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OWNER nocfn

A PSA of sorts for everyone. I recently had the pleasure of showing off my cars to my Dad as he visited me from Ohio. Dad is a wrencher, worked on a drag racing pit crew when I was a kid in the summers. Anyway while showing off my cars, we were on to the E500 and I noticed exposed wires on the new harness I installed several months ago. The ETA harness was laying on top of my lower harness coming out of the clam shell. The rubbing opened up the sheathing but not the insulation of the wires. I was going to reroute the ETA harness under since there is plenty of slack when I found the issue. The nut holding the support bracket was about 3 turns loose. Problem solved.

Check your bracket at the ETA plug support. Mine was not vertical, so the harness rubbed one another.

62.jpg
 
C126

Been having some episodes, or pooled water in the C126, DS rear. Two issues and the worst was the DS evap core drain hose came off the nipple and since all that was fresh - so was the moisture. I also recently discovered the firewall grommet was not seated at the fire wall from the fuse box, letting in copious amounts of water during heavy rain. So with those fixed, on to other things. For one, my seat springs broke where they usually do when fatigued after - almost 30 years of faithful service. Removing the seat revealed not only the broken spring but the 10 lb carpet in back. Seems the closed cell foam rubber absorbed most of the water. So fans, heat gun and a-lot of weight squeezing out the clear water - evap drain issue.

So repaired the broken spring, and reinforced all the others with S springs for upholstery. Also dismantled the seat motor and base to clean and re-lube. Sitting in the car is like a new car, one I never knew before.
 
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As an edit to the seat pan refresh, I took some wisdom from our own Finnie Dan, who wrote somewhere to buy your own springs, hit the local mom and pop hardware store for the u-bolts, and use your trusty dremel and cut the springs to needs. SO thanks to Dan, and TFTSNBN friend of mine in SAT who did this some years ago. My apologies to GSXR, and Gerry's Uncle Kent. I saved about $50 by using Dan's method rather than buying the "kit". Actually, add in the shipping and that is what my cost was to have this fix so I saved the kit price of $70.
 
Good work, but you do know that Uncle Kent needs to put food on his table, too, so you should give him his due !!
 
Yes I know - I bought a can of miracle paint the week before.
:lolol: Why do I have a sneaking suspicion that perhaps, you are actually one of Uncle Kent's better customers? Must be that TFTSNBN 126-forum influence.
 
:lolol: Why do I have a sneaking suspicion that perhaps, you are actually one of Uncle Kent's better customers? Must be that TFTSNBN 126-forum influence.

He has the best price on Miracle Paint. I see as many videos for free as I do for Lowman! As far as purchases, not so much. Looking forward to the BIG E500E forum announcement!
 
Quick Jack looks great Louis! I am sure you will get a ton of use out of it. Was it easy to setup? Do you just drive over it when it's down?
 
Yes simple setup and once you get the hydraulic hoses installed, they have quick connect fittings. I leave each side collapsed about 6” inside the wheels and come and go. The rubber blocks can be stacked but my extender eliminates the need since you gain by the additional height of the extender. The use on the small car was great with stack blocks. It has wheels on one end, so that helps too.
 
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E500 - Made some clean up of the cam magnet leaking. Cleaned the electrical connector, residual smudge below the area and took care to remove the petrified sealant. Original magnets and nothing to suggest they are leaking internally so a uniform smattering of MB Orange Anaerobic sealant and I reinstalled the device. I will tackle the DS cam Magnet in a few days should time free up.

I have also replaced the air pump vacuum connector as it was hard as a rock and no longer sealing. I will replace the ones up on the Pierburg valve as well since they seemed to be a bit toasted. If there is a check valve, that will also get replaced.

Removed the rear moulding for the lower backglass. The rivets popped out on 4 of the clips. Reinstalled the clips with aluminum rivets and installed the new trim piece.


Edit/Update: Yesterday I took a cursory glance after installing new air filters. No issue with DS Cam Magnet leaking. I reviewed the short hose (haha) and that has shrunk away some. Lots of smudge, but hardly noticeable level change. May be old, but will replace anyway and then, since I am there I will proactively change the sealant on the DS Cam Magnet.
 
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E500 continuation of above. 126,386

Decided to remove DS cam magnet to reseal and clean everything up. Changed out the short hose and replaced aluminum crush washer, feed O ring, reservoir gasket and new studs. Also changed my serpentine belt with new MB sample, replacing a Conti that had a 2010 date code. General cleaning all around from the weepy short hose, new filter (astonished there wasn’t one present) and removed the fluid that I could into a glass jar. I was just as surprised to find clear clean fluid that smelled normal. Had some murphy’s law on this project, thanks to those who helped. Will need to remove encapsulation panel to retrieve some items that fell....

Edit - 2/22/2019 Today I verified I was still leak free with the PS work and cam magnets. With the car still up on the lift, I changed out the petrified fuel tank vent valve. Having the wheels free gives you just enough to get your hands on those (*^&^~$(*& clamps. Finally just pulled the darn thing off the tank by the valve, cleaned it all up and installed it the same as before. Time permitting I may drain my transmission fluid here very soon. I have all the Redline, magnets and upgraded filter and gasket to do the job. Flex disks are good (though I believe they were part of the transmission rebuild and I changed the mount when I did the engine mounts just 6 months prior to rebuild)
 
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C126

Noticed today in the misty rain of a Houston winter that my headlight switch is a bit like broken rocks.... Luckily I will not be needing to use my parking lights as she will nor turn to the left of OFF. Ordered a new MB switch since I used my MB spare NIB for the E500 when I bought that car. MB price today was a bit cheaper than all the other aftermarkets we usually use.

*** EDIT ***

Received my new headlight switch and had 10 minutes or so to install it. Not a moment too soon! Not only did I open my order to contain a very nice Ball Cap and MB flash lite but a personal note from all the gang at Naperville thanking me and celebrating my 100th order with them! So a very nice gesture indeed. On to the headlight switch, it was 28 years old and once removed, sounded like an old fashioned baby rattle! (almost 177,115) not bad.
 
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124.036

Finally got around to getting the transmission drain - TC drain -SL filter change buttoned all back up. Been a busy Spring break and my pan/tc washers took a few days to get here. So hopefully I can get this full and checked for leaks by next weekend.

126.045

Drained the SLS fluid and replaced with new Febi as the MB dealer wanted $35 per versus Napa Febi for 12.95 and Naperville for 9.30 with no tax or shipping. Sadly I couldn't wait since I drained first and realized OOS! :DOH: So all done and the formula is less of a golden honey hue than the previous bottles of MB or Febi I have used.
 
Update

For above- its been about 30 hours since I dumped four 2 gallons of Redline D4. No runs, drips or errors so far. Cross pipe fitted right - no exhaust sounds.
 
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Hi LOUIS,

Just checking out Gerry’s new set up.

After a couple of days of thinking he crashed it, I had an e-Mail from him this AM telling me to switch to the new address.

Whew!! All is well again. I haven’t had time to get my avatar back up. I was getting to update it anyway.

BTW, Your 500E looks great! And that BIG BUCKS JACK!! What can I say??

lol
 
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For above- its been about 30 hours since I dumped 4 gallons of Redline D4. No runs, drips or errors so far. Cross pipe fitted right - no exhaust sounds.
Glad to hear it all went smoothly! (And I assume you meant 2 gallons, not 4 gallons... pretty sure you'd only get about 3 gallons in before it overflowed out the dipstick tube, lol).

:jono:
 
Glad to hear it all went smoothly! (And I assume you meant 2 gallons, not 4 gallons... pretty sure you'd only get about 3 gallons in before it overflowed out the dipstick tube, lol).

Yes 2 gallons, I cant seem to edit the post on the tapatalk app but will do so with the surface a bit later.


edit capabilities have been restored to me...fixed the thread to reflect 2 gallons D4
 
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Everytime a rug gets tossed or retired, it makes its way to the garage from the trash. The last on was oil soaked so this one was put to service. It must be 20 years old haha. I recently unrolled a yoga mat putting it under the long carpet runner in front of the bench...it isn’t complete contraband - it has the Star and Laurel logo on it :D
 
124.036

Had opportunity to test the new fluid in the transmission. Ran thru the gears automatically and by manual shift, went for 30 mile drive 80-95 MPH and I am happy to report that the upshift progression under any circumstance was like butter, as well as the downshift at 75-90 for passing. No leaks and ready to air her out in the glorious Houston Spring. Next up, a trip thru the bluebonnets in the north west country side of Houston. One note of interest to some: Rebuilt Transmission installed 2,286 miles ago, the reason for the SL filter and fresh Redline.53893ac1c8896d1cb2ee54c0b6b3a20e.jpg

53893ac1c8896d1cb2ee54c0b6b3a20e.jpg
 
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I'd like to read about your rebuilt tranny job. With 578 posts, could you shorten the search and direct me to where any discussion about the rebuilt tranny begins? Thanks
 
We had or annual Houston MBCA gtg including DFW/AUS/SAT sections. The venue is about 2 hours drive time from either location. We have BBQ lunch then proceed to a state park for a show-n-shine competition by decade. This year was around 18 cars from the 70’s, 80’s, 90’s 00’s and 10’s with many offerings in each decade making for a good competition. I will post some pictures I took, but this is not a complete list. I will add to this later in a later post, and announce the winning cars. For my 90’s interest, the spruce E500 had a 97 Red SL 500 and a Green S320.
 
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Hi Louis,

Can’t open spotty W-FI in Athens, GR,

Greetings Anyway


Its ok, it was a picture of the trophy I received for winning. I have been too busy to get the pictures from others. A black SL won the best 2000, an S550 won the best 2010, my 94 bested a 97 Red SL and a 94 S320 and a 300SD won the 80's, 70's was a grey SL. Much represented in all decades from all parts of the state.
 
Ever get that annoying wind noise in your 25+ aged E500E? While I did not do a HOW -TO: Replacing window run, there are several steps you should refer to in the section. The FSM basically says remove the door card, remove the inside scrape with plastic tool.

GVZ has HOW-TO: found here: https://www.500eboard.co/forums/ind...-and-lubricating-e500e-door-check-strap.6685/

So this is just common sense anytime you have the door card off. Check strap and regulator lube! Clean out detritus in the bottom of door, then lower your window.

Next is to have your plastic trim tool ready, the blunt end not a sharp end. This will be used to assist in pressure fitting the window run in the channel. Using the plastic tool, gently prise out the seal. I used the forward intersection of the door and window frame. Once you get it started by pulling away, use your fingers and gently yank it off all the way around. If yours is like mine, several areas did not have any felt left, thus the wind noise.

Next is to install the rubber into the channel. The FSM says to use a soap solution to lubricate the seal. KY jelly is water soluble and works as nicely. I just used my thumb and index finger to squeeze the two ends together, and lined up the upper aft, pre-molded corner in, applying some pressure with my blunt plastic tool. As far as lubrication goes, I really only needed it at the final stages - the vertical portions at the hidden areas in the door. I actually used wet suit silicone spray that is not harmful to the environs or the rubber. The forward channel run - spray the run (use soapy water or ky lightly on rubber and channel). Get the bottom of the seal seated for 2-3 inches, then push the seal down and insert a few inches more until it is done, it is just that simple. My experience from the FSM differs in that I did not see the need to remove the window regulator bolt for the glass.

Once installed, I reviewed the orientation making several checks for uniform seating in the window frame. Then slowly raise the window a bit at a time, verification of proper alignment of the moving glass within the seal. It should be academic from there. The window will seat the high spots of your rubber insertion, but go slow, checking both sides of the door frame for install integrity. Intuitive as you go, but it takes longer to remove the door card than it did to actually install the new rubber.

DS p/n 124 725 07 25 and it runs ~$38 from Naperville delivered with code. This is a 7-10 day order from Germany depending on the day of the week you order.

8304883049
 

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Been very busy of late with work, but wanted to post an update. I took the C126 to Dallas round trip to move my daughter to a new apartment. Needing the bigger trunk, the S-Klasse was to go to choice. with 179,800 on the clock, she performed wonderfully over the 3.5 hour drive each way. Gas mileage on the highway is pretty nice, and the ride on the 28 year old car was very nice. Usually in my wife's A207 the smaller racing seat with orthopedics usually numb my hip on this drive. The old suspension springs in the seats (recently repaired to be fair). Point is, Bruno would be happy to know just how comfortable after almost 30 years this car rides. I averaged about 78 mph for most of the trip and it was truly the easiest long term drive I have had. One side effect of the trip, I noticed that the antenna grommet was in need of repair. Upon arrival home, 2 MB grommets were waiting for me 126-827-14-98. One installed and the other placed in reserve for 30 years from now :D
 
It’s good to know that the rubber antenna grommets are available again. I replaced mine about 2014-2015 when in Houston; had one extra in my deep parts reserve. I think ÜRO makes them but we all know about Chinese rubber....
 
I too was surprised the grommet order was fulfilled, and it was shipped next day. Odd feeling when there isn't any car stuff that has pressing needs, even between cycles of fluid refreshing.
 
I too was surprised the grommet order was fulfilled, and it was shipped next day. Odd feeling when there isn't any car stuff that has pressing needs, even between cycles of fluid refreshing.
I'm sure I could find some "pressing needs" .... 💄
 
Well my B pillars have been professionally recovered and they sit in the boot awaiting install. My fluids on both the w124 and the c126 are up to date, no leaks as of yesterday and nothing consumed on the trip other than gas so I am feeling pretty good. (this is just about the time when there is that sinking feeling the differential is going to explode all over the street in a bazillion pieces)
 
Dad’s 94 E420 got my attention this weekend. Its the first time we met, after I acquired the car last winter and had it shipped to Ohio. Polar white over grey - non ASR. Solid driver, buttery but tight transmission, shocks and struts had been replaced during its life. I cleaned all the evidence of a weeping PS Short hose, and replaced it with new. Old hose was barely 1.75” long and had just became porous. S hose and long hose were not leaking. Replaced Fuel pressure regulator and not a moment too soon as it was leaking. Replaced vacuum connections and 4 brittle lines. Inside I changed out cluster lights. Light sockets on tail lamps had some corrosion as I expected a PNW car to have. Dad had. New Bosh battery put in and the master cylinder may have been replaced - the reservoir was showroom new. Engine mounts doing their job, rubber on stock wheels in great shape. Wish I had more time with it, Dad is 79 this year and loves the car!
 
Louis, did you ever get the 38-pin socket sorted out, and the battery drain solved, on your dad's E420?

:apl:
 
Louis, did you ever get the 38-pin socket sorted out, and the battery drain solved, on your dad's E420?

:apl:
Yes, the wires were taken care of and are insulated, They will not arc or corrode. They are not in the connector either. Safe for another visit when solo - no blink codes.

The LH Was the issue, so that was replaced and a new relay. Back burner stuff for now.
 
Some "OLD Removed" short hose money shots. It took a jumbo can of CRC to get the area clean, and another half for the pulley on the ac unit, the compressor and the frame rail hoses🤮
 

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What I did when replacing the short hose was add a little length to it, probably almost a full centimeter. I also put two ring clamps at each end for added security.

I recommend that you (or your dad) tighten the ring clamp screws in a few weeks. The rubber compresses after a while, so a little extra snugging a bit down the road is a good thing to do.
 
Yes I used about 2.15” with a slight angle to match the 12mm nipple orientation. I left the clamps at easy access and showed him what to tighten next week and reminded him that the air temp sensor must be reinstalled or a
CEL is stuck on until I rewire the diagnostic connector. OOOO reminded while typing, removed the horn over the resistor, removed the sarcophagus and cut a larger air hole in the corner under the Air tube to help cool that resistor.
 
E500 - found a bit of a red mess when getting the E500 ready for its next few months of use after taking some time off. First thing I did was to check out the Short hose I replaced some time ago and she was dry, and so was the back of the reservoir. CHECK!

Replaced an original S hose today and the replaced unit was a MB hose with a 91 date code, so it was a good replace. I have ordered a length for the long hose, and will endeavor to get that installed. MEH. I am in the watch and see mode, and that includes the high pressure hose. I have a sick feeling that is also original to the car and giving me some "spray" action. I split a length of the heat shield from stock and will see how that goes. My wetness was the mount cooler tube, the transmission cooler line and the AC wiring, all of which could be from spray, weeping or combination of both from the S hose and the HP Hose. I will monitor consumption and location of the evidence over the next few drives. At this age, I might as well do both the HP and the long hose. The HP hose for the SLS was replaced prior to my ownership.

Also, I took advantage of the time I had manufactured to replace the PS window rail felt. This was a bit more challenging than the DS, only because the leading edge insertion into the door kept popping out. Finally got it to stay in with an old golf club shaft as I inched up the window.

127,725
 
My Dad called to break the news - his stock radiator neck developed a crack and it will require a new Nissans. It has been ordered for 198 usd free ship lifetime replacement. I sent the GVZ how to in paper form for him to do the deed.
 

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