Dip stick tube removal

[mwaldron]

I am attempting to replace the t-stat in my '93 and made a weak start at it this past weekend. With temperatures rising here in San Anto I need to get my marginal cooling issues resolved before it gets really hot.

Has anyone actually done this, and able to give me pointers on the dipstick tube removal. I spent 3 hours trying to get it dislodged with no success. I did get it to move about 3 inches in the vertical direction with considerable force (much more then I felt should be required) at which point it was going to take what I felt was a damaging level of force to get it to move any further. I already broke the wire tray for the ignition wire crossover, and dipstick tube standoff and don't want to "break" anything else in this process. How long is the section of the tube that is a light press fit through the lower block? Could it be binding because of the shape of it and the way it is routed behind the water pump et al?

Thanks in advance for your insight!

 

[gsxr]

Replacing the t-stat is a real pain, due to limited access on the rear 10mm hex bolt. However, the dipstick tube does not have to be removed, and actually cannot be removed without taking a LOT more parts off the front of the engine. A number of items are in the way (forget which ones exactly) but I wouldn't even attempt to get it out. Just leave it in place and work around it to get the t-stat in & out. Use 1/4" drive tools and/or a flex joint as needed. Even more fun is getting the 90° rubber hose back on!

Side note - drain the block before pulling the thermostat, or you'll dump ~2 quarts of coolant all over the front of the engine when the t-stat comes out. There are two block drains, one on each side, which you access from below. The early style are simple flat plugs (6mm hex?), the late style have nipples which you can slide a hose on to for neat draining. The early style will make an unholy mess when removed. Drain & flush everything, replace the t-stat with the block empty, re-fill with MB antifreeze or Zerex G-05. Ignore the ~16qt fill spec in the manuals; actual is more like 12-13 qts. Best to pre-mix and pour in a 50/50 mix after flushing with water. Make sure you fan feel liquid in the upper radiator hose before starting the engine! The system has to be ~90% full to avoid an air pocket which will cause the temp gauge to shoot towards the red zone ten minutes after the first re-start...

 

[mwaldron]

Thanks Dave,

I'm now expert at the 90 Degree hose R/R, or just lucky.

I battle with the fluid fill every year this time being no different.

It's probably headed for the Indy based upon your input, I've already got enough drywall repair to do already as the result of this round, flung ratchets, sockets et al.

mw

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[Cavanman]

If you are changing the thermostat, make sure you pack some cloth under the thermostat housing and over the crankshaft pulley area.

Apart from stopping any stray coolant getting to the crank sensors, etc. it will also prevent any dropped bolts disappearing from view.

I managed to drop a bolt (the one from the back) and spent about 1.5 hours looking for it in case it landed near the crank pulley and sensor.

When I didn't find it, I found another bolt and after checking it for fit managed to drop it as well. I eventually used a nut on a string to figure out where the bolts had gotten to. As it happens, they fall in behind the alternator where you have to push them upwards because the space is too narrow for them to fall through to the ground.

I recommend it as a way to pass a sub-zero February evening on what should have been a 30 minute job...

 

[gerryvz]

I will tell you that in all of the mechanical work I've ever done in my life on cars, by far the most useful tool in my tool chest is the telescoping magnetic "pickup" item. This tool has literally saved my butt many dozens of times when I've dropped nuts and bolts when removing and installing them.

You can get these handy little buggers at your local Sears Craftsman tool shop. They come in a range of sizes and price points. HIGHLY recommended.

Photos/examples of what I have, below. Sears also sells them with mirrors and lights, but often this makes the tool too large to get into cramped spaces. Price is generally around $5-10 -- the best $10 you will ever spend.

Cheers,
Gerry