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Center Console Bulb

Hey G-Man,

The bulb number is: N072601 012230. It's a little 1.2W bulb. This is from the EPC.
Your local dealer should have it in stock.

Cheers,
Gerry
 

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Thanks Gerry. Any how-to out there on how to access it? Do I have to remove the wood panel or can I get to it just by removing the plastic trim around the shifter?
 
Is this the same peanut bulb that is used in the air vent regulator wheels? I've looked in the EPC for an hour and can't find the bulb. Or is it this one (002544 0194)?


EDIT: I went out and pulled the burnt out bulb from my left air vent regulator wheel. It looks like the one in the link above and is .5 watt. So, unless a PO replaced it with the wrong bulb, I think this is the bulb I need.
 

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Excellent. Then the .5 w bulb I pulled out of my air vent was the wrong bulb anyway. Thanks! Just ordered a bunch from FCP Euro.
 
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Excellent. Then the .5 w bulb I pulled out of my air vent was the wrong bulb anyway. Thanks!

I dunno about that. Looking at the EPC --- "Air Nozzle Lighting" for the left/right air nozzles use a different bulb and have a different part number from the auto trans indicator light. (I can't seem to find the center air nozzle though).

1567654364931.png
 
I see your window switches are not illuminated. They are supposed to, right? What about your rear window door switches in the back, do they light up? Thanks!
 
I see your window switches are not illuminated. They are supposed to, right? What about your rear window door switches in the back, do they light up? Thanks!

The front window switches are illuminated. My first picture had the window switches blocked by the arm rest. C'mon, I'm more anal than that! :-) :-) The rears are also illuminated.
 

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@emerydc8 , are you guessing that gear shiftier bulb will work for the air vent rotary dials?


Kiev, looking at the EPC parts diagram posted by @Jlaa (post #8), I think they are different than the transmission bulb. Maybe the center vents are the same as the transmission bulb. In any case, I ordered 20 of the transmission bulbs and 10 of the .5 w bulbs with the gray plastic base. The .5 w bulb number shown in @Jlaa's EPC above (Air Nozzle Lighting) used to be 002 544 01 94 and was superseded to 000 000 001 061. Mercedes-Benz Bulb 000000-001061-64 | MB OEM Parts
 
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I think it's important to give @Jlaa more credit than that. There's no way on God's Green Earth that he'd let something so glaring as a window switch or dash vent rotating wheel go un-lit on his car !! He may be a big booster of TYC and KAE parts, but he's no slacker when it comes to ensuring his dashboard switches are fully lit !!

That said, you MUST be really careful to get the correct illumination bulbs, both for the instrument cluster and the peanut-bulbs for the radial dash-vent rotator wheels and such. There are numerous wattages available for these bulbs' form factors, and folks have been well-known to replace them with too-high of wattages. This leads to melted sockets and worse.

So, be careful out there and only get the correct spec bulbs !! Perhaps a Wiki entry on correct bulbs would be a good idea.
 
While there are a plethora of different lamps used in various places on these cars (my personal lamp of contention being the ash tray lamp) in some cases they can be the same lamp with a different base. I buy the bare lamps with leads on them for these, as in many cases you can bend the leads back from the base, extract the lamp, and insert a new lamp and bend the leads down.

This doesn’t apply to all, but it’s nice having the ability to do this and not have to source five different lamps that have the same envelope but a different base.

Dan
 
With regard to replacing the bulb in the center vent, I thought there was a HOW-TO on this, but can't find it now. I see two clips on the left side of the vent (like the four on the side vents) and the adjustment rod bolt (4mm). Is that all that holds it in? If I remove the 4mm adjustment rod bolt does it go back in pretty easily? Anyone done this job?
 
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With regard to replacing the bulb in the center vent, I thought there was a HOW-TO on this, but can't find it now. I see two clips on the left side of the vent (like the four on the side vents) and the adjustment rod bolt (4mm). Is that all that holds it in? If I remove the 4mm adjustment rod bolt does it go back in pretty easily? Anyone done this job?
There's a screw on one side (passenger side?) and two spring clips on the opposite side which must be pried upward, then with the 4mm rod unscrewed, it pries outward. Then the wire is a nuisance to R&R in the channel to get the bulb out, you'll see once you get it apart.

:sawzall:
 
There's a screw on one side (passenger side?) and two spring clips on the opposite side which must be pried upward, then with the 4mm rod unscrewed, it pries outward. Then the wire is a nuisance to R&R in the channel to get the bulb out, you'll see once you get it apart.

:sawzall:
So the air bag has to come out?
 
Pass air bag must come out (one bolt) to remove the screw holding on the right side of the vent.
Unless you’ve replaced the AB with a proper glove compartment, then you just have to open it to access the screw.
 
So the air bag has to come out?
Yup, as northNH said, have to pull the passenger airbag. This doesn't take long, unplug the red electrical connector in passenger footwell, remove single center bolt, and it pops out.
 
The front window switches are illuminated. My first picture had the window switches blocked by the arm rest. C'mon, I'm more anal than that! :) :) The rears are also illuminated.

Is the exposure tricking me into thinking you have installed some sort of shift indicator light? (P is brighter than the other positions)
 
@Jlaa, have you ever had to replace bulbs in window switches?
I have not. Maybe just replace the whole switch? You can pick up gazillions of them from the junkyard and swap on your nice clean switch rocker plastic.
 
The switches do not have replaceable bulbs; they are LED's, I believe? Replace the entire switch if needed. I've never seen one fail though!

💡
 
Indeed, far easier just to replace the switch, if needed. I have 10-15 examples of each and every switch in my deep-parts stock, so if anyone needs a switch, please let me know. I would be happy to send one to you, gratis (except for postage cost).

DO NOT buy the Chinese-made (URO) and similar cheap aftermarket switches. Far better to get a used MB original that was made in Germany.
 
Hmm... None of my switches illuminate. I must have some other underlying problem
 
Hmm... None of my switches illuminate. I must have some other underlying problem
Rotate the dimmer knob on the cluster back & forth a bunch and see if the lights perk up. If not, yep, you have a wiring issue somewhere (assuming the cluster lights work normally and dim when rotating the knob).
 
Dave, thanks, I will experiment with dimmer knob. It is finicky, where rotating it increases brightness, then decreases, then increases again. All of my window switches do work for raising/lowering however
 
Usually if you turn the dinner rheostat back and forth rapidly about 10 times it will help clear some of the corrosion inside of it and it will work a bit better. If that doesn't work, do this two or three more times and it should clear up nicely.
 
turn the dinner rheostat back and forth rapidly about 10 times it will help clear some of the corrosion inside of it and it will work a bit better

It worked, now dimmer works properly! No illumination on any of the window switches though. Should be fun :loony:
 
@Jlaa, today I received tool set to pull instrument cluster. Do I need to disconnect anything before extracting it?
 
@Jlaa, today I received tool set to pull instrument cluster. Do I need to disconnect anything before extracting it?
Yes. ALWAYS disconnect the battery before removing the instrument cluster. And extend the steering wheel telescoping out as far as it will go before removing the cluster.
 
I agree it is safest to disconnect the battery negative terminal before messing with anything electrical, but I've never done so when pulling an instrument cluster... with no ill effects (yet). Maybe I've been lucky.

:duck:
 
You have been lucky. I have blown an instrument cluster fuse in the past by not disconnecting it. It's not too difficult to do, although 80% of the time you will probably be fine. Why gamble 20% of the time?
 
In my experience the only way you’re likely to have electrons flying around doing harm is if you don’t pry off its connectors with a metal screwdriver carefully enough.
 
Gentlemen,

the red fuse on the back of the instrument cluster is responsible for illumination of instrument + HVAC clusters + window switches illumination, correct? If my instrument and HVAC clusters light up, but window switches don't, then red fuse can't be the culprit? Thanks
 
If my instrument and HVAC clusters light up, but window switches don't, then red fuse can't be the culprit? Thanks
Correct... I believe all the illumination goes through a single circuit. If some works, it all should. Might be a ground disconnected somewhere - is there an aftermarket radio installed?

:detective:
 
Correct... I believe all the illumination goes through a single circuit. If some works, it all should. Might be a ground disconnected somewhere - is there an aftermarket radio installed?

:detective:

No, factory stereo that works. But looks like years ago, 2nd owner installed an alarm that was then removed... I think. There's a bunch of wires (5,6 or so) behind head unit that don't lead into anything. This must be the culprit
 
Correct... I believe all the illumination goes through a single circuit. If some works, it all should. Might be a ground disconnected somewhere - is there an aftermarket radio installed?

:detective:
Okay, I finally got the bulbs with the gray base today. All the lights work in my 95, but on my 94 none of the air vent bulbs or the rear window lights work (the windows will roll up and down, so that part is okay). I replaced the left side vent biulb with a new one and it still won't illuminate. I checked the card-like fuse in back of the instrument panel (the red one that looks like a micro-SD) and it looks good. The rheostat is working fine and all the instrument cluster lights are working. Any thoughts? Maybe Kiev and I have the same mechanic.
 
These are the closest diagrams I could find. Check out:
  • 1st diagram - center air outlet bulb seems to be wired in parallel with the hazard flasher switch? Does your hazard flasher work?
  • 2nd diagram - shows rear window switch wiring
  • 3rd diagram - shows left and right air outlet lighting. Looks like the right air outlet bulb is wired in series with the right front door switch. Does the door switch work?
  • 3rd diagram - the left air outlet lighting is not wired in series with the left front door switch --- if you put a volt/ohm meter on it is the BR (brown) wired tied to ground or is it floating (cut?) Does the GY/BU wire show +12v?

1568267371021.png

1568267440639.png


1568267520727.png
 
BTW here are the ground points of interest

  • W1 - Main ground behind instrument cluster (behind left side of cluster) - 235-5
  • W12 - Center Console ground (behind lower front of console) - 240-2
1568268214270.png

1568268284003.png

1568268344133.png
 
Thanks for the schematics. All the door (window) switches work (the windows roll up and down). The hazard lights work too. I have to leave town in a few hours but at least I'll have something to work with when I get back. Thanks.
 
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