How do you replace the ignition coils on 400E

[Trae]

However, pride comes before the fall.

I wanted my wife to drive our foster child to the doctor in my 93' that I thought I had fixed with new coils and EZL.

She turned the ignition key and . . . nothing! Not a buzzer, light, or anything.

Looks like I'll be working on a battery or alternator today.

 

[Glen]

However, pride comes before the fall.

I wanted my wife to drive our foster child to the doctor in my 93' that I thought I had fixed with new coils and EZL.

She turned the ignition key and . . . nothing! Not a buzzer, light, or anything.

Looks like I'll be working on a battery or alternator today.

Ah, the joys of owning a 20+ year old car

 

[Klink]

However, pride comes before the fall.

I wanted my wife to drive our foster child to the doctor in my 93' that I thought I had fixed with new coils and EZL.

She turned the ignition key and . . . nothing! Not a buzzer, light, or anything.

Looks like I'll be working on a battery or alternator today.

Now you feel just like a professional technician. That's what happens with cars all day long, and everyone thinks it's all related to "what you just did" and it almost never is. Robert Pirsig said "On any repair job, ego comes in for rough treatment" Endlessly true, that...

 

[Trae]

Well, that was embarrassing.

I forgot to tighten the negative battery cable after replacing my coils and EZL!

Everything's good now.

I am learning that, for me (because I am a novice), most things are tied to what I just did.

You know the feeling of sabotaging yourself.

The last three problems have been VERY easy fixes that I tried to make difficult by going too deep into the system.

 

[nocfn]

Btdt Trae, we all have!

 

[Klink]

Well, that was embarrassing.

I forgot to tighten the negative battery cable after replacing my coils and EZL!

Everything's good now.

I am learning that, for me (because I am a novice), most things are tied to what I just did.

You know the feeling of sabotaging yourself.

The last three problems have been VERY easy fixes that I tried to make difficult by going too deep into the system.

Well, in this case I was wrong. It was related to your work. However, the great thing is that this also perfectly explains the initial problem that you had right after you installed the replacement ignition unit (calling to mind the dreaded phrase, "shortly after takeoff"). You no longer need to harbor that tiny lurking bit of fear, if you were. All's well that ends well, Captain...

 

[gsxr]

Still need a post-mortem on the suspect EZL!

 

[Klink]

Robert Pirsig said "On any repair job, ego comes in for rough treatment" Endlessly true, that...

Well, that was embarrassing.

See. So true...

 

[Trae]

Attention:

Post -mortem report.

One, half dead EZL!

When hooked up to either car, only fires on the left four cylinders.

I will ship this EZL to anyone who wants it.

It is, after all, "the first "intermittent" EZL that has been spotted in the wild."

Intermittent is really not this EZL. I would classify it as half dead, or on the bright side, half alive.

 

[Klink]

Attention:

Post -mortem report.

One, half dead EZL!

When hooked up to either car, only fires on the left four cylinders.

I will ship this EZL to anyone who wants it.

It is, after all, "the first "intermittent" EZL that has been spotted in the wild."

Intermittent is really not this EZL. I would classify it as half dead, or on the bright side, half alive.

No, it isn't intermittent at all. It is full time Tango Uniform / DBU (dun blowed up). It is a classic EZL failure scenario...

 

[gsxr]

Glad you confirmed it 100%, Trae. No point in keeping that one as a spare, eh?

 

[gerryvz]

Mine died a half-death back in early 2009. I kept it around for a couple of years, then finally tossed it. Should have shipped it to GSXR as a "gift".

 

[MY911S]

I just finished replacing my 2 ignition coils on my 400E last night. Took me about 2 hours. Most of the time was manhandling those two plastic coil covers. There's just not enough space to easily pull those things off so it takes a lot of finaggling to get those off. Just an FYI, I did not need to remove the headlight and did not see any advantage space wise had the headlight been removed. The headlight was not in the way during any part of the procedure. The 500E may be different.

First, remove the long air hoses and the front engine top cover and the distributor cap plastic housing. Then disconnect the air sensor from the headlamp plastic cover. I replaced my air sensor with a new one. To remove the sensor from the housing, use a 90 degree needle nose plier, push down on the two ends of the metal tab and then simultaneously pull the tab from underneath the sensor. The sensor then pops out. I noticed on mine, the plastic tabs broke due to age and the foam washer was also deteriorated to nothing.

Then lift the tabs at the bottom of the headlamp cover and lift up the plastic cover. Make note of the ignition wires. The longest one goes to the right coil from the passenger side distributor cap and the shortest wire goes from the driver side distributor cap to the left coil. I removed the left coil first. The plastic coil cover needs to come off. Pry open the end where the wire goes in. Just use a flat tipped screwdriver to pry it open. Then pop off the wire from the coil. Then separate the plastic cover from the wire and jigger it out. I forgot how I got it out but I turned it around, upside down, turned it around at various angles and finally it will come out. Then move the wire out of the way. 2 10mm nuts and bolts hold the coil to the housing. For the left coil, the 2 nuts and bolts are located on the left side facing the engine. Remove the first bolt and nut closest to the headlight using a rachet. Then to get to the second nut and bolt, you will need an open ended wrench as the nut touches a hose. You will need to keep a finger on the bolts to completely remove the nuts. Then there is an 8mm and 10mm nut that holds the wiring to the coil. Be careful not to lose the washers. Then remove the coil.

For the right side coil, the 2 nuts and bolts are located on the top. The first bolt and nut is very easy to remove. The second one is located toward the fender and access is very limited. Remove the 13mm bolt that holds the horn to the ABS housing and this will give you a lot more room. Then, using either a 10mm crows foot or a very tiny 10mm open ended wrench, undo the nut.

My right coil had been replaced at some point previously but the left coil was still the original. Installation is the reverse and goes much more quickly. Sorry that I don't have pics. I was wanting to take some but it was so damn hot and I really wanted to get this thing done quickly before night fall.

Howdy resurfacing this. This sensor looks like a pain to remove. I have to purchase a 90 degree pliers it seems.

replaced my air sensor with a new one. To remove the sensor from the housing, use a 90 degree needle nose plier, push down on the two ends of the metal tab and then simultaneously pull the tab from underneath the sensor. The sensor then pops out

 

[gsxr]

Pull the plastic assembly out of the car for easier access. Should be straightforward on the workbench to extract the clip and replace the sensor.

FWIW... the IAT sensor is a rare failure, IMO, and typically won't cause any major engine/driveability issues. But, a new one never hurts.

 

[a777fan]

Yeah. Unhook the wiring harness from the sensor, remove the cover from behind the headlight which it is attached to and move to a workbench. Its a piece of cake.

 

[mrindiafromuk]

Quick question and I might have missed this in the thread. Are the ignition coils the same for years and variants of 500E. I am guessing because mine is a German version with no airbags or check engine light, it wont be different

 

[gsxr]

Quick question and I might have missed this in the thread. Are the ignition coils the same for years and variants of 500E. I am guessing because mine is a German version with no airbags or check engine light, it wont be different

Very early cars (1990, early 1991) had different coils/EZL. Coils are the same for all years after early/mid 1991 production, worldwide. All North American spec models are in the later category.

 

[mrindiafromuk]

Very early cars (1990, early 1991) had different coils/EZL. Coils are the same for all years after early/mid 1991 production, worldwide. All North American spec models are in the later category.

ok, since mine is 1991, I will probably pull the old coils first . I get a random mis at odd times and sometimes it does not fire straight away, one in every 20 starts. I have changed all plug leads and cap, so i am guessing my coils have started their journey to the graveyard

 

[gsxr]

ok, since mine is 1991, I will probably pull the old coils first .

Your car is later 1991 production, it uses the "standard" coils found on 1992-1995 production.

I get a random mis at odd times and sometimes it does not fire straight away, one in every 20 starts. I have changed all plug leads and cap, so i am guessing my coils have started their journey to the graveyard

What spark plugs are installed, and what are they gapped at?
What brand caps/rotors/wires were installed?
Have you added the additional vent slots to the new caps?
Have oil leaks been 100% eliminated from the cam advance solenoids? ("No drips on the floor" is not a valid test, btw.)

Not firing / starting immediately, especially with the engine warm, is typically a failing fuel pressure regulator at the fuel rail.

New coils won't hurt, but also are unlikely to cure the problems above. You might want to start a new thread in the Diagnostics subforum.

 

[mrindiafromuk]

Your car is later 1991 production, it uses the "standard" coils found on 1992-1995 production.



What spark plugs are installed, and what are they gapped at?
What brand caps/rotors/wires were installed?
Have you added the additional vent slots to the new caps?
Have oil leaks been 100% eliminated from the cam advance solenoids? ("No drips on the floor" is not a valid test, btw.)

Not firing / starting immediately, especially with the engine warm, is typically a failing fuel pressure regulator at the fuel rail.

New coils won't hurt, but also are unlikely to cure the problems above. You might want to start a new thread in the Diagnostics subforum.

Interesting, had spark plugs. cap, rotor wires changed when I had work done on transmission. the cap was corroded. I also had read engine oil seals done. There is no leaks right now anywhere. Not firing / starting immediately for sure very random, but also the engine will mis randomly when idling but no with no regularity. I will start a new thread.