M119 Badly Misfiring & Running Very Rough

[Smoky400E]

This is a decent front wheel bearing kit, right? https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-wheel-bearing-kit-1293300151

 

[Smoky400E]

I believe at least the right front bearing is done!

 

[gsxr]

Yep, FAG is ok. I use Timken, they are cheaper from Rock Auto. One Set12 and one Set17 per front wheel, plus the seal.

Make sure to measure the grease properly... 45g for the bearings & inside the hub, plus another 15g in the cap. Use a high-resolution postal or refrigerant scale to measure the grease into a Ziplock baggie.

You MUST use a dial gauge to set the end play... and then check/adjust again after driving ~500 miles or so on the new bearings.

I prefer the neon green OE/Genuine grease, btw. P/N 002-989-00-51-10 for a 150g tube which is enough for both front bearings. $9.75 MSRP at the dealer, ~$8 from discount dealers.

 

[Smoky400E]

Yep, FAG is ok. I use Timken, they are cheaper from Rock Auto. One Set12 and one Set17 per front wheel, plus the seal.

Make sure to measure the grease properly... 45g for the bearings & inside the hub, plus another 15g in the cap. Use a high-resolution postal or refrigerant scale to measure the grease into a Ziplock baggie.

You MUST use a dial gauge to set the end play... and then check/adjust again after driving ~500 miles or so on the new bearings.

I prefer the neon green OE/Genuine grease, btw. P/N 002-989-00-51-10 for a 150g tube which is enough for both front bearings. $9.75 MSRP at the dealer, ~$8 from discount dealers.

Great info. I watched a couple of decent YT videos on setting the play and so forth for the wheel bearings, but I had not seen that tip on proportioning the grease.

On the topic of front control arms; like a lot of stuff on this poor 400E the arms are probably due for replacement. I found TRW ones from Malaysia and Vaico from Turkey. Everything else I can find seems to be China-made. I cannot seem to find Lemforder anymore. For the rear arms/links it looks like Lemforder is easily available. It also doesn't look like the genuine ones are available currently from MB. I looked thru some older threads on this topic, but wondered what people are doing for this lately?

 

[gsxr]

Also - when adjusting bearing end play, use a few short lug bolts to tightly clamp the rotor to the hub. Otherwise you will get inaccurate readings and the bearings will be overtightened. When set correctly, it will take quite a bit of muscle to push/pull the rotor in/out and see the 0.02mm end play on the dial gauge.

If the ball joints are still tight with no play, and the grease boots are intact (not ripped)... I would repair your existing LCA's rather than replace them. Details here. Only replace the LCA's if the ball joints are bad (have play, or have had water/dirt enter through a ripped boot over a long period of time). The OE ball joints can last the life of the car if the boots remain intact.

Genuine LCA's are NLA and all the aftermarket options are lower quality than OE. If you do have to install aftermarket arms (I'd go with TRW)... replace the boots with OE and add a bunch of grease (Red Line CV-2 recommended). See video below. My first preference would be sourcing good used OE LCA's and rebuilding them, before using aftermarket though.

 

[Smoky400E]

Thanks Dave! Always such great input. Unfortunately the existing LCA are probably junk, decent amount of surface rust and the boot on the right at least is totally gone.

 

[Smoky400E]

Got the Depo euro style headlights test fitted and to me it looks way better than before, not as good as the real thing but this car isn’t worth those at this point.

 

[Smoky400E]

Visited the nearest W124 parts cars I could find about an hour away yesterday and found some decent windshield cowl trim, a corner light and a rearview mirror. The guy that owns the parts cars is a total MB aficionado with a large number of older (mostly W123) cars. He also had a '92 500SL in white with the most beautiful blue leather interior.

 

[Smoky400E]

Does anyone recognize this clip? I found it under the left headlight when I was replacing it but can’t figure out where it belongs.

 

[gsxr]

Does anyone recognize this clip? I found it under the left headlight when I was replacing it but can’t figure out where it belongs.

That is the clip which retains the IAT (intake air temp) sensor at the driver side headlight plastic enclosure. It is NLA... don't lose it.

 

[Smoky400E]

So I finally got some new fuses for the car (first order was lost in the mail apparently). I went thru and replaced all of them and cleaned up the contacts, but I noticed that the previous arrangement of the fuses did not at all match the table on the underside of the fuse box cover. I assume that someone likely just didn't know what they were doing and I should follow the factory fuse layout? As far as I can see so far the car is basically stock except that someone installed and older aftermarket stereo that I can't get to work (I think it coded).

 

[GBR129]

New member here, this very neglected '92 400E will be my next MB project. It runs/drives somewhat, but sounds awful of course, but wondering what I should work on first besides the basic tune-up stuff. Car has likely be sitting for 10+ years. I was planning on these basic steps, but very open to opinions and recommendations:

1. Check and likely replace battery and clean terminals.
2. Replace all fuses with new, good quality ones.
3. Inspect engine wiring harness, it appears to have been replaced, but need to verify.
4. Inspect and possibly replace engine grounding wires (not sure where these are on an M119).
5. Drain all old gas, refill with like 5 gallons of fresh premium.
6. Replace fuel filter, inspect fuel lines.
7. Run engine to operating temp (monitoring it carefully), change engine oil, filter, filter housing gasket, drop oil pan, inspect bottom end, and replace oil pan gasket. (should I consider using the LiquiMoly engine flush? I have had good results with that on old BMWs)
8. Replace spark plugs and inspect spark plug wires (they appear to have been replaced previously).
9. Inspect ignition system and plan for a full replacement depending on condition.
10. Remove and replace drive belt and tensioner.
11. Inspect cooling system and plan for at least a partial replacement of main components.
12. Replace air filters, clean airbox, replace intake ducts (bought the M117 ones, hopefully they can be made to work without too much hassle.
13. Test run engine...and likely find more issues that need addressing.
14. Replace motor mounts, inspect transmission mount.
15. Flush power steering system, replace filter and refill with fresh fluid.
16. Plan for the upper timing chain guides, cam oiler o-ring, valve cover gasket project. It looks like it is recommended to only use Genuine MB parts for this job.
17. Change transmission fluid and filter, inspect flex discs.
18. Replace rubber brake lines (might go SS lines), flush brake fluid, refill system, plan for complete brake pad/rotor replacement.
19. Clean horribly dirty car for moral support.
20. Test drive car...find more issues.

I would also closely inspect the cam seals. If they're old/original, they'll leak oil that is almost aspirated into the caps and cause severe misfiring.

 

[Smoky400E]

I would also closely inspect the cam seals. If they're old/original, they'll leak oil that is almost aspirated into the caps and cause severe misfiring.

Ok will do. I am planning to do the upper guides and valve cover gaskets soon.