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M119 runs poorly, wet spark plugs

Svein R

E500E Enthusiast
Member
Hello, I have a starting problem on my 92 SE500 W140. it just starts and runs poorly at idle, it smells of petrol and the spark plugs get completely wet. My Star tester with HHT-Win sets no codes at all. I have tested all my injectors and the are good, I have replaced all ignition parts and I have replaced all rubber and gaskets on my inlet manifold Do any of you have any views on this issue?
 
New battery, new ignition cables, spark plugs, rotors and caps. Engine won’t run so I have no measurement on voltage
 
Get a noid test lamp on one of the injector wires to verify injector pulse being sent.

Check fuel pressure at rail during cranking.

Use a spark tester on one of the plug leads to verify spark plugs are firing on both banks.
 
Insulators behind the caps have been replaced?

The ignition wire routing has been double and triple checked en ensure that the correct wires are going to the correct cylinders?
 
Thanks for the great innput. I have already tested for good sparks on all spark plugs, I’ve also tested with my timing puls lamp, good strong blink on all leads. The fuel pressure are within spec also during cranking.
 
Thanks for the great innput. I have already tested for good sparks on all spark plugs, I’ve also tested with my timing puls lamp, good strong blink on all leads. The fuel pressure are within spec also during cranking.
Did you verify fuel injector wire signal pulse too?

And as Gerry says that all ignition cables are correctly routed.
 
If all 8 plugs are firing, and the plugs are wet, and exhaust smells of fuel... the mixture is excessively rich. Need more data... any change if you disconnect the MAF? How old is the O2 sensor? Do you have a spare M119 LH module (any module / any displacement) for testing? Checked for vacuum leaks?
 
Search the forum for caps, rotors and insulators. There is a TON of information here on the forum about bad insulators creating bad ignition problems.
 
yes! But if you try to do the movement by hand, it will shut off because the switch from the gas pedal S29/3 is not active.
 
I took out all my spark plugs and they where all soaking wet. I dry them and put them back, then it starts and ran for 15sec and then stalled and stopped. When I pulled my spark plugs out again they are soaking wet again. It seems like it drowning in fuel.
 
I would try the following things:
1. engine start without MAF. If the engine runs ok, probably the MAF is defective. If not:
2. ignition on and moving the gas cable by hand until the ETA is electrically out of function.
3. Start the engine. If the engine will run ok, the ETA should be the problem.
 
Sounds to me like the MAF is reading too much air so the car is dumping fuel to compensate. Does this car have downstream O2 sensors?

maw
 
yes! But if you try to do the movement by hand, it will shut off because the switch from the gas pedal S29/3 is not active.
Okay, so what’s right then? It should go by motor when I move the throttle arm on the accuator
I would try the following things:
1. engine start without MAF. If the engine runs ok, probably the MAF is defective. If not:
2. ignition on and moving the gas cable by hand until the ETA is electrically out of function.
3. Start the engine. If the engine will run ok, the ETA should be the problem.
1. Engine won’t start with or without MAF
2. I moved the gas with hand until it shuts down electrically and tried to start, no start at all.
 
I would say that your LH-module is bad or the CPS signal is complete out of the range.
Are there really no fault codes? Especially the LH-module, the EFP and the ignition should save faults, in this case.

Can you make a video of the start?
 
I would say that your LH-module is bad or the CPS signal is complete out of the range.
Are there really no fault codes? Especially the LH-module, the EFP and the ignition should save faults, in this case.

Can you make a video of the start?
 

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Ebay perhaps.

But can you make a video from inside (instruments) and from outside (engine) at the starting process.
 
Just be sure you check part number compatibility because these sellers don't always know.

Also, if you or someone you know is skilled at rebuilding or repairing computers or audio equipment, yours can perhaps be rebuilt. What goes bad are the Fraco capacitors inside the LH module. It's a known issue at this age and many of us have rebuilt LH modules. So you could have yours rebuilt as such. Search the forum for "capacitor". Also check the for Parts for Sale forum here, as there may be one or two LH Modules available. If I could, I'd buy here rather than eBay, and you're likely to need to rebuild any you get off eBay anyway, if not now then soon enough.

IIRC the '92 500E LH module was compatible with the W140 cars, both sharing WOT enrichment. But do some research here, as it's all been covered ad nauseum.

Sample search results... Search results for query: LH part number W140

GL

maw
 
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2. I moved the gas with hand until it shuts down electrically and tried to start, no start at all.
Have an assitant move the throttle pedal inside the car with the ignition on. Observe the ETA. It should always move and emit noise. If it clicks and goes dead then you have a problem.

Notes:

Throttle pedal must be depressed when testing ETC otherwise ECU will see switch is closed and trip it out.

ETA will never open fully with engine off - this is normal and because engine ECU does not see RPMs.

Also confirm ALL ECUs within the coffin box are fully and firmly seated down in correctly. Also check all fuses within the Base Module and Fuse box in car.
 
Have an assitant move the throttle pedal inside the car with the ignition on. Observe the ETA. It should always move and emit noise. If it clicks and goes dead then you have a problem.

Notes:

Throttle pedal must be depressed when testing ETC otherwise ECU will see switch is closed and trip it out.

ETA will never open fully with engine off - this is normal and because engine ECU does not see RPMs.

Also confirm ALL ECUs within the coffin box are fully and firmly seated down in correctly. Also check all fuses within the Base Module and Fuse box in car.
Thanx I will check this
 
Excellent point. Let's back up. Was it running perfectly and then one day ran terrible?

Or had you done work and it hasn't run properly since working on it?

Etc...
Been this way since I purchased it, it’s been sitting for a long time before I purchased it.
 

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