Right Low Beam, Fog Light and Turn Signal Not Working.

[M119Sleeper]

So, while I was in New Zealand last summer, my brother backed into my 93 400E. He popped the right headlight and corner light. I'm headed back to New Zealand again in 10 day (I'm a ski instructor and I follow winter to the southern hemisphere) and I am attempting to get ol' 400E working well again so my girlfriend will drive it to work now and again to keep it from settling into a parking spot.

When I go home to asses the damage, I found, if I turned the headlights on, the washer fluid for the headlight wiper would run non-stop. So I ordered a Euro headlight set and decided it was a good reason to change em over. I'm deleting the wipers which makes it a bit easier. So, I've got the new headlight together with new bulbs and I decided to test them before I installed them.

The right headlight low beam, fog light and turn signal are inoperable. I moved the assembly over to the left side, and it works. I moved the left assembly to the right, and it doesn't work. So I have established that the headlights them selves aren't to blame. I put the multimeter to the harness and found I'm getting 10v to one of the sockets (which belongs to what? I do not know), the other sockets are getting 2v or less. I tested the left side, 12v everywhere. I moved up to the fuses, tested #14 and #13 and I'm getting 12v.

So, sorting through what information I can find online (which is not so much), I am finding that next I should look at the control relay. part number 126 542 01 32. I don't mind replacing it, but I'd really like to know for sure that the current stops there. I cannot find a wiring diagram or pinout for this relay.

Does anyone have any experience with this. The headlights worked before my brother hit the car and I'm not sold on the accident causing the bad relay. I've worked in the industry long enough to believe it's simply coincidence, but nothing is better than a smoking gun.

Thanks in advance!

 

[gsxr]

Have you REMOVED the fuses for the lights, to clean the contacts? I'd try that first. There are separate fuses for left & right.

I forget if the headlight rotary switch could be at fault. Wouldn't hurt twiddling it a bit to see if there's any change. Otherwise I'd be tempted to swap the bulb-out module, which has all lights routed through it.

Electrical schematic is in the FSM, link below:

https://www.500eboard.co/forums/misc/Manuals/Servicev3.2/W124/w124CD1/Program/ETM/24822000.pdf

 

[captruff]

+1 on the headlight rotary switch...they go bad often

Jeff

 

[M119Sleeper]

So, I made a trip to the junkyard for a new wiper assembly, and a grille. I asked them to throw in a headlight control module relay. When I got home I threw the used one in as I'd already had the old one out in hopes of going nuts with the multimeter.

I then put the turn signal back in and found it was still not working. So I changed the fuses out. Still no blinker. I grabbed the multi meter to test the sockets, and realized I had plugged the turn signal housing into the wiper connector. I switched it over to the right connector and it was working. I did not change the fuse for the turn signal, only the headlamp, so my assumption is that the relay was the fix.

I replaced the grille (this one is not so clean, but it was cheap and my intention is to paint it body color) and snapped a pic. She's not the cleanest 400e, but eventually I'll have it better than showroom. I took some years off being a gearhead, and just focused on my skiing. This summer is my last season in New Zealand, and next summer will be the manual swap. I'll pick up a 119.97x and put it on the engine stand and refresh it before I drop it in. Lots of other mods to come.

 

[gsxr]

... next summer will be the manual swap.

Wow! I assume you'll start with lower differential gearing first? You won't want 2.24's with a manual.

I'll pick up a 119.97x and put it on the engine stand and refresh it before I drop it in. Lots of other mods to come.

Your stock 4.2L engine is 119.975... I assume you mean a .974/.972 which is 5.0L from E500E / SL500, respectively? That will be a nice upgrade.

 

[M119Sleeper]

Wow! I assume you'll start with lower differential gearing first? You won't want 2.24's with a manual.

Yup! I'm going to use the 3.27 out of a 260E or 2.6L 300E. Im going to use a NSG370/716.654 transmission I think. I know the NSG370 has very similar gearing to that of the 717.404 Getrag in the 190E 2.3-16v. I wonder if the guts of the NSG370 out of a crossfire or wrangler will fit in the 716.65x case.

Your stock 4.2L engine is 119.975... I assume you mean a .974/.972 which is 5.0L from E500E / SL500, respectively? That will be a nice upgrade.

Maybe I've got part number mixed up, im going to use a 5.0 out of a 92 year model. The double valve springs will come in handy when its time for the procharger. I've been doing my best to follow Kangaroos Team build and ask as much as I can without bothering them.

 

[gsxr]

Yup! I'm going to use the 3.27 out of a 260E or 2.6L 300E.

Uh, you can't do that, if you want the diff to live. Those chassis had the smaller 185mm diff. You need the larger 210mm. There's a 210mm diff with 3.27 gears in the 1990 300CE, but you won't be able to get limited slip for it. Look at the "differentials" spreadsheet in the "Docs" directory at W124performance.com.

Im going to use a NSG370/716.654 transmission I think. I know the NSG370 has very similar gearing to that of the 717.404 Getrag in the 190E 2.3-16v. I wonder if the guts of the NSG370 out of a crossfire or wrangler will fit in the 716.65x case.

Maybe @anderzen knows?

Maybe I've got part number mixed up, im going to use a 5.0 out of a 92 year model. The double valve springs will come in handy when its time for the procharger. I've been doing my best to follow Kangaroos Team build and ask as much as I can without bothering them.

Make sure the donor engine is from a 1992 500E then. If you get a 1992 500SEL engine, you will need to swap the entire oil pan, oil pump pickup, and exhaust manifolds. You can not use a 1992 500SL engine, that's a 119.960 motor with CIS. The 1993 500SL engine is plug+play but will not have dual valve springs.

The 1993-up engines with single valve springs also have lighter internal components and automatic belt tensioner. I'm not sure there's any significant advantage to the dual valve spring setup unless you plan on trying to rev to 7k or beyond?

Fitting any supercharger is very, very difficult to do properly. The second belt drive needed will eat up all the space you need for a factory cooling fan. Using a single belt for everything would be ideal, but may require substantial engineering and fabrication.

 

[M119Sleeper]

Uh, you can't do that, if you want the diff to live. Those chassis had the smaller 185mm diff. You need the larger 210mm. There's a 210mm diff with 3.27 gears in the 1990 300CE, but you won't be able to get limited slip for it. Look at the "differentials" spreadsheet in the "Docs" directory at W124performance.com.

I was aiming to closely match the 190e 2.3-16v gearing as I'm building the .034 as a road course car. I live within driving distance of Watkins Glen Speedway and that is where I'll have some fun with it. It's a big, fast track so I think it is actually well suited to test and develop the car. I believe Quaife makes a LSD for the R129 210mm rear end, so I could use that and the 3.27 rear.

Maybe @anderzen knows?



Make sure the donor engine is from a 1992 500E then. If you get a 1992 500SEL engine, you will need to swap the entire oil pan, oil pump pickup, and exhaust manifolds. You can not use a 1992 500SL engine, that's a 119.960 motor with CIS. The 1993 500SL engine is plug+play but will not have dual valve springs.

I have a MS3 Evo system that will be going in in place of the factory engine management. My plan was use the 92 short block but delete the distributors, change over the oil pan and switch over any other accessories. I appreciate all this information by the way. Im in the early stages of planning. I'll have 12 months to accumulate parts and adjust plans.

When I spoke to the guys at Kangaroos Team, they suggested the 92 5.0, as its what they've been using for their drift car. From what I read in their YouTube comments, they were making 715whp with stock internals. They said theyre using a M119.970. They've lowered their compression a bit. It's here in the comments.-

Im not dead set on these plans, I just like that I've seen they've had success with that engine in a pretty stressful application. I won't run anywhere near 715whp, but I will be hard on the... maybe 400whp? We'll see. Feel free to shoot holes in my plan, my knowledge is limited, but I'm keen to change that.

The 1993-up engines with single valve springs also have lighter internal components and automatic belt tensioner. I'm not sure there's any significant advantage to the dual valve spring setup unless you plan on trying to rev to 7k or beyond?

Fitting any supercharger is very, very difficult to do properly. The second belt drive needed will eat up all the space you need for a factory cooling fan. Using a single belt for everything would be ideal, but may require substantial engineering and fabrication.

I know the supercharger will take quite a bit of fabrication, but im okay with that. I have lots of mods to do to support the HP and subsequently lots of time before that comes.

The part im most worried about is the body work to make bigger tires fit. Front fender flares will be necessary, because I want to run a square stance with enough rubber to support the extra speed all the power will supply. What is the widest tire people are getting under the 500E fenders?

 

[gsxr]

I was aiming to closely match the 190e 2.3-16v gearing as I'm building the .034 as a road course car. I live within driving distance of Watkins Glen Speedway and that is where I'll have some fun with it. It's a big, fast track so I think it is actually well suited to test and develop the car. I believe Quaife makes a LSD for the R129 210mm rear end, so I could use that and the 3.27 rear.

The Quaife (and Wavetrac) for 210mm only fits 2.65, 2.82, and 3.06 gearsets. You could use 3.27 gears with a spacer and longer bolts, but that will require more custom fabrication.

I have a MS3 Evo system that will be going in in place of the factory engine management. My plan was use the 92 short block but delete the distributors, change over the oil pan and switch over any other accessories. I appreciate all this information by the way. Im in the early stages of planning. I'll have 12 months to accumulate parts and adjust plans.

Coil-on-plug ignition would be REALLY nice!

When I spoke to the guys at Kangaroos Team, they suggested the 92 5.0, as its what they've been using for their drift car. From what I read in their YouTube comments, they were making 715whp with stock internals. They said theyre using a M119.970. They've lowered their compression a bit.

.970 is the 140-chassis engine. 715whp is NUTS. Wonder what the power curve looks like.

Im not dead set on these plans, I just like that I've seen they've had success with that engine in a pretty stressful application. I won't run anywhere near 715whp, but I will be hard on the... maybe 400whp? We'll see. Feel free to shoot holes in my plan, my knowledge is limited, but I'm keen to change that.

So few people have actually built forced-induction M119's, data is super rare. 400whp would be totally safe with stock internals though.

The part im most worried about is the body work to make bigger tires fit. Front fender flares will be necessary, because I want to run a square stance with enough rubber to support the extra speed all the power will supply. What is the widest tire people are getting under the 500E fenders?

500E fenders can get at least a 255 front and 285 rear tire with appropriate wheel offsets. Slightly wider may be possible but not many people have gone there. Don't confuse this with wide WHEELS, some people have shown fitments of super-wide wheels but with super-stretched (narrow) tire section widths. Kinda depends on the intended usage... street, road course, dragstrip, etc.

 

[M119Sleeper]

The Quaife (and Wavetrac) for 210mm only fits 2.65, 2.82, and 3.06 gearsets. You could use 3.27 gears with a spacer and longer bolts, but that will require more custom fabrication.

That's a pain, I'll probably start with the 3.06 and see how much that throttles performance and complicate things as it becomes necessary.

500E fenders can get at least a 255 front and 285 rear tire with appropriate wheel offsets. Slightly wider may be possible but not many people have gone there. Don't confuse this with wide WHEELS, some people have shown fitments of super-wide wheels but with super-stretched (narrow) tire section widths. Kinda depends on the intended usage... street, road course, dragstrip, etc.

265 square stance would be ideal. I would love to use the 500E front fenders, but they are incredibly hard to come by and very expensive. I will likely fabricate fender flares. I want it to be clean, and in the realm of period correct. I will likely use AMG hammer replica bumpers and side skirts. Ideally people will look at it and say "That doesn't quite look like a Hammer and its not a 500E, I cant figure out what it is". Im going to run the duck bill rear spoiler, and where the Hammer says "AMG" I want in that AMG font "034". Lots of plans.

I'll start a thread for the build about this time next year when the snow melts and I hang my skis up for the first time in a long time.