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New to me 400e!

Jason1238

Member
Member
Hello everyone, I've been lurking about for the last few weeks reading and soaking in the knowledge that's here. You guys are incredible!

I bought a '93 400e a couple months ago, knowing it had a few issues (197k miles). I had done quite a bit of research beforehand and being a long time wrench-turner, and a fan of German engineering, I couldn't pass it up for $800!
I knew the wiring harnesses were original, and surprisingly, the car ran quite well. It had a bit of a stumble once it warmed up, but I was convinced that the harness replacement would fix it. I opted to rewire the upper harness myself...that wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be. It was kind of relaxing to have a project to work on in the garage, with a fridge full of beer close by! There is a bit of delay going into reverse...I've already started saving for that...

Anyway, upper harness done, now the problem is that the car wants to hunt for idle when cold. Sometimes it hunts itself to death (literally). From all the "Rough idle" threads I have read here and on other forums, it seems my problem is a bit different than most others. Seems the majority of trouble with idle is after warming up in those threads. My car actually runs much better after warming up...the Italian tune up I did was quite...ahem...exciting.:jono:

But, the cold idle is a problem so I start troubleshooting:

Plug wires look fine, no light show in the dark.
Checked resistor ends of the plug wires (mine are all Bosch), and they are all 1800-2000 ohms.
Installed F8DC4 plugs...PO had 5Kohm NGK's in it.
Pulled caps and rotors and they were a little crusty, but no carbon tracking evidence anywhere, so I cleaned them up and reinstalled.

I noticed that if I gently push on the MAF body, the car would immediately sputter (this happens regardless of operating temp). More on this later...

I built a blinker box and pulled/cleared all codes. Drove it for a couple days, and read codes again. Surprisingly, I only had 3 codes, and thanks to the pdf found here, this is what I see for those codes (the car does have ASR):

Code 13 on pin 4: IAT sensor open/short - (I had unplugged it and forgot to plug it back in...:doh:).
Code 2 on pin 7: EA/CC/ISC control module - this one is a bit of a mystery, as there are several possibilities here, but I did check the ETA wires, and they're in great shape. Maybe this had been replaced by PO?
Code 30 on pin 6: CAN data bus to EA/CC/ISC control module interrupted.

So, it seems that the two remaining codes after plugging in the IAT sensor both deal with the ETA. I leaned over the engine while it was idling to see the sticker on the ETA, and that's when I discovered the MAF sensor sensitivity to touch. If I barely push it in any direction the car will sputter and most of the time stall out...weird.

I unplugged the MAF, and viola! Car has no troubles at all, even when cold. I can now almost rip the MAF sensor off the boot, and there's no change to the idle.

I guess the TL,DR version is this: I unplugged the MAF sensor, theoretically speaking, how long can I run it this way? What are the risks here? Chance of clogging the cats? I'm expecting a bit of a mileage hit...but how bad will it be?

Or, in other words, how long can I cruise eBay/Craigslist/junkyards looking for a deal on a used one?
 
Yeah, I replaced all the little rubber hoses going into the top of the intake that I could see. They were pretty rough. Also replaced the boot between the ETA and MAF. None of this seemed to make a difference.

I guess I need to get out the MightyVac and start testing them all.

Anyone know what the little diaphragm on the front passenger side of the intake is? There's a vacuum line coming off it headed to the passenger side fender...
 
Better than a MityVac would be to take the car to a mechanic, and have a smoke test done. That will let you know immediately whether there is a vacuum leak in the car's intake plumbing or not.
 
If you unplug the MAF and it runs great, pretty likely the MAF is bad. Can't confirm that 100% without viewing the airflow live data on a digital scanner, but I'd start looking for an MAF. You can drive it like this for a while but it will be in a "fixed operating mode" which is not ideal.

The code 2 / code 30 thing miiiight be related to a failing NSS (neutral safety / starter lockout / etc) switch on the trans, which is a common failure. If you keep getting those codes, I'd consider replacing that switch, especially if it appears to be old / original. Drive the car for a while and see if those same two codes keep recurring frequently. The new switch is ~$100 or so and it isn't likely you'll find a good one of the correct part number at P+P.

:cel:
 
Gerryvz- Thanks for the tip...don't know any mechanics with a smoke machine, but I do like a good cigar once in a while. It's been years since I've owned a car with this many vacuum lines...I'll smoke it one way or the other!

Gsxr- Hunting for a MAF now. Gonna' take it one step at a time here...plan is to replace the MAF, clear codes, and drive a few days and check codes again. If the same codes come back, I'll hunt down a NSS. Thanks for the advice!

About the MAF, in searching around it seems there are several different P/N's for it.

I have found 3 different ones so far (on various sites, all claiming correct fitment):

0280214004
0986280121 <---(my car currently has this one)
000-094-01-48-60

Which one should I grab? What are the differences?
 
I have a maf off my car your welcome to diagnose with. They are wicked expensive and wouldn't want anyone to replace one if it didn't need it.
 
I have a couple of spare MAFs for my car, but I can get my hands on a MAF from a 500SEL (W140) with M119.97X this weekend if needed. It's in a wrecking yard here in Houston but the MAF is still on the car and in good shape.
 
I appreciate the offer Gerryvz, but I shouldn't need it. I'm going to get hands on one to test here within the next week I hope, and if it works, I'll just buy that one.

Fingers crossed!
I'll say it again...you guys rock! :gsxrock:
 

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