Ignition wires are a completely different subject and there's no easy answer. Most all the aftermarket wire sets are generic (to fit multiple models) and some of the wire lengths are a bit off. Clark was offering custom-made wire sets (he's located in Ft. Lauderdale, Florida, btw) but I don't know if he has any left:
http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6441
I would recommend NOT buying the generic Bosch-branded wire sets, the type with light gray insulation and plastic orange plug boots... the gray insulation is very fragile and often tears just inserting into the plastic wire trays. The OE Beru wire is significantly more durable, IMO. Also, the ignition wires generally don't need replacement unless they are damaged, or are arcing (visible at night). They are solid-core, non-resistor wires and tend to last a very long time. The spark plug boots have resistors inside and these can be tested/measured to see if they are OK. The boots can be replaced individually IF they are OE/OEM with threaded connectors. Some cheaper aftermarket wire sets cannot have the boots un-threaded from either end.
EDIT: forgot to mention that I believe ignition wires tend to be over-replaced on the M119. The typical American cars with plug wires used carbon-core resistor wires which do tend to fail more often, and may need replacement every 50kmi or so. Since the MB OE wires are solid core, they can literally go 200kmi+ without a wire failure (might have a plug boot or two fail during that time, but not the wires). I think I've heard of one or two reports, total, of people who found the wire insulation failing which resulted in visible arcing at night. A few years ago I went on a binge replacement of my wires with custom-length, custom-built sets and found zero change in power, smoothness, or anything else. The most important outcome was a significantly lighter wallet.
Well I got the ignition system replaced but it wasn't plain sailing! Someone had already kindly rounded the small Alan bolts holding on the LH rotor arm. Bolt extractors couldn't get enough grip so I drilled the centre of the old rotor out using a right angled drill adaptor so I could get a 5mm Alan key through to undo the bracket bolt. Then with the assembly out I cut the bolts which were holding the remains of the old rotor on.
The insulators were in top condition so with the new Bosch parts fitted the car purrs! Silky smooth idle and it catches / fires up faster than before too when the starter is turned. The new ignition leads were a pain to route around the m119's cable tracks correctly but I got there in the end.
I was able to renew both King HT leads without taking the headlamp out. There was just enough room to struggle with popping the covers off the coils and swapping the leads.
I'm kind of getting used to having zero access at anything when working in & around the 500E! Who needs skin on their knuckles anyway??
– plus this has to run alongside my E36 build which will pick up again soon
)
can almost say for certain it is the generator gone bad.Ive seen some examples also about the data wire to the generator wearing,and breaking.
But usually when the facelifted cars have this red battery symbol..it is either battery, or generator.OR the "extra"battery.under the right hand side of the windshield.Or on the rear right hand side in the back.
You should get it diagnosed
i would provide the info that i know of to help out if needed
