OWNER JC220

[gsxr]

Is the car driving OK, or is all the testing done while the car is in the shop and not being started / driven...?

 

[JC220]

Is the car driving OK, or is all the testing done while the car is in the shop and not being started / driven...?

Hi Dave,

No the car still can't drive it's on Jackstands (For Waxoyling I need to finish) and the ETA is removed. But plugged in for code reading.

The car was fine before I renewed both harnesses. Then when I started it on the stands it ran rough with the ASR light on in the dash- it never did that before. I assumed it was ECO Junk ETA wiring which I disturbed for the installation of the new lower & upper harnesses.

But when removed the ETA wiring was fine...... so I am reading fault codes now looking for clues. And really just looking to see what else I can check prior to the new ETA Gasket arriving on Thursday and firing it up again whilst the CAN Box etc is opened up- hopefully the replacement Base module will allow me to read the pin #4 codes later.

If my base module was fried- that might have also been the culprit for the Battery Drain which was never put to bed.

But the Voltage error code to the LH module is interesting also. My Battery drain testing indicated the LH Module was pulling the amperage mostly. It might be worth me pulling the can box and inspecting the LH Power wires carefully?

Joe

 

[gsxr]

Hmmm. I'd consider waiting until you can start & drive the car again. If it drives normally, there may not be an issue. Remind me again what part number your LH module is that's currently installed? Do you have a spare of the same number?

 

[JC220]

Hmmm. I'd consider waiting until you can start & drive the car again. If it drives normally, there may not be an issue. Remind me again what part number your LH module is that's currently installed? Do you have a spare of the same number?

My LH Module is 014 545 17 32

I couldn't locate one for weeks but just spotted one on Ebay. Described as Grade A condition and with a 3 Month Warranty I snapped it up. Should be here in a week or two. (Coming from Poland)

Even if mine's not faulty I did always intend to have a full set of spare modules.

I think that module I have is early (Euro specific maybe- I'm not sure?) and seem few & far between

Yes I guess I can't get far without the sucker running- should be running by Thursday / Friday night when I get the ETA back on

 

[gsxr]

OK, cool, that is the correct 500E module. And that particular part number is quite rare, it's the "late 1992" WOT module. Dunno what the difference is between that and the earlier, more common 012- module. Regardless, it's a good idea to have spares! Just make sure both work ok, and the fuel pump relay does not click with the engine running (start engine, remove right rear seat cushion, check green relay).

 

[JC220]

OK so I replaced the Base Module- it had less codes stored so I cleared them.

Still no codes from Pin #4....


BUT the ETA is now throwing codes (Even without the car running)


Codes 3 & 11 keep popping up every time I clear them. (Pin #7)


The ETA only makes a brief click when the Ignition is on- no continuous buzzing noises. Nor does the Throttle Plate move when the Throttle Lever is moved.


I think this means it’s FUBAR?


I contacted BBA Reman in England today. The price for them to rebuild is not un-reasonable at around £200 but they also offer a Lifetime Warranty on the Repair. Is this the Route I should take?

Finding an ETA with the big connector is proving difficult

 

[gsxr]

Codes 3 & 11 keep popping up every time I clear them. (Pin #7)

The ETA only makes a brief click when the Ignition is on- no continuous buzzing noises. Nor does the Throttle Plate move when the Throttle Lever is moved.

I think this means it’s FUBAR?

That typically means either the ETA is dead, or the E-GAS module is defective, or both. (Assuming all fuses are good, modules seated, yadda yadda...)

 

[JC220]

That typically means either the ETA is dead, or the E-GAS module is defective, or both. (Assuming all fuses are good, modules seated, yadda yadda...)

Yes it seems somehow the ETA died with the harness replacement. There must be some sort an issue with the wires to it with having moved them even though they look 100% AOK

So I'll have to send the ETA to BBA reman now for testing before I waste more time re-fitting it again. The fact that the plug and harness I ordered 4 weeks ago from MB is still MIA really doesn't help matters.

 

[JC220]

Maybe I should start a new thread for more response to this but

what do you guys think of BBA Reman for ETA's? I would like mine tested / rebuilt with a warranty here in the UK. They seem like my best option and the price is bearable. Lifetime warranty offered also.

however I see good & bad reviews on their repairs regarding MB ETA's- what are you guys's experiences?

Some people say they only rewire them for example.... If that's the case I can do that myself. I will phone their office tomorrow for more info before I commit to sending it off I guess but if anyone has used them before I'd love to hear from you

 

[JC220]

Sorry for all the posts- but I found out just now what the problem was......

I AM AN IDIOT!


I double checked everything on the car again- wires all good. Then back to the CAN Box pushed hard on all the modules & hit them HARD with the palm of my fist- all good.... or so I thought. I looked back through my Photos from before they were removed- they looked to be sitting about 2mm lower in there. I had to use a mallet to beat them home the extra 2mm or so.


Now the ETA Buzzes cleary for a few seconds and set back to rest after a couple of seconds each time the ignition is turned on. Plus pin #4 now gives codes also. Pin #7 codes not reappearing except for a new one now- 14. No more code testing until it's running again.


Bugger- lesson learned.

I will have to figure out why they are so stuck- I mean I had to HIT them to get them in- not normal. Light corrosion on the casing maybe I’ll clean that up and maybe smear a little silicon grease on the runners to free them up.


So it seems all should be good to refit the ETA and fire it up this weekend finally. Still Waxoyling to do but it will be nice to have it running again at least even if it's on Jack Stands still!

 

[gsxr]

Yup, that's a common issue... some modules are a TIGHT fit, and require a pretty good whacking to fully seat! Glad it was an easy fix.

 

[JC220]

Yes it's good that all is OK again that one flummoxed me for a bit. I knew the ETA was fine! Those modules sure are tight- from now on any time they're out I'll use a mallet to seat them.

Tonight I had also spoken to Vicktor in New York by phone (restore your Mercedes). Very nice guy- he also explained (without me saying first) that all pancake plug early m119 ETA's DO NOT suffer from Eco Junk problems. Only the ones with the plug with O ring on it (1993+?)

This explains why my wiring is fine on the ETA.

 

[gerryvz]

Recommended to tap each CAN computer with a rubber mallet to fully seat them !!

 

[gerryvz]

Tonight I had also spoken to Vicktor in New York by phone (restore your Mercedes). Very nice guy- he also explained (without me saying first) that all pancake plug early m119 ETA's DO NOT suffer from Eco Junk problems. Only the ones with the plug with O ring on it (1993+?)

This explains why my wiring is fine on the ETA.

First time I've heard that. Could be true thought. Definitely not true for upper wiring harnesses

 

[gsxr]

First time I've heard that. Could be true thought. Definitely not true for upper wiring harnesses

That is interesting. I've never heard that either. Guess we'll need to keep an eye out for pancake-plug ETA's with bad wiring? Anyone have an example?

 

[ghm]

That is interesting. I've never heard that either. Guess we'll need to keep an eye out for pancake-plug ETA's with bad wiring? Anyone have an example?

I hope that is right. My late 93 has the pancake-style connector on the ETA and replacement has been on my to-do list after seeing the condition of my original lower harness wiring. Maybe I can take it off the list ��

 

[JC220]

First time I've heard that. Could be true thought. Definitely not true for upper wiring harnesses

Yes before I even mentioned the condition of the wires Viktor asked me what type of plug the ETA had. I said the early Pancake one.

He went on to say that the early ETA's with the large connector do not have Eco Junk problems at all. So they are normally harder to repair from his perspective since any problems will be deeper in the unit. He said he has NEVER seen a Pancake connector ETA with degraded wiring- they are always 100% fine.


He went on to say the later clamshell connector ETA (1993+) with the O ring on the plug DO suffer badly from Eco Junk as we know already.


I think the Wiki should be updated with this info so others don't assume the worst like I did and pull their ETA.

Bottom line IMO is if the Cruise and Idle are fine and you have the large round plug part no 140 540 15 81 type ETA- regardless of build date it will not have degraded wiring.

 

[JC220]

OK, so the parts order arrived yesterday so I can get on with getting the car running again tonight hopefully. Just one thing- when re-fitting the ETA what is the Torque setting for those 4X 5mm Allen bolts that secure it?


And also when we are on the subject of Torque settings etc what is the best resource for Torque settings / service info for the 124.036 chassis? If anyone can point me in the direction of a good CD Rom manual etc I will buy one. I presume something like this-



http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mercedes-...nual-Repair-Workshop-5-in-1-DVD-/151159028325


But I would like to take your advice on the latest & most comprehensive version available?


I have 3 W124 Saloons currently, a W211 (Daily driver- no manual needed for it!) And my brother has a W126 500SEL which we restored a few years ago and I do intend to buy a 560 SEC myself soon enough so having some W126 info on there too would be advantageous.


I have Haynes manuals (I know Haynes manuals not the best resource but I really only use them for the Torque settings- full stop!) at home for the m102 & m104 motor's but nothing for the m119. Most W124 manuals only cover the regular models not the V8 one

 

[e500.org]

Very interesting mate and glad to know the ETA is fine!

Can you share photos of the pancake plug? I want to see if my car has the same. If I disturb wiring around there my ASR light does come on and the car limps so I suspect I have dodgy wiring. I have left it well alone for now though.

Luckily I have a W140 500SEL ETA sitting around which I think will fit my car.

Cheers,

Bill

 

[gsxr]

Factory manual is online here:
http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/MB CD/W124/Main.html

ETA R&R is in Group 30, here's a direct link:
http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/MB CD/W124/w124CD1/Program/Engine/119/30-1262E.pdf


ETA torque spec in the manual appears to be an error, it says 25Nm, however I believe that is WAY too high for an M6 bolt. It says to use new micro-encapsulated bolts, but you can clean the threads and use blue Loc-Tite as an alternative. I'd stick with 9-10Nm torque (a hair past snug) on these unless you enjoy installing Heli-coils or Timeserts.

 

[JC220]

Factory manual is online here:
http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/MB CD/W124/Main.html

ETA R&R is in Group 30, here's a direct link:
http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/MB CD/W124/w124CD1/Program/Engine/119/30-1262E.pdf


ETA torque spec in the manual appears to be an error, it says 25Nm, however I believe that is WAY too high for an M6 bolt. It says to use new micro-encapsulated bolts, but you can clean the threads and use blue Loc-Tite as an alternative. I'd stick with 9-10Nm torque (a hair past snug) on these unless you enjoy installing Heli-coils or Timeserts.

[/QUOTE]


As always- thanks for the info Dave

Yes that Torque setting sounds too high I set the wrench at 10NM & that felt like plenty. Thanks for the links too they will come in very handy

Very interesting mate and glad to know the ETA is fine!

Can you share photos of the pancake plug? I want to see if my car has the same. If I disturb wiring around there my ASR light does come on and the car limps so I suspect I have dodgy wiring. I have left it well alone for now though.

Luckily I have a W140 500SEL ETA sitting around which I think will fit my car.

Cheers,

Bill

Yes sure- see the pic attached for what the early ETA plug looks like

Due to me not malleting the modules fully home I had a false alarm on the ETA! But it was a good opportunity to properly clean the gunge off the underside of the Throttle plate and I can now declare it ECO Junk free.

It does sound like your ETA has degrading wires in it- you must have the one with the later plug (Clamshell type). They can be re-wired easily enough, I re-wired my own 3.6 AMG m104 ETA recently and it's now faultless.

It’s just past Midnight here & I just got the ETA re-fitted and the Engine running again. It’s running better than it has to date with the new plugs, wire harnesses and all the other servicing that’s been done

Now I need to get back to the Waxoyling so I can get it back on it’s wheels next weekend

 

[JC220]

So I got the car running OK last night- idled fine & revved freely for half an hour. Great!!


SHORT LIVED.


Started it this morning and it keeps going into limp mode. Now it’s running these are the fault codes-


I think this one is the most important-


Pin #4 Code 17 will not go away & cannot be cleared this is-
No CAN data transmission with EA/CC/ISC control module (N1/3) or CC/ISC control module (N4/3)
This is the only code on the Pin #4 but again- it cannot be cleared.

Pin #6 Code 30 can be cleared but keeps re-appearing on each startup.
CAN data bus to EA/CC/ISC control module (N4/1), interrupted

Pin #7 Code 14 can be cleared but keeps re-appearing on each startup.
CAN databus:
Message from EA/CC/ISC control module (N4/1) faulty

Message from ABS / ASR control module (N30/1) faulty
Message from LH-SFI control module (N3/1) faulty

All other Pins are clear of codes except pin # 30 (Airbags) which gives codes 3, 4, 5, 6 & 8. However, I have the convenience module removed currently so I am not sure if these are ‘real’ codes or not.


So I appear to have CAN data faults here. Maybe this all relates back to the original power drain issue..... but why is the ETA going into Limp mode then? Codes only show CAN errors so it seems the ETA is not at fault. It did run 100% fine last night too which affirms my opinion that the ETA is fault free.


How would you guys deal with these codes? Is it time to pull the CAN box surround and take a closer look at the wiring in below? Should I be looking through wiring diagrams to highlight which cables would be most suspect and targeting those first?

Edit- the car also has a missing selector bush on the gear selector. Could this be making the NSS put the car into limp mode? I do have a new bush to fit to the selector.

 

[gsxr]

YES, the gear selector bushing will cause problems! But it usually triggers code 30 on pin 6, and code 2 on pin 7, along with limp mode.

Pin 7 code 14 is: "Closed throttle position switch (S29/3)"

That is located inside the car behind the accelerator pedal, and it will cause limp mode. Need to inspect/replace as needed:
http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1438

 

[JC220]

YES, the gear selector bushing will cause problems! But it usually triggers code 30 on pin 6, and code 2 on pin 7, along with limp mode.

Pin 7 code 14 is: "Closed throttle position switch (S29/3)"

That is located inside the car behind the accelerator pedal, and it will cause limp mode. Need to inspect/replace as needed:
http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1438

OK this is strange.......... but here goes

When working at my MB's I tend to use the throttle lever on top of the Engine. Normally no issues there.

So to summarise this is what was happening. Car starts and idles happily. As soon as I used the Engine throttle mech directly to rev it shat itself almost instantly and went limp mode.

When racking my head just now trying to figure out WTF is wrong now I realised last night I used the In car Throttle to rev........ so I tried that- AOK! No limp mode.

So that throttle siwtch throws the car into limp mode and puts on the ASR light if the engine throttle mech is used directly? (Unlike every other Benz I own / work at?) Edit- yep I see the ECU expects input from that Throttle Position switch located inside the car to tell the ECU that Throttle is applied. I did not know that switch existed on this car- but now I do I guess that's problem solved! Note to myself- never use the Throttle linkage to rev the 500E!

Man this car is just F'ing with me now!

 

[gerryvz]

Yes, you CANNOT use the in-engine compartment throttle linkage to rev the engine. It WILL throw a code by design. You must use the gas pedal.

 

[JC220]

Yes I realise this now- the car got me good on that one!


There are a couple of other issues I don’t need to deal with right now but will need to address soon-


The Heat is on all the time inside the car- no matter if the dials are set to cold. I presume the Duo Valve needs re-building / replacing. I did hope the new ceramic fuses would have cured that particular issue but obviously not.


The Side vents also do not appear to let any air through at all although I have a funny feeling this is something to do with the vent dial- nothing changes when it is turned around, air always out at the screen and top centre vent. I’ll have to take that dial apart and see what’s going on.


And finally the Engine Air pump is making what seems like way too much noise. I think the air pump bearings are preparing to shit the bed. Am I better to shell out for a remanufactured Air Pump or is it possible to renew the Bearing(s) inside? Or is it any use to remove the pump, pry the seal off the bearing and try lubricating the bearing before it fails?

 

[gsxr]

And finally the Engine Air pump is making what seems like way too much noise. I think the air pump bearings are preparing to shit the bed. Am I better to shell out for a remanufactured Air Pump or is it possible to renew the Bearing(s) inside? Or is it any use to remove the pump, pry the seal off the bearing and try lubricating the bearing before it fails?

Noisy pumps are USUALLY not the bearing, it's the pump internal organs. If only the bearing is bad, there is a replacement Chinese bearing available but it's not easy to replace without damaging the pulley. Most of the time, you will be much better off buying a rebuilt pump. And, you need to also replace the backflow valve at the cylinder head; and the control valve too, for the pump warranty (or, exhaust may kill your new pump). Also plan on all new rubber hoses - the old ones will be fossilized.

 

[JC220]

Noisy pumps are USUALLY not the bearing, it's the pump internal organs. If only the bearing is bad, there is a replacement Chinese bearing available but it's not easy to replace without damaging the pulley. Most of the time, you will be much better off buying a rebuilt pump. And, you need to also replace the backflow valve at the cylinder head; and the control valve too, for the pump warranty (or, exhaust may kill your new pump). Also plan on all new rubber hoses - the old ones will be fossilized.

Thanks for the info Dave- I see rebuilt Air pumps here-


SMOG AIR PUMP 1992 400E 400SE 500E 500SE 500SEL 400SEL - REMANUFACTURED | eBay


These Air pumps are right pricey buggers! Plus the Core charge refund of $75 isnt going to work for me since posting it there will cost more than that. I will try to locate a refurb place preferably in the UK. The pump only makes noise when it's engaged- once it turns off after a minute or whatever with the engine cold it's 100% silent. So I think that suggest it's an internal fault & not the bearing.


I sent of the mat templates with my own dimensions based on the shape of the 400E mats. So I am looking forward to getting the new mats in a week or so hopefully.


I have rust repair welding complete yesterday which included removing the LH fender to properly repair the front of the cill. I am also pumping the chassis voids with clear Waxoyl this week- rust ain't ever going to be a problem with this car again! So I still need to do some work under the car to complete the waxoyl underbody shutz to the LH side. Then refit all the cladding etc again.

Still need to re-trim the B pillar covers with Alcantara and deep clean the interior before the new mats get here. Plus make and fit a new wiring loom for the boot lid. And for that selector bush- it looks like a PITA for access. I may just remove the complete gear shifter mech from inside the car. Then fit the bush using a socket and vice- refit selector assembly. Rather than lying under the car for hours swearing at it!


The heater fan will also be pulled now so I can determine the correct part no (EPC had way too many variations) and try Dry Lubing it first to cure the hugely annoying squeel it has. I am going to try to clean the Duo Valve and check that it's getting power / clicking when the heater is turned off.

Currently heat is on constant- not good since we have very unusually hot(ish) weather in Ireland ATM! I need to address that sooner than later. Then in a couple of weeks it's going for the A/C service to see if I can get that running correctly again.

One thing- those vents inside the car- are they Vacuum controlled? The side vents are non operational currently can't really figure why. When the switch is turned around to blow air out of them nothing happens......


Planning a good long run with the car soon up through the North of Ireland. This has turned into a mini resto so I'm very much looking forward to getting some miles on it again!

 

[8899]

Have you read these threads:

http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2283
[url]http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1370
[/URL]

 

[JC220]

Have you read these threads:

http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2283
http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1370

No I hadn't seen that- thankyou for the link!

Ill get busy reading when I get home later

 

[gsxr]

Thanks for the info Dave- I see rebuilt Air pumps here-
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MERCEDES-SM...-400SE-500E-500SE-500SEL-400SEL-/161018717706

These Air pumps are right pricey buggers! Plus the Core charge refund of $75 isnt going to work for me since posting it there will cost more than that. I will try to locate a refurb place preferably in the UK. The pump only makes noise when it's engaged- once it turns off after a minute or whatever with the engine cold it's 100% silent. So I think that suggest it's an internal fault & not the bearing.

That eBay price is high. Autohaus has them for 40% less (but, with higher core charge):
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pr...91401285+&searchbutton.x=23&searchbutton.y=12

BTW, the climate control vents are vacuum controlled... but we only have automatic climate control here in USA. The end dash vents have NO vacuum control flaps at all. If your car has manual climate control, I don't know how those work...

 

[JC220]

That eBay price is high. Autohaus has them for 40% less (but, with higher core charge):
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pr...91401285+&searchbutton.x=23&searchbutton.y=12

BTW, the climate control vents are vacuum controlled... but we only have automatic climate control here in USA. The end dash vents have NO vacuum control flaps at all. If your car has manual climate control, I don't know how those work...

Yes the price did seem high, thanks for the link I will check with them how much it’ll cost me to get it here


Well I did a little testing tonight on the heating system-


As per Gerry’s DIY- “There is one way to test the function of this sampler fan: you take about a 1-inch square piece of light (tissue) paper and place it directly on the little grill next to the sunroof switch. Then you turn the ignition on (either accessory mode or turn the engine on) and the ACC system in any position (economy, defrost, AC, etc.) except the OFF mode via the pushbuttons on the dashboard. A working sampler fan will hold the piece of tissue paper up against the grill via a tiny "suction" action. If the paper falls off the grill downward onto the center console or seat, you know immediately that your sampler fan is inoperative”


I did this test and the tissue held tight to the vent. As soon as I turned the ignition off it fell to the Seat. So the sampler fan is AOK


So the Duo Valve- I had a spare valve (about 3 actually!) so I figured out that the centre pin is positive= terminal. The other 2 pins (One Each side) are triggered by Neutral. When the Neutral is applied to either Pin(s) the valve shuts that side off. This was very easy to test rig using crocodile clips. So when I have the car running again in a days or two I will use the clips to power the valve up, thus bypassing the car’s A/C system and shutting the Duo Valve manually. If the Hot water still comes through then I know the Duovalve is faulty for sure BEFORE taking it out.


Then the lack of ventilation control, I also have a spare w124 console with the exact same A/C controls as in the 500E- see the pics. The Vent Adjustment switch has a mechanical cable sticking out the back. It seems to me this has somehow popped off or fauled in my car so that’s the first thing I will check.


Finally- onto the ventilation fan- it’s definitely the main hamster cage one that’s making the racket. My car has no Pollen Filters- does this Fan Motor seem like the correct one?-


Heater Blower Motor w/ Dual Fan Cage A/C for Mercedes Benz 300TE E420 300D E320 | eBay


(Again I cannot make head or tail of the EPC for the Ventilation motor- about a dozen options listed) It does seem like this one will fit and with a 10 year Warranty and at that price I don't think I can go wrong

 

[JC220]

Just a quick question, the 500E is booked in for Friday next week for the A/C Evac / Leak test + re-gas.

Are there any A/C system service parts which should be changed during the service? If so I need to order them in advance since they will not have parts for a w124!

 

[gerryvz]

Depends largely on what they find and if/where they find a leak. The most common place for leaks is at the evaporator, which is buried deep in the dashboard of the car. It requires removal of the dash and quite a bit of the underlying central infrastructure. Mostly labor, and quite a bit of it. If you do need to replace your evap, count on several thousand quid.

 

[gsxr]

Can't test AC until the always-on-heat is fixed first; so you don't get air above ambient temp. Should be able to connect refrigerant gauges and tell if the system is at least holding a charge; if the compressor runs you can get a rough idea of charge amount based on gauge readings - even if the air out the vents is hot due to the heater core fed with hot coolant.

 

[JC220]

Ok thanks Gerry & Dave I’m just in from doing more work on the car


I ‘jumpered’ the Duo Valve & it is faulty for sure. One side clicks clearly and the other side lets a soft dull thunk when energised. And running the car up to temp with both sides permanently jumpered confirmed the duo valve FUBAR as the heat was on full blast.


Yes I guess until that valve is replaced getting the A/C serviced is pointless so I’ll cancel that for now


I presume the Duo Valve is 500E Specific, anyone have a part number of the one I need

EDIT- I found this Part No. of duo valve needed | Heating and Cooling I will contact that company and see if they can rebuild the 500E's Duo Valve

Also- regarding the A/C Service the bit I was thinking about replacing was the Receiver Dryer. I remember reading before that it is good practice to renew those every few years for optimum A/C. They are inexpensive too so I might order one and have them fit it during the A/C service when it’s re-scheduled again.


Thing is though- there might not be anything wrong with the A/C at all if the duo valve is faulty.....

 

[JC220]

OK so for that Duo Valve I see the price is around about £1000

I'm surprised that no one makes aftermarket valves or repair kits (As far as I can tell anyway) they are bound to make a killing if they did given the mega prices MB want for new valves.....


So after the recent spending spree this is a step too far! Repair or good used replacement is my only option.


I might give this a go first-

The way I see I have nothing to lose at least opening it up & seeing if it’s full of goo or whatever. This 500E has only covered about 2k miles in the last 10 years!! So it has been sitting in a garage un used.

When the car is off the Duo Valve is in the Open (Heat) position. When the ignition is turned on and if the dials are set to cold then the solenoids click and it’s supposed to close.


So it would make sense that the car sitting for 10 years has corroded / gunged up the valve to the point where it cannot close fully anymore.


I will drive to a Mercedes breakers yard this weekend and see if they would have a Duo Valve with the same number / positioning of outlets that I can use on the 500E so I at least have a useable spare on hard should something be broken when I take the original 500E valve apart




EDIT- I located a used matching 4 port 500E type Duo Valve today. Bought & on it's way here

 

[JC220]

So the replacement Duo Valve turned up- its the wrong one. I described the 500E valve in great detail and the seller said he had one the EXACT match....... but the one that turned up has 2 Outlets on one side instead of 3. BUT the solenoids look the same at least


I am going to pull the solenoids off the valve fitted in my car & see what's going on with it! The way I see it it's already broken anyway. Hopefully I can repair the 500E duo valve using some parts out of the valve I just bought. Or maybe all it needs is a de-sludge and cleaning of the valves.

On other news I'm done with a very thorough Waxoyling including spraying the inside of the chassis rails! The Front driver's fender was also removed from the car and the entire inside Waxoyled. The other side will get the same treatment before this winter.

The car will be back on it's wheels tomorrow at long last after the mega service I'm working around the clock now to get her ready

 

[JC220]

I got the 500E duo valve out..... look what I found!! There was nothing wrong with it at all besides some idiot letting a slither of rubber get into the cooling system. It had nicely wedged on side of the valve open to full heat


Rebuilt & tested- problem solved!
It pays to take these things apart before buying another, they are pretty robust. Now I have yet another Duo Valve to add to my spares collection

 

[gsxr]

NICE! Have to love an easy fix. But how in the world did that piece get through the pipes/hoses...?

 

[JC220]

NICE! Have to love an easy fix. But how in the world did that piece get through the pipes/hoses...?

I was wondering that myself- I guess the upside is the waterpump is healthy! A/C service can go ahead anyway next Friday which is good

 

[JC220]

Well as I had suspected now that duo valve is functioning again the A/C is fantastic!! Ice cold air right as soon as the hot air is turned off. Plus with the EC mode turned off the side vents are working properly.

Ill get get the A/C re gassed anyway it's only £45 and they drain & re fill with the fresh lubricating oil etc. At least I have no huge bill waiting for bust A/C parts

 

[JC220]

Well today is a good day! I was up at the streak of dawn prepping the car for it’s first mini road trip since the Mega Service. Drove it around the coast for just under 4 hours and it didn’t miss a beat. Cruise, Climate control etc is all 100% working as it should and no warning lights post harness replacement!


I must admit it was heaving going there for a while I almost took on too many jobs at once but I don’t regret that now the car has came on leaps and bounds since I bought it a short time ago.


A few applications of WOT confirms the car is still blisteringly fast and now it’s Eco Junk Free! It also now sports the E500 badge to help distinguish it from it's lesser brethren

 

[Maui]

What! No pictures of the car on the Irish coast?

 

[JC220]

What! No pictures of the car on the Irish coast?

I would have got pictures except it was pouring down when we got to the coast! There'll be plenty more opportunities for pics I'll have lots of outings this year in the 500E. I'm thinking of getting pics of it at the dark hedges.... Any game of thrones fans should be familiar with that location

 

[JC220]

So now the car is on the road and running correctly it's time to get back to the performance exhaust I would like, I got a quote of £1000ish for an exhaust specialist to knock up a cat back system (using an off the shelf Powerflow rear silencer- £90- 120ish part?) which I do not think is worth it since I could make a similar system myself for an absolute fraction of the cost..........


I already have a new boxed Magnaflow silencer sitting around that I can use on the 500E. (For the E36 build- but I'll get another for that car no problem- it doesn't need it right now) In fact the Magnaflow silencer I bought is pretty much identical to 2 Phast's. Single 3 inch inlet & outlet.


I want to keep the Cat's original and un-molested so the system will go from the twin cat pipes back, deleting the centre muffler and running to the magnaflow. Here is my plan;

Use a 2 - 1 collector Y piece to merge the twin Cat outlet pipes into 1x 3 Inch.

From the Y collector back use a single 3inch pipe and mandrel bends to make my way to the Magnaflow Backbox.

3 Inch Mandrel bends to get me out of the Magnaflow silencer below the bumper to dual tips.

I'll use stainless wire in my Mig to tack the system together on a friend's lift. Then take it off & have a TIG pro weld it all up for me.


I am not expecting Power gains or anything just to release some of the V8 rumble out the back!




The stock middle & rear muffler assembly will be kept, therefore the mod can be reversed very easily to return the car to 100% stock exhaust if desired.

Right now I don't have mega bucks to spend on the Exhaust- but I do think that I should be able to come up with a good sounding stainless Catback system myself.

I'd love to hear you guy's opinions & suggestions for how I can get the best sound in terms of the pipe configuration etc

 

[JC220]

I was working on the car again last night and went to disconnect the cable to the Air Pump. It runs right in underneath the front headlamp and I can feel the edge of some sort of plug but I'm not sure since I can't see it at all.

Is there a plug in under there & if so do I really have to remove the headlamp assembly just to unhook it??

I'm going to view a few m119 spare motors in a salvage yard this weekend. I'm hopeful that one of them might have an Air Pump 'bypass' pulley on it that I can snag to enable me to delete the Air Pump on my 500E. If not ill order that pulley from MB that Bing had posted pics of before.

 

[JC220]

Well the Battery Drain is gone for good this time!


The Pic is somewhat self explanatory! (Note that the only cable which was causing the drain was the ECU power feed. Everything else- central locking etc functions 100% normal- you would not know the relay is even there except taking the boot trim out) The Relay will now be tucked away and the boot trim panel put back in.


There are ZERO ill effects of this setup- the car knows no different! The relay is powered up by the ignition switch on position 1 (For a few milliseconds headstart before ignition – Starter).

I will find the root of the problem when I have more time but- for right now- for the first time in years I suspect the Battery can be left connected without going flat overnight




Going to unhook that air pump cable shortly. I figure that headlamp will have to come out- bummer

 

[e500.org]

Well today is a good day! I was up at the streak of dawn prepping the car for it’s first mini road trip since the Mega Service. Drove it around the coast for just under 4 hours and it didn’t miss a beat. Cruise, Climate control etc is all 100% working as it should and no warning lights post harness replacement!


I must admit it was heaving going there for a while I almost took on too many jobs at once but I don’t regret that now the car has came on leaps and bounds since I bought it a short time ago.


A few applications of WOT confirms the car is still blisteringly fast and now it’s Eco Junk Free! It also now sports the E500 badge to help distinguish it from it's lesser brethren




View attachment 50818View attachment 50819View attachment 50820

Joe, the E500 has come along lovely and looks better than when we owned it 11 years ago. You've unlocked the potential in a relatively neglected and unloved car and it looks like you have lots more planned.

Would you be attending the E500 meet on 18 June? It would be great to meet you and see the car.

Cheers,

Bill

 

[bing]

I believe the wire with the male pins goes to the pump clutch. The body/chassis side should have female pins. The connection is buried behind the passenger headlight and held in place with Zip ties, it's nearly impossible to disconnect without pulling the headlamp assembly out of the car - very annoying!

[emoji6]