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Possible Group Buy EVO2 Wheels (Maxilite Replicas)

How does the ride on these compare to the stock 8 holes? My tires are in need of replacing so if I want new wheels now is a good time. I just love the ride on mine. At 24 lbs are they about 5 lbs a corner more than the 8 holes?
 
How does the ride on these compare to the stock 8 holes? My tires are in need of replacing so if I want new wheels now is a good time. I just love the ride on mine. At 24 lbs are they about 5 lbs a corner more than the 8 holes?
With a 245/45/17 tire (or coupled with a 275/40/17 tire) the ride will be a bit firmer, but not too harsh. But I’m not at liberty to know how the weight of these wheels will play into the overall feel.

The [forged HRE] front wheels I’m running are 17x8.5” and weigh 17.4 lbs, the rear wheels are 17x9.5” and weigh 18.6 lbs. To me, the car feels lighter in turns than when I had the factory 16” wheels. Tires weight also plays into the feel. I’m on lighter tires from Continental, ExtremeContact Sport.
 
How does the ride on these compare to the stock 8 holes? My tires are in need of replacing so if I want new wheels now is a good time. I just love the ride on mine. At 24 lbs are they about 5 lbs a corner more than the 8 holes?
Stock 8-hole E500E wheels (8.0x16 ET34) are also 24 lbs each, ±3% or so. As szvook mentioned above, if you are concerned about weight, also check the tire weight spec. Some are much heavier than others.
 
@dionphaneu, I run 18” Michelin Super Sports last generation. I downsized from 255/35 & 285/40 to 245/35 & 275/40 the weight savings on the 275 rears was huge the time (like 5# per tire) and my car rides great.

I wouldn’t even hesitate to go to the 17” EVOs! IMOP, If you select Michelin’s or Continentals ride should be NO PROBLEM. Definitely spend the $$$ for quality tires.

I qualify this by saying that your suspension is in good condition as well as alignment. :jono:

lol
 
How does the ride on these compare to the stock 8 holes? My tires are in need of replacing so if I want new wheels now is a good time. I just love the ride on mine. At 24 lbs are they about 5 lbs a corner more than the 8 holes?
I had 18" AMG monoblocks 8"+9" with 235/35 Conti's on my (now sold) Limited, but traded them for a set of 17" EVO II diamond cut with 245/45 tires. The ride quality improved noticeably! Of course it is several playing factors when comparing wheels, but the overall handling improved, a tad more flex in the tires but though more predictable on hard cornering. This was only on street driving, so IMO you don't go wrong with EVO II on the 036.
 
Order update: out of the 40 wheels being imported i have 4 silvers left, and 8 wheels which are bing sent for diamond cut.
 
I had 18" AMG monoblocks 8"+9" with 235/35 Conti's on my (now sold) Limited, but traded them for a set of 17" EVO II diamond cut with 245/45 tires. The ride quality improved noticeably! Of course it is several playing factors when comparing wheels, but the overall handling improved, a tad more flex in the tires but though more predictable on hard cornering. This was only on street driving, so IMO you don't go wrong with EVO II on the 036.
There was a discussion on this board a few years ago, where @Klink advised that 17" was superior to 18" on these cars for a host of reasons... he didn't elaborate at the time (busy) or since, but I don't find that hard to believe based on 1990's rubber available... on today's rubber, I think you can get away just fine on 18's but I'd never touch 19's on this car... as usual, the wider the thread patch and the lower the profile the worse the ride quality, which is itself a matter of preference... I'm sure you're not going "wrong" on 17's, but "better"? Well I continue to question that one based upon improvements in tire rubber over the last 30 years... my ride quality improved to me when I went from old tires to new (both 245/40/18) more than I'd ever think it would improve from size to size...by the way, it was the absolute worst in the stock 16s I bought the car wearing... but those tires were from the ’90s or close.

maw
 
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Welp - wheels got in today. Look fantastic! No damage in shipment nor any imperfections I could notice on the wheels themselves. @5thscaleracer was great to deal with and the drop shipping worked out quickly (shipped on 04/29 got them all today 05/04) - seems I need to speed up my other ongoing projects on the 500E!

I have read around a bit, but was curious if people have recommendations on tires for these wheels. I like a wider and taller sidewall on my cars, so it fills in the wells a bit more (but not scraping on the fenders).

Thanks again @5thscaleracer for organizing things.
 

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I have read around a bit, but was curious if people have recommendations on tires for these wheels. I like a wider and taller sidewall on my cars, so it fills in the wells a bit more (but not scraping on the fenders).
I think @500AMM, recommendation of 245/45/17 is about all you’re going to get out of these... and I’m somewhat surprised he got 245 out of them... enjoy!

maw
 
I think @500AMM, recommendation of 245/45/17 is about all you’re going to get out of these... and I’m somewhat surprised he got 245 out of them... enjoy!

maw
The 245/45's came on the rims so it was a direct plug & play for me, and I'm sure those 18" Monoblocks I compared with had 6+ years old tires.

I agree with your statement in post #60, the rubber quality or the entire tire technology has improved a lot over years. In reality it is hard to compare wheels sizes only. Even by altering the tire set-up (width/wall) within the same tire brand - on the same wheel size, will give a significant change.
 
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Welp - wheels got in today. Look fantastic! No damage in shipment nor any imperfections I could notice on the wheels themselves. @5thscaleracer was great to deal with and the drop shipping worked out quickly (shipped on 04/29 got them all today 05/04) - seems I need to speed up my other ongoing projects on the 500E!

I have read around a bit, but was curious if people have recommendations on tires for these wheels. I like a wider and taller sidewall on my cars, so it fills in the wells a bit more (but not scraping on the fenders).

Thanks again @5thscaleracer for organizing things.
I ran the following set-up on EVO II with 245/45 tires with no rubbing issues:
15 mm spacers, front
10 mm spacers, rear
H&R lowering springs
#3 spring pads, front
#1 spring pads, rear

The car is in level with this spring pad combo, but #1 pads rear gave too much negative camber and subsequently excessive tire wear. I would rather go up one size both front and rear to #4 and #2.

Any size of spacers require longer wheel bolts and from my own experience I'll recommend OTIS (formerly RAD GmbH), probably for the spacers as well: Otis Inc. LA
Be aware that with longer wheel bolts you sacrifice the decorative stainless steel plate as the OE bolts have. I have still not seen any vendor providing bolts with that, but in case anyone has good news please chime in.

:e500launch:
 
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Friday wheel update... the Machine cut wheel was picked up yesterday and dropped off for clear coat treatment.

I am very impressed with the consistency of the machine process all 4 wheels are identical. The wheels were cut on a CNC Mill, i am surprised that the leading edge of the cut was not sharper. Leading and trailing edge was smooth so an additional back cut was not necessary.

Photos will be up soon once the wheels are back form clear coating.

So far to do the CNC work $190 per wheel clear coat is estimated to be $20-30 let's see once its all said and done.

the cost to do the first set is always higher because of the required programming cost and setup fee. If we do a group buy it's one setup fee and the programming cost is split with the bulk lot.

I am estimating $150-$160 to cut each wheel plus clear if we do a run of 10 or 20 wheels.

Time study on the work for those who are curious.

Setup each wheel 5 min labor time
Run time on CNC 20min

25min total for each wheel, 110min to do a set of 4 wheels.

one day 16 wheels total (4 sets) in a perfect work environment situation.
 
Friday wheel update... the Machine cut wheel was picked up yesterday and dropped off for clear coat treatment.

I am very impressed with the consistency of the machine process all 4 wheels are identical. The wheels were cut on a CNC Mill, i am surprised that the leading edge of the cut was not sharper. Leading and trailing edge was smooth so an additional back cut was not necessary.

Photos will be up soon once the wheels are back form clear coating.

So far to do the CNC work $190 per wheel clear coat is estimated to be $20-30 let's see once its all said and done.

the cost to do the first set is always higher because of the required programming cost and setup fee. If we do a group buy it's one setup fee and the programming cost is split with the bulk lot.

I am estimating $150-$160 to cut each wheel plus clear if we do a run of 10 or 20 wheels.

Time study on the work for those who are curious.

Setup each wheel 5 min labor time
Run time on CNC 20min

25min total for each wheel, 110min to do a set of 4 wheels.

one day 16 wheels total (4 sets) in a perfect work environment situation.
Im holding my breath waiting to see the finished result.
 
Friday wheel update... the Machine cut wheel was picked up yesterday and dropped off for clear coat treatment.

I am very impressed with the consistency of the machine process all 4 wheels are identical. The wheels were cut on a CNC Mill, i am surprised that the leading edge of the cut was not sharper. Leading and trailing edge was smooth so an additional back cut was not necessary.

Photos will be up soon once the wheels are back form clear coating.

So far to do the CNC work $190 per wheel clear coat is estimated to be $20-30 let's see once its all said and done.

the cost to do the first set is always higher because of the required programming cost and setup fee. If we do a group buy it's one setup fee and the programming cost is split with the bulk lot.

I am estimating $150-$160 to cut each wheel plus clear if we do a run of 10 or 20 wheels.

Time study on the work for those who are curious.

Setup each wheel 5 min labor time
Run time on CNC 20min

25min total for each wheel, 110min to do a set of 4 wheels.

one day 16 wheels total (4 sets) in a perfect work environment situation.
That sounds promising and interesting as well from a technical point of view since they are milling instead of conventional turning. We have a vendor here in Norway which is could at this using CNC turning. But sometimes they experience variations in the surface finish giving different reflections across the rim face. They claim it relates to variations in the rim materials, but it can also be due to high frequency vibrations in the rim during machining. A milling process will eliminate any potential risk for vibrations because the rim is clamped down to the machining template while the tool head is rotating.

.
 
That sounds promising and interesting as well from a technical point of view since they are milling instead of conventional turning. We have a vendor here in Norway which is could at this using CNC turning. But sometimes they experience variations in the surface finish giving different reflections across the rim face. They claim it relates to variations in the rim materials, but it can also be due to high frequency vibrations in the rim during machining. A milling process will eliminate any potential risk for vibrations because the rim is clamped down to the machining template while the tool head is rotating.

.
Interesting! I have no experience with this ..... what is the difference between turning (I assume this means cutting radially with the wheel face) versus milling? I think in this context I don’t know what milling means.
 
In turning the entire wheel would be rotating on its axis on a lathe, and a static cutting tool would traverse across its face moving radially in/out. This would produce concentric rings on the wheel face centered on the axis of the wheel, like rings on a tree stump.

Milling the face would involve clamping it to a table, and then a rotating cutting tool would descend from above. The table that the wheel is mounted to would move in x/y to remove material. This will produce a 'trail' of circular cut marks in the last direction the wheel was cut in.
 
My set (8.25 ET34) is currently shipping out to New Zealand - can't wait for them to get here!

I have a couple of questions:

1. Will the lug bolts for my current 16" 8 holes work, or do I need new ones?

2. Would the 16" wheels work on my S124 e320?

Cheers,
Russell
 
1. Will the lug bolts for my current 16" 8 holes work, or do I need new ones?
If your 16", 8-hole wheels have the original 95mm lugs, they will stick out beyond the face of the Evo wheel. You'll want different lugs. The "correct" ones (approximately 70-75mm total length, with decorative cap) are NLA from MB but are available used. MB sells generic lug bolts only now, without the decorative cap, ~60mm long. These will work fine but won't be flush with the Evo wheel face. Totally depends what you want aesthetically.


2. Would the 16" wheels work on my S124 e320?
The 16x8 ET34 wheels can work on your E320 wagon, but may require fender spacers and rolling the fender lips, particularly if the car is lowered. Click here for the AMG wheel install docs of a similar width & offset, you may be able to avoid some of that work with careful tire selection.

:3gears:
 
If your 16", 8-hole wheels have the original 95mm lugs, they will stick out beyond the face of the Evo wheel. You'll want different lugs. The "correct" ones (approximately 70-75mm total length, with decorative cap) are NLA from MB but are available used. MB sells generic lug bolts only now, without the decorative cap, ~60mm long. These will work fine but won't be flush with the Evo wheel face. Totally depends what you want aesthetically.



The 16x8 ET34 wheels can work on your E320 wagon, but may require fender spacers and rolling the fender lips, particularly if the car is lowered. Click here for the AMG wheel install docs of a similar width & offset, you may be able to avoid some of that work with careful tire selection.

:3gears:
Thanks very much - really helpful. So the bolts in the image should work?
 

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Thanks very much - really helpful. So the bolts in the image should work?
Yes, the M12x1.5 with 40mm shank will work fine with any Evo wheel. The appearance will be slightly different than OE since the bolt heads won't be visible (on the 8.25" wheel), which is probably a good thing with a lock set anyway.
 
Attached (see also post #24 of my owner's thread) shows my painted EVOII's with the rears wheels held on with W210 E430 lug bolts (w/ ground down on a bench grinder to avoid hitting the parking brake cable). Second picture shows E430 lugs versus RAD lug bolts (from Otisinla) but didn't care for them due to 1) lack of cap, & 2) they are deeply recessed into wheel. Third picture compares them.
 

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