To me, it does seem faster - but that could be because we are sitting in the car and waiting for the lights to drop. Nevertheless, the tree at the track seems a bit faster.I'm pretty sure our tree moves faster than that. Wouldn't you concur Steve
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To me, it does seem faster - but that could be because we are sitting in the car and waiting for the lights to drop. Nevertheless, the tree at the track seems a bit faster.I'm pretty sure our tree moves faster than that. Wouldn't you concur Steve
Thank you for the vid, Eric. Yeah, the GS400 I ran against was a bit slower, he ran a 15.328.Stevo, this is the video you wanted to see again:
[youtube]Y7QYOa0xzW8[/youtube]
(The reason Stevo wants to see this video is because there was another GS400 there on Saturday that looked just like the one in this video but he was stuck in the mid-15s vs. the solid 14s that this one ran.)
Regards, Eric
Are we talking oldworld or new world monkeys? The reason I ask: "All primates have some color vision--that is, they are at least dichromatic. Dichromats can see some colors but are blind to certain distinctions, usually the difference between red and green. Some new world monkeys only have dichromatic vision. Other new world monkeys as well as all old world monkeys and apes have trichromatic vision and can make all the color distinctions that humans with normal color vision can make."I think you could train a monkey to anticipate green lights, eh?!?
Are we talking oldworld or new world monkeys?
JustCentral and South America were/are also considered "The New World" and there are monkeys that are indigenous to those continents. I thought that is what Steve was referring to. I didn't know, was Steve attempting to make a funny?

So, Who had the best R/T of the day? The Old World monkey or the New World monkey?Just![]()
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Wait...who's who?The Old World monkey or the New World monkey?![]()
Eric, buddy! We gotta learn you how to use that there EPC. No need for a specific VIN, just use the chassis code (124030) and look up control units. The footnotes indicate which chassis used which ECU. And the EPC will show the approximate chassis range for each year. Early 86 used A0045453832, late 86 through 87 used A0055457232. 88-89 used different modules for CA and 49-state, then 90-92 also used different modules for CA and 49-state.Dave, could you please help me out? Do you still happen to have your VIN number to your 86 300E? I need to know what the CIS-E ECU part numbers were for that year but I don't have a 86 VIN number to run in the EPC. Could you please run your old VIN number in the EPC and post the ECU part numbers that come up?

...The Old World monkey or the New World monkey?![]()

Eric, buddy! We gotta learn you how to use that there EPC. No need for a specific VIN, just use the chassis code (124030) and look up control units. The footnotes indicate which chassis used which ECU. And the EPC will show the approximate chassis range for each year. Early 86 used A0045453832, late 86 through 87 used A0055457232. 88-89 used different modules for CA and 49-state, then 90-92 also used different modules for CA and 49-state.
My 86 was #A231796 and likely had the 005- ECU. Now don't make me go through the whole "blood from a turnip" thing again...
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BTW, Eric, you ever get a perfect light (0.000)...? Those are pretty hard to come by. Especially in competition (i.e., not test runs or time trials).
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No worries, mate. A full VIN comes in handy at times, especially on newer (late 90's-up) cars, but is rarely needed for W124's.Justin was teaching me and he told me we need a VIN #. Sorry.
Duuuuude. You should get a 300D 2.5T and tweak it a little. The gratification level you'd experience by beating people with a smelly old diesel would send you to nirvana.Like I said before, getting that 15.95 out of Benzer1 was honestly more gratifying than getting that 14.3 out of Benzer3 was.
Remember, the EPC lists replacement part numbers. The 002- was likely used in early production, and replaced by the 004- and/or 005- units. But the EPC does not always show the previous part numbers - sometimes it does, sometimes it don't. Only way you find out is when coming across something like you did. Same applies with M119 LH modules, the current EPC only shows two part numbers. I had to go back to an old, old version of the EPC to get the full Euro LH supercession data that's posted on my website (here). Might be able to do that with the 300E too, although it really wouldn't matter, as it wouldn't help you locate another super-early 002- module. Which is what I assume you are trying to do. (?)So if even an early early 86 only has a #004, where in the world did this #002 come from? I pulled it from a 86 300E but maybe it was swapped into that car from somewhere else? I need to know what cars they came in because I want another one for Benzer2 and another one for a spare! Did the W126 get the M103 in 85?
It depends on the track's timing system software. Years ago, the 0.500 was more common... today, most have upgraded to the current NHRA standard of 0.000. Some tracks still use the old system though. It's still a perfect light either way, but it's harder to prove that your 0.500 timeslip wasn't a really bad light. "No, really! At my track 0.500 is perfect, I swear!" Can't argue with a 0.000 on the slip...Back when I first started racing, .500 was a perfect light. And no, I've never gotten one of those either.
I've gotten three perfect lights (0.000) over the years, all in competition, but only two of those were against an opponent (third was in a "bye" run so it sort of doesn't count, IMO). First was in 2007 (the bye run). Second was in 2009 and it helped me win the track championship that year. Third was four days ago. Guess I'm not due for another until 2013, lol. I have maybe a dozen or so 0.00x lights but triple-oh's are bloody rare. My wife managed a 0.000 and 0.001 on the same day last year, she backed that up with another 0.000 and 0.001 this year (different days). And she has a bunch of 0.00x as well.What about you? What's your best ever R/T?
You might want to try bracket racing instead. You get the same gratification of winning with a hoopty ride (better yet, a slow hoopty) but you don't have to try and make it go fast - just consistent. Trust me, guys (and girls!) in fast cars hate getting beat by a 20-second turd. BT, DT (on the losing end!)For the record, we ARE racing! We're not playing, and we are not pussyfooting around. We are trying to win! Sure, we aren't in a season long competition, but we are trying to beat our opponent!

Yeah, when it comes to the EPC, one can train a monkey to use ... oops :razz:
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Duuuuude. You should get a 300D 2.5T and tweak it a little. The gratification level you'd experience by beating people with a smelly old diesel would send you to nirvana.
That is why I got over that plan real fast. 2) It would take a considerable amount of effort and $ to get a 2.5 diesel into the very low 16's, an E/T that I consider to be the bare minimum that is acceptable. It is for that reason that there is no way I'd settle for anything less than the 3.0 OM603, but then we have to deal with the crack prone head, which is more time and $. 3) I put next to nothing in Benzer1 to get him down to the high-15s/low-16s. How much money would it take me to get a 3.0 OM603 to that level? How much did it take you to get yours there? Another part of the gratification for me is the fact that I did it on a shoestring. I wouldn't have that with a W124 diesel what with the initial purchase price and the cost of getting the car competitive. Remember, the EPC lists replacement part numbers. The 002- was likely used in early production, and replaced by the 004- and/or 005- units. But the EPC does not always show the previous part numbers - sometimes it does, sometimes it don't. Only way you find out is when coming across something like you did. Same applies with M119 LH modules, the current EPC only shows two part numbers. I had to go back to an old, old version of the EPC to get the full Euro LH supercession data that's posted on my website (here).
Might be able to do that with the 300E too, although it really wouldn't matter, as it wouldn't help you locate another super-early 002- module. Which is what I assume you are trying to do. (?)
You might want to try bracket racing instead. You get the same gratification of winning with a hoopty ride (better yet, a slow hoopty) but you don't have to try and make it go fast - just consistent. Trust me, guys (and girls!) in fast cars hate getting beat by a 20-second turd. BT, DT (on the losing end!)
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A win is a win, regardless of the ET. And the R/T is a huge part of that win. You might want to try it sometime.For me, part of the gratification comes from out R/Ting my opponent (gratifies the driver in me) and part of it comes from creating a winning car from next to nothing that can hold it's own against more expensive, higher dollar iron (gratifies the car builder in me). Bracket racing only satisfies the driver in me.
This is a common misconception. Slower cars may have less issues with traction, but they are actually less consistent on their ET's, and more affected by wind. The best setup will be the quicker car allowed in the class (there's always a cut-off point), with zero wheelspin, that will have a consistent ET from run to run. The slower cars (say, 16-20 seconds) can vary a tenth or two from run to run, where the fast cars (say, 10-12 seconds) rarely vary more than a few hundreths, assuming no wheelspin or missed shifts. Having your car change 1-2 tenths between runs is a great way to lose in bracket racing.Slower cars are actually given a huge advantage in the brackets because they tend to hook better which makes them more consistent. To me it seems to take away the incentive to create a quick car. Where's the fun in that? (From a car builder's perspective.)

....your heads-up 16-sec races.
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I don't know man...it might be in the low 90's, again. http://www.weather.com/weather/weekend/92335Come-on Stevo Devo, you already committed to this date on the 15th! You can't bunk out now!

I thought ambient temps had absolutely NO effect on the M119 operational efficiency. Eh?it's gonna be so cold, the car might break into the TWELVES.

Hey, I was just going with the flow... if everyone else says I'm wrong, I must be!!I thought ambient temps had absolutely NO effect on the M119 operational efficiency. Eh?![]()


Indeed, you should have seen that picture - it looked like you were doing a burnout prior to staging. This time, with less humidity and some relive from hot weather in general (although it did clip 90F degrees) my times did drop, but I also think I got a little better this time around. I managed to spank all Mustangs I ran against except for one, a 10 second car. The fist 5.0 Mustang driver was all serious at the line, got his helmet on gave me a serious look and only managed a 14.6 against my first 14.2. The next two 5.0 Mustang’s were slower and got 14.7 and 14.8 while I had my second 14.2 run and one of my three 14.3 times. So I can safely say that my car performed better in cooler weather with less humidity.We raced once earlier but I went up in smoke on that run, the worst up in smoke run I've ever had with Benzer1



So, Dave, what times did you run?I'll be here for the "Last Blast" on Oct-29...
Get your mind out of the gutter...she's jail bait. Btw, have you ran against her in the past?That track girl's father works there too son so be careful!
She owns a 93 300CE that has run a best there of 15.9, same as Benzer1, but that's a 24 valve, variable timed cam, HFM 3.2 liter M104!
Regards, Eric
This is exactly the situation when one needs an 036. Not to mention with maximum bling - RENNtech carbon fiber airboxes, Full Monty door/trunk switch setups, and the ultimate aphrodesiac ...Get your mind out of the gutter...she's jail bait.

Btw, have you ran against her in the past?
There is a chance I might be working the 19th of this month, but that will not be confirmed until the begging of that week, otherwise I'll be there on the 19th - unless it rains.
Perish the thought of a Phoenix or Mickey Thompson sticker on your car instead of that Hoser sticker. Your wife wouldn't have a chance...Since I put the Hoosier decals on my car, my wife can't let me out of her sight or I'll get accosted by swarms of screaming girls.
Unfortunately, it's out of my hands and although this is only my own speculation at this time, I'll know more towards the end of next week.You need to come on the 19th.
Is this an AMG car?There is a good chance that a C43 from Sacramento will be there to race us.

Is this an AMG car?
Btw, I got a letter today from the Fontana track and apparently my .005 R/T qualified me for the Race against an NHRA Pro contest being held at the Auto Club Raceway in Pomona, CA on the 9th of November 2011. They will hold the finals on the 9th and the best R/T will have a chance to square up against an NHRA pro on November 13th...sheeeit.
I do recall the announcement at the track about the contest and anyone who got a .007 R/T or better that day would qualify for the contest in Pomona, but I was in the process of finding a track to listen to and didn't hear all of it. Either way I can't make it on the 9th, although it would have been fun to run in Pomona and represent the 036. I do have to reply with my decision by the 7th since they are providing lunch for attending racers and need an accurate head count. Oh well...![]()
Almost forgot, your .001 R/T on October 15th was against me, I got a .061 R/T on that run.