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Removing CPS metal sleeve from bracket?

Gmach

E500E Enthusiast
Member
How do you remove the metal sleeve that is is stuck on the bracket?
The Crank Position Sensor (CPS), with it's guts, came right out but the metal sleeve is well and truely stuck in the hole. What is the best way to get it out? Thanks.
 
Re: Removing CPS metal sleeve from bracket.

I've only gotten them out by removing the transmission...the few I've come across were Badly corroded in. Only other hope IMHO would be to try and deform the sleeve sufficiently that the sleeve pulls away from the bracket and you can somehow yank it out of there.

jono
 
Thanks jono...I am trying to bend it away from the bracket. Pretty cramped and hard to work. Removing the transmission seems a bit extreme. Plus almost an impossible task for me.
 
extreme, for sure...but that's the way the bracket is designed. There is 1 10mm bolt you can absolutely Not access with out removing the transmission. Trust me when I say it was the Last option I wanted to engage when having this sort of problem.

Curious, did your sensor fail or were you just getting a code for it in HHT/SDS? Reason I ask, and for refrence in the future...if your car is running/not quitting on the spot and said sensor ohms out around 850 don't replace it even if you get a code for it. I can't remember an 034/036 that came in that Didn't have a crank sensor code. We straight ignore them now.

jono
 
Can you simply get a new bosch sensor w/sleeve, remove the sleeve and drop it in the existing frozen sleeve?

I know space is tight- almost need a pilot bushing removal tool which can grab the lower edge.
 
the new sensors are housed in plastic...no swappy.

The pilot bushing/blind hole pullers don't work either sadly.. BTDT :(

there are still two different versions available though...i reckon it has to do with early /late type...and most likely the all plastic one is later type.I get TWO versions available when doing a EPC search on my car at least..and its a 1992.
 
that metal version hasn't shipped in damn near Forever. 92 or otherwise it all subs to the late number.
 
The car just died. Would start a couple of times but ran really rough with little or no response to the throttle. Also, the ASR light came on. I checked the codes but with no history (this is a friends car) I don't know if they were ever cleared and now the car wouldn't start at all so we can't see new codes. The codes I did get indicated a power supply interruption and a CAN link issue.....can't remember exactly. But nothing specific to the CPS. Car has a replacement upper harness and the throttle body harness is good. Checked fuel pressure ...good at 50 PSI. Lots of spark. Swapped all the computers one by one and the distributors / rotors and that made no difference. I suspected the CPS maybe the culprit but oddly there was no warning. No issue only when hot...it just stopped working.

So, we decided to change it. How hard could that be? I own two 400E's and have replaced the CPS in both...ezzy pezzy. NOT!! We could get it to rotate around it's axis but it would not pull out. I noticed that one of the fly wheel tabs was right under the CPS so we decided to turn the engine over to move the tab. I hoped somehow that would help....don't know why but I'm glad we did. Amazingly, as we engaged the starter the car started right up and purrrred. So, clearly the CPS was the problem. We eventually did get the core out but the stainless casing is still there. We are looking at making / modifying a tap or easy out or something before we go down the transmission path.
 
My Bosch replacement was metal ringed... but the original was not. Glad you go it out. Fun with a dremel on a broomstick.

From my limited work, I find the air-powered pencil grinder with a carbide 1/8 shank cutter much easier to work with than the dremel. They are 20 skins and H-F.
 

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