Thanks GSXR,
I will search to see how I can procure these diagnostic tools real soon. There's really not much sense in guesswork troubleshooting as I appear to be doing at the moment.
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ECU for M104.996 engine in G320
- Thread starter The G320 Driver
- Start date
I will search to see how I can procure these diagnostic tools real soon. There's really not much sense in guesswork troubleshooting as I appear to be doing at the moment.
Thanks Kiato. Would you mind shading more light on the symptoms you experienced, please? In my case, the vehicle starts to sputter very badly once the Engine speed goes over ~2,500RPM.
I had actually replaced the O2 Sensor but the problem still persists. I could locate only one O2 Sensor on this vehicle, just before the Cat; please advice if there is another one in case the previous owner had made a modification that is not transparent to me.
Greetings All,
So my search for the specific G320 ECU in my region has not yielded any positive fruit.
My G320 came with original VDO ECU Part Number: 019 545 06 32 [08] FD 96W10 / HW 40.95 / SW 44.95
Nevertheless, I have sourced a used VDO ECU for E320 Sedan of 1996 build date which when installed with its accompanying Immobilizer Module was able to start and run the vehicle but with sluggish acceleration and Power. It says it is for a 2.8L 6cyl Engine, I do not know if this is the reason for the poor performance. Part Number: 018 545 17 32 [07] FD 96W07 / HW40.95 / SW 44.95
The FD, HW and SW versions are a very close match to my original G320 ECU, therefore, I want to take the chance and send both to a Programmer over this weekend to see if he could copy the files from my G320 019....ECU and write same into the E320 Sedan 018....ECU in the hopes that it will resolve the issues.
Please let me know if anyone thinks that this is a waste of time.
My G320 ECU
Used E320 Sedan ECU
Just a quick update. I have not succeeded to carry out the above the transformation because the intended ECU Programmer expressed certain concerns about not having all the necessary Tools to accomplish the task on the the HFM ECU derivatives. So the initial appointment was cancelled.
However, I have been referred to another reputable Electrical Technician to have a fresh look at the Wirings, etc. Waiting till the weekend to see.
Note that I drive my vehicle in this present condition, daily within the city limits. It all seem to act nicely as long as I don't push the Engine Speed to over ~2,500RPM into the 3,00RPM territory. Hence, no rapid acceleration!
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Interesting thread. I am in a similar situation. I replaced my M104 2.8L engine on a W202 with an M104 3.2L from a W210. I kept the air intake, throttle body, wiring harness (redone), and camshaft sensor from the 2.8L engine and have been running with the ECU from the 2.8L, but with the camshaft sensor disconnected. The car would crank but not start with the camshaft sensor connected. I thought probably the 2.8L ECU could not make sense of the camshaft position sensor data because of the displacement difference, so I looked for a 3.2L ECU from an E320 (likely from a W124 or earlier W210). This one was Bosch; the 2.8L was VDO. I connected the ECU, and it idles fine, but if you press the accelerator, it cuts off at 2500 rpm, just like yours. Would a throttle/ECU reset help? I read through the thread with great expectations.
Hi, welcome to the thread.
Do you know what year of vehicle your Engine is from? What is the Part number of the ECU you are using? Reason I ask is because, I discovered a few odd things with my 1996 G320
1. With the ECU being a VDO model, any BOSCH Model ECU I have tried always blew a Fuse on the vehicle and there would be no voltage at the Ignition. This made me to suspect that the Wiring Harness for the VDO ECU is inherently different to that for the BOSCH ECU. A wiring diagram of both systems would be of great help.
2. The Throttle Body (ETA) is different from those on earlier year models. The Electrical Connector Plug is right on the Throttle Body while others in earlier year models have a long Pigtail similar to those on W124s. I do not know if they are interchangeable (electrically speaking).
Hurrraaaayyyy!!!!!!!!!!!! The issue has been resolved!!!
I am most happy to express my profound gratitude to the wonderful people in the forum. Your suggestions, ideas, recommendations and all were immensely beneficial and appreciated.
The root cause of the problem was discovered to be due to poor workmanship/ carelessness of whomever had worked on this vehicle prior to my acquiring it. We discovered the following when we dismantled the Transmission from the Engine.
1. One Tooth on the Flywheel that the Crankshaft Position Sensor was supposed to read was found to be bent
2. The Space Washer between the Crankshaft and the Flywheel was missing
Installing a new Flywheel and Space Washer rectified the issues immediately. The engine speed could be raised to 4,000rpm while in park or Neutral without any hesitation. Driving also has become a pleasure.
Thanks so much to everyone.
See a snapshot of the Flywheel Teeth here.
I am most happy to express my profound gratitude to the wonderful people in the forum. Your suggestions, ideas, recommendations and all were immensely beneficial and appreciated.
The root cause of the problem was discovered to be due to poor workmanship/ carelessness of whomever had worked on this vehicle prior to my acquiring it. We discovered the following when we dismantled the Transmission from the Engine.
1. One Tooth on the Flywheel that the Crankshaft Position Sensor was supposed to read was found to be bent
2. The Space Washer between the Crankshaft and the Flywheel was missing
Installing a new Flywheel and Space Washer rectified the issues immediately. The engine speed could be raised to 4,000rpm while in park or Neutral without any hesitation. Driving also has become a pleasure.
Thanks so much to everyone.
See a snapshot of the Flywheel Teeth here.
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Hi there, have you resolved your issues and what was the solution?
In case you have not, I would point out to you that most likely, You can not use the Camshaft Sensor from an earlier model on the newer model M104 without changing the whole Inlet Camshaft itself complete with its corresponding Sprocket.
Firstly, the CKS are different, older version has the Single Pin while the newer version has 3-Pins
Secondly, the "Notch" on the Inlet Camshaft Sprockets that the Sensor reads are totally different, older version has like 1/4" thick Metal Blade while the newer version has like a 1/2" Flat Metal Plate.
Thanks for checking. Initially, I swapped the inlet camshaft on the 3.2L with one from my old 2.8L M104 engine. I could get the engine running with the camshaft sensor connected, but I noticed a loss of torque. I then decided to put the 3.2L camshaft back, but only swapped the sprocket, and it worked. It was compatible with the camshaft sensor without sacrificing torque. However, it still only runs with the VDO 2.8L ECU. If I use the 3.2L Bosch ECU, it goes into limp mode, which I have accepted.
Hello, colleagues!
I have a similar problem with my 1996 G320.
It all started with the fact that when it warmed up to 80 degrees, the car lost power and could not be forced, maximum 1800-2000 rpm and dropped to 1000, you press and hold the gas - it pushes to 2000 and drops, 2000 and drops. I started first with the assembly, then the flow meter, the camshaft sensor, the crankshaft, the lambda probe, the throttle valve, I checked all the vacuum, finally I decided on a computer.
No one wanted to repair it, I had a technician open it on my responsibility and look at it. He opened it, said he saw a few dry solder joints that he soldered, I put it back and now the car starts great and goes straight into emergency mode, can't be forced, that is, it starts, dies at 1100 rpm and as before it goes up to 2000 and falls, pedal to the metal and 2000-1000-2000-1000. I changed the camshaft and crankshaft sensors again. Nothing.
I bought a new (second-hand) computer from S 280, we uploaded the immobilizer and engine software (so I cloned my original one), the car starts great and again the same. Regarding the computer - so the pin assignment on both should be the same, as should the color of the socket (if the original one is white, then the new one should be white too).
So please give me some adequate advice as to what could be the reason why I haven't been able to start it for 5 months.
Thanks to
I have a similar problem with my 1996 G320.
It all started with the fact that when it warmed up to 80 degrees, the car lost power and could not be forced, maximum 1800-2000 rpm and dropped to 1000, you press and hold the gas - it pushes to 2000 and drops, 2000 and drops. I started first with the assembly, then the flow meter, the camshaft sensor, the crankshaft, the lambda probe, the throttle valve, I checked all the vacuum, finally I decided on a computer.
No one wanted to repair it, I had a technician open it on my responsibility and look at it. He opened it, said he saw a few dry solder joints that he soldered, I put it back and now the car starts great and goes straight into emergency mode, can't be forced, that is, it starts, dies at 1100 rpm and as before it goes up to 2000 and falls, pedal to the metal and 2000-1000-2000-1000. I changed the camshaft and crankshaft sensors again. Nothing.
I bought a new (second-hand) computer from S 280, we uploaded the immobilizer and engine software (so I cloned my original one), the car starts great and again the same. Regarding the computer - so the pin assignment on both should be the same, as should the color of the socket (if the original one is white, then the new one should be white too).
So please give me some adequate advice as to what could be the reason why I haven't been able to start it for 5 months.
Thanks to
Hey Svetlio,
welcome on Board.
What was done before this fault, like service etc.
Is there any possibility to read the ecu for fault Codes. If there any faults exists let us know.
What is the mileage.
did you check the cylinder with a endoscope for wear and tear.
What about your engine harness is it in good condition, if there is a short circuit temp. Related on the sensors or wires,
Is the temp reading correct. May there is a piston seizure.
Check the vacuum pump.
Check the camshaft adjustment for functions
Disconnect the sensor plugs for test also the injector plugs for a fail simulation.
Check the fuel pump for proper pressure, replace it if needed, same time the fuel filter. Make sure the fuel tank is breathing properly.
Best Regards
welcome on Board.
What was done before this fault, like service etc.
Is there any possibility to read the ecu for fault Codes. If there any faults exists let us know.
What is the mileage.
did you check the cylinder with a endoscope for wear and tear.
What about your engine harness is it in good condition, if there is a short circuit temp. Related on the sensors or wires,
Is the temp reading correct. May there is a piston seizure.
Check the vacuum pump.
Check the camshaft adjustment for functions
Disconnect the sensor plugs for test also the injector plugs for a fail simulation.
Check the fuel pump for proper pressure, replace it if needed, same time the fuel filter. Make sure the fuel tank is breathing properly.
Best Regards
Hey Svetlio,
Can you please share the ecu number you cold Clone with the 320 ecu. Better both as picture, Is this the same serial nr.? This is very important for some of us. Because there is no more ecu`s for the g320 m104.996 Engine used or any other. Thank you.
Hello Friend,
On a side note, I am presently running the VDO ECU for E320 Sedan of 1996 build date Part #: 018 545 17 32 [07] FD 96W07 / HW40.95 / SW 44.95 with the corresponding DAS Immobilizer Module. It says it is for a 2.8L 6cyl Engine. I have put over 1,000KM on it to date.
My G320 originally came with this VDO ECU Part #: 019 545 06 32 [08] FD 96W10 / HW 40.95 / SW 44.95. I kept this as a spare now.
Used E320 Sedan ECU
My original G320 ECU
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hey,
Can you tell me how this corresponding DAS immobilizer works is it an original set from Sedan? Both Ecu und Immo?
Because I am looking for an Ecu Immo set for spare too. For my G320 too.
I had the issue in the past where I add this tread here to find a solution for the problem, because I know some one who got the same problem too and he can’t find a original ECU to clone it. His G320 is still chilling in the garage.
The 018.... ECU with its corresponding DAS Immobilizer Module were obtained from the same vehicle, E320 Sedan as a set, so no reprogramming nor coding was necessary. I just swapped out my original ones for these and the G320 is happy.
You may recall that I once suggested that to you (see post #20 on this thread) when you were looking for where to reprogram your original 019..... ECU and had found a matching 018.... ECU.
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Hello G320 Driver!
I have checked all the cables, I have replaced all the thermal sensors, basically everything I can think of has been replaced - flow meter, crankshaft and camshaft sensor, thermal sensors, lambda probe, throttle valve new second hand and nothing changes. The diagnostics show that the throttle is sitting at 4.5 degrees and does not change position when gas is applied.
I don't know why I can't upload a photo, but the number of the original computer is VDO 019 545 06 32 (08), FD 95W41, HW 34.95, SW 26.95 and I took it from a S class S280 1996 with number VDO 021 545 68 32 (09), FD 96W14, HW 40.95, SW 44.95 absolutely identical pin arrangement and socket color - white.
On my original computer the number is VDO 019 545 06 32 (08), FD 95V41, HV 34.95, SV 26.95 and I took from S class S280 1996 with number VDO 021 545 68 32 (09), FD 96V14, HV 40.95, SV 44.95 absolutely identical arrangement of pins and color of socket - white. Now yours works with the fuel map of 2.8 liters and for sedan, if you raise the fuel map to 3.2 liters the car will run better, it will have more power.
we also transferred the immobilizer software because the seller didn't keep the car key. Otherwise you take the computer with the key and the little black box which is actually the immobilizer and then you transfer only the fuel card, or you can leave the one that is on the computer but if it is a 2.8 liter you won't have as much traction but it will still work
And is this friend of yours selling his G320?
By the way, here in many places in service stations and my friends who are passionate about the G-class advise me to replace the original computer with a mega squirt or some other tuning electronics. They say that I will solve all my problems now and in the future, since by installing it you are creating a new installation on the car and it is smarter than the current one.
Unfortunately I do not have a programmer that can do any sort of coding on these ECUs. So will be unable to do the Fuel Map codin.
However, would you presume that if I can lay my hands on a VDO 021 545 68 32 (09), [FD 96V14, HV 40.95, SV 44.95] for 3.2Liters Engine with its corresponding DAS Immobilizer Module per your experience, that I will get more joy with the vehicle?
I really will appreciate any insight into the above.
Aah!!! So is this 021.... ECU is coded to the Key too? If so, then I might be out of luck.
Does your G320 have the coded Key Fob? What year is it?
Mine is of the 1996 model year and has the simple metal Key Blade without any Sensor.
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No he is not about to sell it as far I understood he got the first prototype of the g 320 Inline 6 24V engine.
There for he is searching for corresponding Ecu to get it run.
This was also my idea. The problem here in Germany is we can register the cars with 30 years as a Oldtimer . The we pay at least bey the g320 half of the tax. There for it has to be as much as possible in Original condition. There are only some excuses.
Model year 1996 got the Immo implemented in the Ecu too, this is the reason why we got all this problems ones the Ecu fails with the ignition like mine at 2nd & 5th cylinders.
Yeah, I understand the Immobilizer implementation with the ECU for our model year 1996, however, I was wondering about the Key fob that SVetlio mentioned and if there are other 1996 models with the Programmable Keys. Mine uses a regular Metal Key Blade without any sensor.
As a matter of fact, I don't even have the original Mercedes Keyless Remote Entry device, hence I installed an aftermarket Remote Entry system and Alarm unit.
I was also wondering if the 021.... ECU has the requirement for a Programmable Key, if true, then it wouldn't be an easy swap for the vehicles that do not have the programmable Key assembly.
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Hello! If you take the computer with the EZS module, I think it was called (a small black box on the G-class sits next to the computer, and on passenger cars behind the mileage) and the key, you put it in and start it and there is no problem. BUT as far as I know they have different fuel maps, with passenger cars having more horses and fewer newton meters, while the G-class has fewer horses and more newton meters to get you out of the mud. That's the difference, nothing special if you don't drive it off-road, it's not that important.
Mine is August 1996 with an infrared key. If you look at the computer socket, the one that is on the car has 2 larger pins in one corner, independent, this is the immobilizer, this is the easiest way to know if there is an immobilizer or not. I have a computer from 124 without an immobilizer, I put it on an old 91-93 S-Class 3.2 liter and the car starts and runs, but it doesn't work on the G-Class and the socket is black and has a different pinout.
It's the same here, but in order for me to be able to drive it and not have any problems, I'll probably have to install a mega squirter, and I don't really see how that would change the authenticity of the car.
It's not a problem for you, you take a computer from a v124 3.2 or 3.0, install it and drive. You don't have an infrared key with an immobilizer. So this computer that I have for a v124 is perfect for you. Find one from somewhere, install it and drive.
This is the rule it has to be original but I need to figure out how much of it. you can only install some part which is manufactured at least 10 years after your car build not later. As sample 1996-2006 this parts will be fine but if your car is from June 1995 same model you can’t go for the parts from June 2006. It has to be till June 2005 not later
This are some of the rules to get a Oldtimer.
Ok but how is it with the signal for the odometer. They’re coming some information to the odometer some faults with illumination lights. How is this managed by the new gen Ecu?
I already did it doesn’t work.
I am presently running an 018... VDO ECU with the corresponding DAS Immobilizer Module albeit the ECU stating 2.8Liters 6Cylinders on it. The vehicle drives very well but I was curious if one could get more Power as you had highlighted earlier that it would be possible with a 3.2Liters designated ECU.
Unfortunately not, the 1996 model year vehicles are equipped with the DAS Immobilizer Module (Drive Authorization System) that must sync with the ECU before the Engine could run. Hence, any ECU you get must be paired with a corresponding DAS Module unit.
Earlier models such as the 1995 and 1994 do not have such challenge hence they could easily be operated with the more widely available Sedan ECUs, even the BOSCH versions too.
I wanted to know if yours with 021.... ECU part number required the coded Key Fob unit. Mine doesn't have that.
That's very correct. I tried same too without luck.
Also, he BOSCH ECUs always caused a Fuse to trip anytime it was installed in the vehicle.
Mine is April 1996 and has the DAS Immobilizer Module. I was curious if yours also has an additional coded Ignition Key; I know other Mercedes vehicles from ~2000 model years have those.
My Ignition Key is just the simple typical Mercedes Metal Blade without any sensor in it.
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