Who is rebuilding your engine? I'm planning similar work with mine.
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Owner - darek_u
- Thread starter darek_u
- Start date
Febi mounts in there! The ‘Germany’ bit is misleading as it does not acually mean they are made in Germany. Does it say anywhere on the mounts or packing where they are made?
I guess if you have them on hand just fit them and see if they last a decent number of years. Maybe Gixer is more familiar with the m119 engine mount situation but I know Lemforder M104 mounts are now made in China. Worrying times
It's a knockoff mount, definitely not OEM. Hard to tell much beyond that without cutting one open for inspection.
Pic below shows some differences between OEM Boge (in Lemforder box, few years ago) and a Corteco with no identifying markings.
More pictures here:
http://www.w124performance.com/images/M119/engine_mounts/engine_mount_124-240-26-17/
Attachments
Well, I'm afraid I'll have to live with them and see how they hold. After 2 months of chasing ghost (Lemforder that is) I decided to go for what is available. After rejecting the undoubtful garbage that here in EU is represented by Topran, Meyle etc. I was left with Febi and Swag. I guess I would find the same part in both boxes...
Kamylek. I'm pretty sure you know who I'm talking about
of course, I was wondering if it's his job.BTW I saw his posts on this board
Wysłane z mojego SM-T805 przy użyciu Tapatalka
Time for update. After a very long waiting I got my car back this month. By all means it was worth to wait for so long. Engine and bottom of the car are fully rebuild. The engine runs incredibly smooth, absolutely zero vibration and unwanted noise. Fantastic! What has been done - full rebuild, literally everything except for crank and pistons was overhauled/repaired/resealed/cleaned etc. Lot of new parts, hardware and metal parts zinc coated or powder coated. Metal oiler tubes installed, new HEPU water pump. New chip - I think (but could be wrong here) it's a Renntech chip that removes top speed limiter, bumps up max. revs and power up to 350 HP. Transmission was just checked and cleaned, it was in very good shape. I think that NSS switch was replaced along with modulator. Here are before pics of the engine:
And after:
Bottom of the car was fully overhauled as well. All components were dropped down and underbody treated with new protective coat and paint where necessary. All rust spots were removed. All cavities were protected with liquid wax as well. All new front and rear suspension components except for shocks and springs - they were in very good condition so I decided to leave them intact. Brakes upgraded to SL600 calipers. I finally sold the performance exhaust and replaced it with used stock cats and IMASAF middle and rear mufflers. So quiet now!
Car rides very good however a little too harsh for me. Now I know that it's all because of H&R springs - I'm planing on going back to stock here. Braking is improved however I ordered Porterfield R4-S as advised here to improve it even more.
What still needs to be done - I need to adjust Bowden cable and modulator to have perfect gear change. Unfortunately the rear main seal is leaking oil slightly... There is a slight groove on the crank and it's seeping oil, no matter how the seal is installed. I'll be installing the "repair size" seal next, I have some questions about it, I think I'll start a new thread about it soon.
And after:
Bottom of the car was fully overhauled as well. All components were dropped down and underbody treated with new protective coat and paint where necessary. All rust spots were removed. All cavities were protected with liquid wax as well. All new front and rear suspension components except for shocks and springs - they were in very good condition so I decided to leave them intact. Brakes upgraded to SL600 calipers. I finally sold the performance exhaust and replaced it with used stock cats and IMASAF middle and rear mufflers. So quiet now!
Car rides very good however a little too harsh for me. Now I know that it's all because of H&R springs - I'm planing on going back to stock here. Braking is improved however I ordered Porterfield R4-S as advised here to improve it even more.
What still needs to be done - I need to adjust Bowden cable and modulator to have perfect gear change. Unfortunately the rear main seal is leaking oil slightly... There is a slight groove on the crank and it's seeping oil, no matter how the seal is installed. I'll be installing the "repair size" seal next, I have some questions about it, I think I'll start a new thread about it soon.
There is NO WAY that a chip could provide 30 extra HP, and the RENNtech chip (which many of us have and have tested in our cars) definitely DOES NOT provide +30HP.
It was nice hype and a good money-maker for them back in the day, especially when paired with the carbon fiber airbox “upgrade” (another item I personally tested with no power increase).
Indeed, for most folks the H&R springs are too low and too harsh. Best to adjust with 1-bump pads and a bit of SLS tweaking for the rear.
It was nice hype and a good money-maker for them back in the day, especially when paired with the carbon fiber airbox “upgrade” (another item I personally tested with no power increase).
Indeed, for most folks the H&R springs are too low and too harsh. Best to adjust with 1-bump pads and a bit of SLS tweaking for the rear.
Like I said I'm not sure what kind of chip it is - I just got 2nd LH computer with WOT and this chip. I don't want to use butt dyno to measure the results, I have a friendly professional dyno in the neighborhood, I'll pay them a visit one day and post the results. In fact it wasn't my intention to bump up the power, car has enough HP for easy cruising, I was justy curious.
I have three different aftermarket chips (including the RENNtech one) in my parts stock, and I tested all three of them 13-14 years ago. None of them did squat in terms of acceleration or top speed. GSXR has also tested several on his cars over the years.
WOT LH unit will give you 7-10 HP, but again ONLY at WOT application, not during normal cruising/driving. Again, a common misperception of what the WOT LH unit does.
WOT LH unit will give you 7-10 HP, but again ONLY at WOT application, not during normal cruising/driving. Again, a common misperception of what the WOT LH unit does.
Power is determined by fuel mixture and ignition timing. WOT module gets you in the right mixture range thus the few more extra ponies. Richer will give you less, leaner will give you less. Ignition is fixed by the EZL, and fixed (max advancement with basic plug "2") maybe a tad of improvement you can get with high octane fuel. But that's speculation only.
Yet another update. I finally got rid of all the leaks - gearbox (bent oil pan - replaced with new one, resealed brake B1), rear main seal (used repair size seal), oil pan - I properly tightened all the bolts but this one needs more attention. It looks to me like the pan is bent slightly and to make it tight a lot of silicone was used. I hate silicone in any application so I'm planning on replacing the pan along with the gasket.
What bothers me now is the gearbox and how it changes the gears. 3 --> 4 is smooth as butter but 2 --> 3 is little jerky, especially under moderate load. I've already adjusted the bowden cable and vacuum modulator, it's better but still not where I would like it to be. I just need to spend more time adjusting hopefully. The other thing that bothers me is AC. It stops working after some time (compressor doesn't engage). It resets itself after the car is restarted. BM throws code 6 - belt is slipping. I had a look and it seems to be properly tightened. I plan to check on the clutch and auto belt tensioner when I get back home next week.
As I'm anal about details and stock look I had a close look at my engine bay and engine and I think I'm missing few things. I'm planning on refreshing the front of the car soon (front of engine and radiator area) as this was not done during the rebuild, this would be the perfect opportunity to address it along with few other bits and pieces. Here are the pictures, any help is much appreciated!
First - seats - am I missing the covers there, like the ones on 2nd photo?
Right side of the engine - alternator area - what is missing there? Bracket, clamp? What purpose it serves?
Left side of the engine - below the AC compressor. What attaches to the hole in red circle? Another clamp fro oil cooler hose? Blue marked hose (power steering?) - it seems to be quite loose now, shouldn't it attach to something? The spiral in blue circle - it looks awful and I want to refinish it. It came painted or zinc coated from the factory? What color?
Ball joints for steering linkage - I think they should some kind of heat shields. Am I right? EPC numbers would be much appreciated, photo of the correct setup as well...
Fuel lines in engine bay area (green square) - I saw them connected together with some sort of double plastic clip in other cars. I looked through EPC but I cannot find the part number. Also the area I circled in red - does it look right for you? I mean - vacuum and cable routing, clips etc.? I have one clip broken there but I don't see anything that would attach to it...
That's a lot of questions, I know...
What bothers me now is the gearbox and how it changes the gears. 3 --> 4 is smooth as butter but 2 --> 3 is little jerky, especially under moderate load. I've already adjusted the bowden cable and vacuum modulator, it's better but still not where I would like it to be. I just need to spend more time adjusting hopefully. The other thing that bothers me is AC. It stops working after some time (compressor doesn't engage). It resets itself after the car is restarted. BM throws code 6 - belt is slipping. I had a look and it seems to be properly tightened. I plan to check on the clutch and auto belt tensioner when I get back home next week.
As I'm anal about details and stock look I had a close look at my engine bay and engine and I think I'm missing few things. I'm planning on refreshing the front of the car soon (front of engine and radiator area) as this was not done during the rebuild, this would be the perfect opportunity to address it along with few other bits and pieces. Here are the pictures, any help is much appreciated!
First - seats - am I missing the covers there, like the ones on 2nd photo?
Right side of the engine - alternator area - what is missing there? Bracket, clamp? What purpose it serves?
Left side of the engine - below the AC compressor. What attaches to the hole in red circle? Another clamp fro oil cooler hose? Blue marked hose (power steering?) - it seems to be quite loose now, shouldn't it attach to something? The spiral in blue circle - it looks awful and I want to refinish it. It came painted or zinc coated from the factory? What color?
Ball joints for steering linkage - I think they should some kind of heat shields. Am I right? EPC numbers would be much appreciated, photo of the correct setup as well...
Fuel lines in engine bay area (green square) - I saw them connected together with some sort of double plastic clip in other cars. I looked through EPC but I cannot find the part number. Also the area I circled in red - does it look right for you? I mean - vacuum and cable routing, clips etc.? I have one clip broken there but I don't see anything that would attach to it...
That's a lot of questions, I know...
Well, I sent couple of hours browsing through the EPC and found couple of answers (I hope). As per other thread seat rail bolt covers showed on my photo are not applicable for '93 model. I'm surprised considering the general overengineering of this car that they left visible bolts uncovered.
As far as oil cooler line - it looks like the "spring" on the rubber part should be yellow zinc coated and the hose itself should be attached to the oil pan with the clip A1209950005 - that's my best guess:
As far as the ball joint covers are concerned - I think I need 1244631290 (top) and 1244631390 (bottom), however when I type in the bottom part number into online seller catalog it returns "number not recognized" message...
My other questions are still open...
As far as oil cooler line - it looks like the "spring" on the rubber part should be yellow zinc coated and the hose itself should be attached to the oil pan with the clip A1209950005 - that's my best guess:
As far as the ball joint covers are concerned - I think I need 1244631290 (top) and 1244631390 (bottom), however when I type in the bottom part number into online seller catalog it returns "number not recognized" message...
My other questions are still open...
