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m119 misfire still there after the distributor changed

Everything you need to know is available if you search... 😉


:mushroom:
 
OD is correct, but that is flexible tubing, not rigid. That stuff won't insert into rubber hoses.

The correct Tecalan tubing should be available locally at a reasonable price. This will not affect your misfire and will not cure the hard starting either.

:klink:
 
OD is correct, but that is flexible tubing, not rigid. That stuff won't insert into rubber hoses.

The correct Tecalan tubing should be available locally at a reasonable price. This will not affect your misfire and will not cure the hard starting either.

:klink:
ill have look at my local hardare store and after changing the coil pack and if there isnt any change ill buy this EZL
4.2L EZL
 
Best bet is to change them and check also where can i find a 4.2L EZL.
Also note i live in middle east where sand can find its way in anything and anyone :hide1:
One more thing what type of paste does the ezl use at the bottom?
I will try and remember to take a pic of it in the morning... unless someone has a better memory of the name.
 
Ok- catching up here: are we talking about coil packs or the twin horizontal ignition coil that came factory to your model year?
If it is the latter:
The horizontal distributor is held in place by a dowl pin. It is a small pin like metal dowel. If it is not in place, if it is loose at all it will cause the symptoms you describe. Come to think of it I didn't check mine the last time I pulled my caps- better do that next as well. The part is very inexpensive but again- the time with pulling the ignition cap and rotor off.

I'll set myself a reminder about the paste picture for you. You will want to scrape the brownish paste remnant off the ezl before applying new.

BTW: I lived in Las Vegas (also a desert) and some of the desert in your car can very easily cause a short. I do not know the situation there for you but a dry ice pressure washer will get most of that off. Given that it is a desert you should prepare to check and replace most plastic and rubber fittings. Know that sand can short a cars electrical as well.
 
Ok- catching up here: are we talking about coil packs or the twin horizontal ignition coil that came factory to your model year?
If it is the latter:
The horizontal distributor is held in place by a dowl pin. It is a small pin like metal dowel. If it is not in place, if it is loose at all it will cause the symptoms you describe. Come to think of it I didn't check mine the last time I pulled my caps- better do that next as well. The part is very inexpensive but again- the time with pulling the ignition cap and rotor off.

I'll set myself a reminder about the paste picture for you. You will want to scrape the brownish paste remnant off the ezl before applying new.

BTW: I lived in Las Vegas (also a desert) and some of the desert in your car can very easily cause a short. I do not know the situation there for you but a dry ice pressure washer will get most of that off. Given that it is a desert you should prepare to check and replace most plastic and rubber fittings. Know that sand can short a cars electrical as well.
I already found them in my local bosch has them very surprised btw :jono:
here is the pdf of what i am getting for eletric things 👇

Also can you provide a pic of what you just mentioned
"The horizontal distributor is held in place by a dowl pin. It is a small pin like metal dowel. If it is not in place, if it is loose at all it will cause the symptoms you describe."

Here also video of me finding where that EZL hose goes to as requested by @Oldcar.

 

Attachments

Also can you provide a pic of what you just mentioned
"The horizontal distributor is held in place by a dowl pin. It is a small pin like metal dowel. If it is not in place, if it is loose at all it will cause the symptoms you describe."
 
I already found them in my local bosch has them very surprised btw :jono:
here is the pdf of what i am getting for eletric things 👇
Your PDF shows qty 2 of the same coil part number. This is incorrect... the 2 coils are not the same. See EPC screenshot below. If you are only replacing 1 (I'd replace both since you have them both out!), make sure you are getting the correct part number.

1744563576366.png

1744563291836.png



Here also video of me finding where that EZL hose goes to as requested by @Oldcar.
The tube to the EZL goes to the very back of the intake manifold, on the LOWER half. You can't see this without a mirror. The tube threads through the center of the intake manifold next to the MAF. You can't replace this tube without removing the MAF. If your MAF has an old, or original, rubber boot... that will need replacement too. Details and part numbers are here. You can check if the tube is good with the engine running, you can feel vacuum at the end of the rubber hose. Normally the engine RPM at idle will vary up/down when you disconnect / reconnect the hose at the EZL but since your engine isn't running on 8 cylinders, this test might not be valid.

The EZL is available new, $1570 USD list price in USA, about $1100 from discount dealers. No idea what pricing is in Bahrain. With no way to test your old one OR a used one off eBay, it's a bit tough to troubleshoot. The EZL's don't just fail on a hot day, but new thermal paste is generally a good idea whether you replace it or not. Install new coils AND double check both coil high-voltage wires (to each cap), before you buy an EZL.

Your MAF may not need replacement, as mentioned earlier in this thread... and they are NLA so you can only get used ones, and hope they are good. Most sellers don't test them because they don't have an SDS, and also don't know what normal values are when looking at live data. Your MAF does need a new screen though. Part number at the link above.

:cel:
 
Your PDF shows qty 2 of the same coil part number. This is incorrect... the 2 coils are not the same. See EPC screenshot below. If you are only replacing 1 (I'd replace both since you have them both out!), make sure you are getting the correct part number.

View attachment 211611

View attachment 211610




The tube to the EZL goes to the very back of the intake manifold, on the LOWER half. You can't see this without a mirror. The tube threads through the center of the intake manifold next to the MAF. You can't replace this tube without removing the MAF. If your MAF has an old, or original, rubber boot... that will need replacement too. Details and part numbers are here. You can check if the tube is good with the engine running, you can feel vacuum at the end of the rubber hose. Normally the engine RPM at idle will vary up/down when you disconnect / reconnect the hose at the EZL but since your engine isn't running on 8 cylinders, this test might not be valid.

The EZL is available new, $1570 USD list price in USA, about $1100 from discount dealers. No idea what pricing is in Bahrain. With no way to test your old one OR a used one off eBay, it's a bit tough to troubleshoot. The EZL's don't just fail on a hot day, but new thermal paste is generally a good idea whether you replace it or not. Install new coils AND double check both coil high-voltage wires (to each cap), before you buy an EZL.

Your MAF may not need replacement, as mentioned earlier in this thread... and they are NLA so you can only get used ones, and hope they are good. Most sellers don't test them because they don't have an SDS, and also don't know what normal values are when looking at live data. Your MAF does need a new screen though. Part number at the link above.

:cel:
that pretty expensive.Can you send me the right part numbers for the coil packs i cant find them on mine and ill check the ezl hose out
ill update you in few hours.
 
Damn you GSXR! Reading the pdf I now (because it's been a minute since i changed them) can't remember if the part numbers were different on the ignition coil! Bawahaha But thank you! Thanks for the WIS!

Post script:

Come to think of it I have never changed my coils but now I will be checking the part number because who knows what POs do?! Even the parts stores ask "left or right?"!
 
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Think he means in the EZL?
Yeah, I'm not sure what he meant. And, a vacuum line broken or disconnected will not cause the engine to run on 4 cylinders, and won't prevent the engine from starting. Definitely should check all vac lines and replace them on principle, but it's a red herring with the current problems.

:hornets:
 
Best bet is to change them and check also where can i find a 4.2L EZL.
Also note i live in middle east where sand can find its way in anything and anyone :hide1:
One more thing what type of paste does the ezl use at the bottom?
Motorhead,
With more than 200k
Miles on M119 I replaced coils and noticed a significant improvement in
Power ...I figured if one was bad why not replace both. If your wires are right you may be there with the coils...did you change them and run it yet?
 
Motorhead,
With more than 200k
Miles on M119 I replaced coils and noticed a significant improvement in
Power ...I figured if one was bad why not replace both. If your wires are right you may be there with the coils...did you change them and run it yet?
Nah not yet and my m119 only has 69k miles its thee middle east that caused this much issues. I am going to change both and try to get new coil wires any new spark plug wire any suggestions?
 
Last edited:
Have a helper with you and remove both coil wires from the caps. hang them in an area that they will be free of metal but visible to you as you stand in front of the car. Turn off the shop lights, have the helper start the engine. If they both light up - your coils work. If one doesn't light up, swap the wires over to the opposite coil and repeat the test. If the same coil fails to spark the light in the dark, you now for certain the coil is bad.
 
Have a helper with you and remove both coil wires from the caps. hang them in an area that they will be free of metal but visible to you as you stand in front of the car. Turn off the shop lights, have the helper start the engine. If they both light up - your coils work. If one doesn't light up, swap the wires over to the opposite coil and repeat the test. If the same coil fails to spark the light in the dark, you now for certain the coil is bad.
done that ik which one isnt working
 
This problem was there before . At first i thought it was the caps but i was wrong so it has to be the coil pack or ezl .
Nah not yet and my m119 only has 69k miles its thee middle east that caused this much issues. I am going to change both and try to get new coil wires any new spark plug wire any suggestions?
Look at top of cap it has plug wire numbered sequence for both distributors.Land R
Each cap has wires that go to Both sides of the v 8 engine....
 
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