Need to buy new motor mounts

[500Espot]

Postby Payton on Mon May 11, 2009 8:54 pm

Any recommendations? Prices are all over the board. Does anyone have personal experience with the below?

Dealer price is ~$185 each I believe.
Autohauszaz has Sachs-Boge brand for $92 each
I've found URO brand for as cheap as $30 each
FEQ for $70 each
Westar for $85 each

Thanks in advance.

Payton

================================

Postby gsxr on Mon May 11, 2009 9:00 pm

Dealer list is now $210 USD each (ouch), $168 wholesale, for .034/.036 engine mounts (p/n 124-240-26-17).

Sachs/Boge are OEM, those are ok to use.

URO and FEQ are offshore (Chinese, Taiwan) junk - I wouldn't put those on a car you care about. I'm not familar with "Westar" brand.

If you're replacing the engine mounts, you might as well get a new tranny mount as well (p/n 140-240-03-18).



Dave M.
Boise, ID
1995 E420 (W.I.P.)
1994 E500 (Q-ship)
1993 300D (Sportline)
1987 300D (Sportline Stage 2)
1987 300D (R.I.P)
Click here for my website photos, documents, and movies.

================================

Postby gerryvz on Mon May 11, 2009 9:18 pm

Agree with GSXR on both counts:

Go with MB or OEM mounts only.

Do transmission mount at the same time as motor mounts.

Also,

Wish that M119 motor mounts were as cheap as M117 (admittedly non-hydraulic) mounts

Cheers,
Gerry

================================

Postby omegabenz on Mon May 11, 2009 11:47 pm

I talked about this on 500ex, but the boge oem mounts that I got had the mb star ground off, so I used those. I also did a full write up on it (500ex) and some info in the wiki here.

Italianbenz was selling a set of OE ones in the classifieds.

Have fun be safe. Consider changing the rear heater core hoses at this time and idler arm bushings.

o================================

Postby Payton on Wed May 13, 2009 5:35 am

Thanks all, looks like I'll be placing another order with autohausaz.

Payton

================================

Postby omegabenz on Wed May 13, 2009 6:17 am

oh, also I recommend buying new bolts for the motor mounts, and bolts for the engine legs to the block. I posted the part numbers on 500ex if you want to look.

Also, Ive said this before, but you will want to change the heater core lines at the back of the block BEFORE you do the motor mounts because afterwards, the clearance is much tighter because the engine sits up more. Also, if you want to reseal your valve covers do it BEFORE.

Also, measure the gap between the upper oil pan and the lower core support before and after, you will notice almost 20mm or more of elevation change. Have fun, be safe.

 

[550Maranello]

Dave,

What's the degree of difficulty for replacing the motor mounts and possibly new bolts and bolts for the engine legs to the block as suggested by Austin?

BOGE mounts are $107 a piece. Transmission mount $60 - unknown brand.

Kind regards,

Orazio

 

[gsxr]

That is a good question. I do not know, since I have not yet done this job on my car. I suspect it is a medium / difficult DIY project, particularly if you do not have a vehicle lift (i.e., if you are working with a floor jack in your driveway or garage). Austin should be able to provide more details. Be careful when jacking up the engine, that it doesn't bind anywhere... keep an eye on the fan and fan shroud, also the transmission/engine at the rear firewall area.

 

[J. M. van Swaay]

I did this job on my car a few months ago, I'd call it a medium level DIY. I don't have a lift--I use two large floor jacks, one on each side for access underneath. I have metal lock bars that lock the scissors of the jacks when fully extended. (don't want to risk hydraulic failure......) I do have an engine hoist, this job would be very difficult and perhaps unsafe without one. The transmission mount is pretty easy--just takes a big wrench and a jack to lift/support the transmission. The transmission mount has elongated holes, so be careful with the alignment. The main mounts are only difficult because of limited access. The exhaust crossover pipe has to come off--be sure to have replacement bolts and nuts for the downstream connection as they will most likely break during disassembly. Steering rods also need to be removed--ball joint tool required. There is also a small frame channel that has to be removed. Once I had access to the mounts, I ended up removing the engine mount and bracket as an assembly. Once the assembly was loose, I was able to move it around enough to get a wrench on the bolt that holds the mount to the bracket. Once the two are separated, you can manuever them clear of the car......

I called this a medium level DIY, if you are handy with a wrench it is doable. If you are often challenged by stubborn bolts, or don't have a fair amount of hand strength, this job will be difficult for you.

Hope this helps.

J. M. van Swaay

 

[jhodg5ck]

The top bolts can Really be a PITA, esp if the car has seen salt.....

Jonathan


----------------
Now playing: Dire Straits - Alchemy CD1 - 03 - Romeo And Juliet
via FoxyTunes

 

[clarkz71]

The Sachs-Boge are OEM as my buddy Dave stated.

If you have access to a lift, remove the exhaust system in one piece as per MB work instructions.

Otherwise remove the crossover and unbolt the r/s head pipe for more room.

By the way, new member here, MB dealer tech since 1982
so looking foward to helping out whenever I can.

I don't have a 124.036 but my 94 E420 runs pretty strong with the 92 LH module.

Here's the pdf work instruction on mount replacement.
Also covere R129, W140 and W210.

Pics of my ride as well.

http://mb.auto.pl/wis/w124/CD01/Engine/119/22-2110.pdf