I'm having a hard time figuring out where the leak is from. I can see nothing, other than a leak come out of the subframe. I've got the car jacked up and with the engine running its just leaking fluid at high rate (reservoir was empty). The fluid was extremely oxygenated as it settled on the floor. I've assumed at this point that its the high pressure line, but I am having a hard time determining the appropriate part number. The online MB catalogs kick back a 210 part number 210-466-05-81 - Power Steering Pressure Hose 1995-1999 Mercedes-Benz | MB Parts Source. I've already measured the gap on the subframe and my mounts are in need of replacement. The hose is covered by the line heatshield and another metal heathield on top of it. I've poked around the FSM and can't find the relevant section that covers any of the hoses. Any help would be appreciated. I know I need to loosen the moung and jack up the engine and ??? Will take many pics on this voyage and contribute a how to, all of the references I can find are sparse on howtos.
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Power steering hose popped, murder scene.
- Thread starter winmutt
- Start date
Best time to do the hose is when the engine is out of car, or motor mount replacements.
Here is a tip, the low pressure line for the SLS at the tandem pump, remove the hose (yes get ready for fluid loss). When you jack up the engine, you will know you are high enough if the hard pipe cuts thru the most likely 28-30 year old short length of hose. That was a shocker - aka blood bath personally for me as my first project: motor mounts. The connection aft is a banjo bolt so be sure you have the correct washers. Forward is a hose clamp. Buy new and be sure you orient that right so you can torque it down again after a few heat cycles from above or below if you have large hands. I cannot remember if I removed the crossover pipe or not, but if you do, may be best to obtain new bolts and nuts for that application and consider the down shaft reseal of the gear because you are there. It doesn't take long and you can leave the unit on the car...why waste the fluid to do it all again. Lastly the S hose for the PS line under the tandem pump., filter and fresh fluid.
:EDIT: I again did not take note that this was a E400/420E Spec w124. The above data pertains to the E500E with a tandem pump.
Here is a tip, the low pressure line for the SLS at the tandem pump, remove the hose (yes get ready for fluid loss). When you jack up the engine, you will know you are high enough if the hard pipe cuts thru the most likely 28-30 year old short length of hose. That was a shocker - aka blood bath personally for me as my first project: motor mounts. The connection aft is a banjo bolt so be sure you have the correct washers. Forward is a hose clamp. Buy new and be sure you orient that right so you can torque it down again after a few heat cycles from above or below if you have large hands. I cannot remember if I removed the crossover pipe or not, but if you do, may be best to obtain new bolts and nuts for that application and consider the down shaft reseal of the gear because you are there. It doesn't take long and you can leave the unit on the car...why waste the fluid to do it all again. Lastly the S hose for the PS line under the tandem pump., filter and fresh fluid.
:EDIT: I again did not take note that this was a E400/420E Spec w124. The above data pertains to the E500E with a tandem pump.
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I've never owned an .034, so I don't know the specifics (that's a job for the @gsxr with the .034), but it's likely the high-pressure hose leading from the steering pump to the steering box. I'm assuming your car doesn't have SLS in the rear (fairly rare on .034s) so that you don't have a tandem pump, but rather a singular power-steering pump on the driver's side front of the engine.
The much shorter return hose I believe is the low-pressure hose, and while they do fail, it's not nearly as common as the high-pressure hose. If you are puking out PS fluid while the engine is running, it's very likely going to be the high-pressure hose doing it.
I would also visually check the hose (high and low pressure) connections at the power-steering box. Likely OK, but worth checking.
Also check the hard PS cooling line, which is the thin rectangular routed hard line going up front by the radiator/condenser area. Again, these almost never leak, but this lengthy, hard cooling line is part of the routing of the system and thus worth a visual inspection.
Here is the steering line arrangement for the .034, US-spec, without SLS (tandem pump). Hopefully it provides a reference as to the specific lines in question. This is the official MB parts diagram from the ISPPI system, which is identical to what the dealership parts counters use.
The lines I'd be taking a serious look at are #9 (high pressure line) and #45 (cooling circuit hard pipe to pump).
Hoses 29 and 30 would be secondary candidates to look at, but they are under less pressure as they are coming FROM the steering box TO the cooling circuit up front of the car.
The high-pressure part number (#9 above) is 124 460 25 24, and MB Classic is showing this hose as NLA. Thus, it is probably best (if this line is indeed the culprit) to have a local hose shop make one for you.
For reference in case you need it, the #45 hose above DOES appear to be available from MB new. It is part number 124 466 32 81 and list price is $22.50; discounted to around $16.50-$17.00 at my local dealer.
The #29 hose above is part number 201 997 03 82, and is ordered by the meter. It is around $20 list ($15-16 discounted) per meter.
The #30 hose above [corrugated silver heat shield] is part number 126 997 29 82, and is also ordered by the meter. It is around $12 list price per meter, discounted to ~$8.50-9.00.
As a separate note.....
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE do not use the on-line MB dealer catalogs for looking up part numbers. ONLY use them for ordering discounted parts once you get the correct part numbers from reliable sources. As you can see, these on-line dealer catalogs are sending you down rat-holes of part numbers that are irrelevant to your car. You MUST get the ISPPI (from MB; $92 per year) or the free MB EPC system download from this site. The ISPPI shows multiple supercessions of the power steering line part numbers that are likely newer than the EPC would show (given that it is now several years out of date, at best).
The much shorter return hose I believe is the low-pressure hose, and while they do fail, it's not nearly as common as the high-pressure hose. If you are puking out PS fluid while the engine is running, it's very likely going to be the high-pressure hose doing it.
I would also visually check the hose (high and low pressure) connections at the power-steering box. Likely OK, but worth checking.
Also check the hard PS cooling line, which is the thin rectangular routed hard line going up front by the radiator/condenser area. Again, these almost never leak, but this lengthy, hard cooling line is part of the routing of the system and thus worth a visual inspection.
Here is the steering line arrangement for the .034, US-spec, without SLS (tandem pump). Hopefully it provides a reference as to the specific lines in question. This is the official MB parts diagram from the ISPPI system, which is identical to what the dealership parts counters use.
The lines I'd be taking a serious look at are #9 (high pressure line) and #45 (cooling circuit hard pipe to pump).
Hoses 29 and 30 would be secondary candidates to look at, but they are under less pressure as they are coming FROM the steering box TO the cooling circuit up front of the car.
The high-pressure part number (#9 above) is 124 460 25 24, and MB Classic is showing this hose as NLA. Thus, it is probably best (if this line is indeed the culprit) to have a local hose shop make one for you.
For reference in case you need it, the #45 hose above DOES appear to be available from MB new. It is part number 124 466 32 81 and list price is $22.50; discounted to around $16.50-$17.00 at my local dealer.
The #29 hose above is part number 201 997 03 82, and is ordered by the meter. It is around $20 list ($15-16 discounted) per meter.
The #30 hose above [corrugated silver heat shield] is part number 126 997 29 82, and is also ordered by the meter. It is around $12 list price per meter, discounted to ~$8.50-9.00.
As a separate note.....
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE do not use the on-line MB dealer catalogs for looking up part numbers. ONLY use them for ordering discounted parts once you get the correct part numbers from reliable sources. As you can see, these on-line dealer catalogs are sending you down rat-holes of part numbers that are irrelevant to your car. You MUST get the ISPPI (from MB; $92 per year) or the free MB EPC system download from this site. The ISPPI shows multiple supercessions of the power steering line part numbers that are likely newer than the EPC would show (given that it is now several years out of date, at best).
Note that he is on an .034, so likely doesn't have the .036 "tandem pump" with the S-hose. Different setup for V-8s with no rear SLS + tandem pump.
You need to clean / degrease everything. Otherwise you are wasting your time. Yeah, I know, this isn't what you wanted to hear - sorry.
I've never heard of a high pressure hose failure, ever, on any 034/036.
The MB online catalogs are garbage. Use them and you'll end up spending money on the wrong parts. Use the EPC, or official online Xentry Parts subscription (ISPPI), only. Read what Gerry wrote at the end of his post. The part number you listed above is for a W210 E420, not a W124 E420.
There is no front subframe on the W124.
Did you search the forum?
The FSM doesn't cover much of anything for the hoses. Did you search the forum?
Replacement of all 3 of the low pressure hoses has been covered on the forum several times in the past, with lots of photos, part numbers, etc etc...
Thanks for all the tips, I didnt realize the dealer sites would be that far off or even not use the EPC.Note that he is on an .034, so likely doesnt have the .036 tandem pump with the S-hose. Different setup for V-8s with no rear SLS + tandem pump.
Clean it to determine where its coming from? The quantity of fluid coming out is pretty heavy, I just can't see in the area above the cross member, but I'll definitely take your advice. If nothing else, clean means fast!
Happy to hear what other possibilities exist. The popping noise was pretty noticeable and the fluid was fully aerated.
I did pretty thoroughly, but admittedly was looking for the high pressure line in particular
I found a number of them but nothing with pictures in the area cross member area. I will look again.
If your leaking fluid is aerated, that also is a clue that tells me that it is coming FROM (out of) the pump (i.e. high pressure line).
If it was going TO the pump, through the entire steering box and hydraulic fluid circuit, it is not likely the fluid would be aerated after having traveled that distance and through those damping elements like the steering box.
Just a GVZ clue - take it for what it is worth.
If it was going TO the pump, through the entire steering box and hydraulic fluid circuit, it is not likely the fluid would be aerated after having traveled that distance and through those damping elements like the steering box.
Just a GVZ clue - take it for what it is worth.
What a chore. No special tools needed. I replaced the passenger side mount and got the drivers side mount out and cleaned off the high pressure hose. It was soaked in ATF behind the heat shielding but I am unable to determine that there was a leak there. Tomorrow AM I will pull out the S hose and the low pressure hose and see what they look like. With the S and low pressure hose being readily available and cheap, I am going to replace them while I am in there, but I am not so sure about the high pressure hose. I wish there was an easy way to check it if the low pressure hoses don't reveal anything obvious.
Things are not well. RVT is never a good sign, it was under the PS reservoir. It's not easy to see but the top end of the female threads where the high presser line are all but gone. I cannot, for the life of me, get this hose to thread. Waiting on 1.25 and 1.5 taps to see if I can clean the threads, as well as new plastic vac/emission hoses because they broke (obviously) and the $37 paper gasket for the PS reservoir.
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IIRC, it's normal to have no threads for the first ~1/8" or so. Those threads don't look that bad to me, other than the first thread slightly buggered? 
That hose can be a bear to get started without cross-threading, if the nut isn't aligned perfectly. The lack of flexibility on that hose exacerbates the issue. Try threading in a bolt of the correct size and see if it spins in easily.
That hose can be a bear to get started without cross-threading, if the nut isn't aligned perfectly. The lack of flexibility on that hose exacerbates the issue. Try threading in a bolt of the correct size and see if it spins in easily.
