Tool needed for subframe bushing replacement

[Scotts cars]

Hi everyone I am new on here, I am looking and been looking for a rear SUB FRAME BUSH INSTALLER REMOVAL TOOL for my mercedes-benz 190e 1989 w201, I can not find the tool for the job can someone help me out or can someone put me in touch with someone how can help me out, thank you so much for taking the time to Reed this post thanks again Ian

 

[gsxr]

Most of the aftermarket tools are NLA, unless you can find a used one for sale. The job can be done without special tools, read the PDF linked below. Plan on it taking a half-day or longer.

http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/W124/subframe_bushing_install.pdf

 

[Kyiv]

Might as well buy Mercedes-branded bushings. They are only slightly more expensive

 

[TerryA]

Most of the aftermarket tools are NLA, unless you can find a used one for sale. The job can be done without special tools, read the PDF linked below. Plan on it taking a half-day or longer.

http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/W124/subframe_bushing_install.pdf

@gsxr, That’s a great explanation Dave

 

[robm.UK]

This is the tool I used on my R129. Similar to w124 chassis.

JTC Mercedes Benz W210 Sub-Frame Bush Installer/Remover | JTC 4161 | JTC TOOLS #4161 | Taiwan | Unspecified Length

Applicable: BENZ W210.

www.ebay.com

When I bought it was around $200. Bit pricey now.

 

[IslandMon]

I am looking and been looking for a rear SUB FRAME BUSH INSTALLER REMOVAL TOOL for my mercedes-benz 190e 1989 w201

I have the miller 9111 and 9112 tools that are used on the 500E. Not sure if they will work for your model, but I will sell them if you need them. PM me

 

[Scotts cars]

I have the miller 9111 and 9112 tools that are used on the 500E. Not sure if they will work for your model, but I will sell them if you need them. PM me

Hi thanks for getting back to me, I will have a look not shore my selfe cheers Ian

 

[TerryA]

This is the tool I used on my R129. Similar to w124 chassis.

JTC Mercedes Benz W210 Sub-Frame Bush Installer/Remover | JTC 4161 | JTC TOOLS #4161 | Taiwan | Unspecified Length

Applicable: BENZ W210.

www.ebay.com

When I bought it was around $200. Bit pricey now.

Nice tool but for $650.00 to use once or twice I would go with the PIA gsxr method.

I already have o many one time used tools.

lol

 

[Scotts cars]

Nice tool but for $650.00 to use once or twice I would go with the PIA gsxr method.

I already have o many one time used tools.

lol

Thanks for letting me know, yes it is a bit pricy I think I will go with the other option lol cheers Ian

 

[robm.UK]

That price has got to be a typo surely. Worth checking with vendor. Maybe $65 last of the line. Lol

 

[Stegel]

It has a woeful description, but is this the correct piece of kit?

Mercedes E 124-210, S W140-124, SLR 129, SLK R170 Removal Install bush Tool 3696893326210 | eBay

S W140-124, SLR 129, SLK R170. Removal and Install bush tool. - Once we receive the defective item a new. be notified of the fault within 48 hours. - If the goods you received were incorrect because of.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[gsxr]

That appears to be a rear wheel bearing R&R tool. Their description is less than useless.

 

[Stegel]

That appears to be a rear wheel bearing R&R tool. Their description is less than useless.

Thanks - with no sense of scale and scant detail I thought it worth a try - thankfully I didn’t buy it!

 

[gsxr]

If it really is a wheel bearing tool, the price is quite good... but you still need other tools to remove the hub first.

I don't know why the subframe tools have become so scarce. See if the Klann-Gedore subframe tool kit is still available. Might get one from Europe for a decent price.

 

[robm.UK]

Here are some shots of the rear subframe R&R, which turned into a rear end full resto.

Just to give you some insight into
a) how far you need to drop subframe if you try to remove the bushings in situ;
b) what happens if the rear bushings don’t want to let go of the rear chassis spigots

View attachment 126292

So this shot tells the story. No guesses for what happened next. The puller extracted the corroded aluminium core and left the bushing behind. So had to prise remains of bushing out.

View attachment 126293

In UK we have a continual battle against corrosion. Couldn’t free off rear bushings from chassis spigots, due to tiny lip of corrosion. Had to use 3 legged puller to drop rear.

View attachment 126294

After inspecting condition and state of corrosion. All surface corrosion fortunately. Caught in time. Decided on full resto.

View attachment 126295

Clean off rust. Acid etch with zinc phosphate loaded phosphoric acid.

View attachment 126296

Zinga cold galvanising paint. Brush applied with spray applied sealer coat.

View attachment 126297

POR epoxy paint. Made in USA.

View attachment 126298

Differential mounts.

View attachment 126299

New MB bushings.

View attachment 126300

Clean up axle half shafts. 500 has thicker shafts. Nice.

View attachment 126301

New rubber boots, clips, POR paint.

View attachment 126302

Restore underside. Fuel/brake lines, hoses, sway bar, mounts.

View attachment 126303

Refurbed diff. MB rebuild kit. Clean, repaint. New fuel pumps, accumulator, filter, lines.

View attachment 126304

View attachment 126305

Hasn’t stopped me driving it.

 

[robm.UK]

Should have said this is my 1992 R129 500 SL.

Actually, it all started with the rear LCA joints. One thing led to another...

View attachment 126307

and just in case anyone is wondering... my marriage is still intact

 

[TerryA]

Should have said this is my 1992 R129 500 SL.

Actually, it all started with the rear LCA joints. One thing led to another...

View attachment 126307

and just in case anyone is wondering... my marriage is still intact

Rob,

That's a beautiful job. It looks brand new under there.

 

[robm.UK]

Yeah... I must confess I didn’t plan it to turn out like that. If full resto had been my intention, I probably wouldn’t have started the work. But I know, having gone through the process, it would have been a poor decision to stop at the first hurdle.

I would say this. Anyone else considering this extent of repair work, make sure you give yourself time. The work took 3 months. Working around family duties/commitments. I did forego other pleasures

For anyone working on the rear subframe, especially UK , I recommend injecting wax oil preservative into the cavities/internal sections. With subframe off I heated the subframe up a little with a hair drier to get the wax flowing, rotating the frame to get a good coverage. Excess wax oil will drip from the small drainage holes, but this is good. Keeps the drainage holes clear.

My SL is low mileage, and was garaged with limited use after the first four years of its life. Despite this I was surprised to find how much much surface rust there was underneath the underseal.

Here’s a shot during the strip out and investigation.

View attachment 126411

and fore, more corrosion

View attachment 126412

I suspect that the majority of MBs from ‘90s that have spent any prolonged period of time outside on the drive or in the street in the UK will have hidden corrosion. My ‘92 190d 2.5 and ‘90 300d are no exception.

I probed the complete underside in a grid pattern, uncovering debonded underseal to expose rust. Cleaned it up, and refinished with galena grey on MB rubberised underseal, on primer, on a light dusting (no more than a dust coat) of acid etch primer, on Zinga cold galvanising moisture cure paint.

Also sills, wheel arches, front end... the lot.

Not wanting to stray too far from the point of the thread. If you’re replacing the rear subframe mounts and the alloy cores are crumbling to white dust, just have a good look around for other corrosion. Best to treat it early.

 

[ArauzMotoring]

Yeah... I must confess I didn’t plan it to turn out like that. If full resto had been my intention, I probably wouldn’t have started the work. But I know, having gone through the process, it would have been a poor decision to stop at the first hurdle.

I would say this. Anyone else considering this extent of repair work, make sure you give yourself time. The work took 3 months. Working around family duties/commitments. I did forego other pleasures

For anyone working on the rear subframe, especially UK , I recommend injecting wax oil preservative into the cavities/internal sections. With subframe off I heated the subframe up a little with a hair drier to get the wax flowing, rotating the frame to get a good coverage. Excess wax oil will drip from the small drainage holes, but this is good. Keeps the drainage holes clear.

My SL is low mileage, and was garaged with limited use after the first four years of its life. Despite this I was surprised to find how much much surface rust there was underneath the underseal.

Here’s a shot during the strip out and investigation.

View attachment 126411

and fore, more corrosion

View attachment 126412

I suspect that the majority of MBs from ‘90s that have spent any prolonged period of time outside on the drive or in the street in the UK will have hidden corrosion. My ‘92 190d 2.5 and ‘90 300d are no exception.

I probed the complete underside in a grid pattern, uncovering debonded underseal to expose rust. Cleaned it up, and refinished with galena grey on MB rubberised underseal, on primer, on a light dusting (no more than a dust coat) of acid etch primer, on Zinga cold galvanising moisture cure paint.

Also sills, wheel arches, front end... the lot.

Not wanting to stray too far from the point of the thread. If you’re replacing the rear subframe mounts and the alloy cores are crumbling to white dust, just have a good look around for other corrosion. Best to treat it early.

Sadly, your pictures don’t show up

 

[mro500]

Sadly, your pictures don’t show up

I just made an account to see his pictures and already just since 2021 they're gone... so much info lost on so many forums because of this

 

[gerryvz]

I just made an account to see his pictures and already just since 2021 they're gone... so much info lost on so many forums because of this

The forum automatically archives any photo, the moment it is posted or linked to. In the past, forum settings were such that a post author could delete a post, or photos in a post, for many months after the content was posted.

Because individuals have deleted valuable content well after the fact, we have had to tighten up the settings, so that all photos are captured immediately, and cannot be deleted except for a short period after a post is made. This allows the forum to maintain photos indefinitely.

Unfortunately in the case of this individual, he got angry and deleted a bunch of his content during the period when forum management was more "generous" with the ability to edit & delete posts and content.

This should not be much of a problem in the future.

Many forum settings, which for many years were very very generous, have been abused by either members or scammers/spammers, and have had to be tightened up significantly.

 

[gsxr]

I just made an account to see his pictures and already just since 2021 they're gone... so much info lost on so many forums because of this

@mro500 - there are many other threads and other photos about this particular job - search this forum for details about the subframe bushings.

Click the link in post #2 above and view the PDF with info about doing this job without the special tools.