Trouble shooting window motor

[wf758]

The following "instructions" are from an eBay advert for a used OEM motor.

I'm wondering if this would really work? What amperage would you want to set the charger? Thoughts?

~~~~~~~~~

OWN A 1990 TO 1995 MERCEDES W124 FOUR DOOR 300E OR E320?

HAVING TROUBLE WITH A STUBBORN RIGHT FRONT WINDOW MOTOR?

IF YOU SIMPLY DO NOT KNOW WHY YOUR RIGHT FRONT WINDOW DOES NOT WORK, AND YOU ARE A DO IT YOURSELF INDIVIDUAL, THERE IS A TEST YOU CAN DO DIRECTLY TO THE WINDOW MOTOR.

I AM NOT A MECHANIC. HOWEVER, I HAVE LEARNED A FEW REPAIR STEPS ON MY OWN OVER THE YEARS. AND THIS IS ONE OF THEM.

YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTOR FROM THE CAR FOR THIS TEST.

YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE DOOR PANEL.

AND YOU WILL NEED A SEPARATE 12 VOLT POWER SUPPLY LIKE A BATTERY CHARGER.

I STUMBLED THROUGH A SIMILAR WINDOW ISSUE ON MY OWN MERCEDES W124 YEARS AGO AND WOULD LIKE TO PASS ON SOME HELPFUL INFORMATION THAT MAY GUIDE YOU AWAY FROM BUYING THE WRONG PART.

FIRST, TO CONFIRM PROPER PLACEMENT OF THIS MOTOR ON THE MERCEDES, IMAGINE STANDING BEHIND YOURS.

YOUR RIGHT SIDE IS ALSO THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE CAR.

SO WITH THAT SAID, THIS GENUINE USED BOSCH MOTOR FITS THE RIGHT FRONT WINDOW LOCATION OF YOUR 1990 TO 1995 MERCEDES W124 FOUR DOOR.

IT'S ALWAYS BEST IF YOU HAVE ALREADY CONFIRMED THAT YOUR OLD RIGHT FRONT WINDOW MOTOR IS A BOSCH MOTOR PART NUMBER 0130821261 TO PROCEED.

I STRONGLY URGE YOU TO DO SO ESPECIALLY IF YOU ARE NOT THE ORIGINAL OWNER OF YOUR W124.

A PREVIOUS OWNER MAY HAVE INSTALLED AN AFTERMARKET REGULATOR HAVING A DIFFERENT MOTOR PART NUMBER.

NOW, FOR THE TEST.

REMOVE THE RIGHT FRONT DOOR PANEL AND LOOK TO THE LEFT SIDE OF THE DOOR FOR THE JUNCTION BLOCK.

THE JUNCTION BLOCK IS SIMILAR TO THE ONE I NOW HAVE ATTACHED TO THE MOTOR'S WIRES IN THIS LISTING.

I AM INCLUDING THIS GENUINE USED JUNCTION BLOCK SHOULD YOU DISCOVER, AS I OFTEN DO, YOUR JUNCTION BLOCK IS BROKEN.

OR IT BREAKS WHEN YOU ATTEMPT TO REMOVE SCREWS SEIZED IN PLACE WITH RUST.

REMOVE THE JUNCTION BLOCK SCREWS AND PULL THE MOTOR'S GREEN AND BLACK WIRES FREE.

CONNECT THE BATTERY CHARGER'S POSITIVE CABLE TO THE MOTOR'S GREEN WIRE.

CONNECT THE CHARGER'S NEGATIVE CABLE TO THE MOTOR'S BLACK WIRE.

THIS FIRST CONNECTION MAY NOT PROVIDE A RESULT AS IT MAY BE A COMMAND TO RAISE AN ALREADY RAISED WINDOW.

DID THE WINDOW MOVE NORMALLY WITH THIS FIRST CONNECTION? YES? GREAT!

NOW REVERSE THE WIRES.

REVERSE THE WIRES ANYWAY IF THE WINDOW DID NOT MOVE WITH THIS FIRST CONNECTION.

THIS MEANS TO CONNECT THE CHARGER'S POSITIVE CABLE TO THE MOTOR'S BLACK WIRE.

CONNECT THE CHARGER'S NEGATIVE WIRE TO THE MOTOR'S GREEN WIRE.

DID THE MOTOR MOVE/RETURN NORMALLY TO IT'S ORIGINAL POSITION? YES? GREAT!

YOU DO NOT NEED TO REPLACE YOUR WINDOW MOTOR.

IF THE WINDOW DID NOT MOVE NO MATTER HOW YOU CONNECTED THE WIRES, THEN IT IS LIKELY YOU DO NEED TO REPLACE THE WINDOW MOTOR.

PLEASE NOTE THIS BOSCH MOTOR IS NOT DESIGNED FOR THE MERCEDES W124 TWO DOOR COUPE.

OR THE MERCEDES W124 MODELS PRODUCED FROM 1986 TO 1989.

IF YOUR MERCEDES W124 IS ONE OF THOSE, I MAY STILL BE ABLE TO HELP WITH YOUR WINDOW MOTOR NEEDS.

THIS MOTOR WAS MOUNTED TO AN ALL STEEL BROSE RIGHT FRONT REGULATOR PART NUMBER 1247200446.

THIS MOTOR IS ALSO IDENTIFIED IN THE MERCEDES PARTS CATALOG AS PART NUMBER 0048205242.

THIS IS A USED OEM BOSCH PART SO SOME WEAR IS TO BE EXPECTED.

BY THIS I MEAN A LESS THAN BRILLIANT SHINE TO THE MOTOR CASING.

AND SOME OLD GREASE STILL IN THE HARD TO REACH PLACES.

I DO NOT STEAM CLEAN WINDOW MOTORS SINCE THIS WOULD FORCE MOISTURE INSIDE THE GEAR BOX THROUGH THE TWO BOLT TOWERS ON EITHER SIDE OF THE GEAR.

MOISTURE INSIDE THE GEAR BOX IS VERY BAD FOR THE MOVING PARTS.

I HAND CLEANED MOST OF THE OLD GREASE OFF SO YOU WILL NOT HAVE TO.

ESPECIALLY FROM THE GEAR TEETH.

OLD GREASE STILL ON GEAR TEETH, OR GEAR TEETH THAT YOU CANNOT SEE IN PICTURES, AS IN OTHER LISTINGS, MAY HAVE HIDDEN DAMAGE OR WEAR YOU WOULD OTHERWISE PASS UP.

PLEASE CLICK ON ANY PICTURE TO SEE LARGER MORE DETAILED VIEWS OF THIS PART.

I CAN SEE NO EVIDENCE OF WEAR, IN THE FORM OF GROOVE WEAR, ON ANY OF THE 10 GEAR TEETH.

THERE ARE NO NICKS OR CHUNKS MISSING FROM THE TEETH.

SPLICING IS NOT NECESSARY AS THE FACTORY CONNECTORS ARE INTACT.

WHEN TESTED THE MOTOR STARTED INSTANTLY. RUNNING FULL SPEED, STEADY, AND WITHOUT HESITATION.

A NICE EVEN HUMMING SOUND JUST LIKE IT SHOULD BE.

PLEASE CONFIRM YOUR OLD MOTOR'S PART NUMBER IS 0130821261 BEFORE PURCHASE.

INTERNATIONAL EBAY MEMBERS PLEASE NOTE.

YOUR COUNTRY'S IMPORT TAX/FEE ADDED AT CUSTOMS, IS NOT PART OF THE LISTING PRICE.

THIS FEE IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY.

PLEASE ASK ANY QUESTIONS YOU MIGHT HAVE.

THANKS​

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[gsxr]

The window motors ALMOST never fail. 99.44% of the time it's the regulator (mechanical part, not electrical) that breaks. The rears fail much more often than the front. If the window isn't going up or down, it's usually the fuse, switch, or convenience relay... last item to suspect would be the motor.

 

[emerydc8]

The window motors ALMOST never fail. 99.44% of the time it's the regulator (mechanical part, not electrical) that breaks. The rears fail much more often than the front. If the window isn't going up or down, it's usually the fuse, switch, or convenience relay... last item to suspect would be the motor.

Hey, Dave. I ordered a new front window motor from Napperville thinking that mine had gone bad. When I mounted and hooked the new motor up, it didn't work either. Then I realized that I am not getting 12V to the junction box on the door where the motor terminals mount. I traced the problem to a clicking noise coming from a relay box under the back seat on the driver's side when I move the window switch. Is this the convenience relay you refer to above? When I unplug this relay, the clicking stops when I move the window switch, so I'm assuming that this is where the problem lies. Do you know if this box is sold as a complete unit or can I get individual relays? Thanks!

 

[captruff]

John

I can sell you a used working module for $32.00 delivered

jeff

 

[emerydc8]

Can't ask for more than that! Send me an email or PM Jeff. Thanks!

 

[gsxr]

... Is this the convenience relay you refer to above? When I unplug this relay, the clicking stops when I move the window switch, so I'm assuming that this is where the problem lies. Do you know if this box is sold as a complete unit or can I get individual relays? Thanks!

Hi Jon,

Yes, that is the convenience module in your photo... has the "one touch down" function built in and whatnot. They're not a common failure, but I have had to replace one or two. See if Jeff's unit fixes your problem!

BTW, as you may have discovered, it's a bit of a puzzle box to get the wires unplugged. No major force should be required, it will all slide apart when you're doin' it right.

 

[emerydc8]

Thanks for the input, Dave. That sliding retainer cap on the relay box is an engineering masterpiece! I'm surprised the plastic didn't break after all these years. Glad I don't have to do any soldering here.

 

[northNH]

My new wagon's driver side front window smoothly whizzes up and down, with alacrity, but makes a loud repetitive clicking noise but only when it reaches the very top. The window fully seals as it should.
Car did come with a correct replacement regulator.

Where exactly am I going to see the lesion once I open 'er up?
TIA

 

[Trae]

a·lac·ri·ty
əˈlakrədē/
noun
noun: alacrity
brisk and cheerful readiness.

 

[emerydc8]

a·lac·ri·ty
əˈlakrədē/
noun
noun: alacrity
brisk and cheerful readiness.

Kind of like how you answer the phone when you're on reserve and scheduling calls.

 

[emerydc8]

Hey, Dave. I ordered a new front window motor from Napperville thinking that mine had gone bad. When I mounted and hooked the new motor up, it didn't work either. Then I realized that I am not getting 12V to the junction box on the door where the motor terminals mount. I traced the problem to a clicking noise coming from a relay box under the back seat on the driver's side when I move the window switch. Is this the convenience relay you refer to above? When I unplug this relay, the clicking stops when I move the window switch, so I'm assuming that this is where the problem lies. Do you know if this box is sold as a complete unit or can I get individual relays? Thanks!

GSXR said,
Hi Jon,

Yes, that is the convenience module in your photo... has the "one touch down" function built in and whatnot. They're not a common failure, but I have had to replace one or two. See if Jeff's unit fixes your problem!

BTW, as you may have discovered, it's a bit of a puzzle box to get the wires unplugged. No major force should be required, it will all slide apart when you're doin' it right.

Fast forward 2.5 years and I just had the window stop working on my 95 today. All other windows worked but the driver's side was stuck down. I could hear the relay under the driver's-side rear seat clicking with switch activation. I immediately went hunting for the relay that Jeff sold me a long time ago. I am so glad I had this in my spares! It was either the one Jeff sold me or one that I bought in addition. Aside from struggling with the Rube Goldberg harness connectors, it was a piece of cake. I ordered two more relays just in case. Part #202 820 09 26. Everyone should have one of these in his spares.

 

[Seangbadee]

GSXR said,
Hi Jon,

Yes, that is the convenience module in your photo... has the "one touch down" function built in and whatnot. They're not a common failure, but I have had to replace one or two. See if Jeff's unit fixes your problem!

BTW, as you may have discovered, it's a bit of a puzzle box to get the wires unplugged. No major force should be required, it will all slide apart when you're doin' it right.

Fast forward 2.5 years and I just had the window stop working on my 95 today. All other windows worked but the driver's side was stuck down. I could hear the relay under the driver's-side rear seat clicking with switch activation. I immediately went hunting for the relay that Jeff sold me a long time ago. I am so glad I had this in my spares! It was either the one Jeff sold me or one that I bought in addition. Aside from struggling with the Rube Goldberg harness connectors, it was a piece of cake. I ordered two more relays just in case. Part #202 820 09 26. Everyone should have one of these in his spares.

I just experienced an almost similar thing with my car. The windows wouldn’t move, the radio auto on/off function was not working and the moon roof would not activate. I removed the relay, cleaned it, put it back in and nothing worked. I was doing some research and found that there is a comfort relay in the fuse box, under the hood (the plastic cover needs to be removed to access this relay) with part # 0015427819. I replaced this, and suddenly got all my features back.

 

[gsxr]

Sean, was it relay "F" in the diagram below?

 

[Seangbadee]

I believe it was F. There is another one next to it “A”. They both had the same part number and I changed that too

 

[Seangbadee]

I believe it was F. There is another one next to it “A”. They both had the same part number and I changed that too

It was definitely the one marked “F”