Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Hi and thank you for your input...Sounds to me like it's just spinning with no compression wonder if the timing chain snapped?? Easy way to tell would be have someone turn it over with one of the the caps off ( with the ignition disabled!!) to see if the rotor is turning.
Well I hope you are right!!Don't panic yet. That does not sound at all like a M119 engine without compression.
Hi yes I replaced the crankshaft position sensor with a known working item.Is the cps working?
Michael
Well that may offer some reprieve for my tortured mind.The cranking does sound abnormal but you'd need to get an audio/video clip of the engine compartment (not from inside the car).
Doubtful the chain snapped, sure hope not as this is an interference engine. Have someone else crank it over while you look through the oil fill hole and watch the cams move.
If the cats are REALLY plugged bad, that can prevent the engine from starting, but that is not likely. You could loosen the front exhaust crossover pipe joint (or, pull the 02 sensor) as a test but neither of those are fun jobs on the street.
Back to basics - have you pulled all 8 plugs for a visual inspection? Wet? Dry? Fouled? All 8 look the same or not? Etc...
Warning: A used starter may not be any better than your old one. As long as your engine is cranking, a different starter probably will not make any difference.
![]()
Yes sirSomething to keep in mind... low compression (or no compression) would result in the engine spinning faster than normal. Samm is saying his engine is cranking slower than normal.
![]()
Something to keep in mind... low compression (or no compression) would result in the engine spinning faster than normal. Samm is saying his engine is cranking slower than normal.
![]()
Yes sir
The car is cranking slower than normal. I mean many of you have m119 engines so I would welcome your inputs....
Well tomorrow I will be doing more diagnostic work and will have more info. I want to keep everyone updated in case someone runs into this problem in the future.
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
Thank you for the useful video...You should do a compression test first of all. thats the route i would go...if the compression is not where its supposed to be...then you will never get it to start or run.
Check out this video...obviously it is a 4 cylinder..but you can kinda hear the same " non jumpy compreesiony engine..just like there is no ..or LESS resistance in the engine..
Skip to 1min 40 seconds "ish..
[video=youtube;9KcA6n3o4tI]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9KcA6n3o4tI[/video]
Lowmangood stuff.just take it easy..and do this first and take it from there.
You also want to look for big differences in the compression...not sooooo important what the "pressure" is...but more important that the cylinders are more or less the same in compression.The actual spec of how much compression it should have..i really dont know exact.
The engine should be warm when doing this..and remember to remove all spark plugs when doing the test..and also you should disconnect the coil,and the throttle should be pressed down fully to make the throttle flap stay fully open.
ALSO..this would be the time to check if ANY of the sparkplugs are even remotly loose...that could lead to low compression aswell..even though you would then again HEAR it like "spitting" the compression...like "hissing" sound on each "compression stroke"..
Again i want to point out that im not saying there IS low compression...im just saying thats what i hear when i hear the video.And my suggestion to check the compression...is to have that ruled out of the equation
i want to wish you suuuuper good luck mate![]()
Lowman
Thank you for your advice...one question though...I cannot get the car Started so how can I get the engine warm?
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
Well believe it or not I have nobody that can help me at all.oh yes..sorry..well...just try and do it when it got some "heat" in it..like..not standing out in 20minus degrees celcsius.
and when it comes to what to do if the car has "less" or no compression..that you will have to deal with then.And NO compression means that the Cylinder is not holding the pressure that the piston creates.so either leaking through valves...head gasket,or through piston/ or piston rings.
But it really dont think it has snapped...the chain that is..then you wouldnt be able to turn over the engine most likely.
It can possibly it has skipped because of maybe the guide rails disintegrated..or something.
But do the compression test first..i think that will tell you alot,,do you have a friend that can help you out?
Uh, hold on a sec here... before you get too crazy, do the simple test I mentioned before. Have someone crank the engine while you look through the oil fill hole. If you see the camshafts turn, the chain is NOT broken.But...if it turns out that the timing chain skipped or snapped then I would completely disagree with the bullet proof assessment.
But anyway. When I do the compression test..if there is no compression what does this mean? That the Crankshaft and camshafts are not connected by the timing chain?
Guys this is the closest sound I can find on you tube that sounds similar to my car. I know I will do my own checks today...just curious because I have never seen this problem before in 15 years fixing all my cars.
https://youtu.be/hNqCekY0Rp8
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
Good day gsxrUh, hold on a sec here... before you get too crazy, do the simple test I mentioned before. Have someone crank the engine while you look through the oil fill hole. If you see the camshafts turn, the chain is NOT broken.
It's not likely the chain has jumped either - but you'd have to pull both valve covers to check this. I can't think of anyone ever reporting a jumped timing chain on an M119.
Also: Performing a compression test on the M119 is not a piece of cake. The factory manual says to only use a remote starter switch to crank with the key OFF. I don't think you will have the tools available to do this, so if you crank with the key you MUST disconnect the EZL first, and also pull the fuel pump relay. This will ensure there is no fuel or spark while cranking. And you have to pull all 8 spark plugs out before testing. And you need a good, fully charged battery. And you need a good starter or the results will be inaccurate. And it isn't easy to get the aftermarket compression tester hose threaded into the threads at the bottom of the deep hole. And if you booger up the threads, or tighten the tester too much and can't get it unscrewed, you are screwed. I've done M119 compression testing many times, I would not go there unless you rule out a lot of other things first. Just sayin'...
Klink, if you're out there, would love to hear your $0.02!
![]()
Yes you are correct...it does sound similar to the other video you posted...well I will do the compression test as the final test. Gsxr has warned me about potential complications with the compression test. But if I have to do it I will, after I confirm other things first.indeed...the same "sound" as in the 4 cylinder movie i posted...so..if you reckognize this sound in the video you posted...i totally stand for my suggestion about testing your engine compression ...as in your video..i really think it sounds the same as the other two videos...even though it seems also your battery is not very up to charge.
And another thing..this does not have to do with timing chain or guides...it can also be hydraulic lifter problem.
Well.......Actually, it sounds a little bit like what happens when carbon falls off the valves and sticks them open just as you are cranking. Some of the valves get stuck open, and then the oil pressure enters the lifters thereby taking up the space and holding some valves open. And in extremely rare cases, a sticking oil pressure relief valve in the oil pump will push some of the valves off of the valve seats just as the engine starts. In each scenario you get crank and engine start, immediately followed by engine stall and a weird sound on attempted restarts, as yours seems to be doing. However, that restart cranking speed will usually seem a little high, not a little low, as yours seems to sound. Maybe your battery is a little weak after restart attempts.
Everyone seems to have hit most of the basics, but I want to repeat that you check your battery terminals, most especially the small additional wires that are on the positive battery terminal for good condition and contact, etc. etc.
Make sure that while your key is in the run position, and while you were cranking that the row of warning bulbs at the bottom of the instrument panel stay illuminated. Ignition switches can develop poor contact on circuits other than the cranking circuit, then the combined voltage drop from cranking demand along with voltage drop in the switch can cause the other important circuits to be low on voltage while you are cranking. A common contact to experience this anomaly is the one that feeds the ignition system. Do you have spark coming from the coils? No spark could mean a faulty ignition switch. Unfortunately, sudden EZL death has the same symptoms, and is even more common than a faulty switch.
Regarding valve lock, If everything seems to be in order, get a big ass jumper battery, hook it up, floor the gas pedal, and crank the motor for at least 20 seconds without interruption. If during that time you feel the motor start to fire continue cranking without interruption until it finally starts up. I would not crank it longer than about 45 seconds without interruption.
Obviously, this advice assumes you don't have major mechanical damage or some other undiagnosed problem. If you do, this procedure may make everything worse. There is a certain sound and feel to this condition, and obviously, I cannot be there to experience it and make that judgment.
If you are right how on earth can the chain jump?Chain jumped or broke. Engines shelled.
If that video was taken with all 8 spark plugs installed... that's not good. It does sound like a compression issue and your next check is camshaft timing after pulling valve cover(s).This the sound from the engine bay.
Spark and fuel are ok.
GsxrIf that video was taken with all 8 spark plugs installed... that's not good. It does sound like a compression issue and your next check is camshaft timing after pulling valve cover(s).
![]()
Well I really appreciate your detailed response Gsxr. Dave.This is REALLY bizarre. Are you certain you trust the compression gauge you are using?
The chain could theoretically jump if the upper guide rails are all broken along with a large helping of plain bad luck. I don't think I've ever heard of a report of a M119 timing chain jumping (nor breaking) on any of the MB forums. Maybe Klink has heard of it but it's gotta be bloody rare.
You can check camshaft timing (to verify the chain jumped) by removing at least one valve cover and seeing if the cams will pin at, or at least close to, 45° BTDC per the factory specs. Worn/broken rails may cause 5-8° of misalignment at the passenger exhaust cam. If it was 1 tooth off that would be 20° off at the balancer (i.e., ~25° BTDC), 2 teeth would be 40° off, etc. At this point you may want to pull one valve cover for additional diagnostics... I'd pull the passenger side since that is easier (don't need to disconnect any fuel hoses, nor the vac pipe to the brake booster). Be careful with the PCV hose at the rear, if it's fossilized, don't break it.
If the chain really has jumped, first thing is to reset all 4 cams to the correct timing per the manual, and replace any broken chain rails to prevent the chain from jumping again. You might get lucky and get it running again.
Worst case scenario is that valves were bent in which case you're looking at a replacement motor. Good news is you can source a used 4.2L motor pretty cheap (Jeff might have one for a few hundred bucks?), bad news is an engine swap isn't fun. I'd be very, very surprised if your motor really is toast...
![]()
KlinkOK, at this point you have little to lose. If you have not already done so, you need to do the big ass battery/jumpstart crank at full throttle for AT LEAST 20 seconds continuously and see if it starts to light off. Remember, your compression readings will be bad if your valves have been pumped open. Only repeated compression by the camshafts will re-compress the lifters until the valves seat.
I have only ever seen chains break or jump on the early KE injection M119 which uses a different block and a different chain arrangement.
I have seen the lifter extension syndrome that I am describing countless times on all M119s.