OWNER - johan h

[500AMM]

Johan,

Your ride looks better and better, day by day, that's great.

I'm glad you bought the Rials. As I mentioned in my PM I did in fact hold-off those wheels for a couple of days, but I had to reconsign due to a big brake upgrade requiring a different rim set-up.

I agree with 195910 and 036 on the tyre dimensions, between 235 and 265 should be optimum on the Rials. On the Limited I first had 17"x8" ET34 Evo II fitted with 245/45. When they was down I changed to 235 and 265 I had left from another set. I have 15 mm spacers in front and 10 mm in rears. The wheels are flush with fender arc at rear and a bit more clearance in front. I had to buy longer bolts and got them from RAD GmbH:
http://www.radgmbh.com/ see also post #88 here http://www.500eboard.com/forums/sho...Monoblocks-for-500E&highlight=Ball+seat+bolts

The Vredstein Sessanta are really sexy.

-a-

 

[gerryvz]

I used 245/40s all around on my 18" Rials when I had them, no spacers. 245s are perfect for these wheels.

 

[036]

I used 245/40s all around on my 18" Rials when I had them, no spacers. 245s are perfect for these wheels.

Looked terrible without spacers, even 245.

Spacers are absolute must have for ARC800. Perfect size is 20 mm. I recommend german SCC. Payed around 225 Euros for set of spacers and bolts. Veeery light and runns perfect.
http://www.spurverbreiterung.de/

Call them, or write an email.

PS I love Fulda tyres... cheap, very robust ( i drive easily 55-60tkm), great traction in water.
http://www.reifen.com/de/TyreSize/L...e.TyreListSort=&TyreManufacturerFilterKey=104

PS2 Pics- 2 pics on correct spacers of 20mm, lasr pic- 30mm
Wouldn´t work here with TÜV.

 

[gerryvz]

I agree that the wheels look better pushed outward with spacers. However, I don't believe in using spacers on my cars, preferring to have a wheel mounted with the proper offset to fit the car and not need spacers. But that's just my own personal preference.

With my previous comment, I was referring to the width of the tire, in proportion to the width of the wheel itself. A 245/40 is a perfect tire fitment for that width of wheel.

Cheers,
Gerry

 

[036]

Gerry, you have no speed danger there...spacers runns fine till 260

 

[Jelmer]

Awesome! Congrats on your find! No feelings of jealousy here, I really think these wheels look fantastic on a E500E and we can't have enough of them

I agree on the spacers, though. I wasn't a fan of them before, but it really completes the look. I have some before-and-after pictures somewhere (did I post them? Dunno...) and the difference is substantial. 20mm is too much imho, 16mm is acceptable.

I bought my spacers from the mechanic for €100 and got some aftermarket 60mm wheel bolts that fit perfectly. With 20mm you'll need the set 036 posted, screwing the spacers into the wheel hub and then the wheel onto them again. Makes it feel a bit ... wobbly.

Did some 260km/h runs on these as well. No vibrations at all, actually the contrary: it felt a bit more secure!

And 30mm is too much, Ark.

 

[036]

And 30mm is too much, Ark.

We just had some fun with my Rimdoctor
Post some pics how yours fit, i forgot to look at them live that precisely. As lpng as TS is not posting his baby

 

[gerryvz]

The Rial ARC(ady) club is a very exclusive one..... I am now an alumnus though. Hope you all enjoy this wheel design, as I did for about 8 years....

 

[johan h]

Awesome! Congrats on your find! No feelings of jealousy here, I really think these wheels look fantastic on a E500E and we can't have enough of them

I agree on the spacers, though. I wasn't a fan of them before, but it really completes the look. I have some before-and-after pictures somewhere (did I post them? Dunno...) and the difference is substantial. 20mm is too much imho, 16mm is acceptable.

I bought my spacers from the mechanic for €100 and got some aftermarket 60mm wheel bolts that fit perfectly. With 20mm you'll need the set 036 posted, screwing the spacers into the wheel hub and then the wheel onto them again. Makes it feel a bit ... wobbly.

Did some 260km/h runs on these as well. No vibrations at all, actually the contrary: it felt a bit more secure!

And 30mm is too much, Ark.

Thanks Jelmer! You and i are a fantastic couple now..

So you said that the car becomes unstable with spacers. Hm... So if i want to go bana and do all in it becomes nervous?

I think i have to decide the tires and then choose wich bolts and spacers to go with them.

 

[Jelmer]

Thanks Jelmer! You and i are a fantastic couple now..

I ... err... well... you're talking about the cars, right?

So you said that the car becomes unstable with spacers. Hm... So if i want to go bana and do all in it becomes nervous?

I -personally- don't like the double-wheelbolt-method, but as Arkady said: his car is as stable as a rock, even at sustained 260km/h runs (and oh boy did we test that ... ). With the thinner (16mm) sets you can use single, 60mm bolts that bolt directly from the wheel to the wheelhub. I like that solution better, somehow. I've tested that as well on the Autobahn and it feels perfect.

I guess what I'm trying to say is that both options CAN be done, but in both ways you need to pay very good attention to the spacers, the mountings, the bolts, etc.

 

[500AMM]

Hallo

Some considerations on "spurverbreiterung":

A bolted concentric spacer is better than longer bolts because the stretch in the bolt material is spread over two different bolted connections - the spacer bolts and the wheel bolts. Hence the risk for overloaded long bolts causing flexing and in worst case fattigue and fracture is reduced accordingly. I think most bolted spacers start at about 20mm and up?

Another thing often neglected when installing beefy spacers is adjustment of the wheel geometry. When the wheel is moved outwards the load point on the suspension is also moved so the suspension is compressed a bit more. The camber will be affected, the same as when lowering the car. At rear it will be less grip and uneven tire wear, plus at front it will also affect the steering geometry. Keep in mind that when the car stand still i.e. static load, is different from when driving i.e. dynamic loads. So a camber adjustment/check plus test driving should be smart.

My 2 cents

 

[johan h]

I ... err... well... you're talking about the cars, right?


I -personally- don't like the double-wheelbolt-method, but as Arkady said: his car is as stable as a rock, even at sustained 260km/h runs (and oh boy did we test that ... ). With the thinner (16mm) sets you can use single, 60mm bolts that bolt directly from the wheel to the wheelhub. I like that solution better, somehow. I've tested that as well on the Autobahn and it feels perfect.

I guess what I'm trying to say is that both options CAN be done, but in both ways you need to pay very good attention to the spacers, the mountings, the bolts, etc.

No worry Jelmer

What dimensions do you run on your rims?

Hallo

Some considerations on "spurverbreiterung":

A bolted concentric spacer is better than longer bolts because the stretch in the bolt material is spread over two different bolted connections - the spacer bolts and the wheel bolts. Hence the risk for overloaded long bolts causing flexing and in worst case fattigue and fracture is reduced accordingly. I think most bolted spacers start at about 20mm and up?

Another thing often neglected when installing beefy spacers is adjustment of the wheel geometry. When the wheel is moved outwards the load point on the suspension is also moved so the suspension is compressed a bit more. The camber will be affected, the same as when lowering the car. At rear it will be less grip and uneven tire wear, plus at front it will also affect the steering geometry. Keep in mind that when the car stand still i.e. static load, is different from when driving i.e. dynamic loads. So a camber adjustment/check plus test driving should be smart.

My 2 cents

My friend have decent rubber for me (yes i still talk about cars). He has 245-40-18 and 265-35-18. What do you think of that? Then i should run spacers on the backwheels and not on the front if i get this correct?

 

[johan h]

I got them from Vienna a couple of days ago and they are in very good condition. Is Rial MB original or aftermarket? If they are original what cars where they original fitted to?:

 

[gerryvz]

They are 100% aftermarket equipment, but of good quality. Never came standard on any MB from the factory.

 

[sheward]

My friend have decent rubber for me (yes i still talk about cars). [/QUOTE] Now that's funny!

I really wish I'd have bought Gerrys Rials when I had a chance. I think they are possibly the best looking wheel for E500Es. Nice find, Johan. I believe these are virtually unobtainium here in the states.

drew

 

[Jelmer]

What dimensions do you run on your rims?

Also 245.

 

[johan h]

I really wish I'd have bought Gerrys Rials when I had a chance. I think they are possibly the best looking wheel for E500Es. Nice find, Johan. I believe these are virtually unobtainium here in the states.

drew

I agree with you Drew. The original look of them but that they makes the car look a bit sharper.

Also 245.

And you run original bolts and no spacers then?

 

[Jelmer]

And you run original bolts and no spacers then?

No, I have new bolts with 60mm long thread.

To quote myself:

With the thinner (16mm) sets you can use single, 60mm bolts that bolt directly from the wheel to the wheelhub. I like that solution better, somehow. I've tested that as well on the Autobahn and it feels perfect.

If you go above 16mm that's not an option, and you'll need a set like 036 showed (i.e., bolt spacer to wheelhub with short bolts, bolt wheel to spacer).

 

[johan h]

No, I have new bolts with 60mm long thread.

To quote myself:


If you go above 16mm that's not an option, and you'll need a set like 036 showed (i.e., bolt spacer to wheelhub with short bolts, bolt wheel to spacer).

Then 16mm is suitable for both 245, 255 and 265? This seems like scienece to me haha

 

[036]

Then 16mm is suitable for both 245, 255 and 265? This seems like scienece to me haha

What i know for sure- 225-20, 245-16

 

[johan h]

After some consideration i will go for the 235-40-18s with 20 mm spacers. I don´t want to risk the proportions and the looks of the car.


The car passed MOT a couple of days ago. I was a bit worried over that the M119s tend to cold to fast and give crappy exhaust measurments. My E420 had that problem even though i runned it an hour before to get really warm it did cooled down to much when the MOT inspector turned it of. I did a serious warm up and it was ok.

Here is the fun part:
[video=youtube;j6lRhJyleQI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j6lRhJyleQI[/video]

Finaly i sold my 2003 Audi A3 wich has costed me almost 8000EUR in two years (i am not kidding). I bought a 1997 C250 TDT with almost 400 000km on the
clock and i enjoy every bit of it! And i love the roar of that five cylinder engine.

Almost as powerfull as the 500 (?):
[video=youtube;T5y7PgrDLoE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5y7PgrDLoE[/video]

[video=youtube;mfjGQ2K_zeo]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mfjGQ2K_zeo[/video]

 

[johan h]

And some Instagram pictures:

 

[Jelmer]

Almost as powerfull as the 500 (?):

No. The 500 keeps climbing after 200km/h. So your video isn't accurate: the fun part STARTS at 200km/h

 

[johan h]

No. The 500 keeps climbing after 200km/h. So your video isn't accurate: the fun part STARTS at 200km/h

I must say i was a coward on those videos. I must open the key to pandora and press beyond 200 next time

 

[johan h]

I did my last Mercedes trip before storing it for the winter. It was a trip with a MB-club to Stockholm and some really fun and fast driving on curvy roads! It was a challenge to catch up with a modified SLK 32 AMG with separate intercooling, R-tires etc. and a stunning CL65 AMG..

Here are some pictures:

This road must be one of Swedens beautiest road! Absolute stunning!

The beast is cathing up!

I got my spacers this week and they are a peace of art! After a lot of consideration and stupid questions to many members of this board (sorry to you all!!) i will go for the 245/45-18 Michelin Pilot Sport:

Regarding the gearbox i founded this video by Mercedesscource and Kent Bergsman about leakage of the 722-3 transmission. Not exactly the identical but he counted to 14 different points where it was high risk of leakage. I have got a estimate of 15 000 SEK (2 349USD or 1738EUR) then they will remove the transmission, reseal and change every wearingparts and then put it in the car and tune it to perfection. I probaby will do this next summer.

The Youtubevideo:
[video=youtube;z-mjwg1-Wzs]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z-mjwg1-Wzs[/video]

 

[diaconovic]

I got my spacers this week and they are a peace of art! After a lot of consideration and stupid questions to many members of this board (sorry to you all!!) i will go for the 245/45-18 Michelin Pilot Sport:

Thanks for the pictures !!!
245/40/18 is the perfect size ( not 245/45 , it's too high not good)

 

[johan h]

Thanks for the pictures !!!
245/40/18 is the perfect size ( not 245/45 , it's too high not good)

Thanks! Sorry i have simulated so much possible (and ompossible) combinations of rubbersize so i typed in the wrong one. You are absolutley correct about that!!

 

[johan h]

I got the headlight out because the right headlight was only attached with one screw since the change to the pre facelifted hood. I ordered the factory repair kit with all neccesary bolts, washers and nuts (A1248260100). I was forced to remove the whole unit to get everything in place but it was an easy job after removing the wipers. I am considering though to refit them since i want it as original as is can be:

These washers are easy damaged but is included in the kit:

I tested to mount my rial to. It is hard to se the results and they look smaller than the original 8-hole since it has no rubber yet:

The spacer mounted:

Without spacers:

With 20 mm spacers:

I took some pictures of the EZL, the control units etc. just to have the numbers if i want to order some spare parts. One strange thing was the ASR unit that was 12 cylinder (?). I checked with the picture on the same module in the Wiki area and that was ASR 8 cyl. What is the difference?

 

[KarlC]

Look good, nice work !

Post up some photos of the spacers with the wheels and tires when you are all done.

 

[johan h]

Look good, nice work !

Post up some photos of the spacers with the wheels and tires when you are all done.

Thanks! I post photos as soon as i got the rubber. I must get a better camera! The Iphone 4 (no S!!!) takes crappy pictures in the dark!

 

[johan h]

I replaced my old iPhone 4 with a brand new 5S and yesterday i went to the garage to start the car after several months of sleep. I did took som photos and is very satisfied with the result. The car started just fine despite no charging on the battery.

 

[johan h]

I got some pictures of the restoration today from my friend/the previously owner of my car. I am glad to se this car coming back to life:

 

[036/199]

This is really an amazing transformation!

And those Rial wheels are beautiful!

 

[johan h]

This is really an amazing transformation!

And those Rial wheels are beautiful!

Thanks! It sure is a heroes work on the car i must say. I can´t wait to get some Michelins on those rims!

 

[johan h]

test

 

[gsxr]

test

Fail. (kidding!)

 

[johan h]

So i had finaly gathered all the required bits and pieces to change the coolingfluid. The fluid that was in the car was clear and blue so that felt good
but the main reason for changing is so i know what and when that is done and it gives me the chance to change the reservoirs, clamps etc.


Anothter thing you can see on this picture is the broken holder of the swaybar. I have a new one but i don´t know if it is attached in the transverse controlarm?
Is it just to remove the bolt from it or is everything falling apart?

I took the easy root and just emptying the fluid on the radiator. I added water only and started the car to get the water circulate before emptying it again.

These ugly bastards will be changed with new ones. I have them in place but no pictures yet. The setbacks was the really bad hose between expansion and
overflow tank.i Had to cut it and it is pretty short but it works. I added a hoseclamp and i will change it with a new 800mm next winter. The other setback
was the lack of a seal in the cooling level indicator and it now has som slight leaking from it. I will order the seal. Another setback is with the washer fluid reservoir
that simply just don´t fit?!? It has the part number: A124 869 07 20.

Some of the new parts:

I replaced the fitting since it leaked slightly and i managed to break the fitting in the radiator..

I tried several tactics but this made it tighten more since it pressed the fittings outwards.

I removed the radiatorhose and took a pincer and pressed the remainings downwards.

Now i have to order the remaining seals etc. and i need to investigate what is wrong with the washerfluid reservoir.


Other things that has happend is: New caps and rotors, new sparkplugs, older Mercedes-Benz airfilterbox, older LH-module
with WOT and brand new Michelin Pilots Sport 3, 245 40 18 for my Rials.

More pictures on this project will come.

Here are some new pictures:

 

[gsxr]

The replacement washer fluid reservoirs are shaped slightly different and do not fit properly, they won't go down far enough. Look at the bottom, compare new to old, you'll see the difference. The new one has a larger diameter section that sticks down and doesn't go into the frame bracket properly. It's a manufacturing flaw.

Replace the coolant level sensor with new OE or Hella, and make sure to only use an OE seal ring. If you snapped the fitting for the aeration hose at the radiator, you can replace that too, it's available separately and it's relatively cheap.

 

[johan h]

So if the new one has larger diameter then i maybe can grind the plastic to make it fit properly? Or crack the plastic bracket and reglue it further down.

I checked the old reservoir and found the old seal that was in good condition to re use. The fitting is replaced with a brand new one so i have started to fill the reservoir now. Just need to find the rest of the seals to the washerfluid reservoir so i can fix it.




Skickas från min iPhone via Tapatalk

 

[bing]

Johan, I encountered the same re washer reservoir and like you was scratching my head as to why it would not fit. Yes , the bracket don't line up when compared to original one . Dave is right , it's a stupid flaw.

Saying that it will fit as is ! You just have to press down hard enough for the long plastic nut to bite and all you really need is 2 or 3 turns which will secure it enough.

 

[gsxr]

Bing is correct, it will work as-is, but it won't fit as nicely as the original.

The PO of my 92 had a creative solution, he modified the bottom metal bracket in the frame so it was lower, by the amount needed for the new reservoir. Neat trick, but a lot of work.

 

[johan h]

Yes it is sure a stupid flaw and i could not understand why it did not fit others that i got the wrong reservoir. I will modify it to make it fit nicley


Skickas från min iPhone via Tapatalk

 

[johan h]

Here are some pictures on the result. I just need to order some rubber sealings etc. and new foamhoses to the aircleaner.

 

[johan h]

It is time to change the bracket to the swaybar on the passenger side. Since it has snapped of i can´t really see
where it is attached under the car. Does anyone know if it is attached on the transverse control arm? Is it just
to unbolt it or does everything fall apart? Maybe someone has a picture?

I started the car today and the idle were very rough! I heard a ticking noice from the back of the engine. After a short while the
rough idle and noice went away (?) and it runned smooth as usual (?). When i had the bad distributors and caps it was in the
other way and it went rough when it was warm (?).

Another thing that caught my attention was the ticking noice of this device (with the arrow and the text MOT.) As i understand
this thing was making no noice when i started the car but after a while it made some ticking noice. It has done this before (?).

 

[gsxr]

It is time to change the bracket to the swaybar on the passenger side. Since it has snapped of i can´t really see where it is attached under the car. Does anyone know if it is attached on the transverse control arm? Is it just to unbolt it or does everything fall apart? Maybe someone has a picture?

The ends of the sway bar attach to the control arms. The middle attaches to the bracket, which bolts to the chassis. See photo below.

Another thing that caught my attention was the ticking noice of this device (with the arrow and the text MOT.) As i understand this thing was making no noice when i started the car but after a while it made some ticking noice. It has done this before (?).

The MOT thingy is part of the fuel tank venting system. The clicking is normal.

 

[johan h]

The ends of the sway bar attach to the control arms. The middle attaches to the bracket, which bolts to the chassis. See photo below.



The MOT thingy is part of the fuel tank venting system. The clicking is normal.

Thanks Dave! Then it should be a pretty straight forward work.

 

[johan h]

I raised the car again today to replace the broken bracket for the swaybar.

I don´t know how this could brake but it can have something to do with the crash.

This bolt was to hard to remove so i need some extension to attach to the tools. I will wait with this..

I could not understand why the new bracket was not aligned but here was the answer. The whole
swaybar has moved 1.5 mm to the drivers side!!

 

[baviking1]

Wow Johan, I just read your thread!! Amazing resto, and very inspriring (I KNOW I can do it now)!!

I forgot we both had the rare Rosewood cars; here's the pic of my E420 you asked for long ago (getting senile& too busy). Never mind the photoshopped wheels (didnt go with those, haha)..

 

[johan h]

Wow Johan, I just read your thread!! Amazing resto, and very inspriring (I KNOW I can do it now)!!

I forgot we both had the rare Rosewood cars; here's the pic of my E420 you asked for long ago (getting senile& too busy). Never mind the photoshopped wheels (didnt go with those, haha)..
View attachment 27478

Thank you so much! The restoration part is so much fun. Since we got a season of approx 5 months here in Sweden the restoration part is a big part of my car interest since i do not drive the car in the winter. It is a perfect way of keeping my hobby alive the whole year.

Of course you can do it! With some dedication and the amazing peoples and theirs knowledge on this forum nothing is impossible to do.

I love that E420 and i am grateful to se pictures off it. I am following your restoration thread and i am looking forward to see the progress. You are a hero that saves that car!

 

[johan h]

Finaly the rubber is on the rims! I will post pictures of them mounted on the car tomorrow. Stay tuned..