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FYI HOW-TO: Checking DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) on the 500E/E500

gsxr

.036 Hoonigan™, E500E Boffin, @DITOG
Staff member
UPDATE: To buy a pre-built code reader, click here (NLA by 2023) or click here (still available in 2023) for an affordable one from eBay. If you do not have a "breakout box", make sure you select the type of reader with the small 1mm pins, i.e. for 400E, not the type with the large 4mm pins. A breakout box is highly recommended... this has numbered 4mm sockets, makes it much easier to use the code reader. The breakout box is $300+ from Mercedes as of early 2014, but clones are available from Chinese sellers on eBay for ~$35 delivered (click here). If you get the breakout box, make sure to get a reader with 4mm plugs. Remember to discard the code charts that come with the reader, and ONLY use the PDF file attached below!


There are a total of eight different computer modules used in most USA-spec 500E/E500 models (and also the 400E/E420). Codes are available from all eight modules, each module must be checked separately, and after reading codes, each module must have the codes cleared separately. Six modules are for engine/chassis management, one is for the SRS (airbags), and one for HVAC (climate control). Euro-spec cars may have additional modules (i.e. for the IRCL remote lock system), and Euro-spec cars will not have either a CEL (Check Engine Light) on the instrument cluster nor a DM (Diagnostic Module). The CEL and DM are USA-specific items.

All US-spec cars except some very early build 1992 models will have a CEL. The CEL will only turn on if there are emissions-related faults. When the CEL turns on, this indicates there is at least one code present on the DM. There can still be codes on the DM even with the CEL not on, but the reverse is not possible... if the CEL is on, there has to be at least one DTC on the DM. Checking and clearing codes on the DM does not check or clear codes on any other module, the others all must be checked (and cleared) separately! Most of the common error codes on the other modules will not trigger a CEL or any DM (emissions) codes. Do not think that just because your CEL is not on, there are no codes present.

For basic code checking, a hand-held blink code reader is required. The blink codes are also known as "analog" codes. US cars with a CEL and DM will also have a built-in button and LED in front of the CAN box; however this button+LED only will display codes from the DM. You still need the hand-held blinker box to check all the other modules. After checking all codes, clear all the codes, and check again frequently after driving the car to see which codes return quickly. Codes which come back right away indicate a definite problem that should be corrected. Intermittent codes may or may not be a problem; there are some which are known to occur occasionally that are not a concern (example: the "bad fuse" codes on the Basic Module, when the fuses are all ok).

There is also the capability to check the codes using a digital scanner, like the factory SDS (Star Diagnostic System). Digital communication is much faster than counting analog blinks. And, there is live data available as well, for advanced troubleshooting. The live data may not be of much help to a DIY mechanic; you need to understand the data you are looking at, otherwise it's just gibberish.

Both the analog blink code reader and the digital scanners connect at the same place, the 38-pin diagnostic port under the round cap on the CAN box, on the passenger side of the engine compartment, near the base of the windshield.

Please see the attached PDF documents for more details on how to connect the blink code reader, check and clear codes, and translate the code numbers into a fault description.

If you have not checked codes in a long time, write down all the codes present, then clear ALL of those codes. Now drive the car for a few days (or longer) and check the codes again. Any codes which re-appear quickly are the ones to be concerned about.

Only one module (E-GAS, for the electronic throttle actuator) has more digital DTC's than analog. This means that on the E-GAS module, a particular analog code can have several different meanings, and only a digital scanner can pinpoint the specific meaning. See screen shot below. All the other modules have the same codes for both analog and digital. This shows the code list for the E-GAS module for analog blink code #2. Note that ALL of the listed errors are possible for analog code #2. The three-digit digital code is somewhat more specific; however this still does not pinpoint an exact fault in all cases (except for 002 and 009, which each have only a single fault).

EA_pin7_code_002.jpg

:cel:
 

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Fantastic write up! I am going to check each individual module when I get the chance. If I get one blink on each module, everything should be good. Otherwise, I may be opening up all kinds of "Pandora boxes" to be worked out.

Here's hoping for the best. I'll let you all know what I find.
 
Thanks, Dave, for taking the time to post this excellent but succinct information. I wasn't aware of the benefits of a digital scan tool. Now I understand the advantage with regard to the ETA.
 
I misread. If I get code #2 on the E-GAS, for the electronic throttle actuator, do I then need a digital scanner? All I have is the blink code scanner.
 
A blink code 2 just means that you have a lot more investigative work to do, as opposed to the more specific 3-digit codes that are available via digital scanner. The blink code (in this specific instance) is just quite a bit less specific. Generally based on the symptoms of the issue, you can determine what the problem is without methodically having to go through each cause as listed in the chart above.

Even with the digital codes, where most of them have multiple meanings ... you've got additional detective work to do...

Cheers,
Gerry
 
Thanks for your help. I will check codes and play detective as soon as I get my blink code reader back from a friend. Hopefully, there will be NO codes to investigate.
Just think of all the "diagnostic fees" that you, Dave and others has saved us!!!:thankyou:
 
For all you first timers out there (like me), here is a photo of where CAN box is and for those of you with Check Engine Light (CEL), where the DM button and LED are. Remember the DM button and LED is only for the DM module (pin 19) in the 38 pin breakout box.

Photos from a 1994 USA E500
 

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lets not forget the orientation of the pins on the car are different than the pins in the picture....:watchdrama:
 
Re: M119 chokes at 4250 rpm..? - Updated..codes pulled..

Is it normal to hear a buzzing sound under the air box when searching for codes?
 
I know I'm a perpetual necro poster, but is this for real?


1698040009552.png

If you look at it, it says 1691 sold, at $777 a piece? $1.3M? Why doesn't anybody just build 'em and retire?
 
I know I'm a perpetual necro poster, but is this for real?

If you look at it, it says 1691 sold, at $777 a piece? $1.3M? Why doesn't anybody just build 'em and retire?
It's only partially for real. Yes, they have sold 1,691 but not for $777. Some sellers will increase the price to stupid levels (like, 20x normal) when they are out of stock, instead of ending the listing. Note it says "Limited quantity available". When they get inventory again, the price will go back to normal. I don't understand the logic behind this.

eBay used to show individual sales / dates / sale prices for listings like this with multiple quantities, but something changed in the past year or two and you can't view details anymore, which is annoying. However, feedback will show recent sales and sale prices... these normally go for $30.

It does look like some sucker paid $321 (!!!!!!!) which may have resulted in the increase to $777. It also appears there have been no sales (at least, zero feedbacks) in over a year.

:yayo:

1698069797518.png
 
I'm going to make one or get a $30 one to run codes since I never have. I didn't know until recently that only emissions based codes and not codes from pins 8 or 14 were included.
 
Here's one for $35. Discard the included code translation documents and use the PDF's from W124performance instead.


Seller: https://www.ebay.com/usr/capital_auto

s-l1600.jpg
 
Here's one for $35. Discard the included code translation documents and use the PDF's from W124performance instead.


Seller: https://www.ebay.com/usr/capital_auto

View attachment 176075
For example, I'm on a code due to non working cruise control. If it is the brake switch, or the VSS sensor behind the dash, or cruise switch, or ETA, etc..... do I have to clear the code after the component is replaced? In other words, let's say I threw in a new brake switch which is the source of the problem. Would it now just work after replacement real time or does the error code prevent it from working until both code and failed component are replaced?
 
The fault code will not prevent the component from working - if you replace faulty parts, the system should work immediately (in this case, cruise control).

However, the code will not clear itself, it must be manually cleared.
 
I couldn't find an answer to this in the instruction I have reviewed. When clearing codes with a $40 blink code reader (which I have), must the ignition switch be cycled off and back to on after each code is cleared? After each time I switch to a different subsystem pin?

Thanks in advance.
 
I couldn't find an answer to this in the instruction I have reviewed. When clearing codes with a $40 blink code reader (which I have), must the ignition switch be cycled off and back to on after each code is cleared? After each time I switch to a different subsystem pin?
Nope, the ignition does not need to be switched off after each code is cleared. Or after you switch to a different pin. You should be able to continue clearing until the module shows 1 blink.

The exception is the DM (Diagnostic Module), pin #19... this one is finicky and may require an engine start after clearing, before it will show 1 blink / no faults. Some 92-93 cars without CEL do not have the DM.

:cel:
 
I always cycle the ignition switch off for 5-10 seconds, then back on again, between pins after I clear codes.
 
Looks like the PDF containing the codes and their meanings is no longer attached. Can someone repost it? Thanks!
 

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