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m119 misfire still there after the distributor changed

Hey
Well i dont know what to sell it for..i see they vary alot on ebay...but to be honest,,i dont want to bother selling it if i do not get an offer that makes it worthwhile..dealing with sending it etc etc.
if you offer a good deal for both of us im happy to take it off your hands how does 200 bucks sound with shipping
 
if you offer a good deal for both of us im happy to take it off your hands how does 200 bucks sound with shipping
Thank you for offer..but that is " not" a good enough offer for me to bother packing,and including shipping and getting rid of the part.So i think you are better of finding one on ebay :)
 
The tube to the EZL goes to the very back of the intake manifold, on the LOWER half. You can't see this without a mirror. The tube threads through the center of the intake manifold next to the MAF. You can't replace this tube without removing the MAF. If your MAF has an old, or original, rubber boot... that will need replacement too. Details and part numbers are here. You can check if the tube is good with the engine running, you can feel vacuum at the end of the rubber hose. Normally the engine RPM at idle will vary up/down when you disconnect / reconnect the hose at the EZL but since your engine isn't running on 8 cylinders, this test might not be valid.
Thanks for the excellent info and picture! :)
Your MAF may not need replacement, as mentioned earlier in this thread... and they are NLA so you can only get used ones, and hope they are good. Most sellers don't test them because they don't have an SDS, and also don't know what normal values are when looking at live data.
You mentioned testing the MAF via SDS - how? There is only the airflow value in the LH module. Could you please explain? I'm sure there is some documentation in WIS? Might help me troubleshoot my problem. BTW, if anyone needs a new MAF, I've got two NOS in stock - one can go, but it's not cheap.
 
You mentioned testing the MAF via SDS - how? There is only the airflow value in the LH module. Could you please explain? I'm sure there is some documentation in WIS? Might help me troubleshoot my problem. BTW, if anyone needs a new MAF, I've got two NOS in stock - one can go, but it's not cheap.

:matrix:
 
Ya know- this reminds me of something that happened back in 2001.

I was working on my 1984 VW Jetta. When I put it back together there was a no-start situation. My Dad was a master ASE Toyota specialist in every category. I called him. He simply asked, "What was the last thing you did before it stopped running." I told him and he said, "Go back to that point."

Chances are you put the cap on wrong or did something to effect the firing order.
 
Ya know- this reminds me of something that happened back in 2001.

I was working on my 1984 VW Jetta. When I put it back together there was a no-start situation. My Dad was a master ASE Toyota specialist in every category. I called him. He simply asked, "What was the last thing you did before it stopped running." I told him and he said, "Go back to that point."

Chances are you put the cap on wrong or did something to effect the firing order.
this problem started before the caps
 
Wire test today: All wires within spec at about 2k Ohms. I do not know the spec for the ignition wire but the reading was not consistent.
 
The plug boots are 2k ohm spec, ±20% or so. Typical readings are between 1600-2400 ohms. The wires are stranded copper and are zero ohms, if separated from the plug boots (don't do this).

Bad boots will measure like 5k to 20k ohms, or higher.

:shocking:
 
So what was it that was specific to the L or R side? The coil?
Yes. The coils are unique (specific L / R) due to different mounting positions. Electrically, they are identical.


Does SDS tell if there is a bad CPS? Other electronics?? Ignition?
Fault codes will be stored if a sensor is not recognized (e.g., disconnected) or with certain other abnormal behavior. Some anomalies are only visible on live data, for example voltage spikes indicating a misfire... you can see this on live data in real time as the misfire occurs, but no fault code is stored. Makes it fun diagnosing things.

:pc1:
 
GSXR- it occurred to me...

Does not restart when warm.
Coolant light comes on.
Temp gauge reads warmer than usual.

My problem could be a coolant sensor could it not?

I disconnected and cleaned all ignition wires, caps etc.. I found rust on No. 8 plug wire at the plug. Cleaned that out. I found one wire not good after testing for resistance. (No French please!)
I reconnected all today after sitting for several days. Battery was disconnected during that time as well.

The car started immediately. I turned it off and it restarted. But after letting it run for 5 minutes it would not then restart. :lolhit::sniper:
 
It's unlikely that a coolant temperature sensor would cause a no-restart when warm. Coolant level sensor definitely won't do this.

Top items for no restart when warm are crank sensor and moisture (condensation) in the distributors, even if they are brand new or cleaned right before the cold start.

:mushroom:
 
:update:

I have found a huge crack on the throttle body breather pipes and its good time to see and clean the throttle body.
Also im still trying to find a ezl :yayo:

Coils packs will come by end of june.

Here are parts that ill need for the work besides the throttle body cleaner and silicon 👇

1748847192743.png
 
update i changed the breather hoses and spark plugs gapped to 1.00mm
Any improvement?

only two spark plugs i couldnt chaange due to those plugs being busted
How were the plugs broken?


Some other stuff:

There is no issue removing the ETA (throttle body), other than it's not easy to wiggle in/out of the manifold, and if it's an old datecode (1992-95) with biodegradable insulation, the wiring could be damaged when you bend the cable. There is no re-learn / re-tech procedure.

It still sounds like the engine isn't firing on all 8 cylinders, but it's hard to tell for sure.

Backfiring indicates a MISFIRE. Period. More specifically, a cylinder/plug firing when it should not. This is almost always an issue with a cap and/or rotor, where the spark goes to the wrong cylinder.

Backfiring will not necessarily kill the MAF. The only way to conclusively prove if the MAF is good or bad, is to view live data from SDS / HHT-Win. Anything else is pure speculation.

Finally - at least one of your fuel injectors is not seated properly. Check all of them. The electrical connector should be in parallel / lined up with the fuel rail pipe. In the photo below, this injector is rotated something like 75° away from normal position. This should not be possible, as the metal spring clip which holds the injector is "keyed" to only fit with the injector rotated correctly. This is NOT causing your running problems, but you should rotate the injectors as needed so they line up correctly.

1749820246030.png
 
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