• Hi Guest !

    Welcome to the 500Eboard forum.

    Since its founding in late 2008, 500Eboard has become the leading resource on the Internet for all things related to the Mercedes-Benz 500E and E500. In recent years, we have also expanded to include the 400E and E420 models, which are directly related to the 500E/E500.

    We invite you to browse and take advantage of the information and resources here on the site. If you find helpful information, please register for full membership, and you'll find even more resources available. Feel free to ask questions, and make liberal use of the "Search" function to find answers.

    We hope you will become an active contributor to the community!

    Sincerely,
    500Eboard Management

OWNER JC220

E36 Widebody or C124 Widebody?

  • Use the 500E widebody kit on my E36 saloon

    Votes: 2 22.2%
  • Adapt the 500E widebody kit for my 320CE

    Votes: 7 77.8%

  • Total voters
    9
  • Poll closed .
Another note is that head gaskets do deteriorate over time! This is the S320s original 1995 head gasket exactly as removed. It was crumbling apart and delaminating and I find this in most all 20+ year old MB engines. They won't last forever, about 25 years old is very close to end of life of HGs IMO.

20220422_205319.jpg20220422_205324.jpg20220422_205330.jpg20220422_205337.jpg
 
Joe, Did it crumble when you pulled it up? OR As you removed the head?

Reason I ask is I don’t think if left un-disturbed it would look that bad. There’s no real evidence of 500E head gasket failure that I’m aware of. I certainly wouldn’t be changing head gaskets just as preventative maintenance. Glen’s high miler has 625K +/- miles on original engine w/ no tear downs
on record.
 
Joe, Did it crumble when you pulled it up? OR As you removed the head?

Reason I ask is I don’t think if left un-disturbed it would look that bad. There’s no real evidence of 500E head gasket failure that I’m aware of. I certainly wouldn’t be changing head gaskets just as preventative maintenance. Glen’s high miler has 625K +/- miles on original engine w/ no tear downs
on record.
Hi Terry, yes there would have been some crumbling as I separated the head and block. Some of the gasket material stayed behind.

What I am talking about more specifically is the delamination and swelling of the head gaskets over decades of use. Whilst some material undoubtedly peeled off upon removal, I also didn't cause the gasket to delaminate, rust and swell itself before hand.



This is the m119 head gaskets from one of my other engines which had no issues. I was renewing the timing system and valve stem oil seals etc so this is usually more stress free by removing the engine first and once out I replaced the head gaskets anyway which is what I recommend.

20220423_093547.jpg20220423_093528.jpg20220423_093518.jpg20220423_093505.jpg

Its true that some cars are still successfully running original head gaskets yes.

But given they are now 30 years old I would be replacing them and rebuilding top ends too. Who knows what other rubber seals and gaskets will go NLA over the next decade.

In any case, I'll be replacing mine anyway as I go and when the engine is due other work. I do have 2 other m104 cars most likely still running their original head gaskets. I'll replace another one this winter to keep on top of that. The m104 in particular leaks oil to the rear right of the head which is what my S320 was doing probably for at least 10 years:

20190303_124949.jpg

The machine shop I use locally is top notch and gives me trade prices at this stage!! So this m104 head skim and work was only £140 for example. All in including new gaskets (OEM but not from dealer) I'm at about £200 - £250 to rebuild this top end.
 
The AMG wheels on my w221 were due a refurb anyway but this was fast forwarded this week when not one but both front wheels cracked at old repairs letting the tyres down slowly.

20211016_151005.jpg

I have dropped them off with the wheel refurb guy so should have them back in a week or two hopefully. I went for metallic black with diamond cut faces - should look good, modernise and man it up a bit. I think so anyway I guess I'll find out soon!
 
I did struggle to get a tow bar for my S320. Most online vendors here have ceased w140 towbars. No one local had any - again off the lists now!

I had bought one from a ebay vendor in Germany. Ebay also Wrongly charged extra taxes but I paid it. And the seller then cancelled the order not understanding NI is still part of Europe market!! And wouldn't re instate the order.

I was lucky and found that mercman breakers in UK had one. A good used and complete Bosal detachable towbar. £84 + postage was a great deal also. It arrived today. It will be a small restoration project as I'll remove the old wiring and double sockets and repaint etc. POR 15 then Matt black.

20220423_143207.jpg20220423_143025.jpg

But Bosal is top quality and better than the other new one would have been. So I am very pleased with this find. The detachable ball means it can be stowed in boot and there is no visible tow bar on the S class unless being used on the day.

My W140 won't be towing much at all BTW just very occasional dump run with my dual axle builders trailer.

I did also manage to hurt my back this morning between taking my w221 wheels off and collecting this towbar from post office. So cylinder head replacement definitely off for today. I am off work Monday so maybe I'll be OK to carefully do that work then.
 
Yes definitely the first few generations of M104 head gaskets were not good. I think about 10 years ago they got a better design with more reinforcement and they seem to not leak like the older ones did. In any case, if you're running an M104, if it is still on an original head gasket at 100-120K miles it's no question bad and in need of replacement. M117s too, seem to need replacement at the 150-200K mark.

M119s seem to be much more robust.
 
I just finished installing my mid rise scissor lift yesterday evening so will be putting it to work on my S430 this week and also begin putting my S320's engine back together now I have all the parts and my back is better

20220502_201458.jpg
 
@JC220, WoW, That’s a tight fit in there w/ the S500. I’m sure you have a system for access though. That X-Lift looks good in there.:thumbsup2: It should be a great help in preventing aching backs in the future.

Your garage reminds me of mine you need a can opener to get in your cars albeit you can move one out. Next to my 500E is my Wife’s “Stuff”. It doesn’t roll :jono:
 
@JC220, WoW, That’s a tight fit in there w/ the S500. I’m sure you have a system for access though. That X-Lift looks good in there.:thumbsup2: It should be a great help in preventing aching backs in the future.

Your garage reminds me of mine you need a can opener to get in your cars albeit you can move one out. Next to my 500E is my Wife’s “Stuff”. It doesn’t roll :jono:
Yes for sure space is at a premium Terry! The S500 doesn't help matters being a land barge 😀

I placed the lift such to maintain a path down the right side which is where I enter and exit the garage and bench etc on back wall. Also the welder and an engine on dolly needs to be able to pass down the right side.

The shelves on the left will come away when I get the garage extended which will relieve the space a bit. But any work on the left side of the car on the lift will require the other car to go outside which is easy as I have a large rear yard so just reverse out and done.

And ultimately this floor will be coming up completely and relaid with proper powefloated slab and recess this lift into floor.

I will also add a fibreglass garage pit to the left bay in order to allow for torquing of suspension bolts with wheels loaded etc.


I have one 2 post lift but will get another one and both will go up in new extension. I should be well set by then!
 
Yes for sure space is at a premium Terry! The S500 doesn't help matters being a land barge 😀

I placed the lift such to maintain a path down the right side which is where I enter and exit the garage and bench etc on back wall. Also the welder and an engine on dolly needs to be able to pass down the right side.

The shelves on the left will come away when I get the garage extended which will relieve the space a bit. But any work on the left side of the car on the lift will require the other car to go outside which is easy as I have a large rear yard so just reverse out and done.

And ultimately this floor will be coming up completely and relaid with proper powefloated slab and recess this lift into floor.

I will also add a fibreglass garage pit to the left bay in order to allow for torquing of suspension bolts with wheels loaded etc.


I have one 2 post lift but will get another one and both will go up in new extension. I should be well set by then!
At least you have room to expand. Also, you being an Architect muEst be very helpful in designing a perfect layout. I will be excited to see your new layout.

I’m not that lucky mine is a tract home. Neighbors home is 10’ away from my garage. Of that only 5’ is mine. Plus I would never add on to this property.
 
At least you have room to expand. Also, you being an Architect muEst be very helpful in designing a perfect layout. I will be excited to see your new layout.

I’m not that lucky mine is a tract home. Neighbors home is 10’ away from my garage. Of that only 5’ is mine. Plus I would never add on to this property.
Do you keep your 500E inside Terry? Is it a single garage?

Yes I will do my own plans and I pass alot of work to one structural engineer. He has already insisted he will do the structural plans for my extension also as a return favour so my design fees will be nill pretty much!

I know how I want to build it which will be cost effective but also dry, spacious and warm of course. Wringing out the maximum space I can and best build for the £££££. That's the plan anyway and talking of which I really do need to get onto my own plans when I can 😁
 
Joe, I have a DBL car garage. My 500E is snug as a bug in a rug. Lately, it hasn’t seen the light of day much. It was off the road about 3 years due to my health problems. All I did was start it once in a while and move it out in the driveway and warm it up for a bit then back in the garage it went. I received a left new hip joint and also a right knee joint over the last 2 years. You kind of loose interest in working on cars when you don’t feel well.

Last year near the end of August Glen came up from Carlsbad (50 mile drive for him) and helped me out on a Saturday to get my new ACM Fan Clutch installed. Which was really nice of him and much appreciated. So I took it and got it Smogged and a current CA license and put it back on the road. I’ve only driven it about 300 to 400 miles since then. In fact last week I waxed about 1/2 of the car and plan on finishing the job this week. Anyway I’m slowly getting things squared away again on my 500E:)

My garage has a 16’ wide door. Inside it’s about 20’ wide but lined with storage cabinets on each side. When I pull the 500E in and close the garage door I have about 2” between the door and the rear bumper and about 3’ in front to my work bench which is I think is about another 3’ deep.

The problem is my Wife’s “Stuff/Junk” takes up one parking space which is half of the garage. Funny thing, I’ve lived in this home since 1977 (45yrs) and only in the first week could we park two cars in the garage. After that it started filling up with “Stuff”. You can accumulate a lot of “Stuff” in 45 yrs. My/Wife’s 84 Euro 500SL lives in the driveway under a car cover and a tarp. She lost interest in it about 8 yrs ago and went out and bought herself a Cadillac. Then the 500SL failed CA Smog and got parked and covered. It’s currently on a “Non-Operation” registration. Not sure what I’m going to do with it.

lol
 
The AMG wheels on my w221 were due a refurb anyway but this was fast forwarded this week when not one but both front wheels cracked at old repairs letting the tyres down slowly.

View attachment 146123

I have dropped them off with the wheel refurb guy so should have them back in a week or two hopefully. I went for metallic black with diamond cut faces - should look good, modernise and man it up a bit. I think so anyway I guess I'll find out soon!
Took a bit of a gamble on the metallic black with diamond cut but I think they look fantastic on the car and make it look more modern at the same time

20220510_205632.jpg20220510_211234.jpg20220510_205548.jpg20220510_205600.jpg
20220510_205617.jpg

They compliment the chrome on the car and also the front grill very nicely. I think all black would have been cheap looking but the diamond cut with black works great.

At next service soon I will clean and repaint the brake calipers and brake disc hats with satin black caliper paint. (It is a diesel so whilst big in comparison to other cars the brakes are nothing special)
 
Joe, I have a DBL car garage. My 500E is snug as a bug in a rug. Lately, it hasn’t seen the light of day much. It was off the road about 3 years due to my health problems. All I did was start it once in a while and move it out in the driveway and warm it up for a bit then back in the garage it went. I received a left new hip joint and also a right knee joint over the last 2 years. You kind of loose interest in working on cars when you don’t feel well.

Last year near the end of August Glen came up from Carlsbad (50 mile drive for him) and helped me out on a Saturday to get my new ACM Fan Clutch installed. Which was really nice of him and much appreciated. So I took it and got it Smogged and a current CA license and put it back on the road. I’ve only driven it about 300 to 400 miles since then. In fact last week I waxed about 1/2 of the car and plan on finishing the job this week. Anyway I’m slowly getting things squared away again on my 500E:)

My garage has a 16’ wide door. Inside it’s about 20’ wide but lined with storage cabinets on each side. When I pull the 500E in and close the garage door I have about 2” between the door and the rear bumper and about 3’ in front to my work bench which is I think is about another 3’ deep.

The problem is my Wife’s “Stuff/Junk” takes up one parking space which is half of the garage. Funny thing, I’ve lived in this home since 1977 (45yrs) and only in the first week could we park two cars in the garage. After that it started filling up with “Stuff”. You can accumulate a lot of “Stuff” in 45 yrs. My/Wife’s 84 Euro 500SL lives in the driveway under a car cover and a tarp. She lost interest in it about 8 yrs ago and went out and bought herself a Cadillac. Then the 500SL failed CA Smog and got parked and covered. It’s currently on a “Non-Operation” registration. Not sure what I’m going to do with it.

lol
Sorry for late reply - I hope your health is improving Terry 🙏

Your garage space sounds very much like my front garage where my 500E is supposed to live but my E220 coupe is in there. Very little space around the car but it's a very well sealed warm garage where my 500E ought to be and will be again late summer all being well.

I don't have the same problem with my GF putting stuff in the garage! Indeed I don't think she has even set foot in my garage for years 😃 I have too much stuff for my garage spaces. Car Parts & tools etc. When I get the garage extended I plan on buying more shelving and proper tool boxes 6 ft tall so everything can be stored away properly and not constantly in the way
 
Talking of my garage extension I did also recently buy a good used stove planning for it:

20220508_212617.jpg

It is a Stanley stove like my living room so used to how to run it and get the best out of it. Will fit new door seals and repaint it before installing.

I seen the add on a free advert site - Gumtree. Usually nothing but idiots on it. Free adds free idiots. But the seller was an older gentleman and even took down the advert and kept the stove for me with no deposit until I could turn up to collect it.

I paid him extra for this kind gesture and he was really surprised 😀. He sent a very nice message that evening saying he was telling grand children he got more than he advertised it for and couldn't believe it. Gentlemen like him are few and far between these days.

I have kerosene space heaters etc. But as I tend to work on my cars during weekends in winter mostly I think it will be great to be able to light the stove and let it tick over as I'm working on my projects. And on exceptionally cold spells light it and let it run all night low to keep some heat in with the cars.
 
Good story. I still find some deals on Craigslist although the amount of frustration with folks is whittling away my enthusiasm. It's good to see someone else making proper use of limited garage space. Once you get things worked out it becomes more enjoyable.

I have a woodburner in my enclosed sunroom and love it. I use propane in the garage when necessary. My small stove is only good for about 3 to 4 hours between loading. Vogelzang. I would like to have a small stove in the garage.
 
Greetings from Hvar Island Croatia 🇭🇷 😀

20220514_141421.jpg

I have been enjoying the great food and wines of Split, Croatia & surrounding Islands or a few days home tomorrow. As an Architectural Technologist I note the interesting history and beautiful Architecture. The cobbled side streets with small Patisseries and Gelato shops are amazing!! Highly recommended.

Best bit is I'm still off work on Monday and will be getting the cylinder head re installed to my S320.
 
Yesterday was the first day this week where it wasn't raining hard all day! So I got the head back onto my S320.

Set and confrimed the mechanical timing and with the new chain it is now perfect on the timing marks unlike before where there was chain stretch even at just 113k miles.

The crankcase is sealed again so now I'll order the last of the new parts for the engine (New petrol & LPG fuel lines and injector seal kits for example) and get it buttoned back up and running inside the next week or two hopefully. (The underbody and brakes still require alot of work but at least the engine will be done)

20220521_131926.jpg20220521_192701.jpg20220521_204356.jpg
 
Whilst still awaiting parts for my S320 I had a feeling of deja vu and got back to my S430 with the driveshaft and Diff getting rebuilt:

20220603_111045.jpg20220604_191312.jpg20220607_220209.jpg
20220607_220418.jpg

The driveshafts had a cracked reluctor ring and this was an ABS fault code before I took the S430 off the road. So I went ahead and fitted new boots etc and a pair of reluctor rings. Fresh grease and ready to go now with 100% new hardware on hand to re-install them.

The Diff had very minor weepage at the front seal but I went ahead and renewed the side seals and re sealed the rear cover plate whilst its out. Awaiting a 40mm socket in the post so I can renew the front seal then the diff and shafts can go back in this weekend.

The propshaft Centre bearing was also ripped and in bad repair (They always are) so I fitted an OEM Swag assembly and will also paint the propshafts before install.

20220605_161116.jpg
 
Update, weather has been crap so I have kept after my S430 and got the diff and driveshafts re installed at the weekend. I used POR15 then a satin black chassis paint which looks OEM.

20220612_143641.jpg20220612_143626.jpg

I am going to end up doing a full nut and bolt restoration on my S430 that's how it's headed! But as a rolling restoration. So I'll return to the rear hubs and suspension arms and restore / replace them as the case may be this winter. For now I want to get the trans tunnel waxoyled, clean the engine compartment, repaint any scratced or rusted areas in there and get the re sealed engine and trans reinstalled with new radiators etc and get it back on the road.

The brakes were rebuilt before and all new lines and hoses etc. I will now paint the calipers too and I left its sorry looking 18s in for professional refurbishment. Going for metallic silver with diamond cut lip.

20220611_101939.jpg20220611_101933.jpg

In its past life this S430 lived near the sea (or in it) but this car is slowly becoming the world's only fully restored w220 :hooked:
 
What a great way to spend a Saturday. w140 S320 underbody resto been putting it off as long as I can

20220618_125026.jpg
The only way this can be done correctly is by removing the subframe which I am doing now. It didn't help that stevie wonder fitted the brake lines and the LPG installer must have also been in a real hurry saying as he ran the lines through the subframe!!!

All people who didn't give a F about their workmanship. It'll be re-done correctly now it'll just take more time ⏲️
 
@JC220,

Joe, Living in a contentious weather environment sure takes its toll on car bodies. I’m always amazed at the amount of rust that you have to contend with in the UK and in Europe.

For the most part SoCal cars are rust free. We see none of the rust that plagues the northern “rust belt” albeit it seems that cars parked for long periods of time on the street in ocean towns that are exposed to salt air do have more bad paint and corrosion.

I’m 10 miles due north from the ocean and as an example my original 500E back box muffler has been stored (wrapped in a black plastic trash bag) on the backside of my home for at least 15 years and still looks like it did the day I put it there. BTW, it’s time to re-bag it. I was back there the other day and noticed that the bag has been shredded and needs replacement. That’s how I know the muffler is still in good shape.

lol
 
Ouch, that looks bad!
Bet its not the only rusty spot that needs some love.
Looking forward to see it once you fixed it!

@JC220,

Joe, Living in a contentious weather environment sure takes its toll on car bodies. I’m always amazed at the amount of rust that you have to contend with in the UK and in Europe.

For the most part SoCal cars are rust free. We see none of the rust that plagues the northern “rust belt” albeit it seems that cars parked for long periods of time on the street in ocean towns that are exposed to salt air do have more bad paint and corrosion.

I’m 10 miles due north from the ocean and as an example my original 500E back box muffler has been stored (wrapped in a black plastic trash bag) on the backside of my home for at least 15 years and still looks like it did the day I put it there. BTW, it’s time to re-bag it. I was back there the other day and noticed that the bag has been shredded and needs replacement. That’s how I know the muffler is still in good shape.

lol
Thanks for the comments and yes I know on the face of it this looks bad but it is inevitable here with salt used on the roads.

And actually this S320 is a very solid car. The inner wheel Wells etc are 100% solid only light surface rust here and there.

For some reason I find that above the subframe in mercedes is very vulnerable to rust. I think the factory applied a thin layer of paint there and no underbody rubber coating. So it is the first to fail. But again this car is in good condition its only surface rust no welding required up here.

(Some minor localised welding is required at the cills though will I'll deal with soon)

Subframe out. Bushes are split and knackered so will air hammer them out later and get to wire brushing with grinder and POR15 etc. It won't be driven in salt again in my ownership so this will solve these rust issues for good.

20220618_151458.jpg20220618_151506.jpg

I will be making new hard lines for fuel and brake lines from Kunifer now I'm in there and will renew the LPG pipework and hoses.

With the cost of petrol now the LPG system will be put to use soon!! I did have to drain the fuel tank so my 500E will burn that fuel in the coming days. It came out crystal clear and fine to re use.
 
This would be a great form of capital punishment 😩 but from under the layer of peeling underseal and surface rust there is a solid car

20220618_163456.jpg20220618_163605.jpg20220618_163616.jpg

Another hour should have the large section above the axle on the car all wired brushed properly with grinder and drills then will move on to the de greasing and metal prep stages so by tonight the car will have had its 2 coats of POR15 and be sealed from the elements.

20220618_163801.jpg
 
Another hour should have the large section above the axle on the car all wired brushed properly with grinder and drills
Well I underestimated that! It took about 4 hours of wore brushing yesterday and the second coat of POR 15 has to go on within 2 hours so was out painting until 10.30pm to complete.

For those who haven't used it POR15 when applied properly is a very tough plastic like coating which firmly adheres to steel. I followed this with chassis black paint.

20220619_175639.jpg

The whole underbody will get the same treatment along with waxoyl to complete which gives a smooth satin black finish and rust really will never come back after that.
 
Don't tell us you keep the old lines and hoses in place with the rear axle removed 😉
Hold up a minute now the axle has only been out less than 24hrs I'll get to it :jono:

This will take weeks to work through properly front to back the new lines will be done when I'm ready but not quite yet.
 
I was only joking. I did not expect anything else from you.
Looking forward to the result!
Thanks yes it's a fair point to get new lines with axle out. I am now contemplating new suspension arms and possibly getting the subframe blasted and galvanised but then the subframe is so big I'd need a trailer to move it and I need this w140 to have a towbar :doh:

Trying to not turn this into a full nut and bolt restoration as I do not have time for it and this car will benefit more from getting back on rhe road sooner than later too.
 
This S320 already was getting all new Bilstein springs and gas shocks etc. I added propshaft Centre bearing and guibos to the list along with the 4x subframe bushing kits.

I will go ahead and loosen the top suspension bolts when I have full access and apply anti seize. And for now de rust and paint the subframe with POR15 etc and re install the rebuilt diff & shafts etc.

The suspension arm bushings are all tight but the arms look tired. So at a later date I can re visit that and renew the arms but for now the new parts list is already sky high and I need to plan the restoration work so I get it done to high standard but also don't go down the same rabbit hole and turn this into a full rebuild.
 
This is the type of injector seal kits I get which include upgraded all metal injector filter buckets

20220623_191909.jpg

My S320s injectors will be stripped and fully ultrasonic cleaned and flow tested at the same time in a couple of weeks time when I am ready to start the engine again.
 
Update, weather has been crap so I have kept after my S430 and got the diff and driveshafts re installed at the weekend. I used POR15 then a satin black chassis paint which looks OEM.

View attachment 148417View attachment 148418

I am going to end up doing a full nut and bolt restoration on my S430 that's how it's headed! But as a rolling restoration. So I'll return to the rear hubs and suspension arms and restore / replace them as the case may be this winter. For now I want to get the trans tunnel waxoyled, clean the engine compartment, repaint any scratced or rusted areas in there and get the re sealed engine and trans reinstalled with new radiators etc and get it back on the road.

The brakes were rebuilt before and all new lines and hoses etc. I will now paint the calipers too and I left its sorry looking 18s in for professional refurbishment. Going for metallic silver with diamond cut lip.

View attachment 148419View attachment 148420

In its past life this S430 lived near the sea (or in it) but this car is slowly becoming the world's only fully restored w220 :hooked:
:update:

Got my S430 wheels back. They are not genuine AMG but I couldn't locate any of those in these monoblock 3 style which I do really like.

Diamond cut edges with metallic silver and all clear powdercoat.

20220626_155239.jpg20220626_154638.jpg20220626_154623.jpg20220626_154549.jpg20220626_154602.jpg
 
I have been chipping away at the S320 but with limited time. Have some days booked off work soon to get properly after it.

I did start the laborious task of de rusting the subframe and getting it into POR15. Some areas were done tonight as a start it will take several days to work my way around it and get it all properly prepped and treated then satin black the whole thing and have it ready to go back in by mid July (lots of work to be done on the car too before this goes in)

20220629_222101.jpg
 
My OCD got the better of me again! I just bought all new rear suspension arms and hardware for my S320. So I will fully dismantle the hubs and subframe tomorrow and continue painting it. This means the rear suspension and subframe bushes will now be 100% new on this car. And full set of new drop links, springs and shocks front & rear.

It should ride like a new w140 which will be interesting as it was still fantastic before!

None of the current arms are worn in particular. It's mainly that they are rusty, 105k miles / 27 years old and the hardware is in poor condition. No point reinstalling this and having to revisit stripped / knackered fasteners in the future again. Full access now, get it renewed and be done with it.
 
It was definitely the right decision to tackle removal of the old hardware now when the subframe is out:

20220702_205731.jpg

I got it all apart including the rose joints at the above location in the hub. With full access it was OK. In car would have been almost impossible.

There is only one bolt which refused to come out. I brunt up my last sawzall blade trying to cut it so will drill it out tomorrow and start pressing in the new subframe bushings
 
I got the last seized bolt cut out today and also removed the rear bushings for renewal.

I heated and pressed out the middle first then cut almost through the walls of the old bushing with a die grinder. This was then easy to peel out with a screwdriver and reveals a perfectly undamaged bore. On old bushings like these using a 20 tonne press can deform the arm on removal if your unlucky. This way garanteed no damage to arm and ready to press in new bushing.

20220703_164010.jpg20220703_165825.jpg20220703_171543.jpg

I also went ahead and installed the 4no new subframe bushing set. This was a painful 4 hours to makeup tools to get them installed but it's done now. Lots of parts coming by post and I have 5 days in a row off work soon so hope to get the underbody finished at the rear and get the bare subframe bolted back into the car. Then re install new arms etc after on the car.
 
I do also want to renew the rear brake backing plates. Problem is w140 ones are dealer only and £100 each.

I cam buy new aftermarket w220 rear brake shields for £23 and I think they will fit the 140 also. Will give it a try first anyway and if they don't fit no biggie will have it for my S600.
 
For most of my life I've wanted a die grinder, or even a "zizz" wheel after seeing how useful they are for so many things. I do have one now along with the compressor. Frozen bolts? Rusty bushings? No worries.
Yes they are Fantastic I have an m12 one and if you haven't got em already you really need bits like these too:

Screenshot_20220704-203906_eBay.jpg

For example on that bushing removal I used the pointed cutter which makes for very fast accurate cutting and material removal. Far faster and more control than say trying to split with a blade.
 
Starting your own plating business? It's time to come clean and tell us how you have cloned yourself.
Yes its like plating only reverse! I am using a car battery charger to remove the rust


This way even whilst im sleeping rust is being banished :star:
 

Who has watched this thread (Total: 6) View details

Back
Top