I'll take pics of all time slips and post them.
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Well, further study of the video has revealed that Steve redlighted his first race against Spacey Casey too so I guess Spacey Casey did win at least one after all this time. I'm very sure his overall race record against Steve still isn't too good though.
Regards, Eric
Nope. 1/4 tank = 4-5 gallons = roughly 30 lbs of weight at the most, but remember you need 2-3 gallons in the tank to, well, run the engine.
I'd guess 30 lbs is worth a few hundredths or so. You'd need a change of ~100lbs for a change of 0.15 seconds.
Thanks and although I did manage an .032 RT later on, I bombed on the rest of the RT's.
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Yep, as far as grudge matching goes.
Nope. 1/4 tank = 4-5 gallons = roughly 30 lbs of weight at the most, but remember you need 2-3 gallons in the tank to, well, run the engine.
So you subscribe to the 100 pounds equals a tenth rule?
Something else I'm wondering: Which combo would get better fuel economy? A 5.0 M119 with 2.24 gears or a 4.2 M119 with 2.82 gears? Which combo would be quicker?
Regards, Eric
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You get a hearty congrats for a .025 R/T while I don't get squat for my best of all of us for the day .007! I guess I am held to a higher standard!
Hey, I just noticed something:
http://www.500eboard.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=5519&d=1326230345
One minute before you ran your heat soak induced 14.351 @ 97.17, I ran a heat soak induced 14.442 @ 97.61 against a Cummins Dodge. That would have made for another close all M119 race! It's too bad we didn't get to line up that time!
Regards, Eric
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As a VERY VERY rough guide, yes. That's 100 lbs static weight, btw, not rotational (wheels/tires/brake rotors). Find out for yourself: Keep 100 lbs of ballast in the trunk for a couple runs, then remove it. See how much the ET changes. It will vary from car to car, yours will likely be a bit more or less than a tenth, but I'd bet it's within 5 hundredths (same day, no other changes).
I'd expect the 4.2L to get better economy even with 2.65/2.82 gears. As to which would be quicker (in the same chassis), that's a tough call. The 5.0 would always have the higher trap speed, but the ET's could be pretty close (assuming zero wheelspin).
Yes and no. Yes we do hold you to a higher standard, as you have far more experience than the Vookster. But no, I just missed your .007 light - sorry! Anything under 0.100 is very very good, under 0.050 is downright excellent, and 0.00x is plain awesome. In competition I'm happy with a green <0.100 and prefer to stay in the 0.030-0.060 range (which is extremely difficult to achieve on a consistent basis).
Dooood, you just needed to post your time slip and then the .007 ET would have been seen. Just take a picture of the time slip next time.
Eric will spend 2 hours rigging up a complicated lattice of tape and old baseball cards to block a 1/4" hole in his headlight buckets that could potentially be leaking air out of the intake tract, but he won't spend 20 minutes to wash his car or put up pics of his own time slips!
Disclaimer; only kidding.
Disclaimer-Disclaimer; only partially.
Disclaimer; only kidding.
Disclaimer-Disclaimer; only partially.
The Mad Scientist needs to track his car when it’s washed, it just might cut through air better...this hypothesis should be tested.Eric's dirty car
makes it to the end quickly
blending with the earth
Btw, when are we going to see you at the track?
Mad scientist? Given some of the events this past year, I think the attached picture might be more appropriate for him, hehehehe
You'll see me in my 200 soon as it gets out of the shop - turns out I melted the cats while testing the car trying to diagnose and fix it myself, so we've got that issue and then that nagging tranny shifting item (hopefully it's just the governor). That's low priority, but I hope to make it out in a few months' time. I originally wanted to be done in time for VARA school, but combo of work and other projects pushing that to next year. That's okay
You'll see me in my 200 soon as it gets out of the shop - turns out I melted the cats while testing the car trying to diagnose and fix it myself, so we've got that issue and then that nagging tranny shifting item (hopefully it's just the governor). That's low priority, but I hope to make it out in a few months' time. I originally wanted to be done in time for VARA school, but combo of work and other projects pushing that to next year. That's okay
Attachments
Dave, please share your thoughts regarding the above post. In your humble opinion, what mods got me what gains? Uncle Gerry, please weigh in too!
Interesting that the W211 E55 ran approx 12.3 @ 111... it launched harder than Justin's 500, but Justin was only 2mph down (~109) at the top end. The E55's low-end torque really helps the launch and low ET. Once Justin gets Hoosiers and LSD, and the 150 shot rejet, that E55 will be in serious trouble!
The Mad Scientist has been thinking about this. The problem is that the E55 dude has access to his boost immediately at the start of the run while Justin's "boost" (in the form of the N2O) isn't available to him until the pre-set point that Bergwerks Steve has deemed "safe". ("Safe" being a relative term in that any conscientious person is gonna play it safer on a kit they are selling than they are gonna play it on something they are putting on their own car.) I say there is a lot of room to bring that N20 on earlier! Now add a LSD, and Justin will be in the hunt with that E55! We all know that the first 60' of the race are the most important!
Yes, the 150 shot should help some but isn't Justin already on the 125 shot?
Justin was on slicks too BTW. (Or at least good drag radials.)
Regards, Eric
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Hard to say. The shorter tires may reduce your ET slightly but will not affect trap speed. The lighter wheels will increase trap speed and should reduce ET slightly as well. The trans tweak would likely have minimal effect (near zero, IMO) unless the shifts previously were *very* slow and soft, and are now quick & firm. Add up everything and maybe 1 tenth, 1 mph? Maybe a bit more?
I researched this a while ago. There is significant risk of breaking rings if you turn on the NOS too early, due to extreme cylinder pressures. Justin already pushed it down to ~2800rpm, I think, from Steve's recommended ~3000 minimum. (?) I wouldn't go much lower - not worth the risk. NOS engages at roughly 40' out (give or take 5 feet). He's on 125 shot now, a 150 shot should bump him to mid 12's at low 11x mph. But he's got wheelspin with those Nitto drag radials. I've talked with him about getting Hoosiers (and LSD of course) but apparently he's not made of money, lol! One thing at a time...
My data recorder shows actual engine RPM (from tach signal) along with time and distance. Most 500's are in the 2.00-2.20 second range to hit the 60' mark, and the general NOS engagement is approx 3000rpm (GVZ or J-sauce can provide their actual engagement RPM from the window switch).
2.0 seconds = 3600rpm at approx 32 feet.
2.2 seconds = 3925rpm at approx 40 feet.
This is with my 2.65 gears, and NOT accounting for rollout in the dragstrip beams, both of which will cause higher RPM's/speed by the same time (or approx distance). Bottom line, the engine is well past the 3000rpm NOS engagement prior to 60'. Could be y'all aren't purging the lines prior to launch, and it's taking a second before the juice hits the engine? Not sure what your purge procedure is. I guess it's a different question as to when the NOS actually starts making power, i.e. if the window switch turns on the NOS at 3000rpm, is it instant? Or is the engine at 3500+ before the butt dyno registers it?
2.0 seconds = 3600rpm at approx 32 feet.
2.2 seconds = 3925rpm at approx 40 feet.
This is with my 2.65 gears, and NOT accounting for rollout in the dragstrip beams, both of which will cause higher RPM's/speed by the same time (or approx distance). Bottom line, the engine is well past the 3000rpm NOS engagement prior to 60'. Could be y'all aren't purging the lines prior to launch, and it's taking a second before the juice hits the engine? Not sure what your purge procedure is. I guess it's a different question as to when the NOS actually starts making power, i.e. if the window switch turns on the NOS at 3000rpm, is it instant? Or is the engine at 3500+ before the butt dyno registers it?
You could well be right with regard to purging, because I installed my purge valve (and most importantly, for the purpose of the chicks, my purge cloud illumination LED) AFTER i did my dragstrip runs (when I had the 12.89/108 run, etc.).
Y'all just haven't lived until you've NOS-purged & lit the cloud up with a sparkling disco-ball LED array in front of a crowd of hotties.......
Very high 2.0 or more commonly 2.1-second 60' times are common with the E500E. NOS never had an effect on this per my timeslips.
Y'all just haven't lived until you've NOS-purged & lit the cloud up with a sparkling disco-ball LED array in front of a crowd of hotties.......
Very high 2.0 or more commonly 2.1-second 60' times are common with the E500E. NOS never had an effect on this per my timeslips.
He's on 125 shot now, a 150 shot should bump him to mid 12's at low 11x mph. But he's got wheelspin with those Nitto drag radials. I've talked with him about getting Hoosiers (and LSD of course) but apparently he's not made of money, lol! One thing at a time...
We all know that the Sauceman has that 12.79 but, for the most part, he runs 13.0s most of the time on the sauce. He's gonna need more than just 25 more horses to get down into the mid-12s, and he's also gonna need to run better than mid-12s to beat that E55. (His first run was a 12.7, but by the end of the day he was running 12.3s!) Yes, he needs to do the Hoosiers and LSD and 150 shot, but he also needs to turn that sauce on earlier too! It'll be OK. It's not a Chevy and it's not a BMW. It can take it! Can we agree on 2,400 RPM?
Justin did purge his line before running.
Regards, Eric
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Something else I've been thinking about. Every one of us was unable to get anywhere near our previous best E/Ts that we have obtained in the past. All of us EXCEPT for Jett and Steve. Why? Well, Jett has done some more mods AND he has improved his launching technique. And then there is Steve, who ran within a hair of his previous best, again, despite the fact that none of the rest of us could get anywhere near our previous bests. Why? I think it's because ole Stevo has made another improvement or two! Come-on Stevo, give it up! What did you do? Did you have a whole lot less fuel in the tank this time? Another tune on your ECU? What is it?
Justin has that first race between Stevo and me on his camera. Everybody say it with me now: Come-on Justin, please post that video! (I know Steve would like to see it and a few other people would like to see it too!).
Also, speaking of Justin, would you guys please tell him that running wheel spacers isn't safe! He doesn't believe me!
Regards, Eric
Justin has that first race between Stevo and me on his camera. Everybody say it with me now: Come-on Justin, please post that video! (I know Steve would like to see it and a few other people would like to see it too!).
Also, speaking of Justin, would you guys please tell him that running wheel spacers isn't safe! He doesn't believe me!
Regards, Eric
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Justin's primary obstacle to lower ET's is traction. We've discussed this at length (privately, off the forum). Once he gets the car to run with zero wheelspin, I expect it to be sub-13.0 every time.
Wheel spacers in general are not a good idea, I personally avoid them. I am not sure of the safety aspect, but if they are name brand, hubcentric, not excessively thick (say, 5-10mm max), and use correct length bolts... they should be ok in a straight line (dragstrip). I'd be less confident on a road course with high lateral G's but that might just be my over-cautious nature.
Wheel spacers in general are not a good idea, I personally avoid them. I am not sure of the safety aspect, but if they are name brand, hubcentric, not excessively thick (say, 5-10mm max), and use correct length bolts... they should be ok in a straight line (dragstrip). I'd be less confident on a road course with high lateral G's but that might just be my over-cautious nature.
Nothing has been done and this time I had a smudge over a ¼ tank of gas compared to the previous track day, where I had exactly a ¼ tank of gas. Maybe the car and the driver are just getting used to the track and ¼ mile racing in general.
The only true difference this time, I was power braking at the line (whereas before I wasn’t) and had industrial tracks blasting, as you heard. Maybe the industrial tracks made the car more aggressive?
If Justin does have the video, maybe it's posted on his YouTube channel, have you checked?
Spacers for drag racing is ok. As far as street, I'm with Dave - not my cup of tea.
Yes, I've already checked Justin's channel about a thousand times, but I haven't checked yet today. I will.
Interesting that you were powerbraking this time, and interesting how you redlighted a bunch more this time too. I've noticed I redlight A LOT more when I powerbrake too. I'm not necessarily quicker in the 1/4 when I powerbrake but I do redlight a lot more. I see a pattern here.
I need to put this spacer thing in the proper context. Justin is telling me to run the spacers at the Mojave Mile. He's telling me if there is nothing in the rules prohibiting spacers, then it's OK to run them. I say no! (Now he's gonna come on here and say that that is not what he said.) It's OK Justin! We still love you anyways! I'd rather run tires that are a year older than what the rules allow than run spacers! And on top of that they are NOT name brand, and they are NOT hubcentric.
Regards, Eric
Interesting that you were powerbraking this time, and interesting how you redlighted a bunch more this time too. I've noticed I redlight A LOT more when I powerbrake too. I'm not necessarily quicker in the 1/4 when I powerbrake but I do redlight a lot more. I see a pattern here.
I need to put this spacer thing in the proper context. Justin is telling me to run the spacers at the Mojave Mile. He's telling me if there is nothing in the rules prohibiting spacers, then it's OK to run them. I say no! (Now he's gonna come on here and say that that is not what he said.) It's OK Justin! We still love you anyways! I'd rather run tires that are a year older than what the rules allow than run spacers! And on top of that they are NOT name brand, and they are NOT hubcentric.
Regards, Eric
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No, Justin still hasn't posted the video of our first race yet. I'd venture a guess that it will get posted a whole lot quicker if you ask him Steve. (Or even if Dave asks him for that matter.) Here's a link to his channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/TheSauceManJr so we can go there quickly for a look. I'm sure if I had blown the race and burned rubber all the way down the track it would've already been posted by now. (As we have already seen be the case twice before.)
Sorry guys, please humor me. Since there's no new racing videos to watch I wound up hunting for some songs and I found some! The problem is that I'm on someone else's computer and I can't log in to my YouTube account so I can't save these there. I'm already here so I'll just stick them here for now. They're good anyways so no one should mind. I know the O.P. doesn't.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mdpB1hJaTg4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=30smAQOfusY&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C3uaXCJcRrE&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IR8hYUBw6ug (I used to blast this one back in the day on the way to the street races in my mid-13 second 401 Javelin AMX, Meaning no disrespect to Paul Rodgers but this one rocked! Good message too!)
What the Heck, since we are in a music mode, the next time you guys watch this video:
[youtube]bVLWxpijrBM[/youtube]
Turn off the sound and play this song as it's soundtrack instead:
[youtube]ULxYTXhd56s[/youtube]
(What till it gets to about 1:30 minutes though before you start the race video.)
Yeah, now THAT is more like it!
Now if only we could figure out how a guy who loves James Taylor could also love The Scream.
Regards, Eric
Sorry guys, please humor me. Since there's no new racing videos to watch I wound up hunting for some songs and I found some! The problem is that I'm on someone else's computer and I can't log in to my YouTube account so I can't save these there. I'm already here so I'll just stick them here for now. They're good anyways so no one should mind. I know the O.P. doesn't.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mdpB1hJaTg4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=30smAQOfusY&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C3uaXCJcRrE&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IR8hYUBw6ug (I used to blast this one back in the day on the way to the street races in my mid-13 second 401 Javelin AMX, Meaning no disrespect to Paul Rodgers but this one rocked! Good message too!)
What the Heck, since we are in a music mode, the next time you guys watch this video:
[youtube]bVLWxpijrBM[/youtube]
Turn off the sound and play this song as it's soundtrack instead:
[youtube]ULxYTXhd56s[/youtube]
(What till it gets to about 1:30 minutes though before you start the race video.)
Yeah, now THAT is more like it!
Now if only we could figure out how a guy who loves James Taylor could also love The Scream.
Regards, Eric
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Thought I already told y'all... but we found that the amount of powerbraking (i.e., launch RPM) can have a significant effect on reaction times. Might be as much as 2 tenths (0.200) between no powerbrake (launching at idle) and moderate powerbrake (launching at ~1500rpm). However there is ZERO effect on the ET and trap speed. It only changes reaction time.
If they are not hubcentric they are dangerous and should not be used on a Mercedes. If the wheel isn't centered properly you'd get nasty vibration, especially at high speeds (i.e., freeway speeds). I'd be surprised if they were not hubcentric. Maybe they're thin enough to still allow the wheel to center on the factory hub? What spacers are they, and why are they being used (i.e., for what wheels, etc).
I believe this concern about wheel spacers exists as a kind of urban legand possibly born of shade tree mechanics experimenting with things unknown to them, (no reference to anyone here). I have complete confidence in using properly manufactured and installed wheel spacers. So do the engineers at Porsche where they used them on some of their wide body variants of the 930 chassis. I have also talked with the regional representitive for motorsports at BBS about the subject and he expressed the same opinion. It takes a tremendous amount of force to break a wheel loose from a hub, (i have some experience with this). I do understand the concern over somthing so important to the saftey of a vehicle and the skepticism may serve a useful purpose. Wheel spacers shouldn't be used without proper knowledge.
Back to the race report...
drew
Back to the race report...
drew
You DID tell us and we WERE paying attention (at least I was), but sometimes us kids have to find things out for ourselves the hard way!
If they are not hubcentric they are dangerous and should not be used on a Mercedes. If the wheel isn't centered properly you'd get nasty vibration, especially at high speeds (i.e., freeway speeds). I'd be surprised if they were not hubcentric. Maybe they're thin enough to still allow the wheel to center on the factory hub? What spacers are they, and why are they being used (i.e., for what wheels, etc).
They're no name universal crap with over-sized slotted lug holes obviously made to fit multiple applications. They're not very thick but they are thick enough to prevent the wheel from centering on the factory hub. The only reason why they worked at all was because of my careful and methodical and staggerd slow by hand lug tightening technique which allowed the wheel to be centered adequately. They were being used to make a set of W140 wheels work on a W124. When I got the wheels, I saw the spacers and figured (correctly) that since they were needed on that W124 they would be needed on mine too. It's really crazy because I have 2 other W140 wheels where the offset is too much in the other direction and they stick out too far instead of being in too far. All 6 of these wheels have "140" as the prefix of their casting number. Crazy! I just wanted some factory looking 8 hole 16 inch wheels! (Aftermarket wheels make you cop bait.) Why is everything so hard! (I'm pretty sure that 036 wheels would stick out too far too. After all, MB had to flare the 036 wheel wells to run them!)
We were using those spacers and W140 wheels at the first race of 2011, exactly 1 year ago.
[youtube]t28ZYdfrMVs[/youtube]
[youtube]_HPSSkDnNP8[/youtube]
(Here's another one I want to save but can't cause I'm still not on my own computer. Caught this gal on SNL and I find her music quite good, despite negative buzz on youtube regarding her performance tonight. I agree with the post that said that this girl on a bad day is still better than Katy Perry on a good day! You all can disregard if you like.) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8t-I-Lqy06g
Regards, Eric
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This depends on your definition of "adequately". I tried this once with some BBS wheels that lacked the proper MB centering rings. I used a dial gauge on the bare wheel and tried your "careful slow tighten" method, several times The wheel DID NOT center perfectly. It was out by 0.5-1.0mm (can't remember exactly, but it was not acceptable). Only after installing the centering rings did the wheel center correctly. It's not possible to center the wheel properly otherwise.
Just because a wheel (or any MB part) has "140" as the prefix of the part number does not always mean the wheel/part is for a 140 chassis, or was even used on a 140 chassis. Most of the time yes, but this is not an absolute rule. They are likely W140 wheels but we'd need the full part number and size specs (width & offset) to figure out for sure. The bigger problem is the W140 wheels have M14 lug bolt holes and seats. Using M12 bolts/seats is not safe. You need aftermarket hybrid bolts with M12 thread and M14 ball seat for this setup. Probably not a huge deal at sub-freeway speeds, but at >100mph, I wouldn't do this.
Dude, you crack me up. Wheels won't make you cop bait unless perhaps they are chromed dub-deuce spinners, or something else ridiculous. You really think cops can tell one 16"/17" wheel from another and if they are OE or not? Or that an .034 chassis should only have 8-holers because that's what came from the factory? ROTFL!! The majority of MB aficionados wouldn't even know that!!
500E wheels are 8.0 ET34 and stick out pretty far on a normal 124 chassis. If you roll the fender lips and use the fender spacers, etc they'll work... but may rub up front when cornering hard, and may rub in the rear with a full load. They will work but they're not an ideal fitment. They're not particularly light, but not bad for their size. I thought you were using forged CLK's? Why do you even care about 8-holers? Dump those "W140" wheels and get the right stuff already!
My definition of adequate is no vibration at the 98-99 MPH trap speeds we attained at the track. Again, it wasn't my preferred way of doing it but I made it work till the Brabuses came along. You don't have to convince me, I know that whole deal sucked but I'm a master at making the best of what I have to work with.
#140 400 09 02 are the ones that stick in too far. I got them off of a W124. I was using the very same lug nuts that were being used to secure them to the W124. #140 400 13 02 are the ones that stick out too far. I only have two of those. They were on a W126.
And speaking of these lug bolt issues, are there any similar issues with these CLKs that we need to be concerned with? (I already know that there is an issue with the bolt length.)
I'm not saying a Benz with a set of rims from a different Benz makes you cop bait and I'm not saying a Benz with a set of aftermarket rims that look close to stock makes you cop bait. I AM saying that a car, ANY car, with rims that are clearly aftermarket, even tastefully done aftermarket rims, makes you cop bait. Example: When B3 was wearing the Brabuses, I got more cop attention in 3 months than I normally get in a 2 year period! My ticket count proves it! I got that stupid "excessive noise" ticket during the Brabus wearing period despite the fact that B3 had already been that loud for over 3 years! The Brabuses looked great, but the attention they got was from the wrong people. They apparently say "Race car" to the law. That's just the way it is out here, maybe it's different where you are.
I simply wanted to stay as stock looking as possible so I could fly low under the radar. They didn't necessarily have to be 8 holers. I also wanted to keep the car as stock looking as possible for the "sleeper" effect. Look stock and carry a big stick has always been my philosophy and I have used it to great effect since the 70s. In the early 90s, my mid-13 second 401 Javelin AMX wasn't the absolute fastest thing on wheels, but the fact that it was a "lowly AMC" and the fact that it looked and even sounded completely bone stock (right down to the ported stock exhaust manifolds) made up for that in spades. (I did that car right!)
I thought you were using forged CLK's? Why do you even care about 8-holers? Dump those "W140" wheels and get the right stuff already!
Well, now that you have brought it up, yes, I am running CLKs now but Justin wants me to sell two of them back to him. He sold 2 CLKs to that dude with the E55 and now he has none. And even though the dude has said he will sell them back to him in the not too distant future, he doesn't want to wait that long and he is also afraid that the dude "is gonna want what he paid for them", and Justin doesn't want to "pay that much" lol. I think it's gonna work out even better for Justin because he is probably gonna get the Hoosiers that are now mounted on them thrown in as part of the deal and they will very likely have a decent amount of life left! (The E55 is actually the dude's wife's car and he is gonna run it at only one more track day and then go back to his own ride, a 10 second Chevy truck.) So anyways, Justin has asked me to think about it and that's what I've been doing, revisiting my other options, and I'm finding that they all still suck, just like they did the last time I visited them. Besides being cop bait, the Brabuses have another problem: for some strange reason, they have an over-sized hub hole so they technically aren't hub centric either! (Do these need centering rings too? Why would wheels made for a MB need centering rings to work on a MB? Brabuses aren't made for anything else, are they?) And they are super heavy bitches too!
I'm still actually short some rims as I still need to upgrade Benzer4 too! The stock 15s that these things come with are pathetically small!
Edit: Well I just noticed that my ole buddy Jeff was selling some CLKs just 4 days ago and Justin weighed in on that thread so we know he knew about them. Why didn't somebody inform me of this Justin? You said that the aluminum oil tubes you scored me are worth $200? Well Jeff still owes me a set! A great plan would have been for him to reduce the price of his CLKs by $200 and then sell them to you. I would have agreed to that deal to call his debt with me even (as long as it meant you and I would be even.) That would have squared all three of us up! Why in the world didn't you tell me about Jeff's CLKs??? It would have been perfect!!! I would have even reimbursed you for two of them just to make the deal happen (if you wanted) since you only want two of them! (I still need two for B4! Got to get busy on that car!)
Regards, Eric
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The first are 16x7.5, the EPC says they were only used in Europe/Japan but that may not be correct. The second are 16x8.0 and are used on the rear of some W140 models from 95-up. The EPC doesn't post the offset, you'll need to find the "ETxx" number stamped on the back of the wheel...
The CLK's used M12 bolts, only issue there is bolt length. It's the S-class wheels which are M14, those cause problems, and in general should be avoided (i.e., not used on cars with M12 hubs, especially without the custom hybrid bolts).
Some Brabus wheels require centering rings, others do not. The set I have was quite heavy too. I got them for possible snow tire use, then decided not to drive that car in the winter, so they're collecting dust at the moment. Oh well.
Drew, I am 99% certain that my Brabus wheels (17x8, MB-III) don't have centering rings, but I should double-check. Could be that older ones had the 66.7mm bore, while later ones needed centering rings...? I'm not a Brabus expert though so I'm really not sure. I lost interest in them after putting them on a scale, 29 lbs each, plus they need to be straightened & refinished ($$$$).
Interesting! Got photos, or a link....?
BTW - what size/type Hoosiers are on the CLK's you might buy back or something?
Thank you, sir.Yeah Steve, I'll get it up for you within the hour man.
Thanks for posting the video Justin!
[youtube]O_FcorHFLJo&list[/youtube]
Epic fricking race! (Except for the minor redlight.)
Jano is right! My car is faster because it seems to blend with the Earth!
Thanks Drew and Dave for your info on my wheel issues. It would seem that the most viable option for me would be to get TWO MORE CLK wheels, not get rid of two of the ones I have.
Regards, Eric
[youtube]O_FcorHFLJo&list[/youtube]
Epic fricking race! (Except for the minor redlight.)
Jano is right! My car is faster because it seems to blend with the Earth!
Thanks Drew and Dave for your info on my wheel issues. It would seem that the most viable option for me would be to get TWO MORE CLK wheels, not get rid of two of the ones I have.
Regards, Eric
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I think you should give me BACK two of them, and find four new ones on your own. Or maybe give me back those oil tubes so I can smash half of them with a hammer. Dave needs an incomplete set, so I can sell him the rest for a handful of pocket lint, half a ham sandwich and some 036 advice. Thanks.
By putting the focus on that video, I thought we were getting this thread back on topic. OK, we'll explore this further since we have no new racing to talk about for three more weeks.
If you hadn't sold the LAST TWO CLKs that you had to that E55 dude, you wouldn't have to be trying to guilt/blackmail me into giving these back! If you spent half as much time looking for more CLKs as you do obsessing about these, you would have spotted Jeff's before he sold them. Speaking of which, what about my idea about Jeff's CLKs? The really f'ed thing about all of this is I wouldn't EVEN need the oil tubes if Jeff hadn't f'ed me on the tubes that were supposed to come with that "running" 92 engine I bought from him. (How well would a M119 run with 16 missing oil tubes? Again, those tubes were the main reason why I bought that damn engine!) To this day the only thing I've been able to use off of that nappy engine is the stuff I gave you! So he says the CLKs are sold now. Did you get them? Let's focus on getting more CLKs instead of arguing about these that I have, which aren't even up to your standards! Let's find another set, and you can have the prettiest two of that set, I'll take the other 2! (I'm even trying to help find some, that's how I found Jeff's CLKs.) Or you could instead just quit being an impatient kid and wait for the E55 dude's CLKs to come back to you for what you charged him for them, and you'll get the added bonus of getting the cool slicks as a bonus! He did say he was only gonna run that car ONE MORE TIME! Our next track day is in 3 weeks and 3 days! You're gonna have those things in less than a month! Are you that impatient? What's the rush? Is it that you want the rims now cause you want to beat the E55 before it gets retired from the track? Son, you're gonna need more than just the CLKs to pull that off.
Read all of the posts on this topic again. Like I promised you I would, I've given it fair and due consideration and the bottom line is I don't have any other viable wheel options right now. I need the CLKs for more than just track duty. Benzer4's tires are completely and totally shot! (And considering my low standards that is really saying something!) I don't want to waste money buying more puny, worthless 15" tires for the stock rims, and I shouldn't have to, because I ALREADY have a really good set of 16" tires ready to go! In other words, I need to change B4's tires NOW, which means I need to find B4 some rims NOW. I really NEED to get B4 going! Did you know that my wife has to ride in the back seat of B3 with the kids because the front passenger door frame is so jacked from the T-bone wreck? (After B3 got T-boned while parked where we used to live, the replacement door won't stay shut unless you repeatedly violently slam it for about 10 minutes.) That's not cool! Now that I think about it, I know that you do know because you should remember where I had to sit when I let YOU drive B3! I'm still two wheels short and you want to put me four wheels short all because you can't wait a month? Now who's the inconsiderate one? So inconsiderate that you even suggested that I run these funky spacers that are so questionable, I know that you wouldn't even use them, but they're OK to use on MY FAMILY CAR????? All because you just must have the CLKs in time for the next track day? All because you can't wait a month?
And then you even suggested that the spacers are OK for me to use at the Mojave Mile!!!!!
And now you reveal that you've been sitting on spacers that YOU KNOW would make the Brabuses a semi-viable option for me? How long have you been sitting on those? Huh?
By running some 16" rims on B4 instead of the stock 15s, (Or the 17" Brabuses for that matter), I won't need to buy ANY tires cause I already have a set of pristine 16" tires that are ready and waiting to be used! NEED to be used because they are already five years old. Those CLKs are the only 16s that I have that don't have any issues with going on B3 or B4 without funky parts aiding the swap. If you remember, THAT was the main reason for getting the CLKs, not the light weight. I even put some of the CLKs in with the tires, (and pointed the tires out to you while I was doing it). I was also originally hoping to make those rims and tires B3's Mohave Mile shoes, remember? The weight issue only became the focus later when my attentions turned to spanking The Stevo at the drags. (Which I'd still like to do, all in good fun though!) Now I need two more CLKs because I need to make another complete set so I can mount my Mohave Mile tires when I get them! (Since the tires I already have aren't gonna pass tech because they miss the age break by one year.)
Lily gave me a bunch of crap when you sold me the two CLKs and then again when you sold me the four because she knew I was spending money that I shouldn't have been spending on car stuff. (At least not at that point in time.) Her argument was that I had already bought some rims for the two V8 cars to run the new 16" tires on. I couldn't explain to her that running those rims isn't exactly safe, cause if I did I'd have to listen to even more shit, since she knows that we've already used those rims quite a bit on B3. In both cases I paid you immediately and in both cases it was money that I couldn't afford to spend, but I did anyway, even though it was last minute, spur of the moment with no warning and no planning. Just bam. But I did it. Why, because I need them! They were and remain the cheapest way for me to get some good rubber on one of my cars, since I already have the tires.
Now, before you bring up the fact that the deal was that you could buy them back at a later date if you wanted, don't bother, I'll do it for you. Yes, that was the deal, because you wanted the option to sell them for more money if that became an option for you at a later date, if you chose to pursue that. (You were also hoping to score some nicer ones since they would net more money on the web.) But it was also the deal that I could keep them if I wanted as long as you agreed to it, and after three months of waiting, I did ask you and you did agree to it. (Because you were back to making money again and didn't need to hawk wheels on the web for a quick buck anymore.) Now that you've decided you want a pair for your car, you seem to want to conveniently forget all of this except for the first part.
Again, why all of this drama? CHILL! You're gonna be sitting more pretty, rubber wise, than ANY OTHER M119 pilot in So. Cal. in less than a month! A measly month! CHILL!
Meanwhile, I'm still gonna be needing two more to complete the second set.
Regards, Eric
If you hadn't sold the LAST TWO CLKs that you had to that E55 dude, you wouldn't have to be trying to guilt/blackmail me into giving these back! If you spent half as much time looking for more CLKs as you do obsessing about these, you would have spotted Jeff's before he sold them. Speaking of which, what about my idea about Jeff's CLKs? The really f'ed thing about all of this is I wouldn't EVEN need the oil tubes if Jeff hadn't f'ed me on the tubes that were supposed to come with that "running" 92 engine I bought from him. (How well would a M119 run with 16 missing oil tubes? Again, those tubes were the main reason why I bought that damn engine!) To this day the only thing I've been able to use off of that nappy engine is the stuff I gave you! So he says the CLKs are sold now. Did you get them? Let's focus on getting more CLKs instead of arguing about these that I have, which aren't even up to your standards! Let's find another set, and you can have the prettiest two of that set, I'll take the other 2! (I'm even trying to help find some, that's how I found Jeff's CLKs.) Or you could instead just quit being an impatient kid and wait for the E55 dude's CLKs to come back to you for what you charged him for them, and you'll get the added bonus of getting the cool slicks as a bonus! He did say he was only gonna run that car ONE MORE TIME! Our next track day is in 3 weeks and 3 days! You're gonna have those things in less than a month! Are you that impatient? What's the rush? Is it that you want the rims now cause you want to beat the E55 before it gets retired from the track? Son, you're gonna need more than just the CLKs to pull that off.
Read all of the posts on this topic again. Like I promised you I would, I've given it fair and due consideration and the bottom line is I don't have any other viable wheel options right now. I need the CLKs for more than just track duty. Benzer4's tires are completely and totally shot! (And considering my low standards that is really saying something!) I don't want to waste money buying more puny, worthless 15" tires for the stock rims, and I shouldn't have to, because I ALREADY have a really good set of 16" tires ready to go! In other words, I need to change B4's tires NOW, which means I need to find B4 some rims NOW. I really NEED to get B4 going! Did you know that my wife has to ride in the back seat of B3 with the kids because the front passenger door frame is so jacked from the T-bone wreck? (After B3 got T-boned while parked where we used to live, the replacement door won't stay shut unless you repeatedly violently slam it for about 10 minutes.) That's not cool! Now that I think about it, I know that you do know because you should remember where I had to sit when I let YOU drive B3! I'm still two wheels short and you want to put me four wheels short all because you can't wait a month? Now who's the inconsiderate one? So inconsiderate that you even suggested that I run these funky spacers that are so questionable, I know that you wouldn't even use them, but they're OK to use on MY FAMILY CAR????? All because you just must have the CLKs in time for the next track day? All because you can't wait a month?
And then you even suggested that the spacers are OK for me to use at the Mojave Mile!!!!!
And now you reveal that you've been sitting on spacers that YOU KNOW would make the Brabuses a semi-viable option for me? How long have you been sitting on those? Huh?
By running some 16" rims on B4 instead of the stock 15s, (Or the 17" Brabuses for that matter), I won't need to buy ANY tires cause I already have a set of pristine 16" tires that are ready and waiting to be used! NEED to be used because they are already five years old. Those CLKs are the only 16s that I have that don't have any issues with going on B3 or B4 without funky parts aiding the swap. If you remember, THAT was the main reason for getting the CLKs, not the light weight. I even put some of the CLKs in with the tires, (and pointed the tires out to you while I was doing it). I was also originally hoping to make those rims and tires B3's Mohave Mile shoes, remember? The weight issue only became the focus later when my attentions turned to spanking The Stevo at the drags. (Which I'd still like to do, all in good fun though!) Now I need two more CLKs because I need to make another complete set so I can mount my Mohave Mile tires when I get them! (Since the tires I already have aren't gonna pass tech because they miss the age break by one year.)
Lily gave me a bunch of crap when you sold me the two CLKs and then again when you sold me the four because she knew I was spending money that I shouldn't have been spending on car stuff. (At least not at that point in time.) Her argument was that I had already bought some rims for the two V8 cars to run the new 16" tires on. I couldn't explain to her that running those rims isn't exactly safe, cause if I did I'd have to listen to even more shit, since she knows that we've already used those rims quite a bit on B3. In both cases I paid you immediately and in both cases it was money that I couldn't afford to spend, but I did anyway, even though it was last minute, spur of the moment with no warning and no planning. Just bam. But I did it. Why, because I need them! They were and remain the cheapest way for me to get some good rubber on one of my cars, since I already have the tires.
Now, before you bring up the fact that the deal was that you could buy them back at a later date if you wanted, don't bother, I'll do it for you. Yes, that was the deal, because you wanted the option to sell them for more money if that became an option for you at a later date, if you chose to pursue that. (You were also hoping to score some nicer ones since they would net more money on the web.) But it was also the deal that I could keep them if I wanted as long as you agreed to it, and after three months of waiting, I did ask you and you did agree to it. (Because you were back to making money again and didn't need to hawk wheels on the web for a quick buck anymore.) Now that you've decided you want a pair for your car, you seem to want to conveniently forget all of this except for the first part.
Again, why all of this drama? CHILL! You're gonna be sitting more pretty, rubber wise, than ANY OTHER M119 pilot in So. Cal. in less than a month! A measly month! CHILL!
Meanwhile, I'm still gonna be needing two more to complete the second set.
Regards, Eric
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Hey, Eric. Although I have viable arguments for every point you bring up, I was only joking about the tubes, so I won't perpetuate the argument. Let me address the points that don't pertain to me being an impatient kid.
I have indeed been looking for more clk wheels up and down. I hit 5 junkyards Sunday, scoured eBay and Craigslist, and even emailed someone selling a clk with the featherweights on it to see if he was up for some kind of swap. No luck.
I did however find a 95 s420 with metal tubes (weird) so I grabbed them.
As far as the e55 guy selling his, I do not plan on beating him ever so that has nothing to why I want them sooner than later. I honestly don't think he'll sell those any time soon. He didn't say he was going to sell them for sure in the first place. He said maybe, and he said definitely not until he brings the e55 another time or two WITH an upgraded pulley, which he isn't planning to do immediately. Plus, I'm not going to pay him $600, or even $500 for the set. On the subject of paying too much, I did see Jeff's wheels. Obviously they were worth $400 to someone, so I can't really say they were overpriced, but definitely more than I wanted to pay. More than you would pay.
Anyway, Casey and I are going to try to go to irwindale within the next few weeks. I know you hate 1/8th mile, but if you wanna work on your RT or 60', you're invited old chap!
I have indeed been looking for more clk wheels up and down. I hit 5 junkyards Sunday, scoured eBay and Craigslist, and even emailed someone selling a clk with the featherweights on it to see if he was up for some kind of swap. No luck.
I did however find a 95 s420 with metal tubes (weird) so I grabbed them.
As far as the e55 guy selling his, I do not plan on beating him ever so that has nothing to why I want them sooner than later. I honestly don't think he'll sell those any time soon. He didn't say he was going to sell them for sure in the first place. He said maybe, and he said definitely not until he brings the e55 another time or two WITH an upgraded pulley, which he isn't planning to do immediately. Plus, I'm not going to pay him $600, or even $500 for the set. On the subject of paying too much, I did see Jeff's wheels. Obviously they were worth $400 to someone, so I can't really say they were overpriced, but definitely more than I wanted to pay. More than you would pay.
Anyway, Casey and I are going to try to go to irwindale within the next few weeks. I know you hate 1/8th mile, but if you wanna work on your RT or 60', you're invited old chap!
Just FYI. The forged CLK's (p/n 6-647-0521) are available brand spanking new from MB for ~$260/each, via parts.com or MBFL. Lowest price I've seen is $252/ea from MB of Annapolis in MD. Shipping cost varies with each of course.
