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OWNER nocfn

I have 6-7 of those 126 coupe / 107 roadster hood start that are faded, in my parts hoard. They don't even last a year -- the new one I had installed on my SEC when I got it painted last year (picked it up last May) is already about 60% faded, and the car has not seen a lot of sunlight etc.

I'm going to try my hand at painting and clear-coating one myself to see if I can improve on the factory paint, rather than keeping spending $20 a pop for them (or whatever they cost nowadays...).

Over the past 15.5 years, I think I've gone through at least 5 of them.

The plastic ones that MB "specs" do not fit the hood holes correctly. Thankfully the aluminum 107 part number stars are still available...for now.
 
C126 work - removed the bright work off the top of the windscreen today. I was in the shade, it was an awesome spring day! 83F and about 20% humidity. Anyway, PO at some point
Replaced front screen and the installer did not use approved MB OE butyl rubber kit and in some ways I am
Ok with that. I wish the upper channel was more filled and even but I was prepared.

I used a nylon scrub brush and was able to remove a decade or so of buildup and grime between the top of the glass and the leading edge of the roof. After scrubbing dry and some compressed air, i took a handiwipe with Isopropyl and began to clean. One of the clips was rusted and the rivet was gone, but it was in a forgettable location.

While I was cleaning the windscreen, the rubber from the brightwork was was getting a hot soapy soak. Then it soaked in aerospace 303 while I laid an even bead of rtv silicone window sealant, to even out the install of the windscreen, and to fill in where the missing clip would normally be. Letting that cure, I filled the corners with a large dollop to protect the joints and it is a common leak point due to the reveal moulding. Anyway the rubber was attached to the brightwork, and the brightwork trim installed back onto the clips.

The final continuous bead was installed at the mating surface of the leading roof edge and the trim. A judicious steady wipe with isopropyl forced any excess silicone where it was needed, and clean up. Looking forward to a dry under seat DS carpet after a big rain.

No pics, this is a pedestrian task and it took about 2 hours with attention to detail.
 
All this KRIKIT talk got me thinking, I experience tested my belt when I reassembled after the chain and valve train work for the C126. I went back in with my KRIKIT and saw my new belts were close, but not good enough. PS/WP belts were off by 5 Kg, Alternator off by 5 Kg but the AC tension was off by 10 Kg. I remembered cheeping out using my breaker bar but today I used my trusty 22mm on the flats and got it right up to the desired Kg 2-3x checking.
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Had about an hour today to install my rear sway-bar links. I replaced 5 year old plastic stock links (bushings were not very loose but worn after almost 6 years) with a set of W116 metal links from MB of Naperville (w115 p/n). I am running a 19mm upgraded sway-bar. It takes longer to remove the wheels/jacking then it does to R/R the links.

Regardless if you go stock, or more robust metal W116 links, you will need a standard open end 17mm wrench, and the MB 17mm wrench from the toolkit. Optional is a rubber mallet as the length of the MB (pop-sickle stick thin) 17mm wrench barely extends past the dust shield, so very little leverage to break it loose. 174,954
 
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C126

Damn 94f and 58% humidity feels
Like 104F. Battery from 2015 died this Morning, bowed out like it was an egg. Free replacement, so will sweat thru a soda wash of the area, removing battery tray. Will install once sun is behind the trees. 174,974
 
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nocfn said:
Battery from 2015 died this Morning, bowed out like it was an egg. Free replacement...
Click to expand...
Louis, what brand / model / group battery died? Was it a shorted cell, or other failure mode? Flooded or AGM?

:detective:
 
So this morning, the battery was DOA! SO it was a charging issue after all - KLINK WAS RIGHT!!!

So I removed the 150amp alternator I had from 2013, and my original 80 Amp stock alternator that I pulled out in 2013 and both tested negative - as in Kaput! The Voltage Regulators had long length as well, but were also KAPUT! KLINK knows, trust him :klink:

So I had a never used reman stock alternator in my storage unit from my parts car, that tested positive!! so I had to do some positive cable wire splicing and repairs, heat shrink them all and installed new eye for the attachment. So far so good - new battery and new alternator and voltage regulator for zero cost, it was worth the sweat! :txflag: Charge held this morning and alternator did the trick
 
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C126

Installed a new fuel pressure regulator, using a spare Bosch that was newer (few k on the clock) still shiny with rubber nipple in tact and soft. I replaced OE. Checked for leaks, good to go.

Rotated my tires, front to back.

175,110
 
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The C126 is getting some additional love. She is up on ramps where I am doing the following:

1: Replacing motor mounts date of manufacture 5/18 6/26/18

2: Replacing engine shocks 6/27/18

3: Replacing bushings for engine shocks. 6/27/18

4: general cleaning (I may have a small SLS hard pipe leak between the coupling, going along cross-member and up to the reservoir. Will investigate and replace if needed with new from MB or off parts car.

5: Will flush out fluid and use new SLS reservoir from MB. 6/27/18
6: Replace scrapped up oil pan that occurred prior to me getting a MB skid plate 5/27/18

7: New gasket (the usual suspects inside the crankcase are less than 5 years old and were new - not refreshing unless damaged - no leaks) Oil and filter change as well even though the change is early in the schedule from last change, I am here and it would be a 4th change, so its old fashioned drain rather than suction method. 5/27/18

8: Replaced the air distribution hoses to the Fuel injectors. (replacing rubber that I was mis-informed as NLA. MB rubber is available for all hoses for engine air flow, the end caps and the connections. After less than a year on the car the vacuum leaks were many for both of the replaced hoses. 5/24/18

9: New Bosch fuel accumulator and fuel filter and new Bosch pumps installed. I used new crush washers where appropriate and used the Klink method of green bearing grease lightly added to the washer prior to use. The fuel block and the hoses were replaced in early 2013. The one hose connecting the two pumps with 2” of rubber looks suspect and will be replaced. 7/6/2018

10: Obtained some AC gauges and will make the appropriate additions of R134A to the system if required. 8/15/2018

11: Removed the POS/NEG connections to fuel pump package, to inspect wiring and just like Gerry, I had worn insulation from vibration over the years. No symptoms - just exposed. Removed wires from each pump, heat shrink applied and new boots affixed. 6/26/18

12: Replaced OE monovalve with MB replacement 7/06/2018
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Excellent stuff! What is your timeframe? Planning on all that this weekend?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Actually, I have many parts, but the critical ones to move forward are yet to be delivered. Mounts and bushings for the engine struts will be here Wednesday. Then I can install them and move on to old school oil change and pan replacement. Once that end is
complete, i can run the engine (intake hoses done) and swap out the SLS reservoir and cycle in fresh fluid. On ramps, the back end is too low for me
to get at the fuel stack. So front first, back last and should be completed next Friday. MB club taking road trip to Bush Library in College Station, about 25 cars so I get to take a good drive in the E500 for a few days.
 
Louie,

Sounds like a fun trip with the MB Club. How far is the Bush Library from your home?

My wife and I want to see all of the Presidential Libraries in Texas along with the Johnson Space Center. It’s a long road trip for all of these sites in one visit.

Some Day
 
Pretty close, about 2 hours from NE Houston to Texas A&M campus. Space Center Houston is 45 minutes south from me, I am just 6 miles north of IAH.

The club has private tour, just us in the place and that will be cool no matter what. LBJ outside Austin and GWB @ SMU were both very cool as well. Reagan’s is the standard imho.
 
nocfn said:
C126

Installed a new fuel pressure regulator, using a spare Bosch that was newer (few k on the clock) still shiny with rubber nipple in tact and soft. I replaced OE. Checked for leaks, good to go.

Rotated my tires, front to back.

175,110
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Going to change back to the FPR I had removed. Getting a no start issue after fuel filter/pumps/accumulator. Bench tested cold start injection and it passed when energized. New strong pumps must have done it in.
 
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Any chance of your making a "how to" for our forum on some of the jobs?

I ordered engine shocks last week and have never done this particular job on the C126.
 
Manual is straight forward but buy 2 bushing kits from mb. The rest of the experience is well documented.
 
nocfn said:
Going to change back to the FPR I had removed. Getting a no start issue after fuel filter/pumps/accumulator. Bench tested cold start injection and it passed when energized. New strong pumps must have done it in.
Click to expand...


So after changing pumps and filter - the car shut down. Over the past few years I have been compensating for poor idle and performance. After changing pumps and rebuilding the wiring, lets just say a niagra falls of fuel for an overly rich mixture. To make that worse, the fuel filter on the supply side was suspect. With the help of a good friend, I was walked thru a multitude of scenarios to test just about everything but the cigar lighter. FD return flow had a bit of debris in the gas. Suspecting a bad filter that sat in my shop for about 8-10 months, worst fear confirmed. Supply side of filter the gas was clear, draining the filtered output the gas was milky. To be sure, my tank strainer was OE with a 1991 date code along with the original hoses. I drained the tank and ran 3 gallons thru to be sure. Installed new strainer, hoses and filter/pumps and accumulator. Also replaced the plugs as they were fouled with un-spent fuel and a ton of carbon. I ran clean fuel thru the return line at the distributor, also out of both the upper and lower chamber ports. Finally got it started and was wickedly rich. Again with wise counsel, I was able to lean it out significantly to achieve a seat of the pants close to rhythmic idle. Will hunt down multimeter manual to adjust the duty cycle a bit more precisely. Glad that part is about over! Couldn't of done any of this without help - many thanks ! you know who your are! Will post some pics here in a moment.

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inside of original fuel supply hose. Everything in the supply/pump looked like this or worse after 27 years.

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.

I have seen many worse tank Strainers and it takes a 46mm socket cut down to fit in the tight spaces. 3/4 drive reduced to 1/2.
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And finally the spark plugs after the massive fuel flow drowned them and shut down the engine.

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. Plugs 5-8, and 5 was cleaned off to show the contrast.
 
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E500 fanatic work -

Got tired of the DS blurb coming out of my nozzle. Removed nozzle and it crumbled in my hands so of course I ordered new, and for giggles I ordered a new pump and grommet set. Ran the fluid thru the lines and the pump wasn't as strong as I had hoped so just refreshed it all as a matter of record. I also have the new door strikers since I have lowmania and a new T-40 socket to replace the slightly stripped socket I had.

I will update the miles after I have a look at the ODO.
 
C126 - Went to St Louis for a long weekend and ended up leaving the car at the covered parking lot. She started right up but I did not get the chance to condition the leather. Just gave it a DODO Juice cleaning, and a hot wipe down with damp hot water. Massaged in some Leatherique with my hands front and rear and she sits out in the sun, soaking up the August baking. Still amazed how the cardboard became supple back in 2008 when I learned about the products. So annual love provided for the C126.
 
Did some minor work on both cars today:

E500

Fit my stainless door sils, attached the fire extinguisher and replaced the front door latches.

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C126

Checked fluid levels and topped off where appropriate. 2 complete fuel tanks later, no leaks of fuel from tank to the injectors and back. Also inspected for oil leaks since my pan gasket r/r and sls bottle replacement - none found. At some point I will affix the steel skid plate since I am leak free. ( I know, its German which is synonymous with leak)
 
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C126

Had a chance to adjust the steering gear tension on my reman unit. Its been over a year or so since I got it and I just got used to the tightness. Nice to turn by two fingers rather than by my biceps.
 
C126

After I had exhausted every spare yard example, I had also acquired multiple aftermarket crapola. I probably spent over 150 bux for used or crayola-based rubber since 2012. (They are all garbage). My last one finally gave up, from the back door of diesel that was rarely used and not original. Moral of the story: I spent more time and money on countless strikers and for $121, I would have been one and done! Much more robust than the W124 to accommodate much heavier door.

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Got my EVOII from jeff last week and got a tire mounted to it, and swapped it with 8 hole 16. That [16"] wheel will go to my daughters DCX product as a spare since DCX gives you an air-pump with fix-a flat in the spare space.

Along the lines of crabby, who fricken designed the Toyota electrical plugs. I had to replace all 4 yes, 4 oxygen sensors and replace a coil pack on #6 cyl. The plugs are on the lower firewall with 3cm slack, and these things just don’t give. Alas, finally unstuck them and got the two downstream and the bastard upstream (air/fuel sensors actually) sensors. All codes cleared, drove car 10 miles and none returned.
 
Was planning on taking the 036 to Dallas over Thanksgiving, but my ribbon broke on the antenna mast - so music isn’t possible for 3.5 hours. Ordered 2 new Hirschman masts, will have them next week. Two different retailers so it will be interesting to see if they are both as advertised and not clones. Pics provided upon arrival.
 
Can you post how you replace the mast?
nocfn said:
Was planning on taking the 036 to Dallas over Thanksgiving, but my ribbon broke on the antenna mast - so music isn’t possible for 3.5 hours. Ordered 2 new Hirschman masts, will have them next week. Two different retailers so it will be interesting to see if they are both as advertised and not clones. Pics provided upon arrival.
Click to expand...
 
Upon further review, it was not the mast, though I secured 2 from different sources and 1 was original, the other was a high quality remake. What turned out to be broken was the tab on half of the gear set for the spring pressure was broken. A common design failure. I acquired replacement gear sets that are better quality reproductions in my view, having the common breaking tab affixes to the hub for support rather than the center of the gear face - sort of on an island. I will post the pictures of the broken pieces on the How To as a visual reference.
 
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Thanks for the update! Can you post the 2 vendors for the mast, and which was good and which was faux?

:apl:
 
gsxr said:
Thanks for the update! Can you post the 2 vendors for the mast, and which was good and which was faux?

:apl:
Click to expand...

The Antenna gears were from Amazon: AntennaMastRus aka Antenna Source $23.95 and these are reproductions using today's polymer plastic and better design.

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The mast below was from the same place - but I cannot tell the difference between the Real Deal and the reproduction.


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Actual Hirschman mast came from Ebay seller for $77.89 in manufacturer's packaging. Search on w124 Antenna Mast 75 cm Hirschman

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Check the tail end of both masts (the white toothed end), see if they are identical or not. If the shape is different... take a close-up of the repro mast. There's another mfr who makes these, and I hope the repop isn't one of those at 6x the price.

:duck:
 
Updated with last pic and while I cannot show you, the one removed original, the installed Hirschmann and the repop - all have the tapered end to allow for the gears to grab smoothly.
 
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So the C126 gave me an eventful few days. We had a 5" deluge over 24 hours here in Houston the other day, and was very happy that I resealed the windscreen earlier this year. So the day after, parking the car outside during the rain, I found some wet backseat carpet on the low spot: where the seat bolts to the floor. After extracting the water with the shop vac (not standing water, just wet) I began to investigate. Front drains in cowl CLEAN. Hole in the A Pillar None found. Poured 4 gallons of water - no leaks. A very good sign as I work diligently to mitigate these areas.

So I removed the front DS carpet and the foam rubber is very heavy so I knew exactly what it was. I turned the ACC on and turned the heater to full heat. As the AC came on, squeezing the water from the air, it drained right out of my new evaporator onto the floor pan. Removed the vertical carpet on the left side and the culprit was confirmed. The hose popped off its nipple for the drain to the transmission tunnel. So I reattached the hose to the drain box and used a zip-tie to keep the hose firmly attached. It must have been disturbed during my rebuild and I must have not secured it properly. Either way, the heat of the summer took care of any fluid but recent highs in the 62-70F range and ACC running gave me the moisture. So I cleaned the old asbestos fire and sound deadening materials, treated the floorpan with rust relief paint as a precaution, and laid a layer of dynamat in the floor pan. Testing the AC after all was put back together provided a steady release of condensation out both sides of the tunnel drains to the ground below. Good for my annual safety inspection on Friday by the state. I also had a chance to clean my dead foot pedal, and repaint it to refresh and match the rest of the car.
 
Had a sporadic idle on the coupe, so I went at the spark plug wires. Luckily the suppressor at #1, upon turning the wire to ensure it was tight....it broke off. So it was broken and that was my issue. Since all of them fit rather loosely on the plugs, I just changed out all of them and replaced the wire for #1 as well. Smooth idle now and I suspect better fuel economy. I usually get 225-240 per tank, I only got 200 on this tank with 7 cylinders firing. Merry Christmas
 
You should be getting 300+ per tank if you drive to when the yellow light goes on plus another 10-15 miles.

I go 270-285 miles per tank when the yellow light comes on. Then drive another 10-20 miles and I’m at 300+.

I’d say usually averages about 12.5-15 MPG depending on whether you do more city or highway driving.

My Fuelly.com averages show 12+ years worth of 560SEC MPG.

14 MPG x 22 gallons = 308 miles. It’s a 24 gallon (90-liter) tank.
 
Well two things - I stop at 19 gallons added when tank light comes on. I have usually just filled it up at 225-230. Most of my driving has been lead foot moving thru the gears for my city driving, and its aggressive!
 
Stevester 500E said:
Can you post how you replace the mast?
Click to expand...

Unscrew the threaded nut 13mm on the retracted antenna completely. Have a helper turn on the radio and the mast will raise. Pull straight up once the mast is fully deployed and it comes out.

Which reminds me, last week I installed a NOS from a parts car. I also cleaned the donor unit and applied new lube. I followed the Honch How - To, the unit was identical.
 
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