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Leather Repair and Restoration

KarlC

E500E **Meister**
Member
Soon I plan to Repair and Restore the Leather in my 2nd E500, its a 1994 with Tan Leather, I will take a few photos along the way and post them here.

I will be using http://www.leatherique.com/ for this project

I order Kit #3 is for Front and Back seats - For the above average size project (has 32 oz of dye 32 oz Rejuvinator Oil, 32 oz Prestine Clean and 32 oz Prepping Agent and 1/2 oz of Crack Filler) $140.00

Does anyone have a Doc on how to remove the seats ? I'm thinking its pretty straight froward, but I'm sure having the proper instruction would help.

Thanks
 
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I removed my front seats when I first got my car and did a leathermaster's clean up on them.

There used to be a write-up on the old board, but it is pretty straight forward with just a few bolts, a plastic covering, and the wires under the seat. For the 1994:

1. the springy covers at the front are a real pain in the ass to reinstall. Wearing safety goggles when removing/reinstalling them is highly recommended. Perhaps a face shield. Don't ask.

2. Purchase a few of the plastic covers along the back that cover the bolts to the center tunnel: 124-919-35-20: as they are highly likely to break.

3. Place a towel or something soft along the door sil. The front seats are pretty heavy, and it helps to have someone inside the car helping take the seat out. The seat has number of very sharp edges which could cut/tear/rip the rest of your car as you take them out.

Jano
 
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Also, you will want to remove the armrest from the driver seat and place both front seats in the forward-most and lowest settings possible. Also, remove headrests.
 

Thanks !

My previous E500 was in like new condition when I got it, when I sold it and I'm sure it still is, so I never had to do any repair work.

With this one I'm doing a lot more that just washing and waxing, I'm enjoying all of the work, but I do miss the like new E500 for sure.

Thanks again DerFuror for the info, your post are always very informative !
.
 
Mercedes and their vacuum lines. Why does a seat need a vacuum line?
It doesn't. However optional orthopedic seats (not available on the .036) will have a pressure line. But no vacuum. On the E500E, there are only electrical connections to the seats...

:banana1:
 
Karl, why not just do the Leatherique application with the seats still inside the car? I've seen some how-to's on the process and most people leave the interior intact and then park the car under the sun to let it really build up heat. Just a thought if you don't want to pull everything out.
 
Karl, why not just do the Leatherique application with the seats still inside the car? I've seen some how-to's on the process and most people leave the interior intact and then park the car under the sun to let it really build up heat. Just a thought if you don't want to pull everything out.

I may consider this, I have read that doing it in the car with the car setting in the sun during parts of the process helps.
 
For the Prestine Clean & Rejuvinator, you could probably do it in the car. But for the dye process, I'd want the seats completely removed. I pulled mine out for the treatment as well, you can put plastic bags over them and leave them in the sun outside. Photo below from my '87 300D years ago...

:seesaw:


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Some of my Leather is great, like the drivers seat back, it must have been replaced cause its like new.

But some of it needs work, here is what the bad parts of my leather looks like now .....


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The back seats are pretty nice, they just need a real good cleaning and conditioning, so I started with them. The shine is the oil it will soak in.


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Man, that passenger seat looks tired! Is this a combinition of California sun and a heavy passenger ?:roll:
 
I understand that the leatherque will re-dye uncracked leather perfectly. But how the heck are those front seats going to turn out?
I think on mine only new cover will fix the bolster wear. Do these recaro seats have MB traditional horsehair pads?

Michael
 
Please post some "after" pictures on those front seats!!

I will as soon as they are done, I am still working on all of it, this whole process takes several days.

Man, that passenger seat looks tired! Is this a combinition of California sun and a heavy passenger ?:roll:

I cant say for sure, but your right it's pretty bad, the PO was an Art Dealer, maybe he and his customers got in an out of the car a lot ? Thankfully my drivers seat back was replaced by the PO as its close to new, even the drives seat bottom is better than the passengers so it may have been replaced at one point also.

I understand that the leatherque will re-dye uncracked leather perfectly. But how the heck are those front seats going to turn out?
I think on mine only new cover will fix the bolster wear. Do these recaro seats have MB traditional horsehair pads?

Michael

For cracks and small holes they have a filler, for larger stuff some have put a small piece of leather under the issue or mixed some shredded leather and filler to cove the issue and then smooth it out with the filler.

Of course new covers would be best but I wanted to try this and see how it turns out. Look on the web at photos and videos and you will be amazed at what can be done to old leather.

Here is just one example .... http://www.leatherique.com/bmw-redye-project.html
.
 
Leatherique will clean and condition but it will not mend cracks or peels as the ones shown in the photos. Routine leatherique treatments would most certainly have prevented the leather from reaching that state had they been done before.

:blink:
 
Leatherique will clean and condition but it will not mend cracks or peels as the ones shown in the photos. Routine leatherique treatments would most certainly have prevented the leather from reaching that state had they been done before.

:blink:

From the Leatherique web site, note where it talks about crack filler and holes ....

Ever wonder how leather tanneries get those cow skins in all those different hues and finishes? Leather comes in only one natural finish, and with a little help and the right, water based products you can easily repair leather, restore leather color, do leather color changes, and become more knowledgeable about your fine investment.

The first step to successful leather restoration is keeping the leather hides healthy. There are too many cheap commercial products on the market that are quick fixes and contain only petroleum distillates that weaken leather stitching and fibers causing splitting, silicones that harden leather, and waxes that only make leather shiny and trap dirt and contaminants on the hide. We recommend your first step always be several applications of our leather Rejuvenator, a leather specific protein collagen complex that will actually nourish the hides, restore leather’s tensile strength, and keep the hides flexible and supple as you work. These directions will pertain mostly to the automotive leather restoration, but apply to furniture leather restoration as well. Detailed furniture redye directions can be found on our furniture leather care page.

Before you contemplate your leather redye and restoration, it is also important to know a little about the type of leather you are working with. Automotive leather prior to about 1992 was all a surface sprayed lacquer. Due to the EPA investigations into the toxic waste of leather tanneries back in the ‘80’s, they were all required to begin using more environmentally safe technology, including water based dye. Our company originated the water based dye technology back in 1963 not for commercial gain, but to restore the interior of George Pavlisko Sr.’s 39 Bentley. After a meticulous ground up restoration, Anne Pavlisko commented that the car looked great except for the brown interior. She added that the interior would look better green to compliment the exterior of the car. So to please his wife, through trial and error, George Sr. perfected our water based leather dye technology.

Surface sprayed lacquer hides will require more attention to leather prepping, as the finish often becomes very fragile and oxidized. Newer leather hides after 1992 are finished with a water based product that is very compatible to the new Leatherique dye you will be using, so prepping is easier. You’ll need to break down about 1 mil of the surface. This is important so the new leather dye can bite into the leather and look natural. Nothing is more glaring and obnoxious than leather that looks like vinyl due to heavy build up of surface colorant and improper prepping. Once you have completed all the steps of first nourishing your leather hides, prepping, and then leather redye, you will have emulated the original process with which your hides were first tanned prior to installation in your fine automobile



1. How to prepare your Leather surface for Redye

LEATHER RESTORATION/PREPPING YOUR LEATHER SURFACE

You will need Prepping Agent, fine grit sand paper, 400 to 600 grit for lacquer finish, 600 to 1000 grit for water based finish, and a clean, empty bowl or container. Pour a few ounces of prepping agent into the bucket and use that to dip your wet or dry sand paper into. Also have plenty of paper towels to wipe dirt from the surface of the leather.

Using 400 grit for lacquer, or 600 grit for water based finish, lightly wet sand the leather to smooth out any cracks and hangnails in the surface. Do no remove so much of the old Leather dye that you create suede. Wipe surface with soft rags or paper towels to remove as much of the faded or oxidized old Leather Dye as possible. Do not attempt to redye over damaged dye. Be sure all old dye is broken down, and all previous treatments such as silicone, wax or oil product residue is gone. Then resand with 600 grit for lacquer, or 1000 grit for water base to create a perfect flawless finish to apply your new dye.


How to fill cracks, cigarette burns and other imperfections on leather

If you are filling cracks with Leather crack filler, this is the time to do that step. Apply Leather crack filler only into cracks, not near grain. Allow to dry 20 minutes and refill as necessary. For holes in leather, a mechanical repair will be necessary. Insert a patch larger than the hole, (a piece of canvas or leather fuzzy sides together) carefully into the hole. With a toothpick, spread a small amount of craft or leather glue into hole and press to adhere. Fill remaining scar with layers of Leather crack filler. Resand Leather as necessary with 600 for a smooth, flawless finish. Allow project to sit overnight or about 6 hours to allow prepping agent and crack filler to dry.

2. LEATHER REDYE/LEATHER RESTORATION

LEATHER RECOLORING AND PROTECTING YOUR LEATHER SURFACE

After the Leather surface is clean and prepped, simply brush or spray on your new Leatherique Leather dye.

You will need Leatherique Dye, top quality synthetic, very soft, acrylic type artist brushes, very small for piping and wider for larger areas, and a dirt free environment, preferably indoors. *Thin Leather dye if necessary to prevent heavy buildup of color. Temperature of 70 to 85 degrees, low humidity, no rain.

Pour all the Leatherique Leather dye into a suitable container so it can be stirred and mixed properly with a wide paint stirer. (tupperware type with lid) Some pigments are heavier than others and settle. Start with a small, inconspicuous area to get a feel for the product. * If it is too thick, stir in a small quantity of water to reach workable consistency. Your color has been matched to your swatch or oem color using the newest computer technology, and most long lasting high quality pigments available. It is normal that the color may appear more vibrant than the faded hue you have become accustomed to. Begin with the seams, piping and edges and allow them to dry. (Usually by the time you are done, they are dry) Then proceed with broader areas. Apply several very thin coats, brushing in all directions rather than back and forth. Do not stop in the middle of a panel. Consistency will be rewarded with a professional job. Allow each piece to dry thoroughly. Apply second coat as necessary. If doing a COLOR CHANGE, another coat will be necessary. Clean brushes and all equipment immediately with soap and hot water.



2 A LEATHER CARE/LEATHER RESTORATION/ LEATHER REDYE WITH AIR TYPE SPRAY GUN

Pour all your Leatherique dye into your Tupperware container and stir well. Pour ¾ of your dye back into the bottle and seal. Begin thinning your dye about 10-25% with hot bottled water. Do not use tap water as the chemicals can discolor your finish. Leatherique dye can be thinned for spraying up to 50% with bottled water, or to your equipment specifications. Set your equipment for a fine, almost dry mist coat. Spray 2-3 fine, dry mist coats to cover. Check your seams, piping, and other areas where build up can occur and clean with soft artist brush if necessary. We do not recommend thinning all your dye at one time. Pour it all into the container, stir, pour ½ back, and thin only as much as you need. Clean your equipment with soap and hot water.



2B LEATHER REDYE/LEATHER RESTORATION/LEATHER RECOLORING

BLOTTING TECHNIQUE

There is a wonderful detailed article on our website by Mike Charness outlining his Conooly leather redye on his Ferrari. Mike redyed his Ferrari about 15 years ago, and it is still winning shows. Mike chose the blotting technique for his leather dye application as his leather was not polished smooth as Connolly leather in Rolls Royce and Bentley is, but rather is more casual and was left in a highly grained state. Mike wanted to maintain the grain, so the blotting technique allowed him to work the dye into the leather and maintain all the grain. This is a wonderful technique, and if you are good at it, also provides wonderful results.

3. Final step to beautifully restored and recolored leather hides

Allow project to remain untouched for 48 hours, as dye will be fragile. This curing time is important, as it allows the new dye to bond and conform to all the fibers and pores of the hide to become permanent rather than sit on top. Then with a very soft, lint free cloth, you may buff the Leather Surface to a natural luster. If you have any brush strokes or imperfections, they can be buffed out with fine 1000 grit dry sandpaper. For regular maintenance, wipe gently with a soft cloth and Prestine Clean to help extend the life and beauty of your leather.
 
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Wow! That looks incredible! How long did that take?

It did not time it, but I will say this is my first time so long that it should have, but I am enjoining the process and its moving along better and faster as I go.

Hi, can you post pictures from your front seats after?
Thank you, regards Uli

So far I have only patched / repaired 1 of the front seats so there is still much to do, I will update here as I go along.

I STRONGLY recommend http://www.liquidleather.com/. Awesome results. You have filler available for the deeper cracks in the forniture shop.

I have read good these about them, and also the Leatherique products, they both look to have the same type of process and products.

Thanks all
 
Armrest Update ......

Impressive improvement on the armrest there! A couple questions....(1) did you try to use the Rejuvanator Oil/Pristine Clean process BEFORE using the crack filler? (2) did you use the Super Prepping Agent before using the Crack Filler? (3) after using the crack filler, did you apply a dye?

Thanks!
 
Impressive improvement on the armrest there! A couple questions....(1) did you try to use the Rejuvanator Oil/Pristine Clean process BEFORE using the crack filler? (2) did you use the Super Prepping Agent before using the Crack Filler? (3) after using the crack filler, did you apply a dye?

Thanks!

The basic steps are ....

1) Vacuum and light clean, I did not scrum to hard as I did not want to make the dried up leather worse
2) Rejuvanator Oil - I did this 3 times, cleaning each time
3) Pristine Clean
4) Super Prepping Agent - Sand / Strip
5) Patch tears / holes
6) Crack Filler - Let dry sand, then redo if needed
7) Dye - Let dry 48 hours

Here is a great care and cleaning guild done by a professional detailed with the Rejuvanator Oil and Pristine Clean http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-Pro/leatherique-leather-care-how-to/
 
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Now I'm starting on some of the repairs that need done to the front seats.....

This is the passengers side, a seam that was coming apart, you cant just fill this will the crack filler, you need to make the seam strong so it will last ....

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I cut it open to gain better access to the underside

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The leather strip I will reinforce the underside with., notice it is much longer and wider than the seam split

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Tuck it under the seat leather and make sure that it is flat and smooth

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Then I glued it all together and used tape to pull the seat leather back together and clamp it shut

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How it looked after the glue dried

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How it looked after 400 grit wet sanding with Super Prepping Agent

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Then I filled it with the crack filler

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Next steps, sand crack filler, fill again as needed, its very important that the fill and sand smooth steps are done well so the end resold does not have any voids or bumps.
 
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Last nights repair and filler work....

Passengers seat is pretty bad, I'm really not sure how this is going to turn out but its got to be better than it is now

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Cut Leather reinforcement pieces

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Inserting the Leather reinforcement pieces

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Leather reinforcement pieces now under the seat leather

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All glued up and taped / clamped in place

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Drivers seat bottom cracks filled

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Drivers seat bottom sanded, note that the seat back is really nice so it must have been replaced by PO

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Passengers seat still in progress

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This is like one of those old-time news paper serial stories. I can't wait to see how it turns out. Thanks for posting.
 
Boah, well, with all respect: Your front seats are dead! The perforation never come back. And the sewing seams are gone. And if you repair all broken cracks, the next weakly piece will come.
Sorry
regards, Uli
 
Boah, well, with all respect: Your front seats are dead! The perforation never come back. And the sewing seams are gone. And if you repair all broken cracks, the next weakly piece will come.
Sorry
regards, Uli

Yes you are not the first to say that, it will be interesting to see how it turns out, thanks for your input.
 
Karl, although Uli's statement is rather blunt, he does have a point. What are you hoping to achieve? Fix them for a long time or use this as a fix-her-upper until you can find new seats?

That said, I'm following this thread with great interest. Please keep going and reporting :)
 
Karl, although Uli's statement is rather blunt, he does have a point. What are you hoping to achieve? Fix them for a long time or use this as a fix-her-upper until you can find new seats?

That said, I'm following this thread with great interest. Please keep going and reporting :)

I decided to give this a try first instead of tossing out the old leather and I'm hoping they turn out looking better and are stronger that when I started. The seam split and tears are now reinforced and are much stronger, so the next question is how will all of it look.

If nothing else maybe this will help some with smaller seat leather issues as it is one of the common issues.

You also have to keep in mind my natural thinking is to repair or restore when you can and not to just throw out the old and buy new. I built my business http://www.backtoperfection.com by doing repairs and restoring to perfection what people say can't be done , below is just 1 before and after example.

I'm also learning a lot and enjoying it, stay tuned and keep the input coming. Thanks
.

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Freunde, ich sag es mal in deutsch:
please translate!
Man muß wissen, wann es gut ist, Diese Vordersitze sind Schrott. Wenn die Perforierung nicht wäre, hätte man noch eine Chance.
Ich restauriere seit 10 Jahren und jeden Tag Ledersitze, ich weiß, was ich sage. Die ganzen alten Perforationen sind wie Briefmarken. Von Loch zu Loch reißt es immer weiter. Und die schönen Ziernähte werden mit dem Filler auch zugeschmiert.
Solche Sitzflanken müssen rausgetrennt werden, neu eingenäht werden und danach farblich angepasst werden.
Und vor allen Dingen:
Die Sitze müssen ausgebaut und zerlegt werden, damit man zum Lackieren überall hin kommt! Willst du das im Auto spritzen? Willst du innen alles abkleben und abdecken zum lackieren? Oder trägst du die Farbe mit Pinsel und Schwamm auf?
Das wird nichts.
Tolle Keramikreparaturen, aber Leder ist was anderes! Das kann man nicht vergleichen.
(Siehe mein Bild)

Oben links: Fahrerlehne vorher, Flanke kaputt
oben rechts: Flanke aus neuem Leder eingenäht
unten links. Fertig gefärbte Sitzlehne

Die Oberfläche sollte Seidenmatt sein, wie neues Leder.
Außerdem müssen die ganzen Risse ausgeschliffen werden. Das sehe ich bei den Bildern nicht! Nur den Filler reinschmieren, hält nicht lange. Die Lederoberfläche muß richtig entfettet, angeschlivven und grundiert werden. Auch kann der Filler mit einem bestimmten Mittel nass geschliffen werden, Ich verwende deutsche Produkte, aber im Prinzip ist alles gleich.
Nur zur Erinnerung: Wir reden hier über Ledersitze vom E500, nicht vom VW Käfer!
Da sollte man besser investieren!
Viel Glück noch!
Viele Grüße, Uli
 

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I will try any play along .....

"Man muß wissen, wann es gut ist, Diese Vordersitze sind Schrott. Wenn die Perforierung nicht wäre, hätte man noch eine Chance. Ich restauriere seit 10 Jahren und jeden Tag Ledersitze, ich weiß, was ich sage. Die ganzen alten Perforationen sind wie Briefmarken. Von Loch zu Loch reißt es immer weiter. Und die schönen Ziernähte werden mit dem Filler auch zugeschmiert.
Solche Sitzflanken müssen rausgetrennt werden, neu eingenäht werden und danach farblich angepasst werden" - Yes I understand and very much respect your experience and what you are saying. I have a plan to try but am well aware they will not look as new.


"Seidenmatt wie neues Leder, nicht so hochglänzend lackiert, wie die Rückbank." - Maybe you saw the oil still on the back seats ? All I have done to the back seat is oil and clean.


"Außerdem müssen die ganzen Risse ausgeschliffen werden. Das sehe ich bei den Bildern nicht! Nur den Filler reinschmieren, hält nicht lange. Auch kann der Filler mit einem bestimmten Mittel nass geschliffen werden, Ich verwende deutsche Produkte, aber im Prinzip ist alles gleich.
- I'm not sure that I understand what you are saying here.


"Nur zur Erinnerung: Wir reden hier über Ledersitze vom E500, nicht vom VW Käfer!
Da sollte man besser investieren!
Viel Glück noch!
Viele Grüße, Uli " - Don't give up on these old leather seats just yet. Thanks again
 
- Maybe you saw the oil still on the back seats ? All I have done to the back seat is oil and clean.
Yes I see the oil on the back seats.


"Außerdem müssen die ganzen Risse ausgeschliffen werden. Das sehe ich bei den Bildern nicht! Nur den Filler reinschmieren, hält nicht lange. Auch kann der Filler mit einem bestimmten Mittel nass geschliffen werden, Ich verwende deutsche Produkte, aber im Prinzip ist alles gleich.
- I'm not sure that I understand what you are saying here.
You have to grind each crack with a small Proxxon- grinder or something else. Than remove the dust with airpressure. Use a Primer before using a filler. You know, you have to use the filler repeatedly for big cracks. You can grind the filler wet with special liquid. Before painting clean (not with soap!) ang grind all the surfaces. You need primer again. Than you spray with an airgun the colour. you can dry it with a hotairgun. Than you spray the top coat.
I am using german products, but it is maybe the same like yours.
 
- Maybe you saw the oil still on the back seats ? All I have done to the back seat is oil and clean.
Yes I see the oil on the back seats.


"Außerdem müssen die ganzen Risse ausgeschliffen werden. Das sehe ich bei den Bildern nicht! Nur den Filler reinschmieren, hält nicht lange. Auch kann der Filler mit einem bestimmten Mittel nass geschliffen werden, Ich verwende deutsche Produkte, aber im Prinzip ist alles gleich.
- I'm not sure that I understand what you are saying here.
You have to grind each crack with a small Proxxon- grinder or something else. Than remove the dust with airpressure. Use a Primer before using a filler. You know, you have to use the filler repeatedly for big cracks. You can grind the filler wet with special liquid. Before painting clean (not with soap!) ang grind all the surfaces. You need primer again. Than you spray with an airgun the colour. you can dry it with a hotairgun. Than you spray the top coat.
I am using german products, but it is maybe the same like yours.

Yes that was done to get the proper bond, just like you would for bonding to any surface.

Yes repeat the filler if needed, I did this some but I don't want the spots to be perfectly smooth, I want them to show some to look like natural restored leather, not brand new never used leather. I also only filled the worst spots and left some of the lesser spots for the same reason, so it looks more natural and not all smooth.

I don't plan to use an air gun, or a clear top coat, just the dye and then leather care. Yes to all of the rest, and the weather should be right also as you know, the process and product sounds very much the same as what I am using.

Sorry maybe I needed to be more detailed in explaining all of the steps, thanks for helping all that are reading this to understand more.
 
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I have always found satisfaction in restoring unusual items. As you said, it's a learning process as well as anything else. I'm really enjoying your posting of the process, Karl. Nice job on the sink.

drew
 
For Glen, please keep in mind they are not yet done but there is progress .....

BEFORE - Drivers seat bottom cracks filled

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PROGRESS ..... (Note the fuzzy threads in this photo)

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Drivers seat bottom sanded, note that the seat back is really nice so it must have been replaced by PO

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PROGRESS ... (Note in this photo I shaved the fuzzy threads down some, I'm going shave them a bit more and try to lighten them up with another coat of dye)


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Wow, that's quite an improvement! No, it's not OE new but compared to what it looked like before, it's really, really nice.
 
That's amazing! Are you going to do another attempt at it with the dye? The only thing that stands out to me is that there isn't enough dye in the stitching seams on the seat bottom.

I must admit, I am really blown away with your progress!!! Keep it up! It makes me completely re-think my approach to my search if the seats can be rejuvenated that successfully and just with a lot of elbow grease and patience!
 
Wow, that's quite an improvement! No, it's not OE new but compared to what it looked like before, it's really, really nice.

Wow! Nice work. Congratulations.

That's amazing! Are you going to do another attempt at it with the dye? The only thing that stands out to me is that there isn't enough dye in the stitching seams on the seat bottom.

I must admit, I am really blown away with your progress!!! Keep it up! It makes me completely re-think my approach to my search if the seats can be rejuvenated that successfully and just with a lot of elbow grease and patience!

Thanks guys, I'm not done yet still more to do overall and some detail work also. This is my first time working with leather, so I am learning a lot along the way.

Yes I'm going to work on the stitching more, it needs to be shaved a bit more and more dye.

Sorry for the crappy photos, most are taken late at night in the garage and when I'm very tired.
 
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