im linking a youtube video of whats going on. I need the legend gsxr to help my bad situation 
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m119 misfire still there after the distributor changed
- Thread starter motor gear head
- Start date
Yo need to read faultcodes...hopefully there are some to use. IF not...you need to go by actual values. That idling has nothing to do with " poor distributor caps". It sounds more like either vacum leak, bad ignition module, or throttle body /wiring. Something is up for sure. And a faultcode readout/ actual value session is A must.
ill start by trying to get the error code funny thing is i dont get a check engine light
A check engine light only pertains to emissions-related faults, which is one of four or five different computer modules that the car has.
Does your car have a check engine light, because it is a US model?
its US spec
and no i dont have a check engine light
You will need to read codes. There is 99.9 percent something wrong,that will show up to give you a direction to where to look further
where can i find that obd1 reader and im gonna change all the vacuum hoses. i had a look at them today they are fossilised
There is no obd connector. You need a 38 pint connector,that connects to the connector located on the "CanBox " ,again located on the right uppers side of the engine bay.where can i find that obd1 reader and im gonna change all the vacuum hoses. i had a look at them today they are fossilised
where can i buy a 38 pin connector
FYI - Exploring the Super MB Star M6+ Diagnostic System | De-Coding
This thread is intended to be an in-depth exploration of the new generation of the Chinese-made "Super MB Star M6+" diagnostic systems that came into production in the late 2023 period, and began being sold in early 2024. Introduction As discussed in recent (December 2024) posts in the...
how can reset the codes without buying 1000$ sms
you need to have a complete diagnostic system. If you dont..then you need to either get the car to a workshop..or find someone who can assist you,Its not about resetting codes..its about reading codes..so you can diagnose the problem/issue your car is having.
ill update you guys when development happens
That's a USA-spec 1994 E420 which spent time in Japan before migrating to Bahrain.
#1 question: Was the car running normally before you replaced the caps? If so, did you do ANYTHING else besides replace the caps? If not... you must have done something wrong. Triple-check all of the wiring to verify you have the correct numbers at each terminal, etc. If you did anything else, that work is also suspect.
You can check fault codes with a blinker box, details are in the stickies in the De-Coding subforum here. However, if the problem is secondary ignition, there won't be any fault codes. Live data from SDS would be very helpful as this will show which specific cylinders, if any, are misfiring.
#1 question: Was the car running normally before you replaced the caps? If so, did you do ANYTHING else besides replace the caps? If not... you must have done something wrong. Triple-check all of the wiring to verify you have the correct numbers at each terminal, etc. If you did anything else, that work is also suspect.
You can check fault codes with a blinker box, details are in the stickies in the De-Coding subforum here. However, if the problem is secondary ignition, there won't be any fault codes. Live data from SDS would be very helpful as this will show which specific cylinders, if any, are misfiring.
whats the right number of wires from spark plug to caps can u send the diagram
also here is another video
also here is another video
Although it's not causing your oscillating idle, you should replace that MAF wire screen with a new one, p/n 000-090-01-45. Still available new. The mesh helps smooth out airflow before passing over the hot wire inside the MAF.
Photos of ignition wire routing are here, make sure the wire routing on your engine match what's shown:
www.500eboard.co
Photos of ignition wire routing are here, make sure the wire routing on your engine match what's shown:
500E - Proper ignition wire setup for M119 | M119 Engine
Hi can somone help me with setup for ignition wire for my engine Mercedes E500 1994 I have changed plugs Wires I must check out the wires is on right place I think is a misfire on one of the sylinder
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There are four wires (one for each cylinder) that go from each distributor cap to the spark plugs on that cylinder bank. And then, there is a single wire in the center of each cap, that goes to one of the coils, which are located behind the driver's side headlight, under the tandem pump.
i just got the spark plugs wires in the right order it was in the right order besides that what are the chances ill need to change the throttle body with maf sensor and ignition coils.
one more thing where can i get the vacuum hoses and the breather one.
Thank you
one more thing where can i get the vacuum hoses and the breather one.
Thank you
If the car was running perfectly before you replaced the caps (you never answered this question!) you need to figure out what you touched that caused this. Also - you could try reinstalling the old caps (only change 1 side at a time) to see if the problem goes away. I've seen defective new caps out of the box, it's rare, but it can happen.
Throttle body shouldn't cause the problem shown in the video, unless it's only an idle problem (and runs perfectly except with no throttle input). Disconnect the MAF temporarily to test if it's bad, if the engine runs great with the MAF disconnected, but terrible when connected, the MAF is likely bad.
Order new vacuum tubing from the dealer or an aftermarket parts vendors, it's 4mm OD / 1mm ID Tecalan. Details here.
PCV hoses, buy only from the dealer, the aftermarket stuff won't last. Part numbers here.
Throttle body shouldn't cause the problem shown in the video, unless it's only an idle problem (and runs perfectly except with no throttle input). Disconnect the MAF temporarily to test if it's bad, if the engine runs great with the MAF disconnected, but terrible when connected, the MAF is likely bad.
Order new vacuum tubing from the dealer or an aftermarket parts vendors, it's 4mm OD / 1mm ID Tecalan. Details here.
PCV hoses, buy only from the dealer, the aftermarket stuff won't last. Part numbers here.
it was just cranking not firing up
sorry gsxr for not responding
is there a way to reset codes without a reader
at 1.5k rpm it runs smooth
ill disconnect the maf sensor brb
Here the video of me disconnecting it much improvements but still bit of miss fire when i say imporvements i mean the car doesnt kill itself.
Here is the video
Here is the video
OK - did you just buy this car and it wouldn't start? Or had you been driving it, running normally, then after installing new caps it wouldn't start?
No, but this doesn't matter. Fault codes won't cause bad running. It will just keep all codes in memory until manually cleared.
If running smoothly at higher RPM, firing on all 8 cylinders, your wire routing is good. However a defective cap can cause a misfire at idle (just not with the oscillation or engine shutoff seen in your video).
In that video, at idle it sounds like 1 distributor or coil isn't firing (or, the EZL has failed). As noted in your video, you might also have 1 or more bad plugs, pull all 8 to inspect. Make sure they are non-resistor plugs, F8DC4 or equivalent.
Try disconnecting one coil (or cap) at a time and see if it starts & runs the same way. If you have a bad cap or coil, there will be NO change when you disconnect the bad cap/coil... and the engine won't start at all when you disconnect the good cap/coil.
it was running fine before after some time i noted there was missfiring starting not the ones now but slowly i saw
gsxr i think ik which side is giving the issue its left side passenger.
when i changed the the caps
i noticed the rotor on the left side with alittle rust like just surface rust could that be a reason
also where can i find a ezl
thank you
gsxr i think ik which side is giving the issue its left side passenger.
when i changed the the caps
i noticed the rotor on the left side with alittle rust like just surface rust could that be a reason
also where can i find a ezl
thank you
ill update u on that , coil also ill have to only disconnect it from the caps right
Yup, doesn't matter which end of the coil wire you unplug. Probably easier to unplug at the cap.
ill update you tomorrow gsxr i swear i dont know what ill do without thank you
Update video is here 
Good work! This means 1 of several possibilities, listed in order of probability below:
1 - Defective passenger side distributor cap (remember, new parts can be defective!)
2 - Defective passenger side wire to coil (or, bad connection at the coil)
3 - Defective EZL
4 - Defective passenger side ignition coil
Start by swapping in an OLD cap to the passenger side, see what happens.
1 - Defective passenger side distributor cap (remember, new parts can be defective!)
2 - Defective passenger side wire to coil (or, bad connection at the coil)
3 - Defective EZL
4 - Defective passenger side ignition coil
Start by swapping in an OLD cap to the passenger side, see what happens.
i can try to do the cap right now ill update you
is there a form where i can see how to pull out or see the coil packs behind the driver side headlight thank you
i read the form tomorrow ill do it ima scream in german at this why did they place it there lol
Because there basically was no other place in the entire engine compartment to put the coils.i read the form tomorrow ill do it ima scream in german at this why did they place it there lol
No that means the caps are good i cant lie the coil pack job has changed me i never had this much pain in my hands , my hands are numb from the cuts and 30 year old dust and oil on my hand here is the video of me removing it also where can i find a MAF sensor.
Replacing the coils with the headlight in place is a nightmare. You are right, we weren't joking! 
Just pull the headlight next time, it's SO much easier. Since you have them both out, install 2 new ones. They are not the same part number. Search the forum for part numbers & vendors. Get Bosch only. While the coils are disconnected, also measure the wire resistance (the wire from coil to cap). Make sure both wires are near zero ohms.
As mentioned previously, coil failures are quite rare. If you replace both coils and there's no change... it's pretty likely to be a failed EZL. Unfortunately it's not possible to easily test the EZL, if you don't have SDS, you'd need to borrow a good used EZL (must be from a 4.2L engine) to try out.
Smart move ditching the HID's. Look for quality LED bulbs that have an accurate light pattern (more info here).
MAF is the round thingy under the center of the airbox with the ripped metal screen. Yours isn't necessarily bad though. Can't test them without an SDS to view live data. MAF's are NLA, only option is to buy a used one and hope it's good.
Just pull the headlight next time, it's SO much easier. Since you have them both out, install 2 new ones. They are not the same part number. Search the forum for part numbers & vendors. Get Bosch only. While the coils are disconnected, also measure the wire resistance (the wire from coil to cap). Make sure both wires are near zero ohms. As mentioned previously, coil failures are quite rare. If you replace both coils and there's no change... it's pretty likely to be a failed EZL. Unfortunately it's not possible to easily test the EZL, if you don't have SDS, you'd need to borrow a good used EZL (must be from a 4.2L engine) to try out.
Smart move ditching the HID's. Look for quality LED bulbs that have an accurate light pattern (more info here).
MAF is the round thingy under the center of the airbox with the ripped metal screen. Yours isn't necessarily bad though. Can't test them without an SDS to view live data. MAF's are NLA, only option is to buy a used one and hope it's good.
BTW - in over 20 years of M119 ownership, and at least a dozen different M119.97x vehicles, I've not once experienced an ignition coil failure. I'm not sure if anyone on the forum has reported coil failures either. The coils are robust and rarely fail.
EZL's, OTOH... there have been multiple reports of failed EZL's. It's not common though. I've never had an EZL failure on my personal vehicles.
EZL's, OTOH... there have been multiple reports of failed EZL's. It's not common though. I've never had an EZL failure on my personal vehicles.
I did have a dowel pin break which lead to a misfire and a actual fire! I have not read all of the above but have you checked the dowel pin... or is this a ME car? A bad dowel pin can lead to a rotor mis-alignment and a misfire.
well never mind... I just saw "coil pack"...
well never mind... I just saw "coil pack"...
And a lot of those failure are from not putting the correct paste on the back of the EZL in my experience. Most do not even know to add the past or even why there is this discolored stuff on them. They short out.
Best bet is to change them and check also where can i find a 4.2L EZL.Replacing the coils with the headlight in place is a nightmare. You are right, we weren't joking!
As mentioned previously, coil failures are quite rare. If you replace both coils and there's no change... it's pretty likely to be a failed EZL. Unfortunately it's not possible to easily test the EZL, if you don't have SDS, you'd need to borrow a good used EZL (must be from a 4.2L engine) to try out.
Smart move ditching the HID's. Look for quality LED bulbs that have an accurate light pattern (more info here).
MAF is the round thingy under the center of the airbox with the ripped metal screen. Yours isn't necessarily bad though. Can't test them without an SDS to view live data. MAF's are NLA, only option is to buy a used one and hope it's good.
Also note i live in middle east where sand can find its way in anything and anyone
One more thing what type of paste does the ezl use at the bottom?
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