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Pre-install Lifter Prep

grim 140

E500E Enthusiast
Member
I looked but I did not see any answers to my question?
Before installing new lifters do you have to prep them like put oil in them? The manuals far as I could see did not say anything.
 
If the FSM doesn't specify any special procedure, then no, it shouldn't need anything. However, I've never had to replace any M119 lifters...

:klink3:
 
I would probably coat them liberally in a quality engine assembly oil, do not use magnets of any kind to handle them and crank the engine over (use a trigger to fire starter motor) and get oil flowing up to the the cams before you fire up.
 
UPDATE!!!
I have finished installing the timing chain guides and the left intake cam lifters.
Happy to report no more Ticking!!
I have driven it two hundred miles. So far so good!
Thanks to everyone for the help!
 
2nd UPDATE!!!
I'm getting a random lifter tick? It is still coming from the left side.
Comes and goes as it pleases! it's quiet...but noticeable!
Anyways I'm gonna drive it and hopefully, it will eventually stop!
I am running Chevron Delo 15w40. In case anyone asks.
 
UPDATE!!!
I have finished installing the timing chain guides and the left intake cam lifters.
Happy to report no more Ticking!!
I have driven it two hundred miles. So far so good!
Thanks to everyone for the help!
I am almost done with timing chain update and am having difficulty getting the new chain and all new guides to pin at exactly 45 deg btdc . Is this typical? I’m seeing about 49 deg with all cams pinned. What was your experience? I’m wondering if the chain is up on the edge lip of a guide between the crank and driver exhaust cam…What do you think?
 
That is not typical, and in general you'd end up with a lower number (say, 40-42 BTDC) if there were broken rails. I don't know how you could get a reading of 49° BTDC unless the balancer or pointer are off somehow. You could check this with a dial gauge through the #1 piston spark plug hole.

Edit: You would find actual TDC with the dial gauge on the #1 piston crown, through the spark plug hole, using a long extension on the dial gauge. This SHOULD show TDC on the balancer, if not, the balancer OR pointer is off.
 
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If the balancer is determined to be off by some error (using number one cylinder top dead center as a reference.) I should be able to adjust the 45 BTDC mark by the error amount and then it should be in time. That’s my plan anyway.
 
Well that’s the problem. The harmonic balancer is out of harmony by one bolt hole! When I disassembled the engine, the damper was stuck to the flange and I never checked it’s position thinking the woodruff key would lineup everything. Apparently a previous mechanic set it up this way. I thought the unique bolt pattern would prevent this? Hopefully I can get this straightened out and retime everything and get back on the road soon!
 
The balancer is indeed keyed with a unique bolt pattern. You shouldn't be able to fit all the bolts in, without the balancer in the correct location. In any other position, at least 1 hole would not line up...

:blink:
 
Update: I just realized I was misreading the zero point on the harmonic balancer (which was worn down and difficult to read). Referencing an image of a newer part it is clear that indeed it was accurately positioned at top dead center (0) when referencing passenger front cylinder 1. That explains everything now and I can get on with timing (properly this time) the cams.
 
So today was the day. Finally settled on the cam timing and reassembled everything and gave it a try.. It took a few cranks and finally success.. Now I have to sort out a transmission leak but that’s fine because after five months it runs! The air pump has a dry bearing but I think it seems smooth enough.
 

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