Differential Mounts

[195910]

Hi Everyone,

Has anyone replaced the Differential mounts on a 124036? Number of hours?

Thanks

 

[gsxr]

I've not yet done this, but it requires completely removing the differential (several hour R&R, plus time to clean & re-seal the diff)... and, it may not be possible to change the rear diff mounts without lowering or removing the subframe. The back side does not have adequate space to fit the bushing tools - it's not the same as the 4/5/6 cylinder cars with smaller bushings. And you need to measure the depth of both prior to removal, then install the new ones to the identical position.

 

[luckymike]

Eeew.

 

[liviu165]

it requires completely removing the differential (several hour R&R, plus time to clean & re-seal the diff)... and, it may not be possible to change the rear diff mounts without lowering or removing the subframe.

Is still not too late to switch to C126, guys. Just saying.

 

[gerryvz]

Is still not too late to switch to C126, guys. Just saying.

Those in the know here, know. Unfortunately a few are close-minded, so they will never know.

 

[195910]

Those in the know here, know. Unfortunately a few are close-minded, so they will never know.

There are cars we know, cars we know we don't know and cars we think we know but don't know.
The 126 is a car I know I don't know.

 

[Eno]

Does anyone know the tool required for Differential mounts removal?

 

[gsxr]

The factory tool is NLA, but included parts to work across multiple chassis. It also sets the depth of the bushing.

You can use an aftermarket bushing tool that will accept 66mm bushings, but you MUST measure the depth of the old bushing before removal, and set the new bushing to the same location.

Pics below from W124performance/images/tools/diff:

 

[Rouven036]

Besides all the work to get to the bushings it's a snap with the oe tool.
Why all the hassle? It is needed to set the differential "straight" into the carrier so your prop shaft is well angled therefore observe also the height adjustment washer on the front mount with either 1-2 or 3 notches and place it back as it was (prop shaft inclination).
As stated several times, measure old position prior r&r.

 

[jnes]

These might be a bit stupid questions, but...

Will this OE tool also take care of that height position? What if the old bushings are worn out, then the measurement won't be correct (height allingment)?

Then I'll try to understand the working principle of the OE tool. Is that arm only for measuring and restricting to pull new bushing too far during installation? And tool is capable of installing the new bushing? If yes I think you can use thick steel plate and proper length arm to measure proper depth of the bushing?

 

[gsxr]

The OE tool sets the depth of the 2 rear / large mounts. This doesn't affect vertical height of the diff, but it does affect the alignment to the propshaft (left/right). So yes, the OE tool will set / measure the proper location to pull the new bushings into place, and yes it is capable of removing & installing the bushing. The OE tool was NLA last I checked though?

 

[jnes]

I checked from the dealer that OE tool is still available. Price was only 1995€.

 

[LWB250]

I tried this on a 300E once and (rightly) backed away from it. It's actually easier on a "regular" W124, but the clearances are almost as difficult.

Dan

 

[jnes]

Just got back my subframe and started to assembly bushings.. How accurate the measurement of the diff bushings have to be? Are we talking like 1 mm or 0,1mm or even more accuracy, 0,01mm? I measured the old bushings depth (like 7,4mm) but there were some variance and now I'm bit confused what is the correct depth for new bushing. (did not marked the direction of the bushing when removing)

I installed new bushings with Miller tool and depth seems to be very close when I painted old bushings before taking them out.

I bet the depth should be quite close in every E500E cars from the factory if the rear diff bushings have not replaced before.
What kind of readings/depths you have measured?

Thanks,
jnes

 

[gsxr]

Wild guessing... try to get better than 1mm. Close to 0.5mm would be nice, I'd be happy with that. Sounds like you'll just have to try it as-is!

 

[dionphaneuf]

IIRC the bolt holes on both the mounts and the diff have some amount of clearance relative to the bolt shanks. I'd think the key thing is to get the L and R sides as close as possible relative vs their fore/aft positioning but both seem important. I didn't end up dropping my subframe when I did my diff replacement and only did the front mount. The 'new' diff did best with no shims vs the old one which wanted 1mm, and yet the new diff still has a mild vibration in the 35-50 MPH range. I've tossed around the idea of taking an angle grinder to the nose mount to get even more upward angle to set this properly..

 

[gsxr]

Left & right sides may be offset slightly, as the factory tool is designed to "pivot" the diff so the FRONT mounting hole is dead center. However, due to the seemingly large tolerances, I suspect if they are close, it will be good 'nuff.

Setting propshaft angle is another fun topic... see FSM jobs related to this.

 

[dionphaneuf]

Oh, how I wish I had read that before