Need part numbers for All Upper Engine PCV/Breather Hoses

[TerryA]

Moderator edit: See link in post #3 below for the part list, or click here.

OK, I have been procrastinating long enough. It’s time to get the ball rolling with a little help from my friends.

I recently purchased a set of aluminum Oiler Tubes from speedy300D and have had a brand new upper harness in my possession for about 14 years. It’s time to install this stuff. I want to do this only once so here is what I think I need to complete the job for my 93 500E engine.

MB Part numbers for:

1. All of the smog and vacuum hoses on top of the engine. I believe Dave has mentioned it’s a packaged kit.

2. MB valve cover Gaskets

3. MB chain rail guides that I can change with the valve covers off.

Anything else while I have the valve covers off?

Order from online?

Note, I may use Tom Hanson

Thanks for your help.

 

[LWB250]

Maybe Dave’s Uncle Ken makes a kit for the M119 breather hoses, but Mercedes doesn’t. I know because I just ordered a set for my 97 R129 which uses the M119 from my dealer. They keep a list handy for these as there is no “kit”.

There are also slight differences in the various M119 models with different hose configurations, so it’s not necessarily a “one size fits all” sort of thing.

I also highly recommend that you order the hose barb connectors used to join the various hose fittings as well, as the original ones are usually so brittle they shatter when you attempt to remove them. They’re not expensive and won’t add significantly to the total. Expect the full set of hoses and fittings to be around $200.

Dan

 

[gsxr]

Breather tube part numbers are in the post lined below - you have to order everything separately:

PCV breather hose replacement - Part numbers | M119 Engine

Hi, I noticed this weekend a hose on the driver's side next to the wires at the front is seeping (see pictures). Seems like a very easy replacement of an old, saturated breather hose. I checked epc for the part, but I can't find it anywhere - the closest thing was in the "Major Engine...

www.500eboard.co

I don't know of any vendor that sells a kit with all OE parts.

Valve cover gaskets are 119-010-13-30 and 119-010-14-30. You may want to order the copper washers (007603-006106) via aftermarket; MB wants $1.50 list each, they are ~30 cents via aftermarket (18 required, get a couple extra in case you drop them).

Chain rails, depends how deep you want to go...

 

[TerryA]

Dan,

Thanks for the info. I want every part that is rubber or plastic. But first I’ll need the part numbers.

lol

 

[TerryA]

Dave,

Thanks for the info. I’ll have to print the PDFs to understand the layout. As far as the chain rails go I only want to change what’s accessible with the valve cover off. Is that maybe 2 or 3?

 

[luckymike]

Terry, I wound up with the following extra PCV hoses after doing mine:

1 1190942782
4 1179901578
1 1190940312
1 1190944082
1 1190942682
1 1190942882
1 1190943182

These are brand new MB parts. Let me know if you're interested. I'll sell them for half price plus shipping from 94070.

 

[nocfn]

Lastly, you need the proper squibly wobbly sockets and extensions to get at the back VC bolt. NO goop on that valve cover gasket either! may want to consider the PS seperator while you are there.

 

[TerryA]

Lastly, you need the proper squibly wobbly sockets and extensions to get at the back VC bolt. NO goop on that valve cover gasket either! may want to consider the PS seperator while you are there.

Hi Lewis,

I think I have the wobbly sockets. If not I will be sure to get.

 

[TerryA]

Terry, I wound up with the following extra PCV hoses after doing mine:

1 1190942782
4 1179901578
1 1190940312
1 1190944082
1 1190942682
1 1190942882
1 1190943182

These are brand new MB parts. Let me know if you're interested. I'll sell them for half price plus shipping from 94070.

How come left over? Let me get my head around this and I will let you know.

 

[luckymike]

There was some shipping confusion and my supplier sent some dupes then didn't want them back.

 

[nocfn]

Lastly just follow the HOW TO by GVZ. It is spot on and this is a level 3 job with the proper tools and a working torque wrench. Do one cylinder at a time, be sure your fender is protected from scratching and get it done!

 

[TerryA]

Breather tube part numbers are in this post - you have to order everything separately. I don't know if any vendor that sells a kit with all OE parts:
https://www.500eboard.co/forums/index.php?threads/pcv-breather-hose-replacement-part-numbers.1466/

Valve cover gaskets are 119-010-13-30 and 119-010-14-30. You may want to order the copper washers (007603-006106) via aftermarket; MB wants $1.50 list each, they are ~30 cents via aftermarket (18 required, get a couple extra in case you drop them).

Chain rails, depends how deep you want to go...

Dave,

I started to check out the PDF you refer to above. I was checking part numbers with LuckyMike's offer. I ran into a problem with the breather hoses #137 & #140 VS #144. I then noticed that the numbered picture in the PDF is for an E500. I have a 500E my VIN is WDBEA7PB987135. I have never seen a data card for my car so I don't know the engine number.

Anyway everything LuckyMike has for sale checks out except he has part number 1190943182 which is hose #140 in the pic which lists 2 part numbers that are superceded by other numbers. OR should I be looking at part #144 in the pic.

In the EPC is there a picture and list for the earlier 500E?

I'd appreciate any help you can offer.

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[gsxr]

Terry, for callout #140... the old p/n was 119-094-43-82, this was replaced by 119-094-55-82 (and also 119-094-62-82, which was replaced by 119-094-71-82). The trick is to look at the quantity column; for each callout, only 1 part number has Qty=1. This indicates the current, orderable part number.

Apparently, some very early build cars may have used the older part numbers, which may have had some minor difference in shape or length. Since you are replacing all of them at the same time, it's nothing to worry about. And, your VIN is a late 1993 build, the "early" engines referenced here would be in 1991-1992 timeframe.

BTW, your engine number is #8011, this is a closed-deck block with the late-style coolant drains - best of both worlds! Click link below to view the datacard:
https://www.datamb.com/vin/xNb8kEQx8V0dRZ4yo

 

[TerryA]

Terry, for callout #140... the old p/n was 119-094-43-82, this was replaced by 119-094-55-82 (and also 119-094-62-82, which was replaced by 119-094-71-82). The trick is to look at the quantity column; for each callout, only 1 part number has Qty=1. This indicates the current, orderable part number.

Apparently, some very early build cars may have used the older part numbers, which may have had some minor difference in shape or length. Since you are replacing all of them at the same time, it's nothing to worry about. And, your VIN is a late 1993 build, the "early" engines referenced here would be in 1991-1992 timeframe.

BTW, your engine number is #8011, this is a closed-deck block with the late-style coolant drains - best of both worlds! Click link below to view the datacard:
https://www.datamb.com/vin/xNb8kEQx8V0dRZ4yo

Dave,

Still have a lingering question.

In checking out the PDF you reference https://www.500eboard.co/forums/index.php?threads/pcv-breather-hose-replacement-part-numbers.1466/.
The breather hoses part #137 combines with part #140 >>>>VS>>>> part #144 showing a single made up hose. Which one is right? The 2 part hose or the single part hose?

 

[gsxr]

Terry, callout #137 has been superceded twice... originally 119-094-42-82, then 119-094-62-82, finally 119-094-71-82. There is no 1-part hose available. You need three separate large-diameter hoses to connect between the ETA and the passenger side valve cover:

#143 = 119-094-44-82 (no supercessions, so this one is easy)
#140 = 119-094-55-82 (superceded once)
#137 = 119-094-71-82 (superceded twice)
#102 = 102-094-02-12 (plastic connector, 2 required)
#155 = 117-997-01-90 (hose clamp, optional, but cheap insurance)

See attached screen shot. Note that part numbers with a dash (-) in the Quantity column can be ignored. You may have to remove the ETA to replace #143, because it's extremely difficult to replace without pulling the ETA. You must pull the MAF either way.

 

[TerryA]

Dave,

I get your explanation above and will probably buy the ETA hose #143. If I can't do it I try and get will get Matt Stockwell at Leistung Autohaus to do it. I watched him remove the ETA one day looks like a PITA job.

My confusion lies with the two (2) hoses that I have circled in the attached PDF. #126 & #144. They are shown in the parts picture but NO PART NUMBERS. Are they not part of the manifold hoses. If not what are they for? Will I need them also.

I do not want to buy anything that I don't have to.

Thanks for your help Dave.

 

[gsxr]

Terry, both #126 and #144 are grayed out in the EPC, which means they are not applicable to this year/model. Note there are no part numbers listed for #126 and #144.

You don't need #126 because numbers 125+122 take its place (along with connector 119).

And, you don't need #144 because numbers 127+140+143 take its place (along with 2 of connector 116).

Confused yet?

 

[TerryA]

Confused yet?

Got it!!

Not confused anymore. It just looked like either/ or on those two hoses.

Thanks for the help.

 

[TerryA]

OK, I have been procrastinating long enough. It’s time to get the ball rolling with a little help from my friends.

I recently purchased a set of aluminum Oiler Tubes from speedy300D and have had a brand new upper harness in my possession for about 14 years. It’s time to install this stuff. I want to do this only once so here is what I think I need to complete the job for my 93 500E engine.

MB Part numbers for:

1. All of the smog and vacuum hoses on top of the engine. I believe Dave has mentioned it’s a packaged kit.

2. MB valve cover Gaskets

3. MB chain rail guides that I can change with the valve covers off.

Anything else while I have the valve covers off?

Order from online?

Note, I may use Tom Hanson

Thanks for your help.

Guys,

I'm looking for a few more part numbers:

1. ETA Gasket/ Seal, I will probably need to remove the
ETA to get the hose off that's buried behind it.
I will try lowman's video way first.

2. Louis mentions the oil separator. Think it's in
the passenger side valve cover?

3. The shortened bolt for attaching the ACM fan clutch.

Any help is appreciated.

 

[IslandMon]

2. Louis mentions the oil separator. Think it's in
the passenger side valve cover?

Here are the part numbers that Lowman provided in another thread:

A1190100062 - Plastic oil separator​

​

A1190160181 - Rubber funnel mounted on top of the separator valve​

Under the passenger side valve cover.

 

[TerryA]

Here are the part numbers that Lowman provided in another thread:

Thanks IslandMon,

Every bit helps. Before I tear into the top of the engine I want all of the parts on hand.

Right now awaiting luckymike’s PVC hoses to arrive (maybe today) so I can verify what hoses are left to purchase. I want to get all of the stuff on one order if possible.

Stay Tuned

 

[Hakie]

Guys,

I'm looking for a few more part numbers:

1. ETA Gasket/ Seal, I will probably need to remove the
ETA to get the hose off that's buried behind it.
I will try lowman's video way first.

2. Louis mentions the oil separator. Think it's in
the passenger side valve cover?

3. The shortened bolt for attaching the ACM fan clutch.

Any help is appreciated.

I did the ETA a few weeks back and had this parts from the dealer:

Gasket A119 141 1280. +/- $2.00 (i bought 2, 1 spare)
Rubber boot (connection ETA-MAF best to Install new) A119 141 0167 +/- $15.00
2x clamp A006 997 1435 (but you might re-use old clamps) +/- $4.00

In my notes the short bolt is p/n 000912-010222 (somewhere in a thread).

 

[TerryA]

I did the ETA a few weeks back and had this parts from the dealer:

Gasket A119 141 1280. +/- $2.00 (i bought 2, 1 spare)
Rubber boot (connection ETA-MAF best to Install new) A119 141 0167 +/- $15.00
2x clamp A006 997 1435 (but you might re-use old clamps) +/- $4.00

In my notes the short bolt is p/n 000912-010222 (somewhere in a thread).

Thanks Hakie

Much appreciated

 

[TerryA]

Question on the Oil Seperator Valve
Part # A119 0100062

Is this part metal or plastic?

If it is not damaged does it need to be replaced?

OR replace only the rubber funnel?
Part #A 119 0160181

 

[IslandMon]

Question on the Oil Seperator Valve
Part # A119 0100062

Is this part metal or plastic?

If it is not damaged does it need to be replaced?

OR replace only the rubber funnel?
Part #A 119 0160181

The valve is plastic and prone to getting brittle. Mine was gone completely so I wouldn’t know. I replaced both pieces

 

[TerryA]

The valve is plastic and prone to getting brittle. Mine was gone completely so I wouldn’t know. I replaced both pieces

IslandMon,

You answered my question perfectly. It’s plastic!! You knew enough to replace it.

It’s a 25 year old plastic part and should be replaced and I will be doing so.

Many Thanks

Thanks

 

[TerryA]

Breather tube part numbers are in this post - you have to order everything separately. I don't know if any vendor that sells a kit with all OE parts:
https://www.500eboard.co/forums/index.php?threads/pcv-breather-hose-replacement-part-numbers.1466/

Valve cover gaskets are 119-010-13-30 and 119-010-14-30. You may want to order the copper washers (007603-006106) via aftermarket; MB wants $1.50 list each, they are ~30 cents via aftermarket (18 required, get a couple extra in case you drop them).

Chain rails, depends how deep you want to go...

Dave,

Valve cover gasket part #119-010-14-30 does not fit my 93 500E according to MBoemparts.com.
It refers back to the other part#119-010-13-30

Question: Are BOTH valve covers the same size? Meaning the 13 number fits both sides.

Anyway that’s what I’m assuming.

Can you confirm?

Thanks

 

[gsxr]

Valve cover gasket part #119-010-14-30 does not fit my 93 500E according to MBoemparts.com.
It refers back to the other part # 119-010-13-30

Question: Are BOTH valve covers the same size? Meaning the 13 number fits both sides.

Terry, where does MBOEM show #14 referring back to #13? They are NOT the same, each side uses a different p/n. Never, ever trust the dealer part ordering websites for fitment information! The EPC is the only accurate source. Screen shot attached.

Their website is vague and just says "all 500" for the #14, but again, just ignore fitment info shown on those sites. And, their info is wrong, these gaskets only fit 1990-95 (USA model years). 96-up use different gasket kits. When you click "Make sure this part fits your car"... don't do that. The same applies to EVERY part vendor, OE and aftermarket. Their catalogs are guidelines, not gospel.

 

[TerryA]

Terry, where does MBOEM show #14 referring back to #13? They are NOT the same, each side uses a different p/n. Never, ever trust the dealer part ordering websites for fitment information! The EPC is the only accurate source. Screen shot attached.

Their website is vague and just says "all 500" for the #14, but again, just ignore fitment info shown on those sites. And, their info is wrong, these gaskets only fit 1990-95 (USA model years). 96-up use different gasket kits. When you click "Make sure this part fits your car"... don't do that. The same applies to EVERY part vendor, OE and aftermarket. Their catalogs are guidelines, not gospel.

Dave,

When I entered the 14 part number the site warned me that the part does not fit my 500E and listed about 18 other applications for the 14 gasket.

Thanks for clearing that up. I’m trying to follow your lead as much as possible.

By the “Grace of God” I couldn’t complete my order on Friday OR I would have ordered two of the 13s. I will correct my order on Monday.

Thanks Again Dave

PS: FYI, Site wouldn’t process my payment after hours for some reason. This is my first purchase from the new Naperville site and they are treating me like a new customer. I bought all of my suspension parts and lots of other stuff from them a few years back.

 

[TerryA]

Dave,

I get your explanation above and will probably buy the ETA hose #143. If I can't do it I try and get will get Matt Stockwell at Leistung Autohaus to do it. I watched him remove the ETA one day looks like a PITA job.

My confusion lies with the two (2) hoses that I have circled in the attached PDF. #126 & #144. They are shown in the parts picture but NO PART NUMBERS. Are they not part of the manifold hoses. If not what are they for? Will I need them also.

I do not want to buy anything that I don't have to.

Thanks for your help Dave.

OK,

I have received my full order from MB Naperville. It was a long list. BUT in checking out the parts I have recieved two (2) WRONG PARTS.

REFER to PVC hose picture in post #16 above. Ignore the hoses circled in red. LOOK at inter hose connector #116 seen on both ends of PVC hose #140.

Anyway on the part number list #116 refers to part #A 102 094 02 12 >> Quanity 2

What arrived labeled with the the part # above was four (4) little plastic 1/2” rings ? NOT the two (2) hose connectors picture #116

I NEED THE CORRECT PART NUMBER FOR THE INTER HOSE CONNECTOR PICTURE #116

Sorry for the long explanation but I’m on an I-Phone.

 

[gsxr]

#116 = part number 102-094-02-12 which is a hose connector that is white plastic. Photo attached.

If you received something labled 102-094-02-12 that does not match the photo below, it is an error by Naperville.

 

[TerryA]

#116 = part number 102-094-02-12 which is a hose connector that is white plastic. Photo attached.

If you received something labled 102-094-02-12 that does not match the photo below, it is an error by Naperville.

View attachment 84099

Dave,

Your pic was what I expected to get. I wanted to confirm that part number before I called them.

Thanks

 

[TerryA]

Dave,

Your pic was what I expected to get. I wanted to confirm that part number before I called them.

Thanks

EDIT:

I contacted Naperville and the correct parts will be in the mail today.

Thanks Again Dave

 

[TerryA]

Another Question for the Gallery.

I have still not started on my engine top end refurbishment due to other commitments that are keeping me busy 40 hours a week. This will be ending soon and I will be having lots of free time to work on my 500E.

Anyway I believe I have all of the rubber hoses and gaskets assembled for the job but got to thinking about the VALVE SEALS.

I have changed the valve seals on my 300E early 2 valve engine and it was a pretty simple job using a cheapo valve compressor from Pep Boys and pressurizing each cylinder to hold up the valves while I removed the spring and replaced the valve seal. It been a while and I don’t remember if I removed the cam or just rotated the lobe out of the way.

The valve seals on my 500E are also rubber and 26 years old w/ 142K miles on them. Although my engine uses no oil between 5000 mile changes it just seem logical as preventative maintenance to replace these seals while I have the valve covers off.

The M119 engine has 2 cams in the way I would assume they would have to be removed. Is there a valve compressor other than a special MB Tool that isn’t to expensive that can do the job?

Any looking for info and or advice on possibly doing this as part of my upper engine DIY refurbishment.

NOBODY has bought up this subject about valve seal replacement. Is this a dumb idea? Any comments?

 

[gerryvz]

Terry,

Unlike the M103 and M117, the valve stem seals DO NOT go bad on the M104 and M119 engines. They do not need to be replaced.

Certainly it would be prudent to replace them if the heads are coming off of the car, but absolutely, 100% not necessary otherwise. The only other condition I can think of where it could make sense, would be for a high mileage engine. But even then, look at Glen's "DrP" car -- I do not believe (Glen can confirm or deny this) that it has ever had the valve stem seals replaced, even at its ~700K mileage.

The valve stem seal materials were improved on the M104 and M119 (they are NOT rubber), and the valve geometry was also improved so that the valve stems do not have the side-loading forces placed on them by the camshaft lobes like the 103 and 117 do. This side-loading essentially makes the valve guides and valve stem seals "oblong" with the valve stem passages, allowing oil to leak by with time and wear. With the M119 it is a much more direct (straight-angle, up and down) motion for the lobes acting on the valves, and valve stem + seal wear is not a factor in this engine.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,
Gerry

 

[gsxr]

Terry, if your car is using no oil between 5kmi changes... do not touch the valve stem seals.

This is a MAJOR job on the M119, very different than on the 300E with M103 engine. The proper tool is $$$$ and is designed in a way that it will not damage the lifter bore if it slips. The cheap tool can damage the lifter bore. There's a reason nobody has brought up this subject; the M119 very very very rarely needs to have these seals replaced.

Main things to check while the valve cover are off: condition of all chain rails, replace the "fingered" rails on principle even if they look ok, check condition of the rubber funnel on the passenger side (Louis already had you pick this up), install those spiffy tubes from Speedy, and don't forget to use new copper washers under all the valve cover bolts. Torque the valve cover in a criss-cross pattern, in stages (i.e., 6Nm, then 9Nm) for whatever bolts you can get a torque wrench on. For ones you can't, get them as tight as feels comfortable with 1/4" drive tools - compare to how the proper-torqued bolts feel. And of course clean the gasket sealing surfaces flawlessly on both sides. Do this job properly and you may never need to pull the covers again during your ownership.

 

[Glen]

The high miler would probably benefit from replacing the valve stem seals and one of these days I will have it done. Terry in your case, I completely agree with Gerry and Dave...if it ain’t broke don’t fix it!

 

[Eno]

Dave, are you talking about the washers on 16+2+1 total 19 valve cover bolts?
Btw what is the part # of those small copper washers?
Btw, fyi as per EPC the soft rubber seals on top of left and right “finger” plastic rails are not sold separately nor together with left and right “finger” rails, they are part of the complete gasket sets if I am not mistaken.

 

[gsxr]

Eno, the small copper washers are p/n 007603-006106 and there are 9 on each valve cover, 18 total. The bolt length may vary but they all use the same washers.

The soft rubber seals on each side, which attach to the same large plastic rail attached to the head with 2 bolts, are sold separately... but they are rather expensive. If not damaged or missing they can be re-used. They just seal the chain rail to the valve cover. They are located in an odd place in the EPC. PN's are A1190160580 and A1190160380, ~$14 USD each list price.

 

[Eno]

These are the “finger” rails and the valve cover screws as per EPC.

 

[gsxr]

Here is a photo of the part I refer to as the "fingered" rail... it clips on to the large rail shown in Eno's photos above.

This part (119-052-09-16) gets brittle and often breaks when removed, because the U-shaped "fingers" have to be bent outward to clear the tabs on the large rail it attaches to.

 

[gerryvz]

Eno,

If you are replacing the cam Oiler tubes, chain rails, chain itself or just doing a refresh, I would always want to replace the two-piece “finger” rails on each side. It is a good idea to replace the rubber inserts as well, but they (rubber seal inserts) can be re-used as long as they are in good condition. however, if you are replacing the plastic finger rails, just spend the bit of extra money and replace the rubber too. As @gsxr illustrated, they are available as separate parts with the numbers he quoted.

There is more info about this in the cam Oiler tube HOW-TO (looks like some image problems I’ll need to fix):

HOW-TO: Replacing M119 camshaft oiler tubes | "HOW-TO" Tutorial Articles

I recently was able to obtain a set of used, but good condition, metal M119 camshaft oiler tubes from a 500Eboard member. I decided to begin the installation procedure and finish it up this coming week as I get the E500 prepared for the trip to MBCA's StarTech meeting in Alabama during the...

www.500eboard.co

 

[TerryA]

Gerry, Dave &Glen,

Thanks for the prompt and direct answer. I thought it was a question worth asking. I’m glad I did.

I do agree with “if it’s not broke don’t fix it”. I don’t need to create work. There are other items that need attention that I can remove and replace.

Anyway I will be proceeding as originally planned with the upper engine work.

BTW, I did purchase both finger rails 119-052-09-16 and 119-050-09-16 along with the guides.

Thanks again Guys

 

[JC220]

Hmmm interesting timing on the subject of replacing the valve stem oil seals. I am replacing a m119 set tomorrow time permitting.

I will take photos of the process and tools used and share on the board. I anticipate the original 1992 stem seals will be hard by now and in need of replacement. Since I already have all 4 cams out it is an opportun time to renew them and forget

 

[Eno]

Eno,

If you are replacing the cam Oiler tubes, chain rails, chain itself or just doing a refresh, I would always want to replace the two-piece “finger” rails on each side. It is a good idea to replace the rubber inserts as well, but they (rubber seal inserts) can be re-used as long as they are in good condition. however, if you are replacing the plastic finger rails, just spend the bit of extra money and replace the rubber too. As @gsxr illustrated, they are available as separate parts with the numbers he quoted.

There is more info about this in the cam Oiler tube HOW-TO (looks like some image problems I’ll need to fix):

HOW-TO: Replacing M119 camshaft oiler tubes | "HOW-TO" Tutorial Articles

I recently was able to obtain a set of used, but good condition, metal M119 camshaft oiler tubes from a 500Eboard member. I decided to begin the installation procedure and finish it up this coming week as I get the E500 prepared for the trip to MBCA's StarTech meeting in Alabama during the...

www.500eboard.co

Yes Gerry, green oiler tube seals 32 pcs replaced in the 1992 Bornite 500E I am using here where I live and work until my friend is ready to ship it/take it.

Of course both valve cover gaskets, and all intake manifold seals/gaskets, injectors seals pressure/cleaning.
Basically I am doing the complete top half and bottom half of the engine with all PS and cooling hoses and oil pressure and sensor, etc.
As per the European Enginer and garage owner the valve leak test was within allowance and endoscopic test with that famous German tool Karl Storz which I was allowed to look into the piston/valve chamber, was ok for an early 00627 M119.974 engine.
Air pump plug as I am removing the air pump and putting a delete bracket.
Bottom half meaning new big oil pan gasket, rear main crank seal, new oil pan and gasket and so many other parts I can’t remember now.
The garage owner has modified an engine stand for my M119.974 with used lift arms.
I am using the car as a daily driver, it had vaccum and misfiring issues, oil leaks, fuel leaks, engine mounts and transmission parts will be replaced and so on.

 

[TerryA]

Hmmm interesting timing on the subject of replacing the valve stem oil seals. I am replacing a m119 set tomorrow time permitting.

I will take photos of the process and tools used and share on the board. I anticipate the original 1992 stem seals will be hard by now and in need of replacement. Since I already have all 4 cams out it is an opportun time to renew them and forget

Joe,

After what the Guy’s said about the seals in posts #35—#37, why would you do that? The possibility of damage was enough to stop me. Is it just the convenience of the moment?

Is the mileage higher than my 142K? A 92 engine is only 1 year older than mine. What engine are you replacing the valve seals on? Is it the salvage replacement engine for your S500?

lol

 

[TerryA]

Yes Gerry, green oiler tube seals 32 pcs replaced in the 1992 Bornite 500E I am using here where I live and work until my friend is ready to ship it/take it.

Of course both valve cover gaskets, and all intake manifold seals/gaskets, injectors seals pressure/cleaning.
Basically I am doing the complete top half and bottom half of the engine with all PS and cooling hoses and oil pressure and sensor, etc.
As per the European Enginer and garage owner the valve leak test was within allowance and endoscopic test with that famous German tool Karl Storz which I was allowed to look into the piston/valve chamber, was ok for an early 00627 M119.974 engine.
Air pump plug as I am removing the air pump and putting a delete bracket.
Bottom half meaning new big oil pan gasket, rear main crank seal, new oil pan and gasket and so many other parts I can’t remember now.
The garage owner has modified an engine stand for my M119.975 with used lift arms.
I am using the car as a daily driver, it had vaccum and misfiring issues, oil leaks, fuel leaks, engine mounts and transmission parts will be replaced and so on.

Eno,

That’s a lot of parts. I thought your rebuild was complete by now. Not so? What’s the hold up?

lol

 

[Eno]

Eno,

That’s a lot of parts. I thought your rebuild was complete by now. Not so? What’s the hold up?

lol

Hi Terry,
My 1992 Midnight Blue back home in another country is complete and all done.
This is another 1991 early production 500E in Bornite Metallic which I am currently fixing here in Qatar.

 

[JC220]

Joe,

After what the Guy’s said about the seals in posts #35—#37, why would you do that? The possibility of damage was enough to stop me. Is it just the convenience of the moment?

Is the mileage higher than my 142K? A 92 engine is only 1 year older than mine. What engine are you replacing the valve seals on? Is it the salvage replacement engine for your S500?

lol

Hi Terry, I am doing this on several fronts;

Yes it's the replacement motor that has not ran therefore I am more dubious about not replacing them.... if I "knew" the engine did not have oil smoke on startup then it would perhaps be left alone per advice here

2, I have had hardened valve stem oil seals twice on m104 engine. The one engine that is. First time the head was refurbished with all new guides and valve oil seals. Blue smoke on cold startup gone. Original stem seals were hard and worn. Then now 15 years approx later and only about 1k miles - blue smoke again. I know the valve stem oil seals have hardened so I'll have to replace them again on that engine Exact behaviour as before so I know it's the same issue.

3, I am already 90% of the way there with the hydraulic buckets looking at me.

Thus in my opinion time is now to renew mine on this replacement motor.

I have an idea for a homemade tool that will protect the hydraulic element bores. More to come

 

[JC220]

I have an idea for a homemade tool that will protect the hydraulic element bores. More to come

Thinking about renewing those 27 year old m119 valve stem oil seals? Don’t trust yourself not to irreparably damage the hydraulic element bores in the process of using your fleabay compressor kit?

Look no further. May I present the JC5000 revolutionary new m119 hydraulic element protective sleeve system.

It has a Top bore locating locking ring TM that sets it for the optimum depth in the recess to not only fully protect the bore, but carefully designed to reduce or even elimate entirely the risk of losing collets down beside the valve spring. It can be used again and again and is made of 100% recycled materials. Installation and removal of the tool is simplicy itself. It's engineered design means it has a tight outward holding force in the bore at all times during use.

Get yours now for a limited offer of 149.99 + taxes and shipping!!