: (original pins on right with fixed nut)







And replicated the original pin except crucially I can pass the pin through the guide rail, through the half nut and into the block. With threadlock for good measure.

Screw the pin in, then tighten the lock nut and have just as secure a pin as the original and allowing R&R of the timing rails with the cylinder heads ON

So I am replacing all 4x timing rails now using my method.

Now I know it works, I will go get some hardened M8 bolts and M8 half nuts tomorrow and make 6x custom timing rail pins as required to affix the 3 other rails.

 

[Kyiv]

This is a video of my 1999 147k miles S430 running:

This knock is only there at hot idle and seems suspicious as timing chain tensioner related to me hence why I am removing the engine for inspection in the coming days and hopefully the chain shows stretch and the full timing kit will cure that.

Joe, so what exactly caused the knocking sound and why only at hot idle? Thanks

 

[JC220]

Joe, so what exactly caused the knocking sound and why only at hot idle? Thanks

Fair question!

I am not 100% certain but I will explain my thoughts:

• Right from day one when I went to buy this S430 it had an intermittent tapping noise from the left bank of the engine. This sounded exactly like a valve lifter. My brother thought so too on the day, Since the car was not road worthy for nearly a decade I figured a drive would clear that up.
• I came to realise the PO has used 0w30 engine oil at a very recent change. So I changed the oil for 5w40 and that *appeared* to help
• Fast forward over a year later, and body restoration and the S430 is back on the road at last. I covered about 400 miles in it and at times the engine was whisper silent but then the tapping noise would resume from the lifter.
• I had added a bottle of valve lifter treatment to the oil which normally helps a lifter. (No difference)

HOWEVER- It took until very recently for me to discover that the "Lifter noise" was actually the fecking MOT valve!! An emissions device located in the engine bay near left bank. It is tapping intermittently and sounds EXACTLY like a lifter.



This is good news.

My theory is this,

When I added the bottle of treatment to the oil this thinned the oil down. It was already 5w40 so pretty thin as it was - albeit correct for M113 in unmolested form.

When I drained the warm engine oil this time it appeared very thin - this was the treatment effect. I had ran a flush through the engine briefly for 10 minute idle too before dropping the oil and I think that video was taken during that time! (Magnified the issue)

I believe the engine noise was related to the oil falsely thinning. And at hot idle is when engine oil is the hottest and oil pressure lowest. I think perhaps the 147k mile chain tensioner was making the noise with the thinned oil.

As a precaution I am renewing the whole timing system and also pulling the upper sump pan to inspect the bottom end for discoloration or play. Since there was zero metal in oil etc I expect to find nothing there.

Re-assemble and get fresh un-diluted 5W40 in there and see how she is. By then the bottom end & timing is eliminated so the only thing left would be valve train. But that also looks in top order to me.

So I hope it doesn't actually have a knock - that was a side effect of additive. I will find out when it is running again!

 

[JC220]

Been crazy busy with Architecture full & part time so haven't had much time to work on the S430 but will get back to it this weekend. Need to start on prepping both W140s for MOT again it's that time of year need those two girls back on road again does no good sitting around outside.

Speaking of which, I have said before that I have limited space to work and house my cars. That is, a single garage, a double garage and a 2 car carport. Leaving half a dozen outside all year.

I have plans now to add another new double garage but this time tall enough to take 2x Car Lifts. (I have one car lift already but sitting on pallets as no ceiling tall enough to install! It was so cheap I couldn't afford not to buy it at the time, £2k lift lightly used for £500) Anyways I have put a lot of thought into how the second garage will utilise limited land around my house in a town. This will involve removal of the existing sunroom and utility room which have limited architectural value anyway. The replacement garage will be built from fully insulated cavity walls like my original one but joined onto it and the house. The Oil Boiler will move into the new garage to provide some heat in winter etc.

I am starting to draw that all up soon and will share the plans on here too. Can't wait until I could potentially house 4x more of my cars inside in the dry warmth. It will be 2022 before I can apply for planning permission (Due to new gates etc that I need to wait 5 years) but when I apply next spring I will be ready to get the work done - mostly myself. But I will bring in contractors for the foundation / floors and wall construction as it would take me far too long doing all that too.

 

[GRAEME JOHNSON]

Who exactly do you mean by the old boiler ?
Graeme Johnson

 

[JC220]

Who exactly do you mean by the old boiler ?
Graeme Johnson

Sorry I mean that my house has oil fired central heating. Quite a high output boiler. Currently located in a boiler room to rear hallway. I will instead convert that space into a utility room and move the boiler into the new garage.

This has the added advantage that the lost heat from the boiler and metal flue will provide background warmth in the garage all year. Augmented with a space heater for working in freezing days

 

[ace10]

In the US, I think most juridictions make it onerous task to attach a new garage to an existing residence. Which is why most go the route of a detached structure.

We built a large detached in 2017. It went about as smoothly as any construction project with which I've been a part. So much fun to design it and have others do the heavy work. Three plus years later, I'm still doing interior finishes. Looking to add a fourth lift this year.

Hope you enjoy your process as much as I have mine!

 

[vatc5637]

In the US, I think most juridictions make it onerous task to attach a new garage to an existing residence. Which is why most go the route of a detached structure.

We built a large detached in 2017. It went about as smoothly as any construction project with which I've been a part. So much fun to design it and have others do the heavy work. Three plus years later, I'm still doing interior finishes. Looking to add a fourth lift this year.

Hope you enjoy your process as much as I have mine!

Next DC/MD/VA GTG at Ace10's garage! (jk! - I am jealous though)

 

[gerryvz]

I say we host a GTG at my house once COVID is cleared enough to allow gatherings. Annapolis is more or less central for NoVa, Eastern Shore MD, Baltimore/Philly, DC, and Central Virginia. Don't have to deal with DC traffic/hell.

 

[JC220]

In the US, I think most juridictions make it onerous task to attach a new garage to an existing residence. Which is why most go the route of a detached structure.

We built a large detached in 2017. It went about as smoothly as any construction project with which I've been a part. So much fun to design it and have others do the heavy work. Three plus years later, I'm still doing interior finishes. Looking to add a fourth lift this year.

Hope you enjoy your process as much as I have mine!

A fourth Lift? neeeddd pics

 

[gerryvz]

A fourth Lift? neeeddd pics

 

[ace10]

I'm looking forward to your build. Hope you document it as well as that rust work you've been doing.

I find it very interesting to watch construction projects from other countries.

 

[gsxr]

 

[JC220]

I'm looking forward to your build. Hope you document it as well as that rust work you've been doing.

I find it very interesting to watch construction projects from other countries.

Thank you, yes I will share progress on here of the drawings this year then the building work next year all being well. We have very tight building and planning regulations here so there is quite a bit of drawing to get done. I will finish up my Existing Ground Floor plans this weekend. I already have a digital site survey on file for my boundaries etc so I will try to get an initial proposed plan drafted up to check areas and the possibilty of 2no lifts. The width will be tight enough so I may need to overlap / stagger the lift posts beside each other in the centre but that should be fine. Lots of proper steel etc in the floor to bolt them down. I will be doing the detailed drawings myself and will aim for a build which has simple construction and mitigates structural steel as much as is possible. Maybe a composite long span roofing system to enable only a ridge beam to be required. Lots of thoughts just need to get them in CAD and see how it will all work.

I measured the lift I bought very accurately before I took it down. It is this model: 2 Post 3.5T Vehicle Lift - Fully Automatic with Electric Locks - Eco (1PH/3PH) (TLT235SBA) so I can plan exactly for a long wheel base w220 to fit inside and at full height on the lift. The roof will more or less hug the car's due to the need to keep the heights down near my neighbour's dwelling. Maybe a fibreglass pit too in the existing garage when I have a mini digger in. Lots of posibilites and plenty of time to plan it out

 

[JC220]

S600 Paint saga

Not sure where to begin at this one - and conscious I don't want to bore anyone to death either. I guess to summarise:

My S600 came to me with rusty front wings and rear arches. Of course this is unacceptable for a flagship and I repaired it properly last Oct. Replacing the wings with perfect used genuine panels and welding in repair sections on the rear arches followed by thorough epoxy and waxoyl application etc.

As both my w220s were required for a family wedding in Nov, my usual painter was busy working no my S430 which required much more extensive bodywork and it turned out perfect. Not a mark on it - perfection.

There was another painter in my town who has a good facebook page and lots of positive feedback. Get's a great name in town so it was the logical choice for my S600, or so I thought!!

Best summarise this or it will be death by word count:

1st Go:

• He said drop it in on the Wednesday and I would have it back that weekend. Left car in on the Tuesday night and weekend came and went not a word.
• Phoned him the following Wednesday and he indicated the car was still sitting outside - which by the way is a Audi breakers yard where his shed is. So sitting among scrap cars.
• Asked him to protect the newly refurbished alloy wheels.
• He agreed to take it in and get it done when I reminded him it was for a wedding the following week!
• Picked up the car 2 weeks after leaving it in, it was outside in the pouring rain so I couldn't look at it close.
• Paid him cash in full and drove it home.
• It poured with rain for a few days and finally I got it into my garage to polish a few days before the wedding.
• Swirls all over it, required extensive buffing to bring up.
• However the new paint looked WORSE than the old paint! And to boot they had scratched the wheel lug bolt holes in several locations!
• White blotches in the paint, filler visible on the little bits he had to bodywork and he had also sanded through the lacquer in a few areas.
• Took it to wedding anyway slightly embarrassed by the new paint but no-one noticed.

2nd Re-paint:

• Sent him photos and he agreed to take it back. I said to just wait and tell me when he was available and I would take it to him to prevent it sitting out in the breaker's yard.
• A couple weeks later he said to bring it in and I did. He said it would be ready in a couple days and he would re-paint the rear quarter panels which had all the defects.
• 3 odd weeks later it came to Christmas holidays and eventually he admitted it would not be ready, I was not pushing him either but was concerned the S600 would run it's battery down. He already closed for holidays when he told me this so I could not put it on CTEK to keep the battery right. Told him it was OK and after holidays if it doesn't start to NOT JUMP START IT under any circumstances. Just phone me and I will go up and swap in another spare battery.
• 5 weeks after he took it in, I got a call to say it was ready.
• Again she was sitting outside in pouring rain so I could not look at it.
• Drove it home and next morning noticed white dots in the new lacquer on the right rear quarter. WTF!
• Also noted the battery cover was off and a big dusty spot in trunk where his jump start pack had been. The twat had jump started it despite my instructions not to.
• Weeks later the right rear quarter paint "steams up" in humid or rainy days. Never seen anything like it. It is inside the paint.

This is how the 2nd repaint looks like on wet days:



This is most likely due to him doing a rush job and not giving my 600 enough time in the heat to cure the new paint. Or a defect with his lacquer. I can remove it temporally with a heat gun but it returns a few days later.

At this stage I want my other painter to re-lacquer the right rear quarter. but my usual painter needs to know what lacquer he used in order to prevent reactions. The S600 painter wants it back again to stand over his work..... and it will take "2 days"

What a total f'ing mess. Trying to do the right thing and let down badly on many occasions by a so called professional painter! I do not care about the good money I paid him at this stage but at the same time he should be capable of painting a quarter panel correctly. Is that too much to ask?

Scratched wheels and jump starting it add to my frustration.

 

[JC220]

Him jump starting it doesn't appear to have damaged anything except the dash clock is not on anymore. Suspect a sync issue in the command system which I will address soon.

However my S600 is an amazing car. Really happy with it. Owned her about 1.5 years now and never misses a beat. 580hp and 910nm it is a total tyre shredding monster yet so smooth I can balance coins on the engine.

Taken on sat when I took it for a drive on dry roads:

 

[Kyiv]

@JC220, how many times have you imagined kicking his teeth in with a leg kick and beating him up to a semi-death with a metal armature, used to reinforce concrete? I have a few times, while reading your post

 

[JC220]

@JC220, how many times have you imagined kicking his teeth in with a leg kick and beating him up to a semi-death with a metal armature, used to reinforce concrete? I have a few times, while reading your post

Yes it is hugely irritating the way he has messed up this job several times. He was also warned per say by a friend of mine before he got my S600 that it needed to be done right or I would notice.... and still mediocre quality twice.

Not entirely convinced a 3rd time will make much difference. Since he insists on making it right and I'm already out of pocket for it may as well see what happens. If he makes mistakes again then it will have to go to my regular painter after that.

I also forgot to mention that I am pretty sure my S600 also picked up a couple of dings on the doors whilst at this plebs premises. But I am not the complaining type perhaps to my detriment. Just want the job done right and car home to enjoy.

I'll drop it in Wednesday evening and advise that I am collecting it Friday eve one way or another. Do not want her sitting for a 3rd spell in a breakers yard! It also draws unwanted attention to the car. Example if I take it to a filling station or garage people usually spot the V12 badge and ask "is it really a V12?" and wet themselves. So in a VW Audi yard I imagine a good number of people are looking around it when unattended which I do not want.

 

[a777fan]

@JC220, how many times have you imagined kicking his teeth in with a leg kick and beating him up to a semi-death with a metal armature, used to reinforce concrete? I have a few times, while reading your post

Glad we’re friends @kiev

 

[744Brillantsilber]

Man, this really sucks!!

How is the law in Ireland? In Germany you can ask him to give you the money back if he doesn´t get it right the 3rd time.
I know, you still had all the touble. But no way I would want him to have my money for that kind of work.

 

[Bogeyman]

You mentioned all of the positive reviews he had.
Have you placed any negative comments to perhaps warn another unsuspecting person of his performance?

 

[JC220]

Man, this really sucks!!

How is the law in Ireland? In Germany you can ask him to give you the money back if he doesn´t get it right the 3rd time.
I know, you still had all the touble. But no way I would want him to have my money for that kind of work.

The bumpers and front wings turned out well. For some reason it is the rear quarters he keeps messing up.

I paid him cash and got a receipt. I am not the type to fight over a refund - he will not get any more work from me which sucks for him and he knows it. (He was told I have several cars and would bring him regular work IF he did a good job)

You mentioned all of the positive reviews he had.
Have you placed any negative comments to perhaps warn another unsuspecting person of his performance?

Yes fair enough suggestion. However I would rather tell him what I think to his face VS the interwebs.

Also, word of mouth is probably more damaging locally here! There is an automotive community of sorts. I have several mechanic friends around the town who we meet up and chat with about cars for hours on end and take interest in each others projects. We also share who is good and who is bad in the trade. Some of them asked how this painter did and I told them the truth.

That would hurt more trust me. And again he knows that too.

I am well respected locally for being straight forward and paying people for their work etc. I won't tarnish my reputation for anyone I will let him keep the money and if the 3rd go turns out wrong then anyone who asks will be told the truth and I'll also tell him another painter had to complete the work to a satisfactory standard.

 

[JC220]

Painter has my S600 again - should have it back early next week and hopefully it will be good this time so I can drive the darn thing.

My S430 resto has had a few weeks of ordering and waiting on parts, dropping stuff with machine shop etc so next week all being well I will be able to start assembling the engine again.

The alternator in my S430 is brand new. The starter motor appeared original and whilst it was in nice condition there was a little wear on the brushes after 147k miles. Whilst I normally have a local rebuilder do the work it is quite simple actually and where he would never paint the casings I will be shot blasting and painting It up so it will be good as new next week.

The rebuilder sells the parts for wholesale prices pretty much. Solenoid was unknown condition inside the cap since you cant inspect it so got a new one. Starter parts are cheap- £9 for new brush set and £15 for new solenoid. At that rate not even worth thinking about - just fit.

 

[JC220]

S600 rear quarter re sprayed this eve so will get her back tomorrow...



Still waiting on S430 parts.....

Need to get started resurrecting the many cars sitting around with no MOT due to too many projects and Covid etc.

S280 was up first. The left front upper control arm had play in one bushing. So new arm it was. These are held on with 4no allen bolts so I was anticipating a fight but forgot my S280 is a Singapore import which has 46k miles and has pretty much never seen road salt:


Control arm was out in 5 minutes - easy pezy the old girl is mint condition.



No @gerryvz Meyle here





It's not all plain sailing though. She has generated an ABS and ASR fault whilst sitting around. Cleaned all fuses etc etc and still trying to track that one down.



After that it will be ready for MOT then onto the S320 w140 which has sat for 2 years and now is in deep project car territory which is where I don't want it to be so better get cracking on it whilst S430 goes back together.

 

[JC220]

I got my S600 back from repaint part 3 this evening. Got the free overspray etc but the right rear fender now looks decent at a glance. Finger's crossed the new paint doesnt "steam up" like the previous coat did


All being well this saturday I will clay and buff the 600 to put back to normal then I will seriously consider my first Ceramic coating attempt on it in a couple weeks to preserve the new and existing paint as best I can for the next year or two until I hopefully get the new garage up and it will be stored inside and in a dry heated space thereafter. At which point it will get a full showroom quality re-paint to boot. (Many of the fleet will be getting full repaints after that too) For now it's about preserving the newly rust free bodywork as best I can.

In a couple months I will give the 600 another major service. Trans service inc lockup solenoid & every fluid + AC drier etc. The front ABC valve block will be repalced with a new style MB replacement due to a slow leak down after several days on one corner. Just to keep it in tip top condition. It came with a 2 inch thick folder of receipts and service history - it has been very well maintained it's whole life rergardless of cost. And that is what it takes on an S600 if you want an enjoyable ownership experience!

 

[JC220]

In a non Mercedes front another project around the house is to replace a rotton big roof light in the upstairs bathroom. Got a new all PVC one - trouble is it weighs about 130kg from what it feels like so going to be tricky to get up there!! Intend to remove the centre section which is what you do anyway, fit the frame then from inside set up racking to step on and click the glass part back in. Never installed a roof light before despite drawing them for nearly 20 years as an Architect What could go wrong!?

 

[IslandMon]

Follow your flashing detail, and you should be all set. Skylights are notorious for leaking, especially when the flashing is done improperly!

 

[sheward]

Someone responded to my inquiry about his skylight installation with "there is no reason to make a hole in a perfectly good roof" I installed my own roof vent for a wood stove many years ago and have had 0 problems. As said, it's just important to get the flashing right.

drew

 

[JC220]

Follow your flashing detail, and you should be all set. Skylights are notorious for leaking, especially when the flashing is done improperly!

Someone responded to my inquiry about his skylight installation with "there is no reason to make a hole in a perfectly good roof" I installed my own roof vent for a wood stove many years ago and have had 0 problems. As said, it's just important to get the flashing right.

drew

Thanks for the comments!

I am replacing an existing wood roof light about 30 years old and splitting at hinge. This one #should# be the same size. I will have new timber available on the day incase I have to make minor adjustments to the opening but I don't expect to need that.

Yes I have bought the flashing kit suitable for my existing concrete roof tiles and a felt collar as additional protection. I will follow the instructions to a T and it should work out fine. Indeed I'd rather do it myself and know no step was skipped!!

The new one is all PVC and considerably thicker double glazed unit. Like 3x times thicker so the bathroom should be warmer too. And this one can't rot out in future either.

 

[JC220]

S280 Update;

After testing all fuses, wiring and relays I was only left with the ASR module being at fault. I got a good used replacement, installed & cleared old codes and it's fixed! That code above in post #1,531 is cured with the replacement matching PN module.

I did also get a replacement windscreen wiper motor assembly locally. The one on the car was always slow and sticky in operation and the MOT man will not approve. So best replace it.

MOT is booked for 1st March - not as soon as I wanted it but that's as good as it gets availability wise so I'll just work with it. It will get a proper clean this weekend too and after MOT some bodywork will be addressed on it also. Looking forward to driving the old girl again at 46k odd miles on it, it feels like new inside etc.

On the S430 front I also finished my DIY starter motor rebuild and I'm very pleased with it!

 

[JC220]

Apologies for jumping for car to car here but bear with me;

w140 S320

Booked a couple days of work in Mid March to take another run at the S320 and finish what I started about a year ago and some other stuff:

• Finish the installation of all 4x new springs and shocks
• Renew front ARB links
• Finish Diff reseal, driveshaft rebuilds and re-install on car with new hardware and flex disc
• Change rear spring pads to 4 bumps due to weight of LPG tank in trunk still low
• Weld part of the cill and also floorplan (small repairs)
• PO put brake pipes on like a dog pissing the snow. Remove, and fit new pipes correctly to rear axle.
• Clean all brake pads, grease, DIY rebuild one front caliper that has a seized piston.
• Brake fluid flush again and set / adjust parking brake again.
• Check all lights still working and chase down persistent water leak into trunk
• Fit new battery
• Both back doors stuck - take doors apart and lubricate everything with proper oil not WD40. Likely will pull all 4x doors cards
• Repair loose rear door handle
• Proper wash and detail from sitting around
• General wire brushing and waxoyling to wheel wells etc as a temporary resto until I have my lift(s)

All outside

After MOT hopefully - get 2 new front wings painted and fitted, repair the rear arches and get the original alloy wheels pro refurbished.

She has good bones but needs work!

 

[JC220]

Some photos provided from @Prometey showing the all stainless back box made for my w124 E36 build. Super cool he made a single 70mm inlet work per my request! (To copy the C36 donor exhaust closely which was mostly single 70mm approx pipe)





This is a part that should sound good, last the life of the car and match in nicely with the AMG bumpers on it.

That car is long term project (too long) still needs painting. Maybe later this year I'll try.

 

[JC220]

S280 Update:

Spent (probably too long) tasking apart, cleaning and re-greasing my S280s windscreen wiper mech ahead of the MOT this day week.

This is the lowest miler of the fleet at 46k miles - originally from Singapore the car is in great shape. However this lack of use hurts things like the windscreen wiper through lack of use. MB also put in alarmingly low amounts of grease throughout. Indeed none in the shafts of the motor or wipers! What tiny amounts there was had turned to molasses hence it was all gummed up.

Ran into the usual captive nuts spinning so had to Dremel the bolt off and replace with chimney nuts so the same problem does not re-occur. Working fantastic now. She needs a windscreen as it's all badly delaminating at the lower edge as seen in the pics - cosmetic issue for now so I'll leave it a year or two until (hopefully) she is permanently in my new garage.

Cowlings all cleaned:



Metal treated with galv paint and clear Wurth protective wax



Mech was like new inside just as an example,

 

[JC220]

All the S280 needs now is a good bath all around. I have a 5L bottle of Bilt Hamber Touchless snow foam to try out (as a quality pre wash only l will contact wash)

They have been out of stock of this new snow foam since the launch a few weeks ago. I emailed their technical dept, asked nicely and they agreed to sell me one

 

[JC220]

My GFs w204 with the OM651 engine is now making a proper rattling noise on start up. I believe the SINGLE ROW timing chain is done at only 100k miles. Sigh

I have ordered the special timing tools and will be replacing the timing chain, tensioner and cam gears from above with the engine still in the car next Saturday. The timing chain on those is at the BACK of the engine. So nothing too handy about it.

What a PITA that w204 is. Total POS there isn't a job I haven't had to do on it. I'll leave it right then try to get shot of is this summer. Although many of these modern Diesel MB engines have issues!!

 

[ace10]

....

What a PITA that w204 is. Total POS there isn't a job I haven't had to do on it. I'll leave it right then try to get shot of is this summer. Although many of these modern Diesel MB engines have issues!!

I was sad when my wife grew tired of her W211 with OM648. I loved that drivetrain. They're pulling crazy $$ these days for good reason, IMO.

NFW would I touch one of these modern diesels. I had plenty of issues the two W164 oil burners I owned.

Good luck with the repair!

 

[JC220]

I was sad when my wife grew tired of her W211 with OM648. I loved that drivetrain. They're pulling crazy $$ these days for good reason, IMO.

NFW would I touch one of these modern diesels. I had plenty of issues the two W164 oil burners I owned.

Good luck with the repair!

Yes I have a daily driver OM646 with 230k miles on it. Never misses a beat and will go to 500k with ease I suspect!

The Blue Efficiency MB engines are notorious locally for breaking timing chains and needing bottom end rebuilds at 100k! No forking good at all hence why I am sticking with my OM646 for the foreseeable until MB learn how to make a decent diesel engine again.

Whilst I understand this is somewhat of a blanket statement and I do not want to trigger people, this applies to most but not all of the Blue Efficiency diesel MB engines.

 

[gsxr]

Yes I have a daily driver OM646 with 230k miles on it. Never misses a beat and will go to 500k with ease I suspect!

The Blue Efficiency MB engines are notorious locally for breaking timing chains and needing bottom end rebuilds at 100k! No forking good at all hence why I am sticking with my OM646 for the foreseeable until MB learn how to make a decent diesel engine again.

Whilst I understand this is somewhat of a blanket statement and I do not want to trigger people, this applies to most but not all of the Blue Efficiency diesel MB engines.

There's some interesting info on the BlueTEC engines out there, if you poke around... I believe the same issues may apply to the BlueEFFICIENCY versions. Bottom line it appears the premature failures may be related to the oil type and OCI. Due to the DPF cleaning cycle, it can cause oil problems, and if not changed much more often than specified, the engines don't last. I saved some docs here. I don't agree with everything the author concludes, but it seems he's on the right track. I'll stick with the good old OM603, last produced in mid-90's...

 

[JC220]

There's some interesting info on the BlueTEC engines out there, if you poke around... I believe the same issues may apply to the BlueEFFICIENCY versions. Bottom line it appears the premature failures may be related to the oil type and OCI. Due to the DPF cleaning cycle, it can cause oil problems, and if not changed much more often than specified, the engines don't last. I saved some docs here. I don't agree with everything the author concludes, but it seems he's on the right track. I'll stick with the good old OM603, last produced in mid-90's...

Yep I spoke to my dealer today and they said actually that most all OM651 MB diesel engines and newer are prone to failure!! Like oil and coolant mixing due to some combined vacuum pump taking out the engines. They have a semi regular stream of dead cars coming in he said - it's not good.

Anyway he agreed I'm best to stick with the OM646 for sure as they are the last of the bulletproof MB diesel engines.

I have hit a first for me today..... you know wiper blade refills? That's right the nasty mal fitting crap that you think of there. Well - I found Bosch perfect ones for w140 chassis!! Literally identical rubber to new factory w140 wipers.

I needed 3x sets and since the dealer only sells the wipers individually (£65 each) now and only one side is available I was in deep do do. I found Bosch refills for £10 a pair online delivered. Bought one set first to check and they are perfect Bosch / factory rubber refills. So I bought 2x more sets which was the last they show in stock on ebay. If more turn up I'll have a spare pair for each w140 too. Fantastic find to be able to renew the windscreen wipers with new factory rubber for £10 VS possibly NLA £120 wiper pair according to my dealer.

Ill post photos of the next 2 sets and Bosch ref number when they arrive next week. I used the first pair up tonight and they are on my S280 ahead of MOT Monday.

 

[JC220]

Well the OM651 W204 timing chain, tensioner & cam sprocket replacement was done over the weekend. Not as horrible a job as I thought but leaning to the back of the engine compartment is very sore on your calf muscles!! Could hardly walk last night after hours of that.

It was interesting to note the cam sprockets have no timing marks and no key. Therefore you install them finger tight on the left thread bolt, install and crimp new chain after pulling through and install tensioner. Then fully tension chain with cam locks in place and crank at TDC and only then tighten the centre left thread sprocket bolts. Thus the indexing of the cam sprockets rely soley on the clamp load of the bolts! However it is quite ingenious as the old slide rails do not interfere with accuracy of timing since you can set it without limits.

It was not a terribly exciting job I didn't take too many pictures but here are some:







Running again now zero faults zero leaks. Still want to test it for a bit to see if the rattle was indeed the chain or what the story is. When in there all the way to the chain it is my opinion to just change it out which is what I did. The old one did not appear too bad but time will tell.

 

[JC220]

People talk about the economy of modern diesel engines eh? But look at the complexity of it all! The injectors, DPFs. Turbos etc etc to fail and empty your wallet.

There is something to be said for a bulletproof old MB V8 that goes 2 decades between re seals and has "low" pressure injectors etc. I think in balance there is little difference in running costs when averaging out the servicing and complexity of modern diesels..... give me the old V8s any day

My S280 W140 went for MOT tonight and passed no issues The old girl drives amazing altogether will enjoy putting miles on it again. At 46k it needed:

• New Left upper control arm (genuine MB)
• Wiper mech stripped, cleaned and greased to get moving againg due to lack of use
• New Bosch Wiper rubber refills OEM spec
• 2 new side repeater bulbs and cleaning of sockets
• ASR module replaced due to internal fault
• Rear door light switch as one jambed on. Had a new one on the shelf.

Many of these issue are due to lack of use and low miles. Indeed it sat there for nearly 2 years due to covid, MOT centres being closed and too many other projects like the formally seized S500 coupe and misfiring S600TT. And the basket case weldathon S430L

Anyway the S280 is driving perfect zero faults drives like a new car. Not the most agile thing but makes up for it in living rooms worth of leather and double glazed silence to waft around in. The needs some bodywork which it will get this summer.

w140 S320 next whilst still battling parts suppliers for S430 engine refurbishment.

 

[a777fan]

Joe... how 'pokey' is that massive w140 with the 2.8L M104? Does is sound like hamsters being murdered up front when you mash the 'go' pedal? Or is it so well insulated that you can't hear the little suckers being flung into the abyss?

 

[JC220]

Joe... how 'pokey' is that massive w140 with the 2.8L M104? Does is sound like hamsters being murdered up front when you mash the 'go' pedal? Or is it so well insulated that you can't hear the little suckers being flung into the abyss?

What we say locally is "It wouldn't pull the skin off a rice pudding" which is true for the S280 yes indeed. The m104 works hard to get her up to speed and I don't push it either. It is a car to be wafted around in and enjoyed. If I want speed ill get into my S600TT or 500E

The S280 is all about feeling like a dictator behind the double glazed glass. It was my first S class which was based purely on the @gsxr collector odometer reading, Signapore history and amazing condition;



As an example this car STILL has her original front brake discs and brake pads from 1997 Still loads of meat on them they are 100% so I cleaned and put them back in at the time. My MB valuer wet himself at the thought.

It's all about condition on this S280 not speed



I will drop the subframes etc when I have my lift and shot blast, galv and paint everything. It will be one of the cleanest w140s in the world at that point