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500E LH modul change capacitor wrong dimensions on capacitor

Skikar

E500 Limited
Member
Hi
I have bought new capacitor to my 1994 LH module
100uf 50v and 22uf 50v se pictures

The size of 22uf 50v is to small its okay to use ?

The original size from the factory for the capacitor is same

It's safe to use the new I have bought?
 

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more info here:

 
Hi
I have bought new capacitor to my 1994 LH module
100uf 50v and 22uf 50v se pictures

The size of 22uf 50v is to small its okay to use ?

The original size from the factory for the capacitor is same

Its safe to use the new I have bought?
Physical dimensions do not matter (unless
It physically does not fit). Only electrical specifications matter.
 
Does anyone have the right specs for capacitor or link to where to buy
I suggest:

UBX Series Nichicon 100uF 50V 150F - 3 in each LH ECU
UBW Series Nichicon 22uF 50V 135F - 3 in each LH ECU

See data sheets below regarding their durability and applicability in severe-duty automotive applications:
 

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I suggest:

UBX Series Nichicon 100uF 50V 150F - 3 in each LH ECU
UBW Series Nichicon 22uF 50V 135F - 3 in each LH ECU

See data sheets below regarding their durability and applicability in severe-duty automotive applications:
Jlaa, just curious, what do you think of the shorter (?) lifespan of the UBX / UBW series, vs the ULD / UHE that Boxersix recommended years ago? I like higher temp ratings but realistically, we should never need beyond (or even close to?) 100°C temp ratings. Right?

:detective:
 
Jlaa, just curious, what do you think of the shorter (?) lifespan of the UBX / UBW series, vs the ULD / UHE that Boxersix recommended years ago? I like higher temp ratings but realistically, we should never need beyond (or even close to?) 100°C temp ratings. Right?

:detective:
I really have no idea. However I will point out that the lifespan rating consists of time at a specific temp. The ULD/UHE have longer lifespans rated at 105C than the UBX/UBW have rated at 135C/150C.

I don’t know how long the UBX/UBW are rated to live at 105C, but I will note that the datasheets for UBX/UBW mention automotive applications whereas the datasheets for the ULD/UHE do not.
 

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Jlaa, just curious, what do you think of the shorter (?) lifespan of the UBX / UBW series, vs the ULD / UHE that Boxersix recommended years ago? I like higher temp ratings but realistically, we should never need beyond (or even close to?) 100°C temp ratings. Right?

:detective:
I’m not sure about that @gsxr. When I went through this the fan codes were telling us the fans weren’t working, which to me meant the computer thought things were hotter than they should have been. Of course the fans were working just fine.

If you think of this engine sandwiched in too small a bay with the computers up against the firewall (and the car moving forward at speed), you can probably see why they needed fans in the first place. I would go for higher temp even with shorter duration. Change them again if they happen to fail. The engine needs coolant and a radiator to stay beneath 100*C yet all the computer box has is a fan. Which reminds me, I wanted to wrap or treat that box in something to keep heat away from it.

That said, I will check my records to see what is actually in the car. I’m in SoFL and so was my tech so heat would definitely have been taken into account.

maw

EDIT... Come to think of it, the problem first occurred when I drove the car 11 hours from SoFL to Central Louisiana. I hadn‘t thought about what IAT must have been.
 
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but I will note that the datasheets for UBX/UBW mention automotive applications whereas the datasheets for the ULD/UHE do not.
A couple of years ago, I had my LH module worked on by a retired electronic guru who was recommended to me by a friend. When I picked up the rebuilt unit from his house he handed back to me the bag of capacitors I supplied him. He said: "these would not be any good in high temperature like under the hood of a car".
 
A couple of years ago, I had my LH module worked on by a retired electronic guru who was recommended to me by a friend. When I picked up the rebuilt unit from his house he handed back to me the bag of capacitors I supplied him. He said: these would not be any good in high temperature like under the hood of a car.
Sam, do you recall what brand / type of caps you had supplied?
 
Some interesting information on capacitor selection for automotive applications: https://www.nichicon.co.jp/english/products/pdf/nichicon_automotive_e.pdf
Note UBT / UBX / UBW for ECUs..... as well, note optimal lead shapes, vibration resistance, and low-transpiration solvent composition considerations.

Probably more information than any of us have ever considered about capacitor selection. Certainly more than I have ever thought about! 🤣

1677778645467.png


1677778900404.png

1677779200929.png
 

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Thanks @Sam SL . I cannot tell what kind of caps you supplied are at the left, but the caps at the right look like RubyCon YXGs, data sheet below:

1677779517284.png

As well, attached is the RubyCon automotive applications guide. For aluminum electrolytic caps in Engine ECU applications, it looks like they suggest their TSV / TGV series. Note no mention of the YXG series (as your technician basically pointed out?)

1677779626259.png

Some specifics are below (note temperature and life span @ temp ratings).

1677779734124.png
 

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I would stay away from tantalum. They tend to short and explode. Stick with a trusted vendor like Mouser electronics or DigiKey. eBay sells a lot of counterfeit electronics. I was going to order capacitors today if anyone wants some I will sell for what I pay for them.
 
I would stay away from tantalum. They tend to short and explode. Stick with a trusted vendor like Mouser electronics or DigiKey. eBay sells a lot of counterfeit electronics. I was going to order capacitors today if anyone wants some I will sell for what I pay for them.
Which brand / type are you going to get? Just curious!

Totally agree about only buying from reputable vendors, and not buying based on price. Same as with any other replacement parts on the car... eBay can be a real gamble.

:seesaw:
 
What about mil spec tantalum?

Failure modes may be an issue. Not sure.

RayH
No,
I would stay away from tantalum. They tend to short and explode. Stick with a trusted vendor like Mouser electronics or DigiKey. eBay sells a lot of counterfeit electronics. I was going to order capacitors today if anyone wants some I will sell for what I pay for them.
I’m down for a couple sets please

What brand/model are you thinking of? The JLAA spec ones?
 
I ordered Nichicon capacitors [UBT series] Automotive severe application 125 [mod edit - these are 125, not 150] degree C. 2000-10000 hour life at 125C.

I ordered enough for 10 LH ECU’s. 2 of them for me and one for Sheward. Just send me a PM with address and I will mail them next week when I get the parts. Here is an example of what I ordered if you want to review the data sheet.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/UBT1H101MPD8?qs=9yI11AV48ZTyPYNitNpR4Q==&countryCode=US&currencyCode=USD
 
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I will replace caps in my spare ECU and all goes well and I feel good about the quality of the outcome I will offer help to members who do not have the tools to perform. Would like to keep it to $75 plus USPS and will know better one I do the first one.
 
I ordered Nichicon capacitors Automotive severe application 150 degree C. 2000-10000 hour life at 150C. I ordered enough for 10 LH ECU’s. 2 of them for me and one for Sheward. Just send me a PM with address and I will mail them next week when I get the parts. Here is an example of what I ordered if you want to review the data sheet.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/UBT1H101MPD8?qs=9yI11AV48ZTyPYNitNpR4Q==&countryCode=US&currencyCode=USD
I just returned home and was wondering if I was too late to take advantage of your generous offer and then I find you thought of me and our conversation. Thank You!

Let me know how much I owe you and I'll get it to you right away. I would gladly pay for a second set for my spare if that is possible.
 
I had @Alphasud40, who probably now has more experience than anyone else here on 124.036 ECU desolder/resoldering caps / conformal coating, put in these capacitors on my two LH ECUs:
  • [3pcs on early LH - 2pcs on later LH] of the UBW Series - 22uF - 50v - 135C - 493-14892-ND
  • 3pcs of the UBX Series - 100uF - 50v - 150C - 493-14901-ND
Everything works great. @Alphasud40 is the Don Roden of LH Modules. 😎

However, this one is now NLA -> UBX Series - 100uF - 50v - 150C - 493-14901-ND 😭

That said, it seems that one can still get 100uF 80V Nichicon UBX capacitors rated for 150C operation:

This one is still available -> UBX Series - 100uF - 80v - 150C - 493-17588-ND

If you are not interested in the masssive-overkill-spec UBX/UBW series Nichicon capacitors, you can use the merely-substantial-overkill-spec UBT Nichicons (125C) that @Alphasud40 likes using as well.

Nichicon Automotive Product Application Guide (latest one):
Screenshot 2024-03-14 at 10.20.05 AM.png


Nichicon Automotive Product Application Guide from 2021:
1710436943453.png
 
I just took my 500E for a 120 mile spin today …the first real drive after receiving my Nichicon UBX/UBW recapped ‘92 LH ECU back from @Alphasud40 some weeks ago. I drove up and down Hwy 1 from SF CA - lots of 25 mph - 65 mph driving with a whole mess of full throttle WOT kickdown acceleration runs and some, ahem, go-directly-to-Alcatraz speeds thrown in for good measure. Also some weirdo in black late model AMG something rather kept on flashing from behind me to pass …uh ….. dude ….. road is one lane each direction and there is a whole line of cars in front of me Mr. AMG ….. how you gonna pass exactly? Anyway the car felt strong and responsive, but curiously I got exactly 20mpg for those 120 miles. I don’t think I’ve ever gotten 20 mpg out of this car before. It was 60F ambient temps today and tires were at 33psi cold —- 275s in the rear and 245s in the front …. Not exactly fuel miser tires. 🤷
 
@Jlaa,
I’ve been on that road many times BUT unfortunately I’ve always had my wife with me and NEVER in my 500E and now it’s closed somewhere up there due to another landslide. I fear I’ll never get my 500E on it.

:runexe:

It was always a fun drive to the point when my speed alarm went off (My screaming wife):jono:

PS: It was not fun the night I was driving south in my 64 Buick Rivera and hit a skunk :banger: somewhere above Hearst Castle. My car stunk for about a week.:thumbsdown:

lol
 
Funny I ran over something in a rented buick on my way from Redwood City to the Hearst Castle. Its been 20 years, but maybe it was your skunk carcass.
 

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