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OWNER nocfn
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C126
Here is a pic of the SEC getting some spoil with XP PRIME XR PLUS film on the windscreen and sunroof glass, blocking the IR heat from the sun. SPF 1000 is no joke, this stuff is a massive heat reducer without darkening the windscreen. Also had their self healing vinyl wrap put on my H4 headlight glass to protect those NLA specimens. I will be doing the fog light lenses with spares at a later date.
Will definitely do the E500 windscreen and backglass when I replace them.
Here is a pic of the SEC getting some spoil with XP PRIME XR PLUS film on the windscreen and sunroof glass, blocking the IR heat from the sun. SPF 1000 is no joke, this stuff is a massive heat reducer without darkening the windscreen. Also had their self healing vinyl wrap put on my H4 headlight glass to protect those NLA specimens. I will be doing the fog light lenses with spares at a later date.
Will definitely do the E500 windscreen and backglass when I replace them.
A follow up on Dad's 124.034
He replaced the unit with a new Nissens I had delivered to him. He managed to get the Shroud apart without any stripping, and removed with all parts in tact. He also cleaned both sides of the condenser with a/c cleaner and after a good soak, used water and compressed air to force out that which was not removed by the cleaning solvent. Burped and farted the system and she is good to go. Hoses were not the original and were in good shape, I already had him change the expansion tank cap when he received the car.
He replaced the unit with a new Nissens I had delivered to him. He managed to get the Shroud apart without any stripping, and removed with all parts in tact. He also cleaned both sides of the condenser with a/c cleaner and after a good soak, used water and compressed air to force out that which was not removed by the cleaning solvent. Burped and farted the system and she is good to go. Hoses were not the original and were in good shape, I already had him change the expansion tank cap when he received the car.
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124.036 - Oil Change and filter 128,097
Nothing remarkable here to post other than routine 15/50 Red line, Hengst Filter, O-rings and crush washer. Old filter did its job perfectly, and was in great shape after approximately 5k miles - no structural degradation. Used slightly over 8 quarts, meaning some of the old did not suction out using the fat-boy. I should have warmed up the oil first but it is just too hot in the shop for that.
Nothing remarkable here to post other than routine 15/50 Red line, Hengst Filter, O-rings and crush washer. Old filter did its job perfectly, and was in great shape after approximately 5k miles - no structural degradation. Used slightly over 8 quarts, meaning some of the old did not suction out using the fat-boy. I should have warmed up the oil first but it is just too hot in the shop for that.
C126
So this is the time of year that I perform various projects on the C126 and drive the E500. I have been battling an A pillar leak for as ling as I can remember and I finally had enough. So after years of hoping I sealed it, I bought an endoscopic camera and did some checking and found that the lower windscreen support had lost it seam seal ar the A pillar under the glass. This is an area that is only covered by glass, below the butyl rubber seal of the factory windsceen. The PO had a replacement screen fitted and the installer did not have ability to open the hood. This resulted in grinding some of the bottom edges of the glass exposing the seam to running water. I will be sealing the offending area after I paint the entire support frame with miraclepaint and install new glass.
So this is the time of year that I perform various projects on the C126 and drive the E500. I have been battling an A pillar leak for as ling as I can remember and I finally had enough. So after years of hoping I sealed it, I bought an endoscopic camera and did some checking and found that the lower windscreen support had lost it seam seal ar the A pillar under the glass. This is an area that is only covered by glass, below the butyl rubber seal of the factory windsceen. The PO had a replacement screen fitted and the installer did not have ability to open the hood. This resulted in grinding some of the bottom edges of the glass exposing the seam to running water. I will be sealing the offending area after I paint the entire support frame with miraclepaint and install new glass.
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Went to take the E500 out for a nice fall ride, No Joy!
Battery died, so took the opportunity to replace my battery with a Bosch AGM and installed the new battery tray. Mine had some scratches but no issue with leaking battery or other debris under the tray. 124,235
Well the AGM lasted just over 25 months.(and 4k miles) Pep Boys is replacing it as the CCA were below 335 and would not charge. I am not sure if it is pro-rata or if it is free replacement but we need it either way. For now, I keep my quick mobile jump unit with me at all times charged and ready.
The Bosch AGM's have a 4 year free replacement warranty.
You don't keep your car on a battery tender or other type of battery maintainer? I found that Texas heat and humidity was hell on batteries, as is the cold weather here in Maryland. Definitely keep my cars and bike on Battery tenders.
I have generally found that you only get one chance with an AGM battery, any more than that if it goes dead or near dead, and that's all she wrote. Traditional batteries are a bit more forgiving, but all my cars now have AGMs.
I have generally found that you only get one chance with an AGM battery, any more than that if it goes dead or near dead, and that's all she wrote. Traditional batteries are a bit more forgiving, but all my cars now have AGMs.
... and either use a maintainer with desulfation/pulse technology, or add a desulfator (like PowerPulse) for use with a normal maintainer.
I've been trying out this unit on one of my cars, so far, it seems to work pretty well. Ranked 4.5 stars at Amazon:
I've been trying out this unit on one of my cars, so far, it seems to work pretty well. Ranked 4.5 stars at Amazon:
Amazon.com: BatteryMINDer 1510: 12 Volt-1.5 Amp Battery Charger, Battery Maintainer, and Battery Desulfator – Designed for Cars, Trucks, Motorcycles, ATV, Boats, RV: Automotive
Buy BatteryMINDer 1510: 12 Volt-1.5 Amp Battery Charger, Battery Maintainer, and Battery Desulfator - Designed for Cars, Trucks, Motorcycles, ATV, Boats, RV: Battery Chargers - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
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Noooo! Don't let it idle, parked, for 15 mins. Either drive the car for 30+ minutes to warm up all fluids (trans, diff, etc) or don't start it at all. There is nothing wrong with letting the car sit for 6-12 months between starts, if you have fuel stabilizer, and a battery maintainer. Some of my cars go years between starts. There are old threads discussing this in more detail.
Excellent idea. Again, desulfation will help more than just a plain ol' maintainer.
I just got a similar unit (link) but haven't had time to mess with it yet.
The other thing you can do is just to disconnect the battery in between uses. It won't run down if disconnected. I know that my own E500 will slowly discharge the battery in cold weather if I let it sit not on a trickle charger, in about a month. Even in Texas it would slowly discharge when it sat. For Laura's 4Runner (which sits outside in all weather), I just disconnect the battery and it's perfectly fine in all weather, even after a few weeks of not driving it. My G-wagen doesn't draw a significant load on the battery, even after weeks. Nor does my 560SEC.
I didn't have any draw, cold FPR no clicks, all can modules cold and quiet as were the other relays in the fuse box. The alarm module was removed already. So its the clock and or dead battery. Not sure how many people need an AGM this big in my location from a 2 bay pepboys. It may have been on the shelf for a while too. Either way, its a mild PITA, with my mobile jumper box, it turns over once and starts strong. I bought a tender, but will consider the lower cost method too, yanking and wrapping the Neg cable 
You can get one of those "spinner" wheel battery contact switches that attach to the battery pole (if you have room). I have a $10 flip-switch bridge on the positive terminal of Laura's Runner. Works well; I just have to raise the hood and flip the switch when we drive it.
C126
Finally got my windscreen installed on the 560 SEC today. Looking forward to getting all my trim cleaned up and reinstalled. Both of my kids graduate from college in a few days so it may be 2-4 weeks before I get to it with all the seasonal activity. Nice glass, clear and no distortions, Not usually the case with aftermarket glass. IIRC, the glass is rather newer production compared to what it replaced which was also aftermarket and was installed by PO back in late 2006,
Finally got my windscreen installed on the 560 SEC today. Looking forward to getting all my trim cleaned up and reinstalled. Both of my kids graduate from college in a few days so it may be 2-4 weeks before I get to it with all the seasonal activity. Nice glass, clear and no distortions, Not usually the case with aftermarket glass. IIRC, the glass is rather newer production compared to what it replaced which was also aftermarket and was installed by PO back in late 2006,
Had a visit here in Texas from My 79 year old Dad, who drove his 94 E420 from Cleveland, OH to Houston, Texas. Car performed flawlessly, the truck 100 yards ahead of him shredded a tire. After that fiasco at 90 mph, the only fallout was a cracked lower bumper skin. I was able to piece it all together and it is pretty solid, and will remain as repaired until nature provides me the ownership no doubt. He left today for his 3 day drive back north.
His DIY radiator repair was perfect, I did go in and torque up the cooler lines at the radiator and wipe down some areas he didn't see. I also reviewed my work in the summer of HIS short hose (lol) repair and I gave the clamps a twist, along with his S hose clamp down. Those two clamps were loose enough for me to move them by hand with significant effort. So they got 2 full turns as well. I showed him where the full lines were on the PS, oil and transmission so he didn't teat it like a GM. I had to remove some PS fluid as it was up about 3oz over the full line. Explained that the old lid gasket is hard, doesn't seal great when new. The 3oz over fill did not allow for expansion due to heat and he would leak. So we fixed that and I will send a new PS reservoir gasket to him for personal install.
On his door, I removed the window seal and installed new factory seal, took away the whistle. I cleaned regulator and lubed gear and motor teeth with fresh grease. I also took out the check-strap and removed the grease and used fresh and reinstalled. His door card was never removed before so it really needed the service. I have some pics of the stable, and some of the E420 driving behind the E500. It was a good visit personally and from a car perspective. Both kids graduated from college, my daughter got a new car as well yesterday (no benz she has to earn that) and it was a great break.
His DIY radiator repair was perfect, I did go in and torque up the cooler lines at the radiator and wipe down some areas he didn't see. I also reviewed my work in the summer of HIS short hose (lol) repair and I gave the clamps a twist, along with his S hose clamp down. Those two clamps were loose enough for me to move them by hand with significant effort. So they got 2 full turns as well. I showed him where the full lines were on the PS, oil and transmission so he didn't teat it like a GM. I had to remove some PS fluid as it was up about 3oz over the full line. Explained that the old lid gasket is hard, doesn't seal great when new. The 3oz over fill did not allow for expansion due to heat and he would leak. So we fixed that and I will send a new PS reservoir gasket to him for personal install.
On his door, I removed the window seal and installed new factory seal, took away the whistle. I cleaned regulator and lubed gear and motor teeth with fresh grease. I also took out the check-strap and removed the grease and used fresh and reinstalled. His door card was never removed before so it really needed the service. I have some pics of the stable, and some of the E420 driving behind the E500. It was a good visit personally and from a car perspective. Both kids graduated from college, my daughter got a new car as well yesterday (no benz she has to earn that) and it was a great break.
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Louis,
You da Man!! Nice temp fix on your Dad’s car. I see the wire or rope holding up the lower air dam. Did the tire rip it down? I’m about your Dad’s age if I adopt you and drive my 500E to Texas maybe you can do some work on it for me? (Just Kidding)
Your Dad’s car must be in pretty good shape to make the trip. And to have it serviced at Louis’s Mercedes of Houston. What more could he ask for? I’m sure he appreciates all you do for him.
What I can see of your 500E it looks outstanding!
HAPPY NEWYEAR!!! to you and your family.
You da Man!! Nice temp fix on your Dad’s car. I see the wire or rope holding up the lower air dam. Did the tire rip it down? I’m about your Dad’s age if I adopt you and drive my 500E to Texas maybe you can do some work on it for me? (Just Kidding)
Your Dad’s car must be in pretty good shape to make the trip. And to have it serviced at Louis’s Mercedes of Houston. What more could he ask for? I’m sure he appreciates all you do for him.
What I can see of your 500E it looks outstanding!
HAPPY NEWYEAR!!! to you and your family.
Yes, I painted some zip ties off white to keep it firmly to the structure and then I used a 3x4" piece of flex-seal tape on the inside of the severed halves just about 4" toward the PS fender. Yes, the rubber chunks at highway speeds "biffed" the air-dam in half. Factory zip tie on the tow hook cover held it on the larger section toward the DS of the air dam. Dad was very happy we worked on the car, it was often in my early life Mom would drag us kids and specific tools to get my Dad a chance to fix a POS we could afford in the early 70's on the side of an interstate. I saw more plumbers crack than I car to remember, but I learned more from those moments than I ever valued at the time. I told him that, as he hovered over me while I worked on his car. He got quite a kick out of those expressions of memory.
That's great that your dad is still up for a road trip of that distance. Good that the car is working out well for him too. You may have a good laugh now and then as I do remembering one of those POS cars teetering on a bumper jack along side of the highway as your dad changed a tire. Likely a 14 inch bias ply.
The E500 looks great. I had forgotten you had the lowers matched like my own.
drew
The E500 looks great. I had forgotten you had the lowers matched like my own.
drew
Just had a call, Dad running for over 8 hours north BY north east, on hwy 40 now in TN, on his way on I-40 and hoping to spend the night at I65. He pulled over to give the wiper motor a break, he said he could smell the heat of the motor, his words. NO binding he said or noise, smooth when running with his hand on the turtle shell. So hopefully that storm system weAkens and he will not to run wiper full fir a day.
With help from a friend, I was able to get some pictorial lube instructions for turtle shell removal for dummies 
The front is mostly east of him and he will take care of the lube when he gets back. I told him if nothing else, dip the finger into the PS reservoir and swab the slide posts until he gets home to clean and do it right. 
The front is mostly east of him and he will take care of the lube when he gets back. I told him if nothing else, dip the finger into the PS reservoir and swab the slide posts until he gets home to clean and do it right. 
And as a finishing comment on this. I brought the C126 out of holiday storage on MLK day. With 32 hours of rain totaling 1.5" over the period and 45 miles driving, the repairs have finished the water entry saga. Post 611 shows the entry point hidden under the glass from the A pillar vertical mating to the horizontal support. While A pillar leaks are common on 123/126 vehicles, usually this is found under cowl, at the corner drains and also near the battery . The PO of my car had it parked under a willow tree for the last 2 years of ownership and most likely was the culprit. Also, I replaced the DS rear window scrapes and the critical part was the outer scrap which has a huge chunk of precision engineered rubber that seals the door at the B pillar.
Always a good Idea to proactively pour some water into the open channel of the sunroof at each corner to verify quick drainage and the windscreen drains. Gas tank filler also has a drain to check but not usually a problem. Standing water that doesn't drain equates to bad juju. If you drive with the sunroof open at all, airborne items will be in your capsule to some degree. Sunroof drain tubes are the inside diameter of your pinky finger so it doesn't take much to plug up - think of a dead bug and a leaf. This is for the W124 as well.
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124.036
After vetting my safety inspection a few weeks ago, got a chance to explain the car to another patron waiting for his inspection. When I opened the hood I noticed some fluid buildup on the underside of the right side air tube. Got the car on the lift as it has been parked since then. So on my creeper from back to front for surveillance. Rear end dry so up to the transmission and it was dry but missing the shifter bushing. Installed new bushing and the new style clip. Up to the engine bay -not dry. Removed encapsulation panel and found the problem. Left Cooler line dripping wet-connections but were tight. Must be some pressure holes as well because redline fluid all up on the ac line, mount cooler tube, ac compressor and the belt/pulley. So will be placing an order to replace both left and right cooler hoses, most likely will do the c126 as well since they are originals. I did edit the spelling errors, and placed my orders. Did forget to mention that the adjustment link aka rod aka shackle was the older style where the bushings were cracked and missing so I ordered that as well.
**124-320-09-89 not 123-320-09-89 for the SLS adjustment link at the valve (shackle and or rod)
019-997-41-82 for the right side cooler line
220-997-16-52 for the left side trans cooler line
UPDATE 2/11/20 - Naperville delivered my hoses next day. I installed the wet left side hose and it was without the coil spring, rubber bushings instead. A very different feel to the hose material, almost a plastic feel to it. Hose said "oil hose" and some numbers that didn't relate to part or date of mfg. Original hose either leaking from the crimps or under pressure, either way it is in the recycle heap. Right side hose is in part stock, existing hose was dry so no change at the moment. SLS adjustment link on order should be here Wednesday. Tonight, i removed the original. As you can see the bushing material was worn away and drying out. I was easily able to remove the ball out of the joint.
After vetting my safety inspection a few weeks ago, got a chance to explain the car to another patron waiting for his inspection. When I opened the hood I noticed some fluid buildup on the underside of the right side air tube. Got the car on the lift as it has been parked since then. So on my creeper from back to front for surveillance. Rear end dry so up to the transmission and it was dry but missing the shifter bushing. Installed new bushing and the new style clip. Up to the engine bay -not dry. Removed encapsulation panel and found the problem. Left Cooler line dripping wet-connections but were tight. Must be some pressure holes as well because redline fluid all up on the ac line, mount cooler tube, ac compressor and the belt/pulley. So will be placing an order to replace both left and right cooler hoses, most likely will do the c126 as well since they are originals. I did edit the spelling errors, and placed my orders. Did forget to mention that the adjustment link aka rod aka shackle was the older style where the bushings were cracked and missing so I ordered that as well.
**124-320-09-89 not 123-320-09-89 for the SLS adjustment link at the valve (shackle and or rod)
019-997-41-82 for the right side cooler line
220-997-16-52 for the left side trans cooler line
UPDATE 2/11/20 - Naperville delivered my hoses next day. I installed the wet left side hose and it was without the coil spring, rubber bushings instead. A very different feel to the hose material, almost a plastic feel to it. Hose said "oil hose" and some numbers that didn't relate to part or date of mfg. Original hose either leaking from the crimps or under pressure, either way it is in the recycle heap. Right side hose is in part stock, existing hose was dry so no change at the moment. SLS adjustment link on order should be here Wednesday. Tonight, i removed the original. As you can see the bushing material was worn away and drying out. I was easily able to remove the ball out of the joint.
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124.036
Today I replaced all 4 brake lines with braided steel From Deerfield Precision. Let one brake line drip free overnight which emptied the reservoir about 70%. Added fresh fluid and will bleed them out. Upon inspection of my SLS spring legs, the bump stops were non existent. I elected to buy new from MB, bushing kit and the proper adjustment rod (Foolishly relied on website partnumber). The previously mentioned pn in the previous postwill has been amended.
Today I replaced all 4 brake lines with braided steel From Deerfield Precision. Let one brake line drip free overnight which emptied the reservoir about 70%. Added fresh fluid and will bleed them out. Upon inspection of my SLS spring legs, the bump stops were non existent. I elected to buy new from MB, bushing kit and the proper adjustment rod (Foolishly relied on website partnumber). The previously mentioned pn in the previous post
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Spent time today to bleed the brakes, and after that I spent a whole red can cleaning the spray to clean off the ac unit and all the wet areas. I torqued down all hoses and focused on my output shaft. It was a bit wet so I ordered the seals to replace them, and since the cross pipe is coming off, the long hose will get replaced. A busy few weeks for me....
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I began the prep process as I wait for parts to arrive. Front end was simple, just remove the 8mm screw holding the heat shield over the LP PS return line. Back end, I cracked the fitting on the line to the right sphere and allowed it to drain to a trickle. Since the car is on a lift, I placed a jack under the control arm (plastic cover removed) and compressed the suspension all the way up, pushing out most of what was left in the strut/line. I did the same for the left side as well. Fluid was clean and out of the bottle honey.
Both struts are completely Tango Unicorn, missing not only the bump stop under the bellows but the bottom bushings were caked with buildup over the years, most likely due to age and the car bounced like a jalopy when I bought it with blown accumulator spheres. As such, like the chicken or the egg - one has to bight the bullet and get-r-done right. The bottom bushings were declining, loosed by almost 26 years of service and caked hydraulic fluid.
Both struts are completely Tango Unicorn, missing not only the bump stop under the bellows but the bottom bushings were caked with buildup over the years, most likely due to age and the car bounced like a jalopy when I bought it with blown accumulator spheres. As such, like the chicken or the egg - one has to bight the bullet and get-r-done right. The bottom bushings were declining, loosed by almost 26 years of service and caked hydraulic fluid.
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Yesterday I removed the output shaft cover of the steering gear to replace the brittle seal, the large O ring, Teflon ring and the small O ring for the mating surface. One of the bolts was a bit chewed up so I ordered another one. Fresh Loctite used, and glad to have this job done. I removed the Low Pressure fitting (19mm) at the gear, and when I get back in town I will replace the long rubber hose. When that job is finished, it is back to the rear strut install and the putting the trunk back together, fill both the PS and the SLS with fresh fluid, and begin to drain and fill the SLS and check for leaks. Hope to wrap all this up by Wednesday
Mike, I did not notice any difference. I already installed the new one for the W124, and if anything, the W124 P/N "might" have a longer shaft than the w123 PN for the SEC/SEL. BUT, it is my unproven suggestion to buy the lower cost W124 PN as it is cheaper, and if the center shaft is shorter, just swap the ends with the ball joints over to the shorter shaft on the W123 P/N. The ball joints are the same using the 8mm flats with a 10mm nut on the end of the ball joint. My 123 P/N is less than 10 years old on the C126 and I installed that one for the same reason, old style ball joints were missing.
I went to change the long hose today for about an hour or so. Attempting to change the hose clamp in the engine bay was enough to make a sailor blush. I wanted a clamp with more gravitas and the engine bay space is limited unless you have arms an hands like
Olive Oil (to keep with the sailor theme). So I never removed the long hose from the cooler line, and I found no evidence of leaking of the hose at that end or at the steering gear end. So I have new copper crush washers for the banjo bolt and will endeavor to restore that connection. For me, I think that when I have to raise the engine to replace the mounts again will be the ideal time to do this job. For me, I just could not get my hands on the hose to remove it from the cooler and did not want to fab a tool to prise it off.
The clamp I used was a bit larger, rolled edge clamp with a 6mm head. Using the 2' extension to torque it down to compress the rubber better than I could with my 18" screwdriver on the old clamp.
Picture below is for future reference. Photo highjacked from GSXR....
Olive Oil (to keep with the sailor theme). So I never removed the long hose from the cooler line, and I found no evidence of leaking of the hose at that end or at the steering gear end. So I have new copper crush washers for the banjo bolt and will endeavor to restore that connection. For me, I think that when I have to raise the engine to replace the mounts again will be the ideal time to do this job. For me, I just could not get my hands on the hose to remove it from the cooler and did not want to fab a tool to prise it off.
The clamp I used was a bit larger, rolled edge clamp with a 6mm head. Using the 2' extension to torque it down to compress the rubber better than I could with my 18" screwdriver on the old clamp.
Picture below is for future reference. Photo highjacked from GSXR....
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So I wanted to tie a bow on the project with a recap.
All 4 brake lines replaced with Deerfield Precision stainless, Motive power-bleed with new Dot 4.
Both rear spring legs replaced with MB units. Replaced the adjustment rod, and new SLS fluid. All new bushings and hardware pack.
Replaced all seals for the output shaft of the power steering gearbox: Teflon ring, large rubber ring, oil seal and the tiny rubber O-ring. One new hex bolt required to be changed. Replaced large snap ring. Hoses were all replaced last year save the long hose - it has no leaking evidence. Fluid replaced, all hoses tightened.
Replaced the Left side transmission cooler hose with mew MB: I have the right side on my parts stash. Replaced 1/2 pint of D4 Redline fluid.
Leak free after 30 minutes of idle, 30 minutes of driving and overnight sitting.
Rear shifter bushing and clip installed.
Glad to be be done.
128,830 miles
All 4 brake lines replaced with Deerfield Precision stainless, Motive power-bleed with new Dot 4.
Both rear spring legs replaced with MB units. Replaced the adjustment rod, and new SLS fluid. All new bushings and hardware pack.
Replaced all seals for the output shaft of the power steering gearbox: Teflon ring, large rubber ring, oil seal and the tiny rubber O-ring. One new hex bolt required to be changed. Replaced large snap ring. Hoses were all replaced last year save the long hose - it has no leaking evidence. Fluid replaced, all hoses tightened.
Replaced the Left side transmission cooler hose with mew MB: I have the right side on my parts stash. Replaced 1/2 pint of D4 Redline fluid.
Leak free after 30 minutes of idle, 30 minutes of driving and overnight sitting.
Rear shifter bushing and clip installed.
Glad to be be done.
128,830 miles
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C126
Today I had a look around the engine bay and noticed a bit of white powder indicating a leaking cap on the expansion tank of coolant. I replaced the cap from my stash of MB branded caps since the 126 and 124 share the same p/n. Also cleaned up all the mechanical ball/socket linkage points for the acceleration control. Also lubed the pivot mechanisms and checked for leaks in the usual locations. Ready for a steamy Houston Summer, our spring season is short but glorious
Today I had a look around the engine bay and noticed a bit of white powder indicating a leaking cap on the expansion tank of coolant. I replaced the cap from my stash of MB branded caps since the 126 and 124 share the same p/n. Also cleaned up all the mechanical ball/socket linkage points for the acceleration control. Also lubed the pivot mechanisms and checked for leaks in the usual locations. Ready for a steamy Houston Summer, our spring season is short but glorious
After I completed the PS AND TRANS cooler hose work a month or so ago, i left off the encapsulation panel waiting for leaks. I took her out last week to blow the stink out, After a spirited 3 digit speed on the highway, I heard the tell tale sign of plastic scraping. By time I pulled over to check the left front fender liner, the front portion was worn away. Today I installed the panel and the new fender liner from Naperville. 128,949
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