Engine oil recommendations

[R129 UK]

I recently took my 500E for its annual oil change and check-over by my favorite shop. Now that I'm only averaging about 500 miles per year, the current cost of Red Line, and because my usual source of Red Line (Amazon) only had it in 55 gallon drums (at $2,600), I asked the shop to use the closest they had to Red Line. Preferably, 10w40 and full synthetic. So, while I was there, they called around and got Red Line at $65 / gallon. They didn't mark it up, which was nice. Their view was that, overall, it's a small extra expense, and they know this is my "special car", so I should keep giving it the good stuff. Still, for next year, I think I'll do more research on this thread before oil change time and have my oil ready.

With an average of 500 miles per annum, I’m fairly sure you could extend the oil change to a longer change frequency. That’s what I plan to do with my R129 which I used Red Line in for the first time last summer. I’m only doing maybe 1000 miles or so myself each year.

 

[Melville]

With an average of 500 miles per annum, I’m fairly sure you could extend the oil change to a longer change frequency. That’s what I plan to do with my R129 which I used Red Line in for the first time last summer. I’m only doing maybe 1000 miles or so myself each year.

That's good advice. How long do you think I could go? I talked to my shop about it a couple of years ago, and they said that it would probably be fine to go longer, but why risk it. They also pointed out that filters also degrade over time. But it has felt like overkill.

 

[R129 UK]

Change interval (miles) depends on the application and useage. For normal street use with minimal idling/city service, probably 5-7kmi? Oil analysis would be nice to confirm the TBN isn't getting too low, especially if no oil is added/consumed (added oil boosts TBN). WIth lots of highway miles you might get 10kmi (with analysis to confirm).

I've never changed oil based on time alone, but most of my cars that are not in storage end up getting the oil changed between 1-3 years, generally at 5kmi, some pushed to 10k. Scroll up and read post #933 above for more info.

For RedLine, I personally change my oil at ~5,000 miles; it is easily safe to go up to 7,500 and even 10,000 miles (I do not recommend 10K, but I know some folks do take it that long).

For the DELO 400 and Brad Penn oils, which are both "dino" (don't let Brad Penn's marketing of it as a "partial synthetic" fool you -- it is DINO OIL) -- I go 3,000 miles.

Always a filter change with every oil change. Hengst filters are highly recommended (made in Germany), though Mann, Mahle, MB and others are just fine.

I get an oil analysis with TBN calculation with every oil change.

@Melville see here, the oracles have spoken!!

Well worth changing the filter more frequently as they cost very little in comparison to oil.

 

[gsxr]

I'd wait for at least ~2500 miles even if that means 5 years. You could change the filter element more often if desired (no need to drain the oil to do this).

If you lived near me and changed Red Line every 500 miles, I'd be asking for the used oil to run in my beater 034's!

 

[Melville]

Thanks every, this is great advice!

 

[gerryvz]

I don't see any benefit whatsoever to changing oil annually, even with zero miles on it. I know the owners manuals say to change at X miles or annually, whichever comes first. That's BS.

The car needs to be driven, and a couple thousand miles a year is a good idea to keep everything lubricated and running properly. If you went 1,000-2,000 miles a year, then I'd change RedLine probably at 5K miles, so that would be after 3-4 years. With filter.

I've gone 3-5 years before on oil changes in my E500 with zero issues, during periods when I haven't driven it much. Heck, my 560SEC sat for 2.5 years with zero miles before I changed the oil, and there were no issues. This was with Brad Penn dino oil, and I change that every 3K. The past few years I've driven my E500 more, and so it's probably going 18-24 months now between oil changes (5K miles). I like to take it to Dulles Airport for business trips, which is a 150-mile round trip from my house. That exercises it very nicely.

 

[yao500e]

I recently took my 500E for its annual oil change and check-over by my favorite shop. Now that I'm only averaging about 500 miles per year, the current cost of Red Line, and because my usual source of Red Line (Amazon) only had it in 55 gallon drums (at $2,600), I asked the shop to use the closest they had to Red Line. Preferably, 10w40 and full synthetic. So, while I was there, they called around and got Red Line at $65 / gallon. They didn't mark it up, which was nice. Their view was that, overall, it's a small extra expense, and they know this is my "special car", so I should keep giving it the good stuff. Still, for next year, I think I'll do more research on this thread before oil change time and have my oil ready.

I drive the E500 2000 miles or so a year. C36 i drive about 6000+ miles a year.
I use either pennzoil ultra platinum or Shell Ultra 0w40 or 5w40. Both rated excellent oils.

 

[yao500e]

I don't see any benefit whatsoever to changing oil annually, even with zero miles on it. I know the owners manuals say to change at X miles or annually, whichever comes first. That's BS.

The car needs to be driven, and a couple thousand miles a year is a good idea to keep everything lubricated and running properly. If you went 1,000-2,000 miles a year, then I'd change RedLine probably at 5K miles, so that would be after 3-4 years. With filter.

I've gone 3-5 years before on oil changes in my E500 with zero issues, during periods when I haven't driven it much. Heck, my 560SEC sat for 2.5 years with zero miles before I changed the oil, and there were no issues. This was with Brad Penn dino oil, and I change that every 3K. The past few years I've driven my E500 more, and so it's probably going 18-24 months now between oil changes (5K miles). I like to take it to Dulles Airport for business trips, which is a 150-mile round trip from my house. That exercises it very nicely.

I change oil 3,000 miles. and its good to know that low mileage driven car doesnt need to change oil regardless of timeframe.

 

[Melville]

Thanks again, everyone, for the great advice. I confess I had read through most of this thread before, but so much of the information was beyond my understanding that I thought I should just stick with the x miles or 1 year, whichever comes first. I'll adjust oil change frequency for my 500E going forward--and I will drive it more. I'm leaving the time now when my kids were so small that they'd mess up the interior of any car they were in. In fact, they've been pressing me to drive it more, with the very logical questions - "If you have a nice car, what's the point of just keeping it in the garage? Aren't you supposed to drive cars?"

 

[Oldcar]

Folks,

I have been using Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic oil 10W-30 since I bought my car.

It is time for an oil and pan gasket change - 1993 w/99545 miles - and would like to know if there is a better or improved oil to use since we will be moving to Miami in October and the weather will be much hotter in the summer.

Kind regards,

Orazio

I've been using walmart semi synthetic 10/40. Car has 200k miles on m119 engine with oil leaks don't want more leaks


If you don't have leaks maybe keep doing what your doing?

 

[wbjrace]

I don't see any benefit whatsoever to changing oil annually, even with zero miles on it. I know the owners manuals say to change at X miles or annually, whichever comes first. That's BS.

The car needs to be driven, and a couple thousand miles a year is a good idea to keep everything lubricated and running properly. If you went 1,000-2,000 miles a year, then I'd change RedLine probably at 5K miles, so that would be after 3-4 years. With filter.

I've gone 3-5 years before on oil changes in my E500 with zero issues, during periods when I haven't driven it much. Heck, my 560SEC sat for 2.5 years with zero miles before I changed the oil, and there were no issues. This was with Brad Penn dino oil, and I change that every 3K. The past few years I've driven my E500 more, and so it's probably going 18-24 months now between oil changes (5K miles). I like to take it to Dulles Airport for business trips, which is a 150-mile round trip from my house. That exercises it very nicely.

You recommended in one post that Delvac 1300 15-40 was a good oil;. At Wamart here they only have it in semi-synthetic. Is it also available in full synthetic? I was going to use it in my 500E instead of Mobil One 15-50. I might consider using it in my 1993 350GD, i have been using Castrol 15-40 GTX Diesel. Any comment?

 

[French02chris]

So now that winter is gone in Maine...
I would like to report that the 15w40 shell rotella T4 did really well in my 400E.. I had a couple of cold starts in the negative temperatures as well as most cold start between 5-15 degrees (Fahrenheit)
The only thing that I did, was to make sure to warm up the car enough before driving it.
Ps : car has 382k miles on it.
So I am definitely keeping that oil grade all year long, like I did when I was living in North Florida.

 

[gerryvz]

That's a good grade of oil. What I've always used in my M104s in both Houston and Maryland.

 

[R129 UK]

The only thing that I did, was to make sure to warm up the car enough before driving it.

Do you have any justification for doing this?

I was always told that the best way to warm up an engine to operating temperature was to drive the car.

It could be that the advice I read was from old timers where engines would tend to coke up?

 

[gsxr]

I was always told that the best way to warm up an engine to operating temperature was to drive the car.

It could be that the advice I read was from old timers where engines would tend to coke up?

I agree with the above... let the idle stabilize (usually <30 seconds) then drive gently (less than ~1/2 throttle, stay below ~3000rpm) until the temp gauge is at least up to ~60C.

Letting the engine idle for 5, 10, 15 minutes or longer after a cold start, generally isn't a good thing.

In extreme cold (say, below zero °F) it might be a good ideal to idle for a few minutes while scraping ice/snow off the car before driving. I'd assume this would be an extreme rare situation for most 124 owners.

 

[gerryvz]

I am happy in very cold weather to start the engine up, and sit for 30-60 seconds before then setting off. This gives the engine time to build up oil pressure (happens quickly) and then to slosh oil in the top end where it needs to be. The real warmup does happen whilst driving the car, and I agree 100% that long "idle times" in the driveway or garage are not really a good thing.

Better to let it sit for a minute or so, then get going.

In warmer weather, this is not so much of an issue. That said, I would ALWAYS wait until coolant and perhaps oil come up to a proper temperature before hard acceleration.

 

[rayhennig]

let the idle stabilize (usually <30 seconds) then drive gently (less than ~1/2 throttle, stay below ~3000rpm)

Tricky. My idle settles within a second or two. But when I move off, the first gear change is set to happen at 3500 rpm. I does this to heat up the cat.

Always done in for the past 27 years.

RayH

 

[French02chris]

During spring, summer and fall.. I just start the engine, wait for idle to settle and go..
However this winter, during cold/freezing temperatures (anything between - 5 to 30),i HAD to let the engine warm up for at least 5-10 minutes.. The reason is that a couple of times (under 5 degrees Fahrenheit) , I just waited for the idle to settle but the engine was acting like it was misfiring if I did not let it get warm enough (even when keeping the rpm low...).. By waiting 5-10 minutes, I had zero issues.. It might have been different if the oil was other than 15-40..
I don't know about your guys cars, but it works for my 382k miles car.. Lol

 

[gsxr]

Uh-oh?

TLDR: Don't use diesel oil for direct-injection gas engines, or to protect valvetrains with either flat-tappet cams, or sensitive engines like the M117.

 

[gerryvz]

Uh-oh?

TLDR: Don't use diesel oil for direct-injection gas engines, or to protect valvetrains with either flat-tappet cams, or sensitive engines like the M117.

I saw that video a few days ago.

I think the main point was not to use Diesel oils for DIRECT-INJECTED engines.

I don't have an issue with diesel oils for flat-tappet valvetrains, as long as the ZDDP levels aren't too high, or too low. That said, I would NEVER run a Diesel-rated oil in my M117. Only Brad Penn.

I've run Diesel oil in all of my M104s for as long as I have run M104s, probably 20 years now. Never a problem. You can see the valvetrains from my G320 and also the E320 rebuild threads - all are exceedingly clean, thanks to the detergents in the Diesel-rated DELO 400 oil used.

 

[rayhennig]

I've run Diesel oil in all of my M104s for as long as I have run M104s, probably 20 years now. Never a problem.

Yep, not every time but certainly the majority of fills have been with Diesel oil. Over 1/2 million Kms and still runs.

R

 

[gsxr]

I think the main point was not to use Diesel oils for DIRECT-INJECTED engines.

Correct. They did NOT do a good job clarifying this.

Secondary point is, ZDDP alone is not the holy grail for flat-tappet or other valvetrain protection. High levels of other additives can negate the soothing effect of the ZDDP, as shown in their flat-tappet cam wear test data. I agree 100% with their mantra about application dictates chemistry.

 

[lowman]

So im not the only one watching The Motor Oil Geek on the tube.I feel better now

 

[Oldcar]

I change oil 3,000 miles. and its good to know that low mileage driven car doesnt need to change oil regardless of timeframe.

Maybe change once or twice per year castrol high miles 10/40 if your persnickedy assuming low annual milage

Full synthetic if no leaks

 

[rayhennig]

Maybe change once or twice per year

We reckon on 10,000 Mk - 6000 miles - usually once a year and always fully synthetic 5W30 bought in bulk, last time Fuchs. I've run out of 5W40 MB fully synthetic so it'll be 5W30 next time. And that stuff does for 190D 2.5, 300CE-24, E280, Kia, Opel and others that my sone helps his mates with.

My 300CE has had 5W40/30 since I bought it from MB in 1998 - they used 5W40 too until I started servicing myself due to fiscal hardship.

RayH

 

[Oldcar]

We reckon on 10,000 Mk - 6000 miles - usually once a year and always fully synthetic 5W30 bought in bulk, last time Fuchs. I've run out of 5W40 MB fully synthetic so it'll be 5W30 next time. And that stuff does for 190D 2.5, 300CE-24, E280, Kia, Opel and others that my sone helps his mates with.

My 300CE has had 5W40/30 since I bought it from MB in 1998 - they used 5W40 too until I started servicing myself due to fiscal hardship.

RayH

Any before or after oil leaks ???

 

[rayhennig]

Any before or after oil leaks ???

Only one slight leak from the timing chain cover. I have the seal and will get around to it but it's no great priority. That's for the 300CE at 500K+ Kms. Don't know about the others.

R

 

[Oldcar]

That's where mine leaks did synthetic increase leak?

 

[rayhennig]

did synthetic increase leak?

No, it's been on 5W40/30 synthetic for 27 years so it seems unlikely.

R

 

[Oldcar]

I put full synthetic in another car once and a drip turned into a puddle...semi synthetic is as far as I have gone.

I like the idea of greater flow like 5/40
Does it feel any different driving on full synthetic?

 

[rayhennig]

Does it feel any different driving on full synthetic?

Not sure you're addressing that to me but I cannot answer as I've always used full synthetic.

I do convince my self, however, that things seem smoother after an oil change. Maybe placebo.

R

 

[Oldcar]

You are correct always seems smoother after drain and change

 

[mbzgurl]

My 500E has been sitting for 19 months covered but not garaged. So, what do I need to do before I start her up? Should I change the oil first? The temps are daytime 104⁰-108⁰/82⁰-89⁰ nights.

 

[R129 UK]

I would be checking essential fluid levels and condition e.g. coolant and oil before starting the engine.

Then service the car as you would normally if it needs to be driven somewhere.

 

[gsxr]

My 500E has been sitting for 19 months covered but not garaged. So, what do I need to do before I start her up? Should I change the oil first?

No need to change the oil. Make sure the battery is charged and fire it up! Ideally, let it idle a couple of minutes and then drive it... don't let it sit and idle for an extended period. Change the oil based on mileage, not time. The oil didn't go bad sitting for 19 months.

The temps are daytime 104⁰-108⁰/82⁰-89⁰ nights.

I hope those numbers are typos. Egads.

 

[Oldcar]

I would drive it on the freeway get it hot and change it...but like gsxr said maybe no need to change if it's full synth.

 

[BRABUS124]

Does anyone know about Castrol edge Supercar oil. My Original 124 BRABUS has an engine plate stating it must be Castrol RS 10W-60 oil. To day that name has changed to Castrol Edge Supercar oil same viscosity.
So would that oil be good for the M119?

 

[195910]

Does anyone know about Castrol edge Supercar oil. My Original 124 BRABUS has an engine plate stating it must be Castrol RS 10W-60 oil. To day that name has changed to Castrol Edge Supercar oil same viscosity.
So would that oil be good for the M119?

Is your car a confirmed 6.0L block ? AMG or Brabus 6.0L differ.

 

[BRABUS124]

Is your car a confirmed 6.0L block ? AMG or Brabus 6.0L differ.

My 500E is Standart and is the one I'm thinking off. But I have another 124 original brabus and yes I got theinvoice from mercedes as the costumer ordered the car through the, dealer and all are matching g numbers I've rebuild the intire engi e my self so yes I geeged it out all the way, and it's the real deak
L

 

[195910]

My 500E is Standart and is the one I'm thinking off. But I have another 124 original brabus and yes I got theinvoice from mercedes as the costumer ordered the car through the, dealer and all are matching g numbers I've rebuild the intire engi e my self so yes I geeged it out all the way, and it's the real deak
L

Excellent, if you have pictures of the block or even the pistons this can help us determine the oil type. Castrol RS no longer exists, better alternatives available.

 

[Seangbadee]

I saw that video a few days ago.

I think the main point was not to use Diesel oils for DIRECT-INJECTED engines.

I don't have an issue with diesel oils for flat-tappet valvetrains, as long as the ZDDP levels aren't too high, or too low. That said, I would NEVER run a Diesel-rated oil in my M117. Only Brad Penn.

I've run Diesel oil in all of my M104s for as long as I have run M104s, probably 20 years now. Never a problem. You can see the valvetrains from my G320 and also the E320 rebuild threads - all are exceedingly clean, thanks to the detergents in the Diesel-rated DELO 400 oil used.

I agree with Gerry, 100%. Look at my engine. I’ve been running Diesel oils, 15W40 for the last 4 years

 

[mikko.toivo]

In very high ambient temps, I'd use a top notch (Group IV/V base stock) synthetic just for the extra safety margin, especially if your engine temps are in the 100-110°C range. I wouldn't use anything thinner than 10W-40 in that heat. 10W-60 should be ok though. I have no idea if those oils are synthetic, or Group IV/V, so you'll need to do some research. All Red Line oils are Group IV/V and some Amsoil are as well (I'd use Amsoil AMO, ARO, or AME).

In the USA, most Mobil-1 formulas are now a cheaper Group III base stock, which is not a true synthetic. The Mobil-1 formulas sold in Europe are different and I'm not sure what those are. I would stick with 15W-50 for Mobil-1 and not attempt extended drains without oil analysis that included TBN levels.

I agree. It's always worth checking the viscosity index of oils. It indicates how well the oil performs at different temperatures. As customers, we're often given impressions that override the actual facts

 

[Fabricatore]

I agree. It's always worth checking the viscosity index of oils. It indicates how well the oil performs at different temperatures. As customers, we're often given impressions that override the actual facts

I don't see any benefit whatsoever to changing oil annually, even with zero miles on it. I know the owners manuals say to change at X miles or annually, whichever comes first. That's BS.

The car needs to be driven, and a couple thousand miles a year is a good idea to keep everything lubricated and running properly. If you went 1,000-2,000 miles a year, then I'd change RedLine probably at 5K miles, so that would be after 3-4 years. With filter.

I've gone 3-5 years before on oil changes in my E500 with zero issues, during periods when I haven't driven it much. Heck, my 560SEC sat for 2.5 years with zero miles before I changed the oil, and there were no issues. This was with Brad Penn dino oil, and I change that every 3K. The past few years I've driven my E500 more, and so it's probably going 18-24 months now between oil changes (5K miles). I like to take it to Dulles Airport for business trips, which is a 150-mile round trip from my house. That exercises it very nicely.

Agree with Gerry - Total Quartz 9000 5w40 (formerly Elf?) in my E500 200M+ 5000-6000 miles every 3-4 years

 

[R129 UK]

For Florida I would recommend 15W-50 or 20W-50.

Heck, for Maryland I use RedLine 15W-40 or 15W-50.

Could I use 2 quarts of 15W40 and 6 quarts of 15W50 Red Line for my next oil change?

I’m 2 quarts short and the 15W40 is a great price on clearance currently.

 

[gerryvz]

No problem at all doing that.

 

[gsxr]

I’m 2 quarts short and the 15W40 is a great price on clearance currently.

If you can get a great price on clearance... load up on the 15W40!

 

[R129 UK]

If you can get a great price on clearance... load up on the 15W40!

I just looked again and it is diesel "grade" but I don't think that is an issue either:

Post in thread 'Engine oil recommendations'

Jun 24, 2025

I saw that video a few days ago.

I think the main point was not to use Diesel oils for DIRECT-INJECTED engines.

I don't have an issue with diesel oils for flat-tappet valvetrains, as long as the ZDDP levels aren't too high, or too low. That said, I would NEVER run a Diesel-rated oil in my M117. Only Brad Penn.

I've run Diesel oil in all of my M104s for as long as I have run M104s, probably 20 years now. Never a problem. You can see the valvetrains from my G320 and also the E320 rebuild threads - all are exceedingly clean, thanks to the detergents in the Diesel-rated DELO 400...

• Seangbadee

• 
• 

 

[190EVAN]

Here in sunny Southern California I run 20W-50 Valvoline VR1 on all of our M119’s as they all have over 100K miles. (S420, S500, 4X SL500’s)

I’ve tried many different oils over the years and I’ve found the best results with the thicker VR1. I’ve found with the lower weight oils (what MB will sell you) these motors can get a little noisy.

Not to mention the VR1 has proven to actually stay in the motor while new runny Full synthetic will find its way through even the smallest leak points.

Now if I lived back east in New England where I used to be, or if the engines in my cars were low milage, I’d opt for the more runny Diesel oil, although their additive packages have become subpar due to emissions regulations.

I’ve found the M119’s aren’t as picky as the M117’s, with those I strictly run green Brad Penn and will never look elsewhere.

 

[Oldcar]

Here in sunny Southern California I run 20W-50 Valvoline VR1 on all of our M119’s as they all have over 100K miles. (S420, S500, 4X SL500’s)

I’ve tried many different oils over the years and I’ve found the best results with the thicker VR1. I’ve found with the lower weight oils (what MB will sell you) these motors can get a little noisy.

Not to mention the VR1 has proven to actually stay in the motor while new runny Full synthetic will find its way through even the smallest leak points.

Now if I lived back east in New England where I used to be, or if the engines in my cars were low milage, I’d opt for the more runny Diesel oil, although their additive packages have become subpar due to emissions regulations.

I’ve found the M119’s aren’t as picky as the M117’s, with those I strictly run green Brad Penn and will never look elsewhere.

Well 10 40 semi synth flows better
Also better for smog chk and oil leaks 20 50 may possibly be outdated unless you race

 

[gerryvz]

Here in sunny Southern California I run 20W-50 Valvoline VR1 on all of our M119’s as they all have over 100K miles. (S420, S500, 4X SL500’s)

I’ve tried many different oils over the years and I’ve found the best results with the thicker VR1. I’ve found with the lower weight oils (what MB will sell you) these motors can get a little noisy.

Not to mention the VR1 has proven to actually stay in the motor while new runny Full synthetic will find its way through even the smallest leak points.

Now if I lived back east in New England where I used to be, or if the engines in my cars were low milage, I’d opt for the more runny Diesel oil, although their additive packages have become subpar due to emissions regulations.

I’ve found the M119’s aren’t as picky as the M117’s, with those I strictly run green Brad Penn and will never look elsewhere.

I agree 100%. I will never stop wondering out loud why people insist on running 0W and 5W oils in the M119, M117, M104, etc. 10W, 15W and 20W are much preferred, with 40 and 50 on the top end of the oil grade. 15W-40 diesel oil is excellent for the M104.

And I agree with regard to the M117. There is no better oil for these engines than a 20W-50 Brad Penn.