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1993 400e rescue

With the different LH module I’m not getting any cam codes (or otherwise) anymore. No codes at all on pin 4,7, or 17.

But still runs well only with EZL vacuum unplugged.

I did however find some bio wiring… lower harness is bad. Is there anything in this harness that could cause these running symptoms? Seems like it is only the starter oil level etc. Need to rebuild regardless but I wonder if it is causing my issue?

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Have you traced each vacuum line per the diagram above the driver headlight? If missing, it's posted here.

The lower harness goes to starter, alternator, and oil pressure / oil level sensors. Nothing that affects ignition/EZL, although you could verify there is 14.0V (±0.5v) at the battery with the engine running.
 
Have you traced each vacuum line per the diagram above the driver headlight? If missing, it's posted here.

The lower harness goes to starter, alternator, and oil pressure / oil level sensors. Nothing that affects ignition/EZL, although you could verify there is 14.0V (±0.5v) at the battery with the engine running.
I have done a quick 5 min check to make sure everything is plugged in but I haven’t meticulously traced every vacuum line. Will do soon.

Worth mentioning my smog pump sounds like a Harley Davidson. I unplugged the clutch. Probably not related?

Also I removed and rebuilt the lower wiring harness today. Tedious but went really well.. Used a wiring harness from an elevator travel cable, should be damn good wire.

Will re-install tomorrow night and play with vacuum.

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Nice work on the harness repair! The new wire should have a high temperature rating... sitting below the exhaust manifold and next to the block, it gets a ton of heat. Using external heat sheathing over parts of the harness can also help.

The smog pump doesn't affect engine operation, you can disconnect it for now, it will just trigger a CEL (assuming your car has a CEL). It may also trigger a code on the LH module but you can ignore it.
 
Spent several more hours today checking/replacing other items.

Still same exact same poor running behavior (no codes however) as shown in my previous videos:



Idle hunts up and down and eventually dies. DOESN'T die or hunt as bad with vacuum line removed from EZL. No idea why.



To recap here is everything I have done to date:
  • New correct spark plugs, removed resistor plugs
  • New plug wires
  • new distributor caps, rotors
  • new fuel filter
  • new fuel pressure regulator
  • new crank position sensor
  • new camshaft position sensor
  • Swapped in a spare EZL, LH Module, base module, and T/LLR
  • Installed rebuilt throttle actuator, new rubber air boot
  • Checked all visible vacuum hoses in the engine bay, traced them to the best of my ability including back to transmission, everything seems correct and intact although some go under the intake
  • rebuilt lower wiring harness, upper harness already replaced
  • all fuses cleaned and replaced

When I changed the spark plugs tonight, all eight of the plugs looked even and dry (slightly rich) . No evidence of a dead cylinder, wet oil etc.

Car has 130K miles.


So where does this leave me? By process of elimination what else can there be?

Only other items that come to my mind:
  • Mass airflow sensor? I'm not getting a code or anything
  • Stuck cam magnet adjusters? Does this ever happen?
  • Some vacuum leak somewhere in the intake I can't find, possibly at the injectors or intake manifold seals?- I don't own a smoke machine but I wish i had one
  • Need to check that both magnets are installed on the flywheel- car had a transmission installed recently by previous owner. Could flywheel be misaligned?
  • some kind of clogged or failure of an emission component? Clogged cat? What is this MOT thing near the EZL?
  • O2 sensor- again no code
  • Did the timing chain jump? Would it even still run if it jumped a tooth?
  • some issue with a knock sensor or other sensor somewhere on the block

There really can't be that much else right?

I'm pretty sure a this point I'm going to have to buy an SDS. How detailed of information will this SDS system give me? Will it tell me if I have a vacuum leak?

Is it sophisticated enough to give me a clear idea of what the fuck is going on?
 
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So where does this leave me? By process of elimination what else can there be?
Ooof. You are running low on items to check/replace. Live data from SDS / HHT-Win would be helpful at this point, to try and spot anything out of the ordinary.


  • Mass airflow sensor? I'm not getting a code or anything
As a test, disconnect the MAF and see if there's any difference. If it runs better (or normally) with the MAF disconnected, this would be highly suspect. Live data would prove the MAF good or bad.


  • Stuck cam magnet adjusters? Does this ever happen?
Never heard of this happening, but if the magnet is not operating, midrange power is really poor. If stuck advanced (which I've never heard of), the idle is really rough. You can test by manually applying +12v to each cam magnet, the idle will get rough when either one is energized at idle. (HHT-Win has an activation test for this.)



  • Some vacuum leak somewhere in the intake I can't find, possibly at the injectors or intake manifold seals?- I don't own a smoke machine but I wish i had one
Since you are running low on options, a smoke test is something that would be worth trying. You can build your own smoke machine, or buy a cheap home-made one on eBay. Compressed air is required.



  • Need to check that both magnets are installed on the flywheel- car had a transmission installed recently by previous owner. Could flywheel be misaligned?
The flywheel can only be installed one way, 1 mounting bolt is offset so it will be forced to the correct position. If one magnet is missing, you'd likely have a recurring fault code 18 on the EZL, along with intermittent hard starting. I had 1 magnet missing on a car years ago, took me forever to figure out what was wrong.



  • some kind of clogged or failure of an emission component? Clogged cat?
Severely clogged cats will cause power loss under load. Can you drive the car with the vac hose disconnected from the EZL? Alternately, disconnect the exhaust crossover pipe to bypass the cats and see if there's any change.



  • What is this MOT thing near the EZL?
That's the carbon canister purge valve. The MOT valve will cycle to ingest fuel vapors from the canister. You can disconnect / block the hoses at the valve for test purposes. If the valve is stuck open, it would cause a pretty significant intake vacuum leak. Also check the 8mm black pipe from the intake manifold (connects to PVC hoses near cylinders 5/6) to the valve and make sure it's not broken anywhere.



  • O2 sensor- again no code
Live data would help here, but the O2 sensor is only in the loop after warmup. I doubt this is related, but a new sensor wouldn't hurt.



  • Did the timing chain jump? Would it even still run if it jumped a tooth?
Also unlikely, but worth checking. The engine can run amazingly well with one cam 1 tooth off. I'd be really surprised if this was the issue, but with any M119 purchase, you have to pull the valve covers anyway to check for broken chain rails, and while it's open you can check cam timing.



  • some issue with a knock sensor or other sensor somewhere on the block
Also unlikely... knock sensor shouldn't cause this. Guess you could try disconnecting it (3-pin connector at EZL) and see if there's any change?



There really can't be that much else right?

I'm pretty sure a this point I'm going to have to buy an SDS. How detailed of information will this SDS system give me? Will it tell me if I have a vacuum leak?
SDS provides a lot of data, but you need to know what you are looking at. The video below shows most of what's available. It won't tell you specifically if there is a vacuum leak though.



Is it sophisticated enough to give me a clear idea of what the fuck is going on?
Maybe, maybe not... depends what the root cause is. For example it can't tell you if there's a fuel pressure problem, or clogged cats.


 
I called up the previous owner to try to get some more info on the history of this car.

He says the car started stalling and acting up right after the transmission was removed and replaced. He removed the trans himself and had a shop install the rebuild. Says stalling issue started directly after and got worse over time.


After that he brought it to a euro shop who diagnosed a bad upper wiring harness. They removed and replaced it. Car never ran correctly after the harness was replaced.

So, I’m somewhat suspicious of the wiring harness and how it is hooked up. Maybe something isn’t hooked up right?
 
That is helpful information. if the stalling began immediately after the transmission swap, that is very suspicious... although I am having a hard time figuring out how a trans swap could affect anything that would cause stalling. Normally the exhaust has to come out for this, btw. Hmmm.

The upper harness is all plug+play, there's almost no way it can't be installed correctly. However, for grins you could verify it's the correct part number (check the tag), and remove / reconnect each connection to verify they are all clean and tight.

Another test for clogged catalysts is at this link, note that you need to drive the car at high revs / high load for this test.
 
That is helpful information. if the stalling began immediately after the transmission swap, that is very suspicious... although I am having a hard time figuring out how a trans swap could affect anything that would cause stalling. Normally the exhaust has to come out for this, btw. Hmmm.

The upper harness is all plug+play, there's almost no way it can't be installed correctly. However, for grins you could verify it's the correct part number (check the tag), and remove / reconnect each connection to verify they are all clean and tight.

Another test for clogged catalysts is at this link, note that you need to drive the car at high revs / high load for this test

Have you checked to make sure all of the spark plug wires are routed to the correct plugs?
Yes but I will check the plug order again tonight
 
As said, your best bet is to get the car on an SDS system to see the live data. And to ensure that there are no vacuum leaks with a smoke test. All of that will tell you everything you need to know. Hopefully you have a shop near you that has an SDS or HHT to pull both codes and live data. You are resetting codes between runs, correct?
 
As said, your best bet is to get the car on an SDS system to see the live data. And to ensure that there are no vacuum leaks with a smoke test. All of that will tell you everything you need to know. Hopefully you have a shop near you that has an SDS or HHT to pull both codes and live data. You are resetting codes between runs, correct?
Yes I have been resetting codes but it is a painful process with a blink tester. Looks like I can buy an sds for $500 on eBay. Honestly I would probably spend that much just taking it to a shop.

I will ask around some of my car friends see if anybody has one I could use
 
Ideally you'd find someone locally with SDS than you could connect to your car.

Before buying anything, do serious homework! The C3 is nearly obsolete now and some would not communicate with the EZL. The C4 seems to not have that issue (that I've heard of), but many sellers are including a cheap cable missing half of the wires insides, so it won't communicate with several modules. @Jlaa posted details of his adventure with getting a fully-functioning SDS C4 with good cable. And unless the seller will swear that their software definitely includes HHT-Win support, don't buy it.

:matrix:
 
GSXR mentioned the distributor insulators earlier, but never saw confirmation that they were replaced in the thread.
 
GSXR mentioned the distributor insulators earlier, but never saw confirmation that they were replaced in the thread.
no they were not replaced but they look fine. The purpose is to prevent corrosion/moisture correct? Caps and rotors are brand new, haven't had a chance to corrode yet.

Also tried running car with MAF unplugged. Did not help. O2 sensor seated properly at plug. MOT evap switch holding vacuum and so are the lines.
Checked wiring to each injector, connected & numbered properly. Wiring harness part number seems correct per google.

I ordered a cheap smoke tester on amazon, should be here tomorrow. Fingers crossed I find a smoking gun...

If smoke doesn't reveal anything I may also pressurize the cooling system and put my endoscope camera down in the spark plug hole..just to verify I don't have any coolant leaking through the headgasket. May as well do a compression test while i'm at it....
 
no they were not replaced but they look fine. The purpose is to prevent corrosion/moisture correct? Caps and rotors are brand new, haven't had a chance to corrode yet.
They also prevent the spark from grounding to the block. The insulators can be dry and have hairline cracks that allow grounding. As much trouble as you have had chasing this issue, I would replace them as well. Always nice to have spares at least.
 
Yet again I’m striking out. I performed a smoke test and only found one very minor leak at this component.


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I don’t think it’s enough to cause any running issue.

Manifold is tight and holds high pressure. Enough to blow the plastic bag off the intake.

Starting to think there may be something seriously wrong with this engine….
 
What you circled is EGR valve, also check the brake booster for vacuum leaks. There is a seal between brake booster and the brake master cylinder that sometimes leaks.

I have one question and I'm sorry if someone already mentioned this, but if I understand correctly engine is running with the EZL vacuum unplugged, but did you try blocking the vacum line with your finger instead of plugging it back to the ezl? I'm curious what will happen if the engine will still run fine or die immediately.

I don't really have any other idea that wasn't already mentioned.
 
You can verify if the EGR valve is working normally by applying vacuum to it manually with the engine idling. When the EGR valve opens, the idle should get rough... close the valve and the idle should smooth out.

@jhodg5ck ? Any ideas what would cause the engine to only run decently if the vacuum line is disconnected from the EZL?

:blink:
 
I suspect that if whatever vacuum line is unplugged this car would ran fine. I would also check the crank case ventilation. Maybe it's clogged? Cleaning EGR pipe also wouldn't hurt.

One more thing that I would check is, if there is a gap on throttle body with ignition switched on. Maybe the plate is full closed and there is no air getting in to the engine and when the vacum line is unplugged engine is running just fine.
 
I really appreciate everyone's great suggestions here. On a positive note I don't have any broken chain guides and chain seems pretty tight.

I don't have a socket big enough to get on the main crank and rotate the engine/line up the cam holes but I can get one this weekend. Since the guides are fully intact I think it is unlikely the chain has jumped. Also accessing the bolt in the corner of the passenger side valve cover is a disgrace..

Engine is a little cruddy inside but everything looks to be in decent shape.

I will proceed with compression test and borescope this weekend. I'm a little suspicious of the head gasket, the upper radiator "elbow fitting" was leaking when I got it, could have experienced an overheating event? I've done headgaskets on the m102 and m103 but never had to on a V8...

Also I wonder if they dropped the exhaust when doing the trans swap and shattered the catalytic converter 🤔

Also yes Kridre the ETA actuates to a small gap when the ignition is switched on. And the brake booster is holding vac. Thank you for those suggestions.



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IMG_9039.jpegIMG_9041.jpegIMG_9034.jpegIMG_9042.jpeg
 
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This probably won't make you feel better, but I just spent days chasing a frustrating problem, throwing part after part at it... and I had live data available. I finally cured the main issue but still have a mystery to solve. More here.

:scratchchin:
 
So today I did the following:

  • Disconnected the crossover exhaust pipe to rule out clogged catalytic converter- no change.. still stalls and runs like shit
  • Checked alignment of cams- ALL 4 cams could be pinned simultaneously around 47 degrees. Guides are all intact.
  • ran compression test, engine cold, weakish battery:
    • #1: 220 PSI
    • #2: 220 PSI
    • #3: 210 PSI
    • #4: 210 PSI
    • #5 205 PSI
    • #6 210 PSI
    • #7 210 PSI
    • #8 210 PSI
  • Used a borescope down the cylinders- they looked very very clean, no scoring on the walls



I was hoping to test the headgasket by pressurizing the coolant system. Got my pump out and started pumping- discovered that my radiator is split along the upper seam- just below the upper hose outlet. Add another $300 to the tab- great!!

I don't know what else to do anymore. Could the previously used resistor spark plugs damaged the coils? Those have not been replaced but each plug seems to be getting a spark.

I suppose checking the fuel pressure would be a good idea at this point?


Even if I buy an SDS- What components are even left to replace? Coils, MAF sensor? No codes for either

Time after time everything checks out but it will not run right. This car is starting to piss me off royally.
 
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Radiator... awww... bummer! New OE is the best bet, $375 for 124-500-14-02 from Naperville, free ship with code 500EPROMO. The only other option is Nissens which I wouldn't recommend.

Resistor plugs will not damage the coils. Definitely check fuel pressure, another easy item to rule out, and there will never be a code for this because there's no sensor on the fuel rail.

On the bright side, you have ruled out a lot of stuff. Exhaust is not clogged, compression normal, valve timing normal. It's back to the electronic engine management stuff. If there is no change with the MAF disconnected, a different MAF likely won't help.

I'd focus on what changed right before the running problems first appeared.

Also - can you drive the car? Or has all this testing been with the car parked in the garage / driveway?
 
A week or two ago I drove the car about a mile with the EZL vacuum line unplugged..

It didn’t stall but it didn’t have much power either. Felt a tad slower than my 300e. Not sure of this was a function of not having advance or some other issue.

Since then it has been in the driveway for all the diag.
 
The 400E may feel similar, or slower, than the M104 300E due to the super-tall gearing. 400E has 2.24, 300E has 2.65 gears. Not having correct timing advance won't help though.

:klink3:
 
I suspect that if whatever vacuum line is unplugged this car would ran fine. I would also check the crank case ventilation. Maybe it's clogged? Cleaning EGR pipe also wouldn't hurt.

One more thing that I would check is, if there is a gap on throttle body with ignition switched on. Maybe the plate is full closed and there is no air getting in to the engine and when the vacum line is unplugged engine is running just fine.
how big should this gap be on TBA? Mine is only a couple milimeters when key is switched on.
 
What you circled is EGR valve, also check the brake booster for vacuum leaks. There is a seal between brake booster and the brake master cylinder that sometimes leaks.

I have one question and I'm sorry if someone already mentioned this, but if I understand correctly engine is running with the EZL vacuum unplugged, but did you try blocking the vacum line with your finger instead of plugging it back to the ezl? I'm curious what will happen if the engine will still run fine or die immediately.

I don't really have any other idea that wasn't already mentioned.
I tried this, blocked the EZL vacuum line with my finger. The engine continues running. The engine stalling is a direct function of me applying vacuum to the nipple on the ezl. Disconnecting other vacuum lines does not help, only the EZL line.. When advance is applied, engine dies.

Also checked fuel pressure at idle. Seems about normal I think?

IMG_9067.jpeg
 
You tried another ezl?
Yes, I have tried a spare junkyard EZL. Part number is 015 545 60 32 which does not match the original part number but it is from a v8 and behaves identically when plugged in.

I’m going to test my cam adjuster magnets tonight, maybe one is stuck in the advanced mode? Adding more advance at EZL then stalls engine? I don’t know
 
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Yes, I have tried a spare junkyard EZL. Part number is 015 545 60 32 which does not match the original part number but it is from a v8 and behaves identically when plugged in.

I’m going to test my cam adjuster magnets tonight, maybe one is stuck in the advanced mode? Adding more advance at EZL then stalls engine? I don’t know
plausible!@
 
The full test with the cam advance is to energize them (one at a time) with the engine idling. The idle should get rough with the advance mechanism energized.

The solenoid/magnet just pulls an armature forward, but nothing happens without oil pressure from the intake cam, the oil pressure is what makes the mechanism advance 20°.

Don't suppose you have access to a spare EZL of the correct p/n, huh?
 
HeadThe full test with the cam advance is to energize them (one at a time) with the engine idling. The idle should get rough with the advance mechanism energized.

The solenoid/magnet just pulls an armature forward, but nothing happens without oil pressure from the intake cam, the oil pressure is what makes the mechanism advance 20°.

Don't suppose you have access to a spare EZL of the correct p/n, huh?
I tried this, fired it up and activated each magnet both side. Engine responds and gets rough(er).

I ordered an EZL on eBay weeks ago that was the correct number but USPS lost the package..

:hammerhead:

The fact that both EZL behave identically makes me think it’s not the issue.

Even though the throttle body seller had a perfect 100% rating on eBay and swears it was tested, I’m a little suspect. From what I read a bad micro switch or potentiometer could send wrong timing signals to EZL. I have run the car with it unplugged and it still dies + EZL vac behavior

Could bad coils be causing this? I think unlikely but it is another big question mark.

Ultimately, I’ve spent way way more money throwing parts at this thing than I expected.

It’s a hard decision whether I continue the parts cannon or spend the $500 on an sds. I’m not having much luck finding someone locally who will let me borrow an sds, although I haven’t checked at the dealer or expensive repair shops. I haven’t taken a car to a shop in over 5 years I’ve always been able to figure out everything myself until now…

This whole ordeal makes me really appreciate KJET… mechanical injection really is superior (sorry)

Other things I’m thinking about is whether they installed the flywheel spacers correctly. I think it goes spacer/flywheel/spacer. However if it was having an issue reading magnet I should get a crank pos sensor code.

Aside from upper and lower harness. Is there any other bio wiring that could be causing this? I’m tempted to pull the whole harness out and just reinstall it, check all grounds etc.
 
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Someone I spoke with said to check the CARB module near the gas pedal and turn the knob? I assume it stands for “California air resources board”. I don’t have a cali car or a check engine light. What is this thing they are referring to ?

IMG_9099.png
 
I know I’m late to this diagnostic party and have read all that has been tried on this car. I will say one thing. You have a lot of patience and perseverance. I think the key to your issues lie with the ignition system. That video clip of you starting the car helped me identify another clue. When the engine was cranking and started it sounded to me like there was a lot of ignition advance the way the engine kicked back on the starter Bendix. The other clue is the vacuum line to the EZL. The third clue is things did not start happening until the transmission was removed and installed. I’m curious of a couple things. Actually a few things. One have you checked the grounds on the ignition system and the main ground to the engine? With a meter if you place one lead on the body of the car (I would the grounding lugs found around the right strut area) and the other on the engine block or a bracket attached to the block. When running you should see less then .1 volt. Doing the same test while someone is cranking the engine you should have no more then .3 volts.
Next I would want to see how strong the crank sensor signal is while cranking. Unplug the connector on the EZL and put your 2 leads on the sensor wire.set your meter on A/C volts. You should have more than 1 volt cranking. The next step will require an oscilloscope but what we would be looking for is the cam crank correlation by placing one channel on the cam sensor and one on the crank. Scopes are really cheap like less than $100 and can provide an even more accurate account of what EZL is seeing over the SDS. If you want to go that route after the first 2 have failed I can help by doing a test on my M119 Of a good waveform to compare to yours.
 
Someone I spoke with said to check the CARB module near the gas pedal and turn the knob? I assume it stands for “California air resources board”. I don’t have a cali car or a check engine light. What is this thing they are referring to ?
The "CARB" module is the DM (Diagnostic Module), and this is only used on cars with a Check Engine Light (CEL). Some 1992-93 400E's don't have this. Cars with a CEL+DM will have a yellow emissions decal over the passenger headlights, cars without CEL+DM will have a black emissions decal.

All this module does is monitor data via CAN from the other modules, and when it sees anything that could affect emissions, it stores a code and turns on the CEL. It does NOTHING else and can be disconnected / unplugged if present. It is located below the passenger footwell on the 400E/500E, it is not anywhere near the gas pedal.

:cel:
 
I know I’m late to this diagnostic party and have read all that has been tried on this car. I will say one thing. You have a lot of patience and perseverance. I think the key to your issues lie with the ignition system. That video clip of you starting the car helped me identify another clue. When the engine was cranking and started it sounded to me like there was a lot of ignition advance the way the engine kicked back on the starter Bendix. The other clue is the vacuum line to the EZL. The third clue is things did not start happening until the transmission was removed and installed. I’m curious of a couple things. Actually a few things. One have you checked the grounds on the ignition system and the main ground to the engine? With a meter if you place one lead on the body of the car (I would the grounding lugs found around the right strut area) and the other on the engine block or a bracket attached to the block. When running you should see less then .1 volt. Doing the same test while someone is cranking the engine you should have no more then .3 volts.
Next I would want to see how strong the crank sensor signal is while cranking. Unplug the connector on the EZL and put your 2 leads on the sensor wire.set your meter on A/C volts. You should have more than 1 volt cranking. The next step will require an oscilloscope but what we would be looking for is the cam crank correlation by placing one channel on the cam sensor and one on the crank. Scopes are really cheap like less than $100 and can provide an even more accurate account of what EZL is seeing over the SDS. If you want to go that route after the first 2 have failed I can help by doing a test on my M119 Of a good waveform to compare to yours.
Thank you for the message, I agree with everything you said, especially the kickback when cranking. In fact, a couple of times the engine has stalled and kicked back and smoke poofed out the MAF sensor/intake. not sure what that means.

I have not checked any grounds but I will try that.

Also I have a digital timing light, maybe I need to clip it on and see what it is running at.
 
Thank you for the message, I agree with everything you said, especially the kickback when cranking. In fact, a couple of times the engine has stalled and kicked back and smoke poofed out the MAF sensor/intake. not sure what that means.
That is WEIRD. And definitely not normal.

Some dumb things to check... have you confirmed the engine serial number matches the data card, verifying it's the original engine?

I'm wondering if something is up with the crank sensor / crank magnets, but I can't imagine how a shop could screw this up during a transmission R&R. Did they replace the rear main seal while the transmission was out, or do any other work besides a simple transmission swap?

:klink:
 
I’m thinking they damaged the flywheel when they either removed the transmission or when they replaced the crank seal which is normal when pulling a transmission. Also I think if you looked at the cranking waveform with a scope of the crank sensor it would reveal an issue.
 
I’m thinking they damaged the flywheel when they either removed the transmission or when they replaced the crank seal which is normal when pulling a transmission. Also I think if you looked at the cranking waveform with a scope of the crank sensor it would reveal an issue.
I think this is very plausible. It seems like the main way to damage it would be to warp & bend the flywheel (not remove all the bolts on torque converter) and drop trans.

Or, screw up the magnets somehow. Or the spacers.

I will take my endoscope camera and poke around.

Again, I bought this car from a 20 year old kid who didn’t know his ass from a hole in the ground. He says he dropped the trans himself and brought it to a shop in install.

There is no fucking telling what he broke, I have very low confidence.
 
Photos at the link below may be helpful.

Note the center plate is keyed to the crankshaft, but if by some crazy happenstance, the outer ring was relocated relative to the center plate... the magnets would be in the wrong location. (Edit: The outer ring is normally riveted on to the center plate and non-adjustable, but you never know what MuppetMechanics™ are capable of.)

 
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After viewing the pictures from gsxr’s file it looks like someone could reposition the flywheel retarded one position and possibly install the bolts and just ”send it” with many ugga dugga’s of the impact. This would make sense why EXL only works with the vacuum hose is disconnected because without a map signal it probably resorts to a retarded base map to protect the engine. Timing is so far off ignition is probably happening but too far advanced to run.
 
So I connected my digital timing light.

Put a sticker at "0" TDC mark

IMG_9103.jpeg



IMG_9104.jpeg



I'm clamped to the spark plug wire for CYL 1 (passenger side, cyl closest to radiator)

I adjust my degrees buttons until the pointer and sticker line up with the strobe....and I get 62 degrees advance (at idle, EZL unplugged)???

Am I reading this correctly? Surely not? (but I think I am).

I'm not sure what the idle timing is supposed to be on an m119 but it sure as hell isn't 62 BTDC. I think its around 10 degrees on my m117?


IMG_9106.jpeg
 
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