Timing Chain Link removal tool and Assembly tool..

[fastcar]

I have a 1992 500E ,, 175,000kms, timing chain rattles on cold start-up, tried the cheap fix by changing the oil retention valve (updated version) worked for about 20 starts and now the rattle is back. The closes Mercedes dealer is 500 miles away so I have to get my local guy to do it,, but I need the special tools. I have asked the dealer to check the cost of 3 tools Link Removal tool,, Link Assembly tool, and the Swaging jaws ,, total cost $ 1200. Cdn. I've looked on ebay and there are some for sale but I don't know if they are the correct tools for my car.
Q.1:: What tools do I really need to do this job??
Q.2:: Where can I get them and know for sure they are the correct ones.

Would appreciate some help on this..

Regards,

Bob

 

[alabbasi]

A die grinder has always worked for me

I have a 1992 500E ,, 175,000kms, timing chain rattles on cold start-up, tried the cheap fix by changing the oil retention valve (updated version) worked for about 20 starts and now the rattle is back. The closes Mercedes dealer is 500 miles away so I have to get my local guy to do it,, but I need the special tools. I have asked the dealer to check the cost of 3 tools Link Removal tool,, Link Assembly tool, and the Swaging jaws ,, total cost $ 1200. Cdn. I've looked on ebay and there are some for sale but I don't know if they are the correct tools for my car.
Q.1:: What tools do I really need to do this job??
Q.2:: Where can I get them and know for sure they are the correct ones.

Would appreciate some help on this..

Regards,

Bob

 

[gerryvz]

You need to get the IWIS factory MB tool to replace the timing chain, and would need a Dremel tool to grind down the crimped end of the existing chain.

Also you would need new chain guides (plastic top guides FOR SURE) - they are cheap, and an MB timing chain end link kit. You use this kit to temporarily attach the new chain to the end of the old chain when you roll the new chain into the engine, and then remove it and install the master link that comes with the new chain, which you use the tool to crimp together.

Several of the tools are available on eBay for the $250 range and they work with all MB timing chains. You just need to make sure the tool is complete and has the double-row chain crimping attachment.

If you have plastic cam oiler tubes, this timing chain operation would be an EXCELLENT time to also replace the tubes with metal ones.

You'll also need a set of M119 valve cover gaskets too.

Cheers,
Gerry

 

[J-Sauce]

If your side guide rails in the heads are crumbling (they likely are) you will also need a chain rail pin puller (~$35 via eBay). Doing this job will also require you to purchase gaskets for the tensioner and the power steering reservoir. The reservoir gasket is about ~$70 for the OE MB piece. This is one item where it is worth it to go for a quality aftermarket item which can be had for <$5.

 

[gsxr]

Bob, the chain rails should be inspected, if they are original, you likely need to replace them. If the chain is original as well, it would be a good idea to replace it. Crimping the new link is best done with the factory tool, or aftermarket tool, but it can be done via other methods IF and only if you know what you're doing. I would look for a used OE tool, or an aftermarket tool, as the new OE tool is stupid priced.

That said: A new chain and rails may not cure the cold-start rattle. There was also a TSB to change the spring inside the cam adjuster to a stronger spring. My 92 has new everything (and I mean everything) and it still does a 1-2 second rattle on most cold starts. I find it interesting your problem went away briefly and then returned...

Side note: For the tensioner gasket, I recommend only using OE, which is stamped metal. The aftermarket tensioner gaskets can be fiber, which is not fun to clean off next time it's removed.

 

[fastcar]

OK ,, Will order the tools and parts , will get back to you guys when the work starts, most likely in a month,, we still have snow,,,

 

[fastcar]

Question 2:: J-Sauce,, also mentioned that I should change the slide rail inside cylinder head R and L side if they are questionable, for sure they will be discolored.. If this is done what has to come off the engine to get to this rails?? It looks like a lot more that just doing the timing chain feet thru the engine.
I'm asking this because my local Mech. guy ( not a MB mech.) is going to do it??? he charges $45/hr.. if I take it to MB ,, I have to drive 500 miles and their rates are $155/hr. So if I can get as much info as possible then I will have him do it,, its those tools ,, which one can you do without for this job???

Regards..

 

[fastcar]

Hi guys ,, the first part of my reply went missing,,
Latest is that I bought and received the timing chain assembly tool and slide rail pin puller, BUT I can only find the tool to remove the Top Slide rail L & R side from one source and it will take 7 weeks for $175 Cdn..Do I need this tool to remove the slide rails??? because if I need the tool I will change my plans and got to MB shop

 

[gsxr]

You don't need the special tool to remove the top rails between sprockets. The tool just makes it easier. If those rails are old, they will just break apart when you try to remove them anyway. Try not to drop plastic bits into the engine...

 

[J-Sauce]

Dave, how do you replace the upper rails without the pin puller tool? Home made slide hammer?

Removing the upper rails (2 in left head and 1 in right head) involves substantially more work. Removal of the power steering pump/reservoir/bracket, removal of the air pump/bracket. You can visually see if they are cracked and if not, you can probably leave them. If they are chipped or cracking though, those plastic pieces have/will fall to the oil pan and turn your engine into a literally ticking time bomb.

 

[gsxr]

You need a pin puller or slide hammer setup for the rails which are pinned in the head. Justin is correct, it's a LOT more work to replace these, but they are often broken by 100-150kmi. You'll also end up with a lot of "while you're in there" stuff, like all the PCV tubes which will break when you remove the valve covers, might as well re-seal the PS pump and do the reservoir hose while it's off the engine, with all that removed it's not much more time to change the front crank seal... etc, etc...

If the rails are not recent, I would change them on principle. I can't remember the last time I've heard of a chain actually failing (maybe never?) but the rails falling apart is pretty common. When the top piece breaks off it's easy to see (photo below), but you generally cannot see the condition of the lower edge of the rail without removing all four cam sprockets. Sometimes the upper part of the rail looks fine but the lower part has broken off.

 

[fastcar]

Thanks guys,, looks like I will go with ?? doing it all ,, so its done,, there goes my beer $$$,, for the next 5 years ,, will let you what happens, this will take about 4 weeks before I can get parts and get the car to the shop,, Thanks again,,,

 

[samiam44]

I think you are better with someone familar with this task. Not an easy job with all the cam sprockets.

You might be able to borrow some of the chain crimper from a list member or perhaps another list with some Canadians. The puller is fairly inexpensive for the pins. I have seen ppl use allen screw and washer- more time consuming.. but probably can improvise.

I don't know of a M119 guide which broke a motor, but it was not uncommon that on M117's that a broken piece of guide would wedge in the chain somehow and chain would fail. Gerry or Jono could fill-in on that if you are interested.

Piece of mind is worth a bit...

Michael

 

[J-Sauce]

I don't know of a M119 guide which broke a motor

This very nearly happened to me. The pieces of chain guide had accumulated in my oil pan and were being sucked against the oil pickup screen, completely blocking oil flow to the top of the engine. I heard the tell-tale ticking noise before any permanent damage was done, but it could have been much worse.

I recently took apart an early engine with 150Kmi on it and the guides were still intact. Even the top rails/clips/seals were still soft and pliable. I believe this was thanks to frequent oil changes because the rest of the interior of the engine was also very clean. Conversely, I took another apart this week with similar mileage and this is what the oil tubes looked like. The rails were disintegrated. In short, keep your oil changes up and these should last a fairly long time.

 

[gerryvz]

Wow, time to break out the purple cleaner for those pups !!!

 

[J-Sauce]

Wow, time to break out the purple cleaner for those pups !!!

Way ahead of you. Here is the final product after 3-4 chemical baths. These two guys opted to reuse the old o-rings or I would usually remove them before cleaning. This was without ANY elbow grease or scrubbing.