Upshift Delay Switchover Valve, Open/Short Circuit (DM Code 26)

[emerydc8]

When pulling codes today, I got a dtc 26 on socket 19 (the Diagnostic Module). I also got a dtc 6 (Idle Speed Control inop.) but I'm not sure the two are related. Occasionally I get ETA issues when it freezes at night. Maybe the upshift delay problem has been there for some time but only manifests itself when it freezes.

Is the upshift delay the device on the left side of the transmission that has the hose running to the intake manifold? I'm thinking that as long as no transmission fluid is getting sucked into the intake on hard right turns, I don't really care if the car is held in low gear when it's cold. In fact, it is more of a nuisance when it works correctly.

 

[gsxr]

Re: Upshift Delay Switchover Valve, Open/Short Circuit

Jon, the error code is indicating an electrical issue with the cold upshift delay switchover solenoid, which is located on the firewall behind the brake booster. I've had this code pop up randomly on a few different cars, it seems fairly common, and usually goes away after clearing the code. The solenoid sends a vacuum signal to the kickdown cable on the tranny to increase the upshift RPM. No connection to tranny fluid though. This is on the passenger side of the tranny.

UPDATE: Although the FSM documentation states this code is electrical, it is actually triggered by the DM not seeing the expected high RPM's, indicating an "early" upshift. This means a vacuum problem will also cause DM code 26.

The device on the driver's side of the tranny is the vacuum modulator, this has a single vacuum tube going directly to the intake manifold. This controls how soft or firm the tranny shifts, based on engine load.

 

[emerydc8]

Re: Upshift Delay Switchover Valve, Open/Short Circuit

Thanks, Dave. It seems that these gremlins pop up more often when it gets cold.

 

[DrP]

Re: Upshift Delay Switchover Valve, Open/Short Circuit

question to the forum (Dave) : how difficult is it to repair the shift delay for the reverse on the .036 transmission? Mine is at >2sec now and getting longer (that's what concerns me). I assume there is a vacuum valve there special for the "R". Autoshift between the driving gears is ok and (still amazingly) rather smooth (when cold I have to be decent wit the acceleration, otherwise slipping occurs). Can that "R" delay be fatal at some time in the future (i.e. tranny does not shift into R anymore)?

 

[gerryvz]

Re: Upshift Delay Switchover Valve, Open/Short Circuit

I have found this upshift delay code only rears its ugly head on my M119 and M104-engined cars in cold weather, and is often the reason for CEL getting lit.

I just clear the code/reset the light (2-3x per winter) and wait for warmer weather to arrive.

Cheers,
Gerry

 

[gerryvz]

Re: Upshift Delay Switchover Valve, Open/Short Circuit

repair the shift delay for the reverse on the .036 transmission? Mine is at >2sec now and getting longer (that's what concerns me).

Long engagement into reverse is a classic warning sign of an impending transmission rebuild. This condition means that your transmission is worn and will require new friction materials (B3) and an exterior (and front pump) re-seal. The transmission will have to be removed to remedy this. You're talking about a $2,000 bill to have this job done right. The good news is that your transmission will probably go another 250K+ miles.

There are a couple of threads on this, one good one being here.

Cheers,
Gerry

 

[gsxr]

Re: Upshift Delay Switchover Valve, Open/Short Circuit

Ditto what Gerry said. However, a 2-second delay is not bad. My wife's 92 500E has been going for a few years now with a 2-3 second delay into reverse. When it gets to 4-5 seconds (or longer!), then it's time to worry. Very rough pricing is ~$2k for the rebuild and a solid 10-12 hours labor to R&R. Driven lightly, you might get another 600kmi out of it, especially if you use synthetic ATF.

 

[Jelmer]

Re: Upshift Delay Switchover Valve, Open/Short Circuit

Yep, I had a 3-4 second delay into reverse, and could actually hear stuff grinding in the gearbox when the car was up in the air.

Cost me ~€3500, but left me with a very smooth and quick gearbox. Was really worth it, imho.

 

[DrP]

Re: Upshift Delay Switchover Valve, Open/Short Circuit

When it gets to 4-5 seconds (or longer!), then it's time to worry.

WOW...I am not there yet. Well next year is kind of decisive for my car as I either spend 10 or 15 grand to rebuild the engine&tranny or I find a museum that takes my car after 625k. Would love to rebuild the whole car but it's expensive and I cannot do it myself (I run 3 jobs for the time being incl. internat. travel, no free time whatsoever)

 

[Jelmer]

Re: Upshift Delay Switchover Valve, Open/Short Circuit

WOW...I am not there yet. Well next year is kind of decisive for my car as I either spend 10 or 15 grand to rebuild the engine&tranny or I find a museum that takes my car after 625k. Would love to rebuild the whole car but it's expensive and I cannot do it myself (I run 3 jobs for the time being incl. internat. travel, no free time whatsoever)

Set up a Paypal donate fund, or start a Kickstarter project. Let others help out Hell, I kinda think Mercedes should service this car for free - it's a running testament to their (former quality)!

 

[gsxr]

Re: Upshift Delay Switchover Valve, Open/Short Circuit

The tranny could last a long, long time if it is not slipping or flaring, or exhibiting any other odd shift behavior. Is there any reason to think the engine may need a rebuild? If it doesn't consume oil or water, doesn't smoke, and power output is good... no need to mess with the engine either.

 

[DrP]

Re: Upshift Delay Switchover Valve, Open/Short Circuit

The tranny could last a long, long time if it is not slipping or flaring, or exhibiting any other odd shift behavior. Is there any reason to think the engine may need a rebuild? If it doesn't consume oil or water, doesn't smoke, and power output is good... no need to mess with the engine either.

Dave you are right with the engine as far as pistons/block/crankshaft goes. Unfortunately the front cover gasket is leaking like heck, to renew that you have to take off the heads --> nearly a rebuild. The head gaskets are ok, as is power, gas consumption and everything else. At the next GTG I let s.o. else drive the car if he sees a power difference to his own car (most have <100k here in the forum). Obviously I try to go as far as I can (with bandaid and whatsoever). The tranny is fine with me, the upshift is still smooth....let's see how long she goes

 

[gsxr]

Re: Upshift Delay Switchover Valve, Open/Short Circuit

Dave you are right with the engine as far as pistons/block/crankshaft goes. Unfortunately the front cover gasket is leaking like heck, to renew that you have to take off the heads --> nearly a rebuild.

Hmmm. I wonder where the leak is exactly. The junction between the front timing cover and the block almost never leaks, unless it had previously been R&R'd improperly. This can be replaced/resealed without removing the heads, but as you say it's better to replace the head gaskets too.... however that is a huuuuuuuge job. Any chance it's the front crankshaft seal which is leaking? A couple times I traced oil leaks which looked like they were coming from the timing cover, back to the cam solenoids! Oil has a funny way of traveling, and you'd be amazed at how much oil can migrate from the cam solenoid to pretty much all over the place, without the source being obvious.

The head gaskets are ok, as is power, gas consumption and everything else. At the next GTG I let s.o. else drive the car if he sees a power difference to his own car (most have <100k here in the forum). Obviously I try to go as far as I can (with bandaid and whatsoever). The tranny is fine with me, the upshift is still smooth....let's see how long she goes

Cool. I say keep driving it. But it would be nice to take care of the oil leaks!

 

[gerryvz]

Re: Upshift Delay Switchover Valve, Open/Short Circuit

Instead of a $10-15K rebuild, why not spend $5K for a used drivetrain and drop that in?

 

[ivanned]

Re: Upshift Delay Switchover Valve, Open/Short Circuit

Or bid for the mecum one

 

[emerydc8]

Re: Upshift Delay Switchover Valve, Open/Short Circuit

I have found this upshift delay code only rears its ugly head on my M119 and M104-engined cars in cold weather, and is often the reason for CEL getting lit.
I just clear the code/reset the light (2-3x per winter) and wait for warmer weather to arrive.

Cheers,
Gerry

Thanks Gerry. I'll most likely do the same thing.

Update: This has been the first rain of the winter and sure enough the car was in limp home mode on the first start today. I don't know what it is about these conditions that make it do this. A quick restart and it works fine. Go figure.

 

[bpat]

Re: Upshift Delay Switchover Valve, Open/Short Circuit

I'm having the same issue. CEL light came on. Dealer found code 026 and on further investigation said the transmission upshift delay valve and actuation solenoid "both intermittently sticking causing concern." They cleared the code. No charge. But they estimated $1000 parts and labor to replace the delay valve and solenoid. I passed on that. Now the light just came back on. It has been unusually cold here (for Southern Oregon) and perhaps that's the reason. Is there anyway I can clear the code again on my own? I don't have any special equipment for that. The car runs great btw.

Thanks,
Bruce

 

[gerryvz]

Re: Upshift Delay Switchover Valve, Open/Short Circuit

Sure, you can easily clear this code using the underhood 8-pin diagnostic port (with the button and LED) near the CAN box.

Do some background reading here: http://www.500eboard.com/forums/sho...s-(Diagnostic-Trouble-Codes)-on-the-500E-E500

Because it's your CEL, you don't need a code reader -- you can reset the CEL with the pushbutton and blinking LED.

Cheers,
Gerry

 

[gsxr]

Re: Upshift Delay Switchover Valve, Open/Short Circuit

I'm having the same issue. CEL light came on. Dealer found code 026 and on further investigation said the transmission upshift delay valve and actuation solenoid "both intermittently sticking causing concern." They cleared the code. No charge. But they estimated $1000 parts and labor to replace the delay valve and solenoid. I passed on that. Now the light just came back on. It has been unusually cold here (for Southern Oregon) and perhaps that's the reason. Is there anyway I can clear the code again on my own? I don't have any special equipment for that. The car runs great btw.

As Gerry said, you can check/clear codes for the CEL only, using the built-in blinker. Remember that to check codes on individual modules you need a hand-held blinker box.

Anyway - your dealer's diagnosis was incorrect. DM code 26 is "Upshift delay switchover valve, open/short circuit". This is NOT anything on the transmission. It is the electrical solenoid located behind the brake booster, which opens/closes a vacuum line to the transmission control pressure (Bowden) cable. The valve is energized after a cold start to apply vacuum, which makes the engine rev higher before upshfiting, to heat up the catalysts faster. I.e., it's an emission control gadget. The code is indicating a wiring fault, or possibly a defective solenoid coil. Edit - see update to post #2 above.

I've had this code appear randomly on a couple of my cars but it's very infrequent. In general you can ignore it, although if it comes up frequently it warrants closer inspection.

I believe the item they are referring to at ~$1000 on the transmission is the transmission overload protection switch, which will not trigger a CEL, but instead would trigger a code on the EZL (pin 17). Edit - the $1k quote may have been to replace a Bowden / control pressure cable assembly with a faulty vacuum chamber.

I hate incompetent dealers...

 

[emerydc8]

Out of curiosity, could a vacuum leak at the solenoid cause this fault? It has been cold here in Tucson and I pulled this code a few days ago and cleared it out. I have no problem ignoring it because I really don't want the shift to be delayed anyway; so, it's working like I want it to. I'm just wondering if I this is a common area for a vacuum leak. Thanks guys.

 

[gsxr]

Out of curiosity, could a vacuum leak at the solenoid cause this fault? It has been cold here in Tucson and I pulled this code a few days ago and cleared it out. I have no problem ignoring it because I really don't want the shift to be delayed anyway; so, it's working like I want it to. I'm just wondering if I this is a common area for a vacuum leak. Thanks guys.

That's a good question. I'm not sure if the computers "know" if there is a vacuum problem, i.e. if they see the RPM is not increasing as expected. The docs just say the code indicates an electrical issue but I believe we determined a similar issue with the smog pump, i.e. the docs indicate an electrical fault, but the system is looking at other variables too. I've plugged the vacuum line on most of my cars and there is no CEL with the line plugged, btw.

Edit - Yes, the Diagnostic Module does monitor RPM and will trigger DM code 26 if it expected a late (higher-RPM upshift) and does not "see" this. The FSM description specifying an electrical failure is incorrect!

 

[gerryvz]

The dealer isn't being incompetent ... just being a dealer and charging twice what they should for a job. Their diagnosis was actually correct per that code -- it could be one of several things.

Actually, a bad (vacuum leaking) upshift delay valve on the transmission itself can trigger this CEL code -- and is actually the cause of the problem about 90% of the time. It is not ONLY or SOLELY the solenoid (switchover valve) that Dave talks about above, behind the brake booster. There are generally these two possible causes for this problem. (A third cause would be the vacuum line itself, but that's the least probable cause).

There are two vacuum connections to the transmission -- one from the intake manifold (which goes to the modulator), and the other from the switchover valve behind the brake booster.

What you can do is to pull the green vacuum line from the solenoid behind the brake booster that Dave mentions, and attach it to a Mityvac. Load it up with a bit of vacuum and see if it holds it. This will tell you very quickly if the upshift delay valve on the transmission is leaking or not.

The reason I just live with this is that the upshift delay valve was around $250 last time I checked -- I think it's well over $300 now. Since it's only used when the car & ambient temps are cold, and even then only a couple of times as the car warms up, it doesn't affect in any way/shape/form the actual running of the engine or the shifting of the transmission after the first couple of shifts on a cold morning. What I'm saying is that the investment in the part isn't worth the return. It's easier/cheaper to just reset the CEL the 4-5 times a year that I get a CEL triggered by this problem.

Lastly, these are a PITA (4+ book hours labor) to change out. I have heard of folks just putting a BB (plug) in the line and avoiding the hassle of it entirely.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,
Gerry

 

[gsxr]

Gerry, the docs in the WIS state for DM code 26: "Upshift delay switchover valve, open/short circuit - Test LH-SFI, section 3.1"

Maybe you can show the docs which support your claim above? I can't find anything that indicates a vacuum problem will trigger DM code 26.

Note that if the DM code is valid, there should also be an identical code at the LH module (pin 4).

Edit - nothing in the factory docs indicate a vacuum issue can cause code 26, but indeed it does.

 

[gerryvz]

All that description says is that the valve isn't working correctly and making the transmission hold the shift longer. The electrical connection is only part of the system; the actual control to the transmission is achieved via vacuum. So if the vacuum portion isn't working (i.e. a vac leak at the delay valve on the transmission, or at the switchover valve itself), it will manifest itself as a fault with the switchover valve. Obviously the WIS can't test the vacuum portion of this system.

Trust me, I have had this problem on all of my 124s and I have researched and diagnosed it thoroughly. The WIS is only telling you part of the potential problem. Think broader and look at the whole switchover system, not just what the WIS is telling you about the integrity of the electrical portion of it. Just going strictly by codes and WIS trees doesn't always tell the whole story, or provide the whole solution.

Cheers,
Gerry

 

[gsxr]

"Open/short circuit" is, by definition, electrical. The system does have a vacuum portion but the DTC description does not reference vacuum.

It would be interesting to see if people with the recurring DM code 26 can test their Bowden cable assemblies and see if they are indeed faulty (won't hold vacuum), or not.

Again, as I stated above, I have the vacuum line for the upshift delay PLUGGED (on purpose) on most of my cars, with no CEL. If the DM would throw a code every time there was no cold upshift delay, I'd have the CEL on all the time.

Edit - the DM appears to do a poor job of recognizing when the upshift delay isn't working, which is why the CEL isn't on all the time.

 

[gerryvz]

I've said all I can with regard to the causes of this issue, and how to isolate it to one of the two main components of the UD system. The Bowden cable isn't directly involved in the upshift delay vac/electrical actuation itself.



Cheers,
Gerry

 

[gsxr]

The Bowden cable isn't directly involved in the upshift delay vac/electrical actuation itself.

Gerry, maybe you have your systems mixed up. The Bowden cable is directly involved in the upshift delay. There are two vacuum actuators present on the (latest part number) Bowden cable assembly shown below, one for the E/S function (not used on USA models), and the second is for the cold upshift delay to heat the catalysts. The LH module sends an electrical signal to Y3/3 (Upshift delay switchover valve) which sends vacuum to the Bowden cable when the solenoid is energized.

The original US-spec Bowden cables only had one vacuum actuators, for the cold upshift delay. MB later superceded this to the dual-chamber part. The unused vacuum actuator gets plugged if the E/S function is not present, e.g. on US-spec cars.

Original USA-spec, single-vacuum-actuator Bowden cable shown below, MB part # 140-270-10-73 (no longer available):

, indeed.

 

[gerryvz]

What I said was that the Bowden cable is not a direct part of the solenoid-to-upshift-delay-valve vacuum including the solenoid's electrical connection. The Bowden cable is actuated and controls the shift, as you state (and as I stated) as a result of the upshift delay activation.

I know you are on a jihad to prove me wrong with this, and I am OK with that.

 

[gsxr]

 

[gerryvz]

Like I said, the vacuum element is very likely the culprit (not holding vacuum), NOT the solenoid behind the brake booster. It can be tested through the means I mentioned above (using a Mityvac) in about 1 minute. It is a PITA to replace, and an expensive part. As both Dave and I mentioned, a BB can be inserted to fool the system into thinking the element (if indeed bad) is holding vacuum, and this will eliminate the CEL as the result of a leaking vacuum element at the upshift delay valve.


Cheers,
Gerry

 

[gerryvz]

This thread prompted me to go outside and test my E500 and my E320 wagon using the Mityvac test, as it has been some time since I've done this.

The E500 has never given me an upshift delay code. The E320 has given them to me for at least the past 3-4 winters.

The E500 tested just fine. You can see the solenoid (switchover valve) behind the booster here, and then the attachment of the Mityvac, and steady reading of the Mityvac.



Next up was the E320. You can see that the E320 has a green vacuum line, as opposed to the black-with-green-stripe line of the E500.


Then, I disconnected the rubber elbow from the switchover valve, and attached the Mityvac. No vacuum. None.


Pulling the Mityvac off of the rubber elbow, I found the following:


Replacing the rubber elbow with one from my stash (remembering the extra 124 elbows I had from replacing them at the ACC vacuum distribution point behind the passenger side airbag) it was a 30-second operation to replace the elbow and re-attach the Mityvac.

Voila! We have steady vacuum.


So, it seems that my wife's E320 code 26 may well be caused by a faulty rubber elbow at the connection of the vacuum line between the switchover valve and the transmission's upshift delay valve. We'll see if a code 26 returns.....
In the meantime I'll order the correct vac elbow on my pending MB parts order.

Thanks, GSXR, for prompting me to go out and check my cars !!

Cheers,
Gerry

 

[emerydc8]

Wow. I asked one question, went to dinner, and see that I started a whole chain of chain-yanking. In my case, though, I think I got the answer I was looking for.

I got as far as you did, Gerry, when I realized that my elbow was cracked too. I replaced the elbow and hooked it up to the Mighty Vac but still got no vacuum. Out of curiosity, I sucked on the hose going to the transmission and there is definitely a transmission fluid smell. So I capped off the solenoid (picture) and will leave it like it is. Not to start any more heated discussion tonight, but can I presume this will take care of the DTC 26?

Thanks Gerry and GSXR for prompting me to check this out.

Do I need to cap the open elbow in the first picture too?

 

[gerryvz]

I am the 500Eboard leader at receiving the Chain-Yank Award (I think I have three of them, two from GSXR and one from Jelmer) so would you expect anything less ?!?

Get another elbow (should be cheap at your dealer or perhaps at an auto parts store) and install it, and re-Mityvac it. That will tell you for sure the condition of your upshift delay valve's vacuum-holding capabilities.

If it turns out to be bad, I'd probably just BB it (as Dave said he's done) and be done with it. If it's good, then you've likely solved your problem with the new elbow!

Cheers,
Gerry

 

[emerydc8]

I just replaced the elbow. There was no vacuum on the Mighty Vac with the new elbow either, so should I presume the transmission side component is bad? Do you put the bb in the solenoid nipple or in the hose going to the transmission? I'm not too clear on that. I capped solenoid off with the rubber boot as shown in my first picture.

Thanks to both of you for prompting me to check this out.

 

[gerryvz]

Put the BB in the hose leading to the transmission. Reason is that you can always cut the end of the hose with the BB in it if you ever need to remove the BB. Would be much tougher at the solenoid nipple.

Make sure when you Mityvac it that you have a good seal between the elbow/hose and the Mityvac attachment. If you're sure it's a good seal then it's very likely the upshift delay valve at the transmission is shot. That's BB time, yes.

Also a good reminder to everyone else with US-spec cars: check your rubber elbows at the switchover valve/solenoid !!!

Cheers,
Gerry

P.S. to gsxr

 

[emerydc8]

Okay, I'll go out and put the bb in the hose leading to the transmission. I did check for a good seal when I tested it with the Mighty Vac, so I presume the upshift valve at the transmission is bad. Maybe it's time to do those other three vacuum fittings behind the brake booster based on the condition of the solenoid valve elbow. Don't they have something to do with the environmental control system? Thanks again to both of you.

 

[gerryvz]

For reference ... related threads:

http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?3544-Vacuum-valve (notice the last 4 sentences in post #15, from Salvine, which details what I was attempting to say in my posts on this thread)

http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?1887-HOW-TO-Replacing-C126-Vacuum-Check-Valves

Cheers,
Gerry

 

[emerydc8]

The most common fault on US cars with this system is the vac pod on the trans side of the cable. It ruptures and stops the delay from happening. In that case the trans shifts normally when cold but a fault will be stored. Since this is emission related it will set the check engine light.

That sounds good to me. I'll just clear the occasional codes in the winter and leave it alone. Hopefully a ruptured diaphragm won't eventually result in a leak at the transmission.

Thanks for the other link too, Gerry. I'll put these parts on my list of things to order.

 

[gsxr]

Nice work, guys! Please report back in a few months and let us know if the dreaded CEL Code 26 has been exorcised via BB or hose replacement.

Note that the E320 wagon has a completely different (HFM) engine management system and CEL code 26 mayr, or may not, have identical root causes compared to the .034/.036 LH system.

 

[gerryvz]

Actually, the DM blink/DTC code #26 for the M104 with HFM injection is, indeed, "upshift delay defective." A physically similar upshift delay vacuum valve/cable assembly is used at the transmission, and an identical (as pictured above) switchover valve is used behind the brake booster. The systems are functionally identical.

The Code #26 similarity between the .036 and the M104 engine W124s can be confirmed on Page 4 of the now-famous GSXR "W124 DTC -- Models with M104 Engine Only!" document, cross-referenced with pages 9 (LH codes) and 24 (DM codes) of the GSXR "W124 DTC - Models with M119 Engine Only!" document.

Cheers,
Gerry

 

[gsxr]

The DM codes are the same for both chassis (actually, all 124 with HFM or LH injection). However the DM simply collects data from the engine management system (either HFM or LH). So yes, the DM code/translation will be the same, but the factors which trigger it may be different on the two different engine management systems... the factory docs don't make this clear in the documentation. Neither system has the ability to sense if vacuum is present at either the inlet to the vacuum valve, or the output to the control pressure cable vacuum actuator.

 

[Mercedes only]

What about this in my car " E500 - 92 " ?? //

Does it need to re-arrange ?? ..

Any Comment ........

 

[195910]

ALL the hoses are cut off !! This car needs help.

 

[Mercedes only]

Some , removed during image capture .
Can I get the order?

 

[Jelmer]

Err, what exactly did you remove yourself, and what are you worried about? I see quite a lot of things wrong here ...

 

[Mercedes only]

Blue: myself , And was prepared to the same place .
Red: before , Where is its location ?? .
Green: have not changed, and is it true ??

 

[gerryvz]

Wow. I asked one question, went to dinner, and see that I started a whole chain of chain-yanking. In my case, though, I think I got the answer I was looking for.

I got as far as you did, Gerry, when I realized that my elbow was cracked too. I replaced the elbow and hooked it up to the Mighty Vac but still got no vacuum. Out of curiosity, I sucked on the hose going to the transmission and there is definitely a transmission fluid smell. So I capped off the solenoid (picture) and will leave it like it is. Not to start any more heated discussion tonight, but can I presume this will take care of the DTC 26?

Thanks Gerry and GSXR for prompting me to check this out.

Do I need to cap the open elbow in the first picture too?

We're you able to clear the DM (Dave Mushroom) code 26??

 

[emerydc8]

Yes. I cleared the DTC 26 and plugged the solenoid and hose going to the transmission. So far it hasn't returned. It had rained here for the past few days. Yesterday, on the first start of the day, it started in limp home mode with DTC 3 on pin 7 and DTC 6 on pin 19. The manual points to a bad ISC. It only happens in the winter when it rains and on the first start of the day (go figure). Once the engine is restarted, there is no problem. I don't know where else to look on this one. I guess I'll just live with it.

 

[DW SD]

Guys, I had pin 19, code 26 surface with a vacuum leak in the 5mm or 6mm black plastic vacuum line adjacent to the power steering reservoir. When I re-installed the lower bolt to the plastic shroud that surrounds the distributor, while working only by feel, I pinched the black plastic vacuum line and it cracked. Interestingly, the black vacuum line doesn't tie directly to the transmission delay switch (at least from what I can see).

This also triggered code 19 on pin 19 - the adaptation DTC. I suspect adaptation was out of range due to the vacuum leak.

Dave gave me the tip to look for a vacuum leak. i found in quickly, once I retraced my steps.

Doug

 

[samiam44]

Yea the black line goes to the emission canister evac valve I believe.

Anyone ever try just spraying out the switch with WD40 to loosen up and remove any stickiness?


Michael