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Instrument cluster Dreaded Dot Disease (DDD)
- Thread starter cole67
- Start date
I've been confused up until now about those dots since day one of being into w124's. I typically saw them on the older late 80's models and have never seen them on a late facelift model that I can recall. So I subconsciously assumed it was an aesthetic "feature" added to the early models that had since partially faded away or aged horribly. The Schwarzenegger of instrument clusters.
So that's not actually the case? What the hell are those dots then? Mildew? lol
So that's not actually the case? What the hell are those dots then? Mildew? lol
Correct.
DDD is what happens if your MB didn't receive the proper vaccinations when it was delivered...
WTH? The scourge of the Anti-Vaxxers hits MBs!
Is that a joke, or is it really mildew? Is there a way of refurbing these cluster housings?
I have seen attempts on w126 to change the appearance. Some removed the plexiglass by separating the plastic welds to expose the center area completely. IIRC they use a anti-bacterial soap, repainted and put it back together. Its been a long time, perhaps a search on what was done may yield a result or two. Definitely get some junk yard spares as you can break them easily during the separation process. Maybe @luckymike would remember, it may have been a soaking too, but there has been some success.
If it's just on the housing, buy a replacement cluster from eBay or a junkyard in better condition, and swap all your gauges (and idiot-light plastic strips, if necessary) to the nicer housing.
No need to attempt cleaning the original; especially since removing the clear plastic face can destroy the cluster housing.
No need to attempt cleaning the original; especially since removing the clear plastic face can destroy the cluster housing.
I think there was something about a toothbrush and tedious work and that the owner was ultimately successful.
My cluster was covered with those horrible white dots and I did exactly this to restore it. At first I thought about using the cluster of a 300E but the one I got from the yunkard, the housing was made of a different material (cheap hard plastic that cant get DDD instead of the soft high-end material that gets DDD) so I decided to restore mine to keep the quality of the materials. I was very careful when separating the plexiglass from the assembly but with a sharp knife, soap, and a lot of patience you can do it. I separated everything, used soap to clean the parts with DDD, and then I used black liquid shoe polish to get the cluster black again. The cluster was horrible before because my car was parked for many years in a very humid area but after this work, it looks again like new! Its not a hard job, it only requires patience.
The cluster used to look worst than that one and now it looks like this.
Ps: To put the plexiglass back in place I used black RTV gasket maker to seal it completely and to make sure that if I wanted/needed to do this job again in a couple years, it would be easier.
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Sharp knife, soap, and a lot of patience, eh?
Looks good. Black shoe polish? Can you specify brand and color specifically? Does the shoe polish dry/harden enough not rub off?
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I wouldn’t try using the oven because you might damage the soft material outside the plexiglass.
A sharp knife to put between the housing and the plexiglass. Soap to make it harder to scratch something you don’t need to and because it helps in separating the plexiglass/cutting through the seal and lots of patience because you have to be careful, otherwise you’ll crack the plexiglass.
As for the liquid shoe polish, I used a regular brand called “Cherry” that I bought at Walmart. I opened the bottle and poured in all the shoe polish in a bowl. Then with a paint brush, I “painted” the housing with multiple layers. Since it’s liquid, it acts as ink so it sticks perfectly good to the housing. I tried to rub it off but I couldn’t. Make sure to use liquid shoe polish, otherwise it won’t work.
Ah. Thanks for the clarification. I presume you went at the plexi from the front? Or both front and back?
MIght a sharp cerrated knife work more quickly?
And the polish was called Cherry black, and it was the exact color of the original housing?
I notice that on the right side of your "old" removed housing remain the plastic symbols for the warning lights. Presume you removed those before applying polish?
What was your method for reinstalling the plexiglass using black RTV gasket maker?Can you be more specific? I'm not familiar with the material.
Would be great to have a "How To" of this process, especially if it returns the housing to exact factory look and lasts a long time.
By the way, it seems you outside temp display has gone bad. Contact Gerry. He had a whole bunch of them.
Thanks, pablo2696.
Jamie
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Dave, pablo2696's method above seemed to work, although it's just one imperfect photo, thought he says it looks like a new one after his method. He also said that the one he sourced from a 300E was made from a different material. Are the cluster housings unique to the 036? Seems odd. The EPC seems to suggest the same part number for many or all 124s.If it's just on the housing, buy a replacement cluster from eBay or a junkyard in better condition, and swap all your gauges (and idiot-light plastic strips, if necessary) to the nicer housing.
No need to attempt cleaning the original; especially since removing the clear plastic face can destroy the cluster housing.
Jamie
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Very early 124s (1986 to 1988) had cluster frames made from a semi-glossy black plastic. These also had narrower lighting prisms and absolutely abysmal gauge illumination. In 1989 MB changed the cluster frame to a matte, more textured plastic (this can turn somewhat brown as it ages) with wider lighting prisms. Basically, all cluster frames from 1989 to EOP are identical.
I was going to ask about this since I have a couple of older model clusters in my basement including one from my dearly departed 87 300E 5 speed which I was thinking about using the housing for my E420 which has a terrible case of the DDD. Aside from the lighting issue is it possible to use the old cluster housings?
I'm sure they will fit, but why not get a 1990 or later cluster housing used? They are very common in the wrecking yards. I will be happy to get you one next time I'm in the yards -- probably in the next month or so. I've had to take a hiatus since late February....
Thanks Drew. Great info. I assume you are talking about the liquid kind pablo2696 referred to? My shifter handle is faded and slightly rough. I guess it won’t fix the slight toughness but worthwhile for the fade.
I assume the earlier housing had a different part number?
Yes, I do think a sharp knife works faster. I only went at the plexi from the front. As for the liquid shoe polisher, it is just black. My cluster had fadded into a brownish color, but after using the shoe polisher its back to black. I removed everything (including the warning lights) before cleaning and removing the plexi.
So after everything is clean and black again, you put the gasket maker on the edges where the plexiglass goes (you´ll see them after removing the plexiglass). It is basically around the housing where the plexi sits. Try to put just enough to seal it completely and make sure it is even all around the
edge. Don`t put too much gasket maker. I used permatex ultra black gasket maker because it was the one I had laying around. However, if you have to buy it, it might be an overkill because of this work, you don`t need oil and high temp. resistant gasket maker. Just make sure that the gasket maker you use is black.
I thought about doing a How To, but I wasn`t sure how I was going to fix it. Most of the stuff just happened along the process and I didn`t have anything planned. Next time Ill fix another cluster, Ill do a How to on it.
Now it makes sense to me why both cluster frames were different. I thought the E500E models had a different cluster than the rest and that`s why I decided to fix it... The one I got rom the yunkyard is from an 87 300E.
This is by far the easiest and less stressful solution. I would`ve done this if I had more options at the junkyards but it's very difficult in Costa Rica to find w124 clusters with no DDD at the junkyards.
speedy300dturbo nailed it. Early housings are different, later are an improved design. If located in USA where shipping isn't expensive, it's usually easier to just swap housings. If your existing housing has original decals you want to keep, I'd try to transfer them over. Gotta be easier than cutting off the plexi! If you don't have access to good spare housings, then the other method is worth exploring.
I would imagine, since the 124 is an old car, that any housing purchased used is going to have at minimum a good degree of fading. Why is this preferable to refurbishing one, even without DDD?
Jamie
Nope, very few I've seen have fading, at least in the housing. This is because it's set into the dashboard and doesn't have a lot of surface area for the sun. The needles on the instruments fade, but not the housings themselves. I've seen hundreds of 124 clusters in the wrecking yards over the years, and have several ones in my basement from 400Es. They're all quite fine.
Gerry is correct. The instrument faces & needles may fade if the car was parked in sunlight often, but the housing itself usually looks the same either way. Sometimes it's hard to find a housing without any scratches or scrapes, but internally they are usually good, if nobody installed over-wattage bulbs.
Interesting. Thanks, guys. I'll search that way. I don't get it, though. Mine is somewhat faded (meaning not true black but more of a dark gray -- maybe SLIGHTLY brownish). Are they a true black new?Gerry is correct. The instrument faces & needles may fade if the car was parked in sunlight often, but the housing itself usually looks the same either way. Sometimes it's hard to find a housing without any scratches or scrapes, but internally they are usually good, if nobody installed over-wattage bulbs.
Mine has started to have a bit of DDD. I wonder why it happens to some housings and not others? Must be a humidity thing?
Then black shoe polish will change the original appearance, I would assume.DDD is absolutely related to humid areas.
I think all clusters are a slightly brownish hue in some parts of the housing, or at least I think I've never seen one that wasn't?
Also, I saw this link.:
There are two kinds of housing?
Jamie
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Yes - early ones have thin light guides which can melt. I'm not sure when the later ones were phased in, possibly around 1990? @speedy300dturbo may know when MB upgraded.
For those interested, I have an ongoing instrument cluster resto from DDD underway over at the 126board forum.
It is possible to remove the DDD and refinish the cluster housing. For faded gauges, of course new gauge faces can also be ordered from several sources.
The cluster with DDD pictured below is one of my spare units, from a 420SEL, that I am using for illustrative purposes. The other cluster housing is a second spare that I am using as a replacement. I am almost done with the job.
Project GVZ SEC: The Tale of a Coupe Repair & Rejuvenation | Member Roadtrips and Project Journals
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It is possible to remove the DDD and refinish the cluster housing. For faded gauges, of course new gauge faces can also be ordered from several sources.
The cluster with DDD pictured below is one of my spare units, from a 420SEL, that I am using for illustrative purposes. The other cluster housing is a second spare that I am using as a replacement. I am almost done with the job.
I'm 98% done with this DDD instrument cluster refurbishment project.
Here are a few photos of the cluster, immediately after I pulled it from my 560SEC:
Difference in contrast between the old and new gauge faces:
And, with the refurbished gauges and instrument cluster housing. This is just a test-fitting of all of the gauges:
Here are a few photos of the cluster, immediately after I pulled it from my 560SEC:
Difference in contrast between the old and new gauge faces:
And, with the refurbished gauges and instrument cluster housing. This is just a test-fitting of all of the gauges:
This link just hangs for me. Anyone else have same issue?
Link is woking for me. Can you try a different device / browser?
https://126board.com/threads/10033/page-5#post-244325
I’m using Safari on iOS. It barely starts to load and then hangs forever. I suppose I can try computer when I get home. Weird
Works now
Here is a photo of my refurbished instrument cluster on my SEC last night. I was driving on Maryland 450 near my house preparing to go across the Naval Academy Bridge over the Severn River onto the USNA campus.
The brightness was at about 60% in this photo — I had it turned down quite a lot from the max. I’d say my refirb was a good success.
The brightness was at about 60% in this photo — I had it turned down quite a lot from the max. I’d say my refirb was a good success.
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I am happy to say that my C126 instrument cluster refirb continues to be a full success a full year-plus later. I am just thrilled about how it turned out. The new replacement gauge faces really make the cluster "pop". I hope the process inspires others to refirb their clusters, if they need to be.
I had a few cluster cases that were older, I painted the outer case Landau Black as a test and it has been over 13 years and the outer appearance is great. The inside looks a bit odd - perhaps time to swap to my climate controlled spare (plural) for one case that is still visually perfect inside.
Clean housings are becoming harder to find.
I've elaborated on these instructions for separating the clear plastic cover from the main housing. Thanks to the people up-thread for showing it can be done.
I primarily used an Exacto knife with a unique blade and a pair of toast tongs as shown. I believe it's helpful to note three areas of the housing where small notches are present. About an inch from each bottom corner are 3 or 4mm notches in the housing where corresponding "pegs" on the cover engage. There is a similar notch across the entire flat area at the top of the housing. These areas, more so the bottom two, will be a bit more difficult to separate. This means the clear cover will have to be removed from the top first. You will likely find the bottom corners will be the hardest to separate.
After some cutting with the Exacto, I began gently pushing/tapping with the wooden tongs (anything that will not scratch the plastic will do) to release the glue. This takes patience. The more cutting at the mentioned areas, the better chances of success. Start at the top. It will likely separate a bit easier than the sharper corners.
After alcohol, sanding, and steel wool, the cluster looks very similar to the survivor next to it, just slightly lighter in color. The color is actually very dark brown under good lighting. I've bought some satin dark walnut paint which looks to be a very good match. If it's too shiny I'll rub it with some fine steel wool.
I've elaborated on these instructions for separating the clear plastic cover from the main housing. Thanks to the people up-thread for showing it can be done.
I primarily used an Exacto knife with a unique blade and a pair of toast tongs as shown. I believe it's helpful to note three areas of the housing where small notches are present. About an inch from each bottom corner are 3 or 4mm notches in the housing where corresponding "pegs" on the cover engage. There is a similar notch across the entire flat area at the top of the housing. These areas, more so the bottom two, will be a bit more difficult to separate. This means the clear cover will have to be removed from the top first. You will likely find the bottom corners will be the hardest to separate.
After some cutting with the Exacto, I began gently pushing/tapping with the wooden tongs (anything that will not scratch the plastic will do) to release the glue. This takes patience. The more cutting at the mentioned areas, the better chances of success. Start at the top. It will likely separate a bit easier than the sharper corners.
After alcohol, sanding, and steel wool, the cluster looks very similar to the survivor next to it, just slightly lighter in color. The color is actually very dark brown under good lighting. I've bought some satin dark walnut paint which looks to be a very good match. If it's too shiny I'll rub it with some fine steel wool.
