ignition module

[henboy1]

I also purchased a parts car to go with this.The parts car is a 94 with ASR.
On the running car, I have a slow/late pedal response.The car runs like it's on 4 cylinders.I have had the car for about 3 weeks and I have done some research.The pedal travel is half way before it moves forward and after 30mph, it is fine.I did a fuel pressure test and I am getting 55 on idle and 68 on rev.There is no miss when idling.When I put the car in gear, the rpms drop to around 400 and almost tries to die.From idle to rev, the response is also late/lagging.I went ahead and changed the Egas modulator, cleaned the MASS sensor , EZL(ignition control module )and cleaned the intake with acetone.Not sure if this could be tune up related because I am not getting any miss or shake from a car that needs a tune up.
I manually counted the blinks from the diag post and I am getting codes 6,7 and 15.please advice
1 No Faults in System -
2 Heated oxygen sensor inoperative Test LH-SFI unit
3 Lambda control inoperative Test LH-SFI unit
4 Air injection inoperative Test LH-SFI unit
5 Exhaust gas recirculation inoperative Test LH-SFI unit
6 Idle speed control inoperative Test electronic accelerator
7 Ignition system defective Test distributor igntion system
8 Engine coolant temperature sensor, open/short Test LH-SFI unit
9 Intake air temperature sensor, open/short Test LH-SFI unit
10 Voltage at mass air flow sensor too high/low Test LH-SFI unit
11 TN-signal (rpm) at LH-SFI control module (N3/1) defective Test LH-SFI unit
12 Heated oxygen sensor heater, open/short circuit Test LH-SFI unit
13 Camshaft position sensor signal of ignition control module (N1/3) defective Test LH-SFI unit
14 Intake manifold pressure at start in N1/3 too low/high Test LH-SFI unit
15 Wide open throttle information defective Test LH-SFI unit
16 Closed throttle position information defective Test electronic accelerator
17 Data exchange malfunction between individual control modules Test DM Step: 7.0
18 Adjustable camshaft timing solenoid, open/short circuit Test LH-SFI unit
19 Fuel injectors open/short or self-adaptation in LH-SFI control module (N3/1) at limit Test LH-SFI unit and reset adaptation to mean value
20 Speed signal not present Test electronic accelerator

 

[henboy1]

slow /late pedal response.Runs like it's on the 4 cylinders but has no miss.When I shift in drive the RPMS drops very low with vibration.When idling there is no miss.Initial take off is slow until 30 mph.
55 on fuel pressure test.The partrs I replaced are from a parts car with ASR.
Replaced the EGAS modulator,EZL fuel pressure regulator and still the same problem
I am getting code 6, 7 and 15 on the flashes.Any help ?Thx

 

[gsxr]

You are only viewing codes from the Diagnostic Module, which is the watchdog module for the other 5 powertrain computers.

You'll need to buy or build a code reader to check codes on all the other modules, clear all codes, run the engine and see which codes return. Click here for details. Click here for the full code list for the 140 chassis.

If the engine is running on 4 cylinders, most likely one distributor is not firing, you'll need to figure out why. Could be the cap/rotor/coil/wire, or a bad EZL.

 

[henboy1]

You are only viewing codes from the Diagnostic Module, which is the watchdog module for the other 5 powertrain computers.

You'll need to buy or build a code reader to check codes on all the other modules, clear all codes, run the engine and see which codes return. Click here for details. Click here for the full code list for the 140 chassis.

If the engine is running on 4 cylinders, most likely one distributor is not firing, you'll need to figure out why. Could be the cap/rotor/coil/wire, or a bad EZL.

Do the local parts store have this device?Auozone or napa have this?I would hate to have to order

 

[sheward]

The initial description of the problem makes me think the car is in limp mode.

 

[gsxr]

Do the local parts store have this device?Auozone or napa have this?I would hate to have to order

NO, the FLAPS/McParts will not have anything like this OBD-1 blink code reader. You must build one or buy one (about $40 on eBay, half that to make your own). Details are at the link in my previous post to the De-Coding forum, read the Sticky threads. All the information is posted.

NOTE: The second post said that parts were sourced from a car with ASR. The T/LLR module cannot be replaced with an E-GAS module, they are not the same. Ditto for the ETA (throttle body / actuator), and ABS or ASR module - these are not interchangeable. The EZL, LH, and some other modules can be swapped between cars but not anything related to throttle control or traction control.

The initial description of the problem makes me think the car is in limp mode.

If the car had ASR, I'd suspect that too... but he said it's a non-ASR vehicle. Also, limp mode will not cause ignition misfiring.

 

[henboy1]

NO, the FLAPS/McParts will not have anything like this OBD-1 blink code reader. You must build one or buy one (about $40 on eBay, half that to make your own). Details are at the link in my previous post to the De-Coding forum, read the Sticky threads. All the information is posted.

NOTE: The second post said that parts were sourced from a car with ASR. The T/LLR module cannot be replaced with an E-GAS module, they are not the same. Ditto for the ETA (throttle body / actuator), and ABS or ASR module - these are not interchangeable. The EZL, LH, and some other modules can be swapped between cars but not anything related to throttle control or traction control.



If the car had ASR, I'd suspect that too... but he said it's a non-ASR vehicle. Also, limp mode will not cause ignition misfiring.

Did you say the Egas module from an ASR will not work on a non ASR?it's working fine.The same symptoms.the part #s are different tho.The EZL are the same part #s.I think with the Egas the trouble shooting in the Star software may not read certain non interchangeable parts.I read somewhere online.Has anyone contacted Victor from restore your mercedes online?He doesn't respond to anything but makes youtube videos.

 

[henboy1]

NO, the FLAPS/McParts will not have anything like this OBD-1 blink code reader. You must build one or buy one (about $40 on eBay, half that to make your own). Details are at the link in my previous post to the De-Coding forum, read the Sticky threads. All the information is posted.

NOTE: The second post said that parts were sourced from a car with ASR. The T/LLR module cannot be replaced with an E-GAS module, they are not the same. Ditto for the ETA (throttle body / actuator), and ABS or ASR module - these are not interchangeable. The EZL, LH, and some other modules can be swapped between cars but not anything related to throttle control or traction control.



If the car had ASR, I'd suspect that too... but he said it's a non-ASR vehicle. Also, limp mode will not cause ignition misfiring.

No ASR for the running car. The parts car has ASR. I have been changing few parts.Wondering if the wiring harness and throttle body is the same

 

[henboy1]

The initial description of the problem makes me think the car is in limp mode.

Not sure but I can get up to 70mph eventually

 

[henboy1]

Guys , all this is new to me.Just purchased the vehicle 2 weeks ago.It had been siting for about 4 years and paid only $700.Bad gas everything.Finally got it running and dealing with this.It was a great idea to get the parts car for $300(ASR).I havjt cranked up the parts car but they said the timing chain was making noise etc..
I am a Toyota /Lexus guys who always wanted a w140.I gave up on the idea 8 yrs ago due to the maintenance.This $700 buy was an opportunity. Although I dont have a diag code reader , I am ready to try one more possible fix from the parts car........................cap and rotor .Then on to plug and wires.
Al this technology is new to me.My 1995 LS is not as complicated as this and I have had it for 17 yrs.For example, when the ignitor goes out on the LS, it will not crank.If the plugs , cap or rotors are bad , it will miss and there will be a shake.if the MASS sensor goes bad the idle goes very low on initial start up.The point is..................... I will be very shocked, if cap and rotor fixes this issue.Totally different symptoms for a Lexus.

 

[henboy1]

Wow .Look what response I found from 16 yrs ago in a thread
I scanned your woes, (the tecnical director at the MB magazine "STAR" did not have anything good to say about K&N and the oiling of the sensor) PLEASE leave your comments that for another thread.
I suggest you check your rotors and caps. My 500 was hesitating on acceleration on occasion but would run fine after getting up to speed. They pulled of one of the caps and the contacts were green with corrosion and burning. I definately would not buy them at your local MB you will be shocked. You need get rotors, gasket, and cap there are two one each on on each side.

 

[gsxr]

Did you say the Egas module from an ASR will not work on a non ASR?it's working fine.The same symptoms.the part #s are different tho.The EZL are the same part #s.I think with the Egas the trouble shooting in the Star software may not read certain non interchangeable parts.

The E-GAS module will not work properly in a non-ASR car. There will be no idle speed control and no cruise control, and possibly other issues. The engine will start and the car may drive, but it won't drive correctly.

No ASR for the running car. The parts car has ASR. I have been changing few parts.Wondering if the wiring harness and throttle body is the same

The upper engine wiring harness is the same between cars. The throttle body (ETA) is NOT the same and cannot be interchanged.

Guys , all this is new to me.Just purchased the vehicle 2 weeks ago.It had been siting for about 4 years and paid only $700.Bad gas everything.Finally got it running and dealing with this.It was a great idea to get the parts car for $300(ASR).I havjt cranked up the parts car but they said the timing chain was making noise etc..
I am a Toyota /Lexus guys who always wanted a w140. ... All this technology is new to me.

These systems are complex, but there is a TON of information on this forum for troubleshooting.

It would help if you clearly spelled out the exact symptoms. Running on 4 cylinders is almost certainly an ignition fault. Are there any warning lights on in the instrument cluster? Have you verified the throttle cable is adjusted correctly? Does it ever run smoothly on all 8 cylinders? Etc.

 

[henboy1]

The E-GAS module will not work properly in a non-ASR car. There will be no idle speed control and no cruise control, and possibly other issues. The engine will start and the car may drive, but it won't drive correctly.



The upper engine wiring harness is the same between cars. The throttle body (ETA) is NOT the same and cannot be interchanged.



These systems are complex, but there is a TON of information on this forum for troubleshooting.

It would help if you clearly spelled out the exact symptoms. Running on 4 cylinders is almost certainly an ignition fault. Are there any warning lights on in the instrument cluster? Have you verified the throttle cable is adjusted correctly? Does it ever run smoothly on all 8 cylinders? Etc.

Exact symptom:
.Crank the car and the idle is so low the car tries to shut off until raise the idle for about 30 sec to a minute.It idles normal when it warms up.Put the car in drive, the idle dips down to around 500 .At 500rpm, in drive the engine is vibrating.Hit the throttle with a half way pedal travel, the car starts moving (no vibration from engine) .At this point , it is slowly working its way until I get to around 40mph , then it drives normal with a hard shift to second.Not concerned about the hard shift, I will adjust the modulator later on.I will get the code reader this week, but I need to keep at it while I have a parts car.Like I said I will report back in 2 days after I change the cap and rotors.Yes, there is a ton of info.I cant go further until I get the code reader

 

[TerryA]

@henboy, You definitely need new caps, rotors and the insulator shield X 2 sets. Don’t waste your money on cheap parts from Autozone and similar places.

Bite the bullet and purchase quality parts from Mercedes or other sources that can be found on this website.

Secondly, Any advice you get from @gsxr, take it seriously. He is the most knowledgeable guy on W124 - M119 V8s you will find on this site or any other.

You won’t do better anywhere else.

Just Saying

 

[henboy1]

@henboy, You definitely need new caps, rotors and the insulator shield X 2 sets. Don’t waste your money on cheap parts from Autozone and similar places.

Bite the bullet and purchase quality parts from Mercedes or other sources that can be found on this website.

Secondly, Any advice you get from @gsxr, take it seriously. He is the most knowledgeable guy on W124 - M119 V8s you will find on this site or any other.

You won’t do better anywhere else.

Just Sayinyes, he seems very knowledgeable. Thx

 

[gsxr]

Exact symptom:
.Crank the car and the idle is so low the car tries to shut off until raise the idle for about 30 sec to a minute.It idles normal when it warms up.

Low idle speed is due to the electronic idle speed control not working. This requires both a good non-ASR ETA, and also a good T/LLR module. Take the E-GAS module out if it's still in there and put the T/LLR module back in. Fault codes will help a little but it's difficult to accurately diagnose without live data or swapping parts. Unfortunately your ASR parts car won't help with these 2 items. You can check the date code on the ETA green decal, if original from 1994, it may need a rebuild (contact Don Roden at RFC Electronics, search the forum for info on this).

Put the car in drive, the idle dips down to around 500 .At 500rpm, in drive the engine is vibrating.

Normal idle speed at operating temp is 650rpm in P/N and 500-550rpm in any gear. Engine vibration at idle is almost always bad engine mounts. You won't like the price of new OE mounts, and aftermarket might only last a couple of years.

Hit the throttle with a half way pedal travel, the car starts moving (no vibration from engine).

Have you checked the throttle cable adjustment, including the linkage to the ETA, as I already mentioned? The non-ASR ETA should start opening the throttle plate with ~10% pedal movement. If not, something is screwed up with the cable/linkage.

At this point , it is slowly working its way until I get to around 40mph , then it drives normal with a hard shift to second. Not concerned about the hard shift, I will adjust the modulator later on.

It's hard to tell if it's slow to get to 40mph due to lack of power (throttle not opening fully?) or if there's other issues. The hard shift could be due to low vacuum, check ALL the vacuum lines/pipes for leaks or disconnected hoses. Adjusting the modulator won't help if there's not a correct vacuum signal to the modulator in the first place. Wide throttle openings will also cause low vacuum and hard shifts.

I will report back in 2 days after I change the cap and rotors.

It still isn't clear if the car is running on 4 or 8 cylinders. If it's running smoothly on all 8, changing caps & rotors won't help anything. If running on 4 cylinders some or all of the time, you need to check the ENTIRE ignition system, borrowing from the parts car for testing.

I will get the code reader this week, but I need to keep at it while I have a parts car. Yes, there is a ton of info.I cant go further until I get the code reader

The code reader will help but doesn't always pinpoint the exact issue, as newer OBD-2 systems often can. For example there will be zero codes for ignition problems, you are stuck figuring out misfire problems without codes. The main thing with the fault codes is clearing everything (ignore the existing codes), driving the car, and seeing what codes immediately return. Fix whatever is causing the codes to return immediately. I'm expecting something on pin #7 (T/LLR) that may help diagnosing the poor idle speed control, and/or faults on the ETA.

Good luck... you'll need it.

 

[sheward]

Sir, follow Dave's advice. If you should need, I have a good T/LLR module I can provide you for $50.00. I also have a 92 non ASR ETA for sale. It has a different plug than your 94 model car. Changing the cords is possible however it requires someone with experienced soldering capabilities. I would be open to possible trades since you are local to me. You can contact me through a PM on this board.

 

[sheward]

Something like this Mercedes OBD1 Diagnostic code reader for cars with the round 38 Port | eBay is what GSXR is referring to for a blink code reader.

 

[henboy1]

Sir, follow Dav's advice. If you should need, I have a good T/LLR module I can provide you for $50.00. I also have a 92 non ASR ETA for sale. It has a different plug than your 94 model car. Changing the cords is possible however it requires someone with experienced soldering capabilities. I would be open to possible trades since you are local to me. You can contact me through a PM on this board.

So, the TTL module is not interchangeable with the parts car , which is an ASR . Gotcha . Dav , I will pm you for your TTL module. What part of town ? I am on the south side

 

[henboy1]

Something like this Mercedes OBD1 Diagnostic code reader for cars with the round 38 Port | eBay is what GSXR is referring to for a blink code reader.

Great info , I saw that on eBay . From reading this , changing out the caps and rotors don't seem like it would work

 

[sheward]

So, the TTL module is not interchangeable with the parts car , which is an ASR . Gotcha . Dav , I will pm you for your TTL module. What part of town ? I am on the south side

I am sheward, not Dave and I'm on the Northside.

 

[henboy1]

I am sheward, not Dave and I'm on the Northside.

Cap and rotors driver's side . I will check the passenger tomorrow

 

[henboy1]

Ordered the 38 pin code reader today

 

[nocfn]

Do you have the insulators in a picture? It is difficult to tell when blowing up the picture, but it appears that the caps have an oily residue. Drain cuts can help with that in the cap, but really until you replace the cam shaft seals behind the insulator, you are going to have blow by adding to the issues of moisture, oily moisture at that.

 

[henboy1]

Do you have the insulators in a picture? It is difficult to tell when blowing up the picture, but it appears that the caps have an oily residue. Drain cuts can help with that in the cap, but really until you replace the cam shaft seals behind the insulator, you are going to have blow by adding to the issues of moisture, oily moisture at that.

No, I didnt take those off.I am scared I might strip those hex nuts to the insulator.The middle part of the rotor(circle in the middle ) is almost gone compared to the new one.

 

[henboy1]

Do you have the insulators in a picture? It is difficult to tell when blowing up the picture, but it appears that the caps have an oily residue. Drain cuts can help with that in the cap, but really until you replace the cam shaft seals behind the insulator, you are going to have blow by adding to the issues of moisture, oily moisture at that.

From the many readings I have done , it seems like the seals for the cam shaft are part of the moisture building , hence owners are going through caps and rotors just about every year

 

[nocfn]

Your thoughts are the cam seals that actually seal and prevent the gaseous oily blow-by contribute to moisture? I guess I do not understand.

Show pictures of the rotor bracket, if these things are stripped then you need new rotor brackets. Those insulators replaced, with new seals on the cam shafts. Working from a completely refreshed set of circumstances from the seal to the insulator, rotor, (bracket if needed) and cap should make this a one and done. If you have cam advance magnet leaking oil around the plug then getting new ones, along with new armatures and bolts are also advised.

If these things are done from the start, you stand a very good chance of not messing with this for several years. This is my experience on 2 w124 vehicles and after those items were completed, there has not been an issue. One car is in hot humid SE Texas, the other in NE Ohio. YMMV

 

[henboy1]

Your thoughts are the cam seals that actually seal and prevent the gaseous oily blow-by contribute to moisture? I guess I do not understand.

Cam seals.Yes, thats what I meant.A good insulation will prevent that.................insulators.There are more issues of rotors than caps, from what I am reading

 

[nocfn]

It is the chicken or the egg. PO generlly cheap out and band-aid the shit out of this. I am not meaning to spend your money, though if you want a sound running car you will spend it anyway. The question is to do want to continue to do these things, tear it off to get to the insulators that most likely have alligator skin on the back of them or do you want to do this once and be done with it for a long time. In my first two years of doing this, when I had a chance to correct my Dad's e420, I just ordered everything from the seals out to the cover and he has not had any issues with the ignition since.

 

[henboy1]

It is the chicken or the egg. PO generlly cheap out and band-aid the shit out of this. I am not meaning to spend your money, though if you want a sound running car you will spend it anyway. The question is to do want to continue to do these things, tear it off to get to the insulators that most likely have alligator skin on the back of them or do you want to do this once and be done with it for a long time. In my first two years of doing this, when I had a chance to correct my Dad's e420, I just ordered everything from the seals out to the cover and he has not had any issues with the ignition since.

You are quite right.Sometimes you dont have to spend money immediately when you are kind of guessing.If the cap rotor fixes this issue then I will go back and attempt to replace the Insulators.Knowledgeable comments are pointing more towards the harness/ETA than caps and rotors. Not taking chances...yet

 

[gsxr]

Remember you need to remove the rotor bracket (single bolt) to remove the insulator, and you need to inspect the REAR of the insulator for liquid.

Your photo shows the rotor already removed from the bracket, there is just a single bolt left to remove.

 

[sheward]

I spoke with OP offline some last night so I'm adding a bit of information. Original TLLR module was re - installed without effect so we are continuing assuming it's ok.
henboy1; You have already removed the 3 bolts that can be difficult so remove the final bolt GSXR referenced to see what the backside of the insulator looks like.

 

[henboy1]

Thx guys . I went back out in this rain and took out the insulator . Slightly greasy but not much . Cleaned it with Windex and put it back in . Waiting for the rain to stop . Sorry , this pic is the wrong side of the insulator . I sanded down the old rotor and will install the new rotor and cap . Will report back in a few hrs

 

[henboy1]

New. One side

 

[henboy1]

passenger side . I will finish tomorrow.

 

[sheward]

That passenger side cap is obviously bad. The inside of the insulator above looks pretty good. As said, it would be a very good decision to replace everything.

 

[henboy1]

I just finished changing Cap and Rotors .Cranked it up , and shut it off.I went ahead and changed the plugs.Only about 10 % improvement but falls flat on it's face at 10mph when starting on an incline.Same problem.I am not willing to wait to get my throttle body rebuilt, my question is will the 1996 Non ASR throttle body fit?I already have the ASR 1994 parts car for the engine harness.

 

[henboy1]

The plugs didnt look that bad except for few fuel on the tips.The Code reader should be here by tuesday, but that wouldnt help much

 

[gsxr]

I just finished changing Cap and Rotors .Cranked it up , and shut it off.I went ahead and changed the plugs.Only about 10 % improvement but falls flat on it's face at 10mph when starting on an incline.Same problem.

Still need more details here. Is there a MISFIRE, or simply a lack of power? You could have something as simple as low fuel pressure under load, due to one or both fuel pumps failing. Sitting for 4 years with bad gas, it's a pretty good possibility the pumps are dead. Especially if there is no misfire, and the car has no power.

I am not willing to wait to get my throttle body rebuilt, my question is will the 1996 Non ASR throttle body fit? I already have the ASR 1994 parts car for the engine harness.

No no no no no. As mentioned back in post #6, the ASR and non-ASR ETA's can not not not be interchanged.

 

[henboy1]

Still need more details here. Is there a MISFIRE, or simply a lack of power? You could have something as simple as low fuel pressure under load, due to one or both fuel pumps failing. Sitting for 4 years with bad gas, it's a pretty good possibility the pumps are dead. Especially if there is no misfire, and the car has no power.



No no no no no. As mentioned back in post #6, the ASR and non-ASR ETA's can not not not be interchanged.

Oh yes, I know.;It cannot be interchanged.This is why I mentioned finding a used ETA.

 

[henboy1]

Still need more details here. Is there a MISFIRE, or simply a lack of power? You could have something as simple as low fuel pressure under load, due to one or both fuel pumps failing. Sitting for 4 years with bad gas, it's a pretty good possibility the pumps are dead. Especially if there is no misfire, and the car has no power.



No no no no no. As mentioned back in post #6, the ASR and non-ASR ETA's can not not not be interchanged.

There is no misfire. ilding fuel pressure was 58 and about 66 on rev.Fuel pump could do this?I am lost and getting disappointed

 

[gsxr]

There is no misfire. ilding fuel pressure was 58 and about 66 on rev.Fuel pump could do this?I am lost and getting disappointed

Pressure at idle, with no load, can be fine... but under load, pressure can drop if the pumps are bad. I've had this on at least two different cars and the first time it took forever to figure out what was happening. Unfortunately there's no way to prove this without connecting a remote fuel pressure gauge that can be viewed while driving, to see if fuel pressure remains normal (45psi or more) under load when driving, when the power loss occurs.

I'm not positive this is your problem, but parked 4 years with bad gas...

 

[henboy1]

Pressure at idle, with no load, can be fine... but under load, pressure can drop if the pumps are bad. I've had this on at least two different cars and the first time it took forever to figure out what was happening. Unfortunately there's no way to prove this without connecting a remote fuel pressure gauge that can be viewed while driving, to see if fuel pressure remains normal (45psi or more) under load when driving, when the power loss occurs.

I'm not positive this is your problem, but parked 4 years with bad gas...

I will start by changing the fuel filter.I will change the fuel filter in the morning

 

[sheward]

If the car truly sat for more than a year and a half I would drain the fuel and start with some good gas. I have watched a video where 10 per cent ethanol fuel would not even ignite after that long.

 

[henboy1]

If the car truly sat for more than a year and a half I would drain the fuel and start with some good gas. I have watched a video where 10 per cent ethanol fuel would not even ignite after that long.

I ran out the fuel for 2 days until it shut off . Then filled it back up and added stp octane booster . I am sure that bad gas is already gone . I even added marvel mystery at half tank

 

[gsxr]

The pumps tend to start causing problems after 20-25 years even with fresh gas. Bad gas can speed up their demise. Would be nice if a new filter does the trick but don't get your hopes up. Be careful if changing the filter (or pumps) with anything more than a couple of gallons in the tank. There's a story with photos on PeachParts where a guy burned down his garage (and car) while working on the pump/filter...

 

[henboy1]

The pumps tend to start causing problems after 20-25 years even with fresh gas. Bad gas can speed up their demise. Would be nice if a new filter does the trick but don't get your hopes up. Be careful if changing the filter (or pumps) with anything more than a couple of gallons in the tank. There's a story with photos on PeachParts where a guy burned down his garage (and car) while working on the pump/filter...

Thanks for the heads up.I have decided not to change the pump/filter at this time.I went to the yard I park the parts car. This ASR parts car was purchased knowing that the issue was the timing chain.I cant remember exactly what they said about the chain but I tried cranking the parts car to make sure I have a spare engine in the future.I reinstalled the Gas modulator, fuel pressure regulator and the EZL(ignition control modul) that I had used to test my issue.I then realized the key wouldnt fit to open the trunk.I then read on here , on how to jump the car from the passenger side floor panel.I gave it a jump from a working battery.The parts car cranks without starting.fuel is almost empty and battery died.Long story short, I will go back out there with a vehicle , fuel and starting fluid to try to start this car.if it doesn't start , I will remove this car's Wiring harness for my working car.I see no stickers on this part's car wiring harness, except for labels on the injector wires for each cylinder.We will see monday.

 

[henboy1]

I am up early in the morning doing research and I read this on another forum ............"That is correct. The throttle body on non ASR vehicles only controls idle and cruise control function. This cleaning will not help with acceleration issues"
This is interesting.Just getting ready for my last option if the upper engine harness dont fix.Guys , where can I find the correct engine range for the correct throttle body?Not interested in rebuilding if it's bad.

 

[sheward]

You are getting incorrect information. Listen to the folks here.

Your question about engine range is unclear. You are going to need a blink code reader if you want to solve your issues.

 

[henboy1]

You are getting incorrect information. Listen to the folks here.

Your question about engine range is unclear. You are going to need a blink code reader if you want to solve your i