Thanks for the tip. I almost ordered a set from the dealer but held off at the last minute as mine are still okay. Just received a set from Amazon today and they were indeed SGF joints. Dorman is usually one step above craptastic and not to be trusted with anything electrical but sometimes the only option on NLA domestic parts.
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Rear differential removal
- Thread starter darek_u
- Start date
In this case, as with occasionally happens with FEBI, the Dorman part happened to be a re-boxed OEM SGF part.
Sometimes, a little information helps all of us win the parts reboxing "Russian Roulette" game. Especially now that FEBI evidently is no longer making the SGF part available in their rebox kits.
I know for me, I will not buy anything FEBI or DORMAN unless I know 99.9% what is inside that box. SGF flex discs happen to be a long-standing quality reboxed part for FEBI and evidently now for DORMAN. We all win.
FYI when I ordered they only had one but 2 shipped right away. Curious to the number remaining in the inventory. I bet Dorman purchased discontinued stock from the Stellantis group. When I work on Chrysle/ Dodge/ Ram junk parts are most of the time NLA even for vehicles less than a few years old. GM is not much better. Planned obsolescence. So much for law requiring manufacturers to stop critical parts for 10 years.
Just received the order and discs are made by SGF.
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I went on to Amazon and found the Dorman flexible discs (#935-501), which are equivalent to 170-410-00-15 for my 1995 E320.Just received the order and discs are made by SGF.
https://a.co/d/esYHla0
If they are truly reboxed originals (SGF), I would purchase another 2 to keep in my garage. They are a fraction of the cost from the dealer.
1954-1993 Mercedes-Benz Parts Kit, Flex Disk 170-410-00-15 | MB OEM Parts
1954-1993 Mercedes-Benz part # 170-410-00-15 - Parts Kit, Flex Disk
www.mboemparts.com
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When I worked on my car, I did all the above,No need to remove the ENTIRE exhaust, but you do need to remove the muffler.
However - to get the driveshaft to slide forward, you must loosen the driveshaft center support. Doesnt have to be removed, just loosened. For easy access, the FSM says to drop the entire exhaust. But if you remove the heat shield nuts, there is just barely enough room to slide tools up there to reach the 13mm hex head bolts and loosen each a few turns. Once that is done, the driveshaft will slide to the front enough to separate from the diff.
If removing the axle shafts, consider replacing the rear wheel bearings, if you have the tools for it. And if you havent replaced the main fuel tank hose that exits the center of the tank, it will never be easier than when the diff is removed...
but I also decided to change out the filter for the gas tank, along with all the other rubber hoses.
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I know!
I changed these 2 hoses that run to and from the fuel vent valve, because they were fossilized…..
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I received my Amazon order today, and can confirm that the flexible discs are SGF, made in Germany. No hardware included.I went on to Amazon and found the Dorman flexible discs (#935-501), which are equivalent to 170-410-00-15 for my 1995 E320.
https://a.co/d/esYHla0
If they are truly reboxed originals (SGF), I would purchase another 2 to keep in my garage. They are a fraction of the cost from the dealer.
1954-1993 Mercedes-Benz Parts Kit, Flex Disk 170-410-00-15 | MB OEM Parts
1954-1993 Mercedes-Benz part # 170-410-00-15 - Parts Kit, Flex Disk
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This filter from the first photo - how did you get to this one? Is it screwed into the gas tank?
Yup. Easy access with the differential removed.
Thanks gents! So it sounds like if one intends to reseal their existing differential or replace the differential with a wavetrac, then that would be a good time to replace this filter yes? @Seangbadee did you use 201-470-05-06?
Maybe you could take two small pieces of wood like fingers.....
Drill a hole through them and run a bolt through the holes in the two fingers. Use the long bolt with nuts to adjust the two fingers to be exactly 46mm and take off the filter that way?
To be honest that sounds like a lot of frustration --- 46mm socket I agree is unusual, but it seems pretty inexpensive?
I know I sound like a cheap bastard but it is not about the money. I want to remove it rather sooner than later, I don't want to wait until the socket is delivered. It would be Monday - Tuesday the earliest... I'll try to borrow it from the neighbourhood mechanic shop first thing tomorrow but, considering the odd size, they may not have it.
Ever tried the redneck method? (My father in law is Polish and told me he doesn't know the translation of "redneck")
Anyway, being what this is, I can't imagine there's a lot of torque involved. It must be stuck because of age and other FOD accumulated over the years. This works in various applications, especially if you have a direct strike line to where the pressure needs to be focused: the flat just before the point. I've actually used this in 124 work (amongst others), specifically the rear SLS line bolts on the wagon where the connections to the spheres are impossible to reach, unless this is deployed (5 years down and no leaks)
The short version:
You want to strike the 46mm in this area so to loosen the bolt. I generally use a sacrificial flat head, or other tool. But before doing so, start the striking point with a chisel so to carve out a small divot in which the primary tool can maximize its grip as you hammer to loosen. You don't want to use that chisel as a primary tool as it will eat into the side of the filter body. The objective is to create a hard edge in the direction of the strike to force the nut loose.
A couple things about this method:
1. It's not about getting it loose in one strike. Low torque application, tap and strike, get things loosened up slowly.
2. The 'substrate' matters. How firm is the filter to tank connection? When you strike it does it feel malleable? if so, stop. I have no experience in this interface.
3. if the screwdriver doesn't feel forceful, you can nudge anything in the divot. A hardened bolt head, drift, anything.
4. if you try this method you release me of any liability from recommeding it. Ha!
Anyway, being what this is, I can't imagine there's a lot of torque involved. It must be stuck because of age and other FOD accumulated over the years. This works in various applications, especially if you have a direct strike line to where the pressure needs to be focused: the flat just before the point. I've actually used this in 124 work (amongst others), specifically the rear SLS line bolts on the wagon where the connections to the spheres are impossible to reach, unless this is deployed (5 years down and no leaks)
The short version:
You want to strike the 46mm in this area so to loosen the bolt. I generally use a sacrificial flat head, or other tool. But before doing so, start the striking point with a chisel so to carve out a small divot in which the primary tool can maximize its grip as you hammer to loosen. You don't want to use that chisel as a primary tool as it will eat into the side of the filter body. The objective is to create a hard edge in the direction of the strike to force the nut loose.
A couple things about this method:
1. It's not about getting it loose in one strike. Low torque application, tap and strike, get things loosened up slowly.
2. The 'substrate' matters. How firm is the filter to tank connection? When you strike it does it feel malleable? if so, stop. I have no experience in this interface.
3. if the screwdriver doesn't feel forceful, you can nudge anything in the divot. A hardened bolt head, drift, anything.
4. if you try this method you release me of any liability from recommeding it. Ha!
I can see this method has different names all over the world. We call it here russian wrench
It will not work in this application - filter is made of aluminium and the "nut" part is fairly thin. Anyway, I ordered 46mm socket, it should arrive on Monday. Delays, delays....
I did a bit of overkill, and removed my empty tank to sand and recoat it. At that point, I removed the filter and changed out other components. As Dave pointed, access is much easier with the differential removed.
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It’s been a while, but I believe that’s the part number I used. The old unit had the 201 number on. The strainers that start with the 104 numbers are the smaller ones.
I’m glad I watched the video before I changed mine, so I knew what to look out for.
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FYI, for USA residents, there are 46mm sockets available on Amazon for under $20 delivered. Buy one now, if you don't have it already, and plan to work on this in the future... note the 46mm socket is also used for the fuel level sending unit. so it's a dual-purpose tool!
If you are buying the Dorman brand 935-501 joint disc coupler for the 1995 E320, do not buy this one (the one with bolts), Dorman - 935-501 - DRIVESHAFT FLEX JOINT COUPLER as it is not the original Made in Germany one.
Instead, this is the one you should purchase Dorman 935-501 Drive Shaft Coupler Compatible with Select Mercedes-Benz Models https://a.co/d/523yahv
The shims should stay with the differential housing. If the new diff had shims, leave those alone, and don't add any other shims. You SHOULD be ok. Strange your old diff had no shims.
It's fine to re-use the existing hardware, if undamaged. Clean the threads, and use a bit of threadlock when installing. The washer ALWAYS goes against the flex disc, NEVER the metal flange. The Febi hardware is nothing special. The OE hardware is stupid expensive from the dealer.
I couldn’t agree more. That is exactly what I did, (and torqued to specifications), when I replaced mine..
I'm tacking this question on here as it may help others.
I'm in the process of removing the differential. Everything is disconnected and I have loosened the driveshaft support bolts. I cannot get the support to move forward. Are these two bolts in slotted holes? I have tapped on the support and cannot get any movement. I'm working with cats and heat shield in place so I can't see.
I'm in the process of removing the differential. Everything is disconnected and I have loosened the driveshaft support bolts. I cannot get the support to move forward. Are these two bolts in slotted holes? I have tapped on the support and cannot get any movement. I'm working with cats and heat shield in place so I can't see.
Yes - the bolts are in slotted holes. It only moves forward/back maybe 3/4 inch at most? It's just enough to pry the rear half of the shaft forward and off the diff input flange.
If not already done, remove the 6 little nuts that hold the heatshield to the floor, and pry the heatshield down so it lays on the catalysts. This gives you a tiny bit more visibility. Stuff an LED bar light up there as well so you can see what's going on. The bolts need to be loosened about 3-4 turns.
Success. I wrongly assumed the differential would come out with the driveshaft in place. 
I removed one of the driveshaft safety loop nuts and was able to JUST move the driveshaft out of the centering bushing and over to the side. This did require pushing the center support rubber forward even with the support loose. The fuel pump assembly restricts removing the complete safety loop and having it present provides support for the driveshaft.
Next question: do the ASR connections pull off or am I removing the cap screw and removing the entire sensor?
I removed one of the driveshaft safety loop nuts and was able to JUST move the driveshaft out of the centering bushing and over to the side. This did require pushing the center support rubber forward even with the support loose. The fuel pump assembly restricts removing the complete safety loop and having it present provides support for the driveshaft.Next question: do the ASR connections pull off or am I removing the cap screw and removing the entire sensor?
These are tricky - don't force anything! Pry downward at the "ears" of the flat plastic face of the multi-holed connector. It will pry downward only a little, like 3-5mm or so. Once pried down, the wire connectors will easily pull out of the plastic connector body. Uh, this assumes you are talking about the chassis side connector with 4 wires (the other two are for the brake pad wear sensors).
At the differential, remove the cap screw and gently pry the entire sensor upward out of the diff housing. Rotate gently as needed while pulling / prying upward.
Here's what the sensor look like. Be careful - they are, of course, NLA:
I was asking about the differential side but thank you for including the chassis side. I've been contemplating how I would get the brake wear sensors out of the sub frame. Wasn't sure the entire plug on the caliper would pass. Your instructions will allow me to encase the ASR wires with some new sheathing. It's crumbling on those wires only.
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