Postby diaconovic on Fri May 22, 2009 4:04 am
I'll be happy to have some tips about the procedure of doing a brake fluid change on a car for the first time
.
I already have some ATE super blue , i 'll probably order a pressure bleeder ( motiv ? ) , my only concern
is about flushing the abs/asr unit at "sp" bleeder valve ? do i need to have the engine running or just the ignition on , to complete the job ?
thanks for your help !
Patrice / 92" 500E / 199 / 275
==================================
Postby gsxr on Fri May 22, 2009 4:35 am
Click here to view the factory procedure. Make sure you follow the instructions for vehicles with ASR.
:excited:
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1995 E420 (W.I.P.)
1994 E500 (Q-ship)
1993 300D (Sportline)
1987 300D (Sportline Stage 2)
1987 300D (R.I.P)
Click here for my website photos, documents, and movies.
==================================
Postby brams on Fri May 22, 2009 5:22 am
You might snap the bleeder off at the ASR unit, mine did (it went tight, I tried to work it in and out to try and free the thread but with no luck)..... so I had to bleed using the outlet ports instead (loosening the unions a few turns). Didn't bleed using the pressure bleeder, I did it with the engine running just kept the end of the hose submerged in fluid and my wife pumped the pedal till nice clean fluid came out, I ended up doing 3 liters in my car, looked like the old stuff had been in for ages so I wanted to purge all the crap out, used Bosch DOT 4. Start with the rear caliper furthest away from the brake cylinder and then the next rear and so on till you get to the closest caliper to the cylinder, it might pay you on the final couple of pumps to lock the bleeder nipple, pump the pedal up hard and with pedal still pressed release the bleeder nipple. Have some water handy (a gallon or so) to pour on any spills, just in case, bleeding brakes is messy and horrible I hate it. Pressure bleeders are only really needed if you've replaced the ASR modulator, so I'd keep the money for a rainy day and do it without. Not sure if you've seen Gunson products in the USA, they do a really cool pressure bleeder which is just a glorified bottle but hooks up to a tyre and uses tyre pressure to supply the bottle, cheap as chips, though meant for amateur mechanics, I used one for about 20 years as a tech day in day out and it was brilliant, still have it back home in the UK.
Make absolutely sure you DO NOT run dry of fluid in the reservoir, if you get air in the system you might have lots of headaches bleeding and will very much need a pressure bleeder then. This is also a two person job.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0134651318
Cheers
brams
95 E500 Limited
==================================
Postby gsxr on Fri May 22, 2009 1:39 pm
If you bleed by pumping the pedal, avoid using more than 1/2 to 2/3 of the pedal travel. More than one master cylinder has been killed when the seals are forced past the point where they normally go, a ridge can form there, and when it's pushed to the floor... poof. Just something to keep in mind.
Another inexpensive power bleeder is the Motiv unit, ~$50 USD or so... here's a link:
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/cate ... e_Bleeders
:woot2:
==================================
Postby diaconovic on Fri May 22, 2009 3:35 pm
Ok great thanks for your input guys
,
I don't really want to do it by pumping ala old way so i'll order the motiv power bleeder ,
just found a shop who sell this product in my country :up2:
Patrice / 92" 500E / 199 / 275
==================================
Postby jhodg5ck on Fri May 22, 2009 5:05 pm
+1 on the Motiv unit.. I had the unit w/ the plastic cap but upgraded to the metal... Glad I did! Also, order up the rubber caps for the fluid reservoir level senders. More often then not they are cracked and will leak once you put the PB on there.
Going back and forth b/w different colour brake fluid makes flushing Much easier!
Also, w/ the pressure bleeder this Should be a neat and tidy affair
Jonathan
Blue Ridge Mercedes/AMG East
www.blueridgemb.com
Enthusiast Service, Restoration and Tuning.
96 S600 Euro
91 560SEC ECE
91 560SEC
91 500SL Jap
88 300E AMG
89 190E 2.6 5sp
89 560SEC AMG +1
88 560SEC AMG ECE
87 Hammer 6.0L 32V
86 560SEL AMG 6.0L 32V
==================================
Postby diaconovic on Fri May 22, 2009 5:47 pm
jhodg5ck wrote: Also, order up the rubber caps for the fluid reservoir level senders. More often then not they are cracked and will leak once you put the PB on there.
Thanks Jonathan , look like these two caps ?
Patrice / 92" 500E / 199 / 275
==================================
Postby omegabenz on Sat May 23, 2009 3:35 am
Motive euro (black) bleeder with the aluminum screw on adapter is awesome. I have 3 versions from them.
Ate BLUE or ATE 200 are my favorite brake fluids.
yes those two caps. See if your reservoir is Girling or ate, they are different caps. Have fun.
I'll be happy to have some tips about the procedure of doing a brake fluid change on a car for the first time
.I already have some ATE super blue , i 'll probably order a pressure bleeder ( motiv ? ) , my only concern
is about flushing the abs/asr unit at "sp" bleeder valve ? do i need to have the engine running or just the ignition on , to complete the job ?
thanks for your help !
Patrice / 92" 500E / 199 / 275
==================================
Postby gsxr on Fri May 22, 2009 4:35 am
Click here to view the factory procedure. Make sure you follow the instructions for vehicles with ASR.
:excited:
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1995 E420 (W.I.P.)
1994 E500 (Q-ship)
1993 300D (Sportline)
1987 300D (Sportline Stage 2)
1987 300D (R.I.P)
Click here for my website photos, documents, and movies.
==================================
Postby brams on Fri May 22, 2009 5:22 am
You might snap the bleeder off at the ASR unit, mine did (it went tight, I tried to work it in and out to try and free the thread but with no luck)..... so I had to bleed using the outlet ports instead (loosening the unions a few turns). Didn't bleed using the pressure bleeder, I did it with the engine running just kept the end of the hose submerged in fluid and my wife pumped the pedal till nice clean fluid came out, I ended up doing 3 liters in my car, looked like the old stuff had been in for ages so I wanted to purge all the crap out, used Bosch DOT 4. Start with the rear caliper furthest away from the brake cylinder and then the next rear and so on till you get to the closest caliper to the cylinder, it might pay you on the final couple of pumps to lock the bleeder nipple, pump the pedal up hard and with pedal still pressed release the bleeder nipple. Have some water handy (a gallon or so) to pour on any spills, just in case, bleeding brakes is messy and horrible I hate it. Pressure bleeders are only really needed if you've replaced the ASR modulator, so I'd keep the money for a rainy day and do it without. Not sure if you've seen Gunson products in the USA, they do a really cool pressure bleeder which is just a glorified bottle but hooks up to a tyre and uses tyre pressure to supply the bottle, cheap as chips, though meant for amateur mechanics, I used one for about 20 years as a tech day in day out and it was brilliant, still have it back home in the UK.
Make absolutely sure you DO NOT run dry of fluid in the reservoir, if you get air in the system you might have lots of headaches bleeding and will very much need a pressure bleeder then. This is also a two person job.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0134651318
Cheers
brams
95 E500 Limited
==================================
Postby gsxr on Fri May 22, 2009 1:39 pm
If you bleed by pumping the pedal, avoid using more than 1/2 to 2/3 of the pedal travel. More than one master cylinder has been killed when the seals are forced past the point where they normally go, a ridge can form there, and when it's pushed to the floor... poof. Just something to keep in mind.
Another inexpensive power bleeder is the Motiv unit, ~$50 USD or so... here's a link:
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/cate ... e_Bleeders
:woot2:
==================================
Postby diaconovic on Fri May 22, 2009 3:35 pm
Ok great thanks for your input guys
,I don't really want to do it by pumping ala old way so i'll order the motiv power bleeder ,
just found a shop who sell this product in my country :up2:
Patrice / 92" 500E / 199 / 275
==================================
Postby jhodg5ck on Fri May 22, 2009 5:05 pm
+1 on the Motiv unit.. I had the unit w/ the plastic cap but upgraded to the metal... Glad I did! Also, order up the rubber caps for the fluid reservoir level senders. More often then not they are cracked and will leak once you put the PB on there.
Going back and forth b/w different colour brake fluid makes flushing Much easier!
Also, w/ the pressure bleeder this Should be a neat and tidy affair
Jonathan
Blue Ridge Mercedes/AMG East
www.blueridgemb.com
Enthusiast Service, Restoration and Tuning.
96 S600 Euro
91 560SEC ECE
91 560SEC
91 500SL Jap
88 300E AMG
89 190E 2.6 5sp
89 560SEC AMG +1
88 560SEC AMG ECE
87 Hammer 6.0L 32V
86 560SEL AMG 6.0L 32V
==================================
Postby diaconovic on Fri May 22, 2009 5:47 pm
jhodg5ck wrote: Also, order up the rubber caps for the fluid reservoir level senders. More often then not they are cracked and will leak once you put the PB on there.
Thanks Jonathan , look like these two caps ?
Patrice / 92" 500E / 199 / 275
==================================
Postby omegabenz on Sat May 23, 2009 3:35 am
Motive euro (black) bleeder with the aluminum screw on adapter is awesome. I have 3 versions from them.
Ate BLUE or ATE 200 are my favorite brake fluids.
yes those two caps. See if your reservoir is Girling or ate, they are different caps. Have fun.
