Heater Hoses both drivers and pasangers sides

[KarlC]

My 1994 E500 Drivers side Heater Hose started to fail yesterday and we cant seam to find the part number.

I would like to replace both the drivers and passengers side at the same time, anyone know the part numbers ?

Here is a photo of the failed Drivers side, note that when we compared the 1994 E500 to the 1992 500E and this hose was NOT the same design.

 

[gsxr]

EPC seems to indicate it may be p/n 124-830-74-96, for chassis as of C096887. Wouldn't hurt to double check though. The part number should be embossed or printed on the old hose somewhere, but it may not be easy to read without removing the hose.

EPC Group 83, subgroup 180, callout 29.

 

[KarlC]

Looks like this could be it then ?

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin...36- from C 096887 E500 124.036- from C 096887

 

[Glen]

Looks like this could be it then ?

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin...36- from C 096887 E500 124.036- from C 096887

Good find, Karl. With that part number (without the M22), you can order it from parts.com and it's cheaper even with shipping costs.

 

[gsxr]

Yep, good chance anyway. Note that Pelican has it for $65 and also $75 - weird. Or you can get it from parts.com for $50:
http://www.parts.com/parts/index.cf...xt=124-830-74-96&action=oePartSearch&siteid=2

BTW - the passenger side hose, from recirc pump to engine block, should be 124-830-54-96... $27 from parts.com:
http://www.parts.com/parts/index.cf...xt=124-830-54-96&action=oePartSearch&siteid=2

 

[KarlC]

Yep, good chance anyway. Note that Pelican has it for $65 and also $75 - weird. Or you can get it from parts.com for $50:
http://www.parts.com/parts/index.cf...xt=124-830-74-96&action=oePartSearch&siteid=2

BTW - the passenger side hose, from recirc pump to engine block, should be 124-830-54-96... $27 from parts.com:
http://www.parts.com/parts/index.cf...xt=124-830-54-96&action=oePartSearch&siteid=2

Dave Pelican is showing 2 different parts, 124-830-74-96 and 124-830-76-96, you can see from the photos of the parts they are different, it looks like my 94 E500 would need the 124-830-74-96 part based on the part photo.

 

[gsxr]

Right... -76-96 is up to chassis C096886, -74-96 is as of chassis C096887.

Since your chassis is C170426, you should use the -74-96 hose.

 

[samiam44]

Dave,

I wouldn't rely on the EPC being accurate here. My 94' the ACC valve the epc was WRONG. So, these hoses being in the same connection area, he needs to go by the heater control valve. Split is earlier than stated in the EPC.
Does it have 3 or 4 nipples? 3 would be the earlier style. I think they redesigned the system to allow by-pass flow with the 4 hose connections.



Michael

 

[KarlC]

I installed the new heater hose on the drives side, its not ez to access the lowest hose, but it doable with care.

Thanks for the help with the part numbers.

Next up is replacing the yellowed overflow tank and then all new antifreeze
.

 

[gsxr]

I installed the new heater hose on the drives side, its not ez to access the lowest hose, but it doable with care. Thanks for the help with the part numbers. Next up is replacing the yellowed overflow tank and then all new antifreeze.

Cool! Some things to keep in mind with the tank replacement & coolant flush:

- Order a new level sender (OE or Hella), and a new cap as well (OE or Reutter)
- Use only MB antifreeze or Zerex G-05. Rumor is that MB no longer sells the yellow stuff and now has only blue juice. (??)
- The factory specs for cooling system capacity is incorrect at ~16 quarts. Actual capacity is approx 12 quarts. Don't use too much antifreeze.

 

[KarlC]

Cool! Some things to keep in mind with the tank replacement & coolant flush:

- Order a new level sender (OE or Hella), and a new cap as well (OE or Reutter) - DONE - The parts are in my garage
- Use only MB antifreeze or Zerex G-05. Rumor is that MB no longer sells the yellow stuff and now has only blue juice. (??) - DONE - Got this at Auto Zone
- The factory specs for cooling system capacity is incorrect at ~16 quarts. Actual capacity is approx 12 quarts. Don't use too much antifreeze. - DONE - I planed a 50/50 water mix, I got 2 gals of Zerex G-05 just in case.

 

[emerydc8]

Were you planning to do the hoses on the passenger side too? I ordered the hoses a while back for both sides, but only did the driver's side because it was leaking at the T. The passenger side seems like it would be more difficult.

 

[gsxr]

- The factory specs for cooling system capacity is incorrect at ~16 quarts. Actual capacity is approx 12 quarts. Don't use too much antifreeze.
- DONE - I planed a 50/50 water mix, I got 2 gals of Zerex G-05 just in case.

Having done this recently... my latest trick is to refill partly into the upper radiator hose. This completely eliminated the air pocket problem I was having trying to fill only via the plastic reservoir. Assuming you have drained the radiator & both block drains, then closed them again:

Premix your coolant and then pour 5 quarts into the upper radiator hose so it goes directly into the engine block. It helps if you have someone hold the radiator hose for you while pouring, but it's not necessary. Carefully re-connect the upper radiator hose to the radiator (no liquid should spill out if you put ONLY five quarts into the empty block) and tighten the clamp. Now pour 4 more quarts into the plastic reservoir. Fill it all the way to the very top and keep topping off until it won't take any more. Now put the cap on & go for a drive. When the engine comes up to temp and the t-stat opens, the level will drop and you can add about 1 more quarts after the system has cooled down. You can wait until the next morning. DO NOT remove the radiator cap with the engine hot... at a minimum wait until the temp gauge is well below 80C. Monitor the coolant level over the next couple hundred miles, you may need to add a little more as things settle out.

I've done this procedure 3 or 4 times now and it works great. Your total refill will probably be 10-11 quarts.

 

[emerydc8]

I can attest to the danger of not filling the heads with coolant and hoping the water pump will get it there before it overheats. I replaced a radiator a few years ago and didn't fill the heads through the upper hose. I started the car and it was running fine for a few minutes. When I went back to look at the temperature gauge it was rapidly approaching the red line.

I read somewhere that this engine is not like the typical American engine when it comes to the operation of the thermostat and coolant flow, so if you don't fill the heads, you cannot expect that the water pump will send water there before it's too late. It was just a matter of luck that I happened to go back and check out the temperature gauge. Otherwise, I suspect I would have done some serious damage.

Do you think a 50%/50% mix is too much coolant? I am running 30%/70% here in the desert and have found that the engine runs much cooler.

 

[Jelmer]

Jon, this sounds to me like there was something else wrong. When we removed my visco we (obviously) lost a lot of water when we removed the radiator. We simply topped it off via the reservoir, squeezed the upper radiator hose a few times, topped it off again, and started the engine. After starting the engine, turn on the heating to full heat. As Dave mentioned, when the engine is running, top it off after a few minutes, rev the engine a bit, and top it off again. After a testdrive it only needed a tiny bit more.

And no, this is not your typical American engine: it's much more advanced

It was just a matter of luck that I happened to go back and check out the temperature gauge

I disagree. If you drain the engine of coolant for whatever reason, fill it back up again *without* measuring how much you put in and HAVE to put it (let's be honest, who does that?), it would be reckless to walk away and think it'll all be fine. Or do you also not check the oil level after changing oil?

 

[emerydc8]

Actually, I was shuttling back and forth between the recovery tank and the oil temperature gauge. The recovery tank and radiator were full before engine start. I had checked the temperature and it was down around 70C. When I walked around to check the recovery tank and back to the gauge it was heading for 120C. This was in a matter of less than a minute. I'm not sure what happened. Do you know if the thermostat will prevent the flow of water into the heads if it is closed on this engine?

With regard to checking the oil level after changing the oil, since I have done over 150 oil changes on my 119 engines (every 2,000 miles), I know that with a new filter, it takes exactly 9.5 quarts to put the oil level right between the marks. So, to answer your question, I usually don't bother checking the dip stick until I've started the engine, let it come up to temperature, and then shut it down for about three minutes. I do verify the oil pressure is normal and I think there is an oil quantity light that comes on if the oil is low, right?

 

[gsxr]

Jon is correct. If you have drained the radiator AND block, you cannot get all 10+ quarts back in to the system via the plastic reservoir. The reservoir will overflow and you can't add any more liquid, leaving an air pocket at the top of the block. The thermostat is designed for the water pump to circulate liquid in the block only and not pull from the radiator until the t-stat starts to open, effectively closing off the circuit. Jelmer did not experience any problems because he did not drain the block, only the radiator. Very different scenario.

I personally use either a 30/70 or 40/60 mix of antifreeze/water, as I don't need freeze protection much below 0°F. Colder climates may require 50/50. I also use a bottle of Red Line Water Wetter (hey, it can't hurt). Warmer climates can use as low as 20/80, which I did when I lived in Sacramento, CA where it never went below freezing, and summer high temps could reach 115°F (46°C). I wouldn't go lower than 20/80 as the antifreeze is needed to act as lubricant for the water pump seals.

Oil: The level sender will turn on the dash light if it senses low oil for more than 60 seconds, AND the oil temp is high enough (i.e., at operating temp). BTW, did you mean 8.5 quarts, not 9.5? I drain & fill my M119's (with a new filter) and only use 2 gallons (8 quarts) of oil, and the level ends up exactly at 50% on the dipstick... halfway between MIN and MAX. Official spec is 8.0 liters (8.45 quarts). If you put in 9.5 quarts the level would likely be at "MAX", if the correct gray-handle dipstick is used. Make sure you are following the MB procedure and keeping the dipstick seated for a few seconds, not just pushing it quickly in & out, as that will result in an inaccurate reading (i.e., overfilling).

 

[J-Sauce]

My car always takes 9-10 quarts of oil as well. I ordered a new dipstick from MB a couple years ago because I was concerned it was not correct, and it was the same length. Ive always wondered what the deal was there.

 

[DrP]

my engine has 8.5 quarts, sharply. After oil change I check and it is exactly on the top of the dipstick mark. 9-10 quarts?...where does that oil go?


Oil: The level sender will turn on the dash light if it senses low oil for more than 60 seconds, AND the oil temp is high enough (i.e., at operating temp).
Yep been there done that, up Cajon @ 110F, that's fun......it means you are approx. 1/2 quart under min. Filling up 1 quart will get you to mid dipstick (in my engine)...I never fill up more than 1 quart at a time as I was told overfilling is more dangerous (damaging gaskets) than underfilling

I once forgot to put the cap back on the radiator reservoir after checking, yes in less than a min you are @ 120F...I filled water back in (slowly)...the engine did not crack

 

[gsxr]

My car always takes 9-10 quarts of oil as well. I ordered a new dipstick from MB a couple years ago because I was concerned it was not correct, and it was the same length. Ive always wondered what the deal was there.

Could be the tube isn't fully seated...? 9-10 quarts is WAY high.

:!:

 

[emerydc8]

Dave, I jack the car up from the driver's side which tilts the pan toward the drain plug. Then I pull the plug and remove the filter and let it drain for about 20 minutes, until nothing is coming out. I don't know if it makes a difference but if you are using one of those devices to suck it out from the top maybe that's the reason you require less.

Thanks for clearing up the issue with the thermostat. I knew it was different than your typical American V-8 but wasn't sure how.

 

[gsxr]

I've tilted the car to get more oil out and at most it's another 1/2 quart (probably less). Anything in the 9.0-9.5 qt range seems abnormally high, as none of my M119's ever use more than 8.0 at change time. I'd expect 9.0 would put it at the MAX mark. Bizzare.

BTW, the Topsider devices sometimes can remove more oil as the tube can be lower than the drain plug opening. I don't use these vacuum extraction devices as I prefer to remove the lower panel and do a visual inspection of things. I hear they work pretty well though.

 

[emerydc8]

That's a mystery. I don't suppose the 500E has a different oil pan than my E420, does it? Is there something in the pan area that takes up more room on the 500E? In any case, I agree with you on getting under there to do a visual inspection while doing an oil change. Better to know about it early than to wait until you are on the road.

 

[KarlC]

I thought that I should updated you all .....

I replaced my cracked heater hose, that was a pain as its hard to get to some of the ends, and updated some of the cooling system. I don't like the dark yellow overflow tank so I replaced it the level sender, cap overflow hose and all new Zerex G-05 antifreeze. When doing all of this I noticed that one of the wires on the level sender was disconnected, Glen was nice enuf to solder it all back together, now it as good as new and the light on my dash is working as it should be ! THANK GLEN !!

BEFORE..... (sellers overdone shiny stuff photo)

AFTER.....

 

[emerydc8]

As a precaution, I just replaced the driver's side heater hose on my 95 E420. The part is the same for the 500E and the E420. The hose that fit my car has three ends. There is an earlier hose for vehicles up to chassis number C096886, but since mine is a 1995 it took the newer hose. It cost me $43.50. The hardest end to access is behind the engine and firewall. It goes to a connecting pipe that runs horizontally across the engine bay to the other side (pic). The next difficult end goes right to the back of the engine block, but if you remove some of the firewall trim it is still pretty easy to get to.

Since this has already been discussed, I'll just throw in my 2 cents along with some pictures:

It took me about an hour and I took my time. There are three different size hose clamps for the three ends. I accessed the hose clamp for the bottom hose behind the firewall with a long 1/4"-drive extension (at least 14" long). I applied a small coating of WD40 to the ends of the new hose so they slipped on easily.

It will look impossible to get to the lower hose going to the horizontal connecting pipe, but if you feel for it without looking (you won't be able to see anything with your arm in the way) you should be able to twist it off.

 

[gerryvz]

I thought that I should updated you all .....

I replaced my cracked heater hose, that was a pain as its hard to get to some of the ends, and updated some of the cooling system. I don't like the dark yellow overflow tank so I replaced it the level sender, cap overflow hose and all new Zerex G-05 antifreeze. When doing all of this I noticed that one of the wires on the level sender was disconnected, Glen was nice enuf to solder it all back together, now it as good as new and the light on my dash is working as it should be ! THANK GLEN !!

BEFORE..... (sellers overdone shiny stuff photo)

Wow, that's almost GVZ-level Bro-juice !!!

 

[8899]

Karl and Jon D -

I too have replaced the driver-side heater hose but have yet to replace the passenger-side hose from the back of the engine to the recirculating pump. Have either of you replaced this hose? If not, why not? If so, any tips/tricks? TIA.

 

[emerydc8]

Hi Greg,

I did replace that hose on the passenger side from the engine block to the recirc pump. It had sprung a leak from rubbing against the air filter mount stud as you can see from the picture.

The part was 124 830 59 96. It has been a while since I did it, but I remember I had to access the bottom hose clamp from behind the engine standing on the drivers side with two, long 1/4" drive extensions (pics). IIRC, it took a while and was a bit difficult to get the hose onto the nipple coming out of the block and to perfectly position the hose clamp so I could reach it from across the engine, but it wasn't a killer job. I can't remember, but I might have even put a drop of super glue on the hose clamp down there just to keep it from shifting as I tried to place my socket over it to tighten it. I used some Vaseline on the hose so it would slip over the nipple easily. Getting to the side going to the recirc pump was a non-issue.


The hose is listed as part #168 in the diagram I posted above, but the diagram looks nothing like the real hose, as you can see for yourself.

 

[e500.org]

Thanks to all the contributors on this post - it has been massively helpful in helping me to find the right heater hoses in my 500E - the EPC is a nightmare! Attached is a video I made yesterday for Joe (JC220) and it seems like the passenger side heater hose is to blame - it is slightly wet as per the video. I have tried to remove it but limited resources don't allow me so this will be a job for the shop. I have checked my EPC and I will be ordering the following for my 500E:

Passenger side hose A1248305496
Drivers side hose (with heated wiper system) A1248307696

I have also ordered new clamps as the clamp is very rusty (I suspect therefore it has been leaking/seeping for a while)

The video after some hard driving is as follows - outside temperature around 49C:

[video=youtube_share;t6-mSIYvgBU]

Cheers,
Bill