Part # needed broken tubes while injector replacement.

[Niko]

Part # needed broken tubes while injector replacement.

Pls help. On the photo you can see the black tape, also can t see any number from the plastic which became

cauchuc after 20 years...

Thanks


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[Niko]

Sorry for the bad quality, will remove them this weekend.


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[gsxr]

You will need to replace ALL of the PCV tubes... they are supposed to be soft rubber, and I bet yours are all fossilized and feel like brittle plastic.

About $200 for all of them, diagram & part numbers are in post #6 in this thread:
http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?1488-breather-hose-(-)-replacement

Pretty common repair item, once replaced, they should last another 15-20 years. The large tube (of the three which go to the passenger side valve cover) which connects to the ETA, requires removal of the ETA to replace. If you plan on doing that one, order an ETA gasket also.

 

[Niko]

Fast question - can this be causing my bad performance when hot - trembling, misfire, loss of power... Thanks!


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[gsxr]

Fast question - can this be causing my bad performance when hot - trembling, misfire, loss of power... Thanks!

If one of those tubes is broken, missing, or leaking... YES! It can cause a major vacuum leak!! Fix them immediately!!

 

[Niko]

That s what i thought. One of them is broken and one is suspected for leaking.


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[clarkz71]

The lower of the 3 on the ETA is a bitch.

I changed all 3 including the white unuion/connectors
When I did my ISC/CC unit.

I keep 2 in stock, if I have to pull the throttle body for any reason a new hose goes on.

Vader

 

[Niko]

The lower of the 3 on the ETA is a bitch.

I changed all 3 including the white unuion/connectors
When I did my ISC/CC unit.

I keep 2 in stock, if I have to pull the throttle body for any reason a new hose goes on.

Vader

I received all of them without 119 094 44 82 HOSE THROTTLE HOUSING from Autohauz today. Paid 200$ Cad + this one will pick it up Monday from the dealer - 40$ CAD.
Have noticed that i need to pull the throttle body, do you have any advice? I think the number on the sticker is 05 thus 2005 no bad wiring but not 100% sure, after i remove the MAF will be clear. Thanks


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[emerydc8]

I think it would be very difficult to replace the ETA hose without pulling it out. Definitely, the old hose will be as hard as a rock. Getting the new hose on would be a difficult task too.

Maybe this will help. http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?4009-ETA-Replacement

The second pic shows the hose. It disappears behind the ETA. You'd have to be really good to replace that one with the ETA in place.

 

[Niko]

Yes - i will pull out the ETA for sure. Have read your tread, thanks. The MAF has two springs only in order to remove it, right?


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[emerydc8]

The MAF has no springs. It is held on with a large hose clamp that you can usually reach with a long screwdriver or 1/4" extension.

There is one spring hooked to the throttle linkage on the side of the ETA. The other end hooks under the runners toward the front. I read a post once where a guy let the spring come undone under the runners and it took him hours to get it hooked back up there. He highly recommended that you hook a rubber band to the spring once you pop it off the ETA so there is tension on it and it will not come undone.

You can see the rubber band on the second to last pic in my post on this.

 

[Niko]

The MAF has no springs. It is held on with a large hose clamp that you can usually reach with a long screwdriver or 1/4" extension.

There is one spring hooked to the throttle linkage on the side of the ETA. The other end hooks under the runners toward the front. I read a post once where a guy let the spring come undone under the runners and it took him hours to get it hooked back up there. He highly recommended that you hook a rubber band to the spring once you pop it off the ETA so there is tension on it and it will not come undone.

You can see the rubber band on the second to last pic in my post on this.

Thanks
I see 2 hose clamps ( one under another ) and assume the first one is for the MAF only because it is almost impossible for me to work on the bottom one with the MAF installed.



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[emerydc8]

Thanks
I see 2 hose clamps ( one under another ) and assume the first one is for the MAF only because it is almost impossible for me to work on the bottom one with the MAF installed.



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Correct. The bottom clamp connects the sleeve to the ETA. If you have time to order it, the rubber sleeve would be good to renew as well. You can usually get away with reusing the old one though.

 

[samiam44]

While the car may need vacuum lines- the line with hose clamps on it is the vacuum booster line [for the power brakes]. Not terribly expensive new, but definitely a decent thing to pickup via pick'n'pull.


Michael

 

[Niko]

Correct. The bottom clamp connects the sleeve to the ETA. If you have time to order it, the rubber sleeve would be good to renew as well. You can usually get away with reusing the old one though.

I had difficulty removing the rubber sleeve and will renew it as well, it is just 20$ and think this is a good time to do such. The good thing is that my ETA is 03M5 thus 2003 and i am very happy the previous owner did it. Also had to buy the lower throttle hose from the stealership - 40$... Will work on the car tomorrow.

 

[emerydc8]

Did you get the gasket for the bottom of the ETA?

 

[Niko]

Did you get the gasket for the bottom of the ETA?

Yes, yes, it came with my hoses.

There is a cord connection (on the body) on the other side of the spring, i think that opens the valve, is it easy business to pull it out? Sorry to repeat if already discussed but after i re-install the ETA do i need to do any re-learn procedure or just plug and play?
Thanks for your time.


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[emerydc8]

There is a cord connection (on the body) on the other side of the spring, i think that opens the valve, is it easy business to pull it out?

I'm not sure I understand what you are referring to. The spring I was referring to hooks under the intake runners towards the front of the engine. I wasn't able to see where exactly it hooks up in there. The other end hooks to the linkage on the right side of the ETA. I just unhooked the spring at the ETA and used a rubber band to hook it onto part of the intake to keep tension on the spring so it wouldn't fall off in front while I was replacing the ETA.

The cable connection to the ETA just pops off with a screwdriver. As far as the relearn procedures, I didn't do it on mine because I had read that another member replaced his ETA and didn't do it either. I had no issues with it, so it was plug-and-play for me.

 

[Niko]

I saw linkage on the opposite side of the spring on the ETA. Will double check tomorrow. Thanks again!!!


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[clarkz71]

Like Jon said, relearn is not mandatory and I have never had to do it.

 

[Niko]

OK... It was not easy to remove the ETA, very tight place... I cleaned it well with throttle body spray but unfortunately when re-installing it the yellow small tube broke (the prior position was over the ETA). Pls help!

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[Glen]

I think that's the vacuum source for the EZL so it's pretty important. Replace the tube completely with new, don't bother trying to repair the existing one.

 

[Niko]

Thanks do you know any part number?


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[gsxr]

Vac tube is 000-158-14-35 and is sold by the meter, and it's cheap. Buy a few meters, the same stuff is used all over the car...

 

[Niko]

Thank you guys, i am eager to drive it but since it is that important will wait a little.


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[clarkz71]

.


Yep, goes from a fitting just behind the ETA and runs straight to the EZL, one piece.

 

[Niko]

My advice when replacing the vacuum lines: make sure you buy the rubber sleeve between the MAF & ETA and the EZL vacuum hose, good time to replace them and not expensive. I had to wait 1 week for the parts because i didn t plan them in the beginning.