Hi, I’m changing out the fan clutch on my ‘93 500e, and I’m wondering if anyone has a good way for me to keep the pulley from spinning as I try to break the center 8mm hex bolt free. The last thing I want to do is round that hex head out. Any ideas how to keep that pulley from turning? Thanks!
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Fan clutch removal without factory tools
- Thread starter DL2
- Start date
You can bend a thick welding rod or similar wire into a L-shape.
Try to get the short side of the "L" into one of the holes on the engine-side of the clutch.
Then to hold the clutch with the rod while loosen the bolt.
Try to find a place, were you can lock the welding rod with the engine a bit. This might help you holding the rod.
Not sure if the M119 has a good place for that, but at least it worked on a M104.
If the bolt never was removed, you probably need some lever to get it lose.
Try to get the short side of the "L" into one of the holes on the engine-side of the clutch.
Then to hold the clutch with the rod while loosen the bolt.
Try to find a place, were you can lock the welding rod with the engine a bit. This might help you holding the rod.
Not sure if the M119 has a good place for that, but at least it worked on a M104.
If the bolt never was removed, you probably need some lever to get it lose.
Thanks for the suggestion, but the M 104 must be different. Holding the clutch is not a problem, it spins freely, hence the reason I’m replacing it. The retaining bolt, which holds the fan and clutch assembly to the pulley shaft is what I need to loosen. When I put purchase on the bolt, the pulley slips inside the serpentine belt.
I have a couple MB and BMW clutch wrenches, but there’s nothing to grab onto. The MB clamshell tool looks like it would do the trick, but none of the others.
If you don't have the factory pulley holding tool, try using pliers on the pulley, with a piece of the serpentine belt in place to protect the pulley. Even better if the belt is installed and under tension. You need to be careful not to damage the pulley, but usually this should work, unless the center bolt is insanely tight.
Make sure the bolt head has all debris removed so the 8mm hex driver can fully seat, to avoid stripping the head.
Make sure the bolt head has all debris removed so the 8mm hex driver can fully seat, to avoid stripping the head.
If the belt is installed, press down on it (between two of the large pulleys) with one hand while loosening the fan clutch bolt with the other hand. This should work.
The M104 is different than the M119. The M104 has a hole that a rod is inserted into (a factory tool, which is cheap). The M119 doesn't have this hole. On an old M104 I had, I once used a doubled-up coat hanger that I bent into the shape of the factory tool, and it worked...just barely. Per my HOW-TO on the G-wagen M104, you can use a simple hook tool to hold the pulley from the top, which is super easy (I showed it in the HOW-TO). Again, not applicable for the M119 unfortunately.
You either have to use a factory style "curved" pulley holder tool, or create (as @Glen did) a wrench out of scrap metal to hold the four square-pattern pulley bolts, or use my described method of trying to tension the pulley with pressure on the installed belt.
Good luck !!
The M104 is different than the M119. The M104 has a hole that a rod is inserted into (a factory tool, which is cheap). The M119 doesn't have this hole. On an old M104 I had, I once used a doubled-up coat hanger that I bent into the shape of the factory tool, and it worked...just barely. Per my HOW-TO on the G-wagen M104, you can use a simple hook tool to hold the pulley from the top, which is super easy (I showed it in the HOW-TO). Again, not applicable for the M119 unfortunately.
You either have to use a factory style "curved" pulley holder tool, or create (as @Glen did) a wrench out of scrap metal to hold the four square-pattern pulley bolts, or use my described method of trying to tension the pulley with pressure on the installed belt.
Good luck !!
If you don't have the factory pulley holding tool, try using pliers on the pulley, with a piece of the serpentine belt in place to protect the pulley. Even better if the belt is installed and under tension. You need to be careful not to damage the pulley, but usually this should work, unless the center bolt is insanely tight.
Make sure the bolt head has all debris removed so the 8mm hex driver can fully seat, to avoid stripping the head.
thank you... that was going to be my next effort, and I’m relieved to hear that it was not a crazy idea. Some of my ‘make do’ approaches haven’t always been well considered.
Sorry, my bad!
Belt tension wouldn’t do it, but I found in my tool chest a pipe Vice Grip which worked perfectly. I would recommend it for others without a factory wrench. The notch in the pliers curled around the pulley and held things fast without so much as a Burl on the pulley. Thanks for all your help.
But now due to posts, I’m rethinking my aftermarket clutch.
But now due to posts, I’m rethinking my aftermarket clutch.
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