OWNER lowman (Norge)

[lowman]

Also...here is a video i did about 1.5 month ago..when i started the " session"...The pictures you can see is more up to date than the video..but in the video it is easier to see how it looked like before
I hope you like it.

 

[luckymike]

Wow.

 

[lowman]

I also try to replicate some of the factory overspray.Like the black spray on the panel seams...seen here.

 

[TerryA]

View attachment 151337

View attachment 151338
1st price..best 1990"s car in show
View attachment 151339
1st price,best 2000"s car in show
View attachment 151340

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Congrats Stephan, Your cars are always WINNERS

 

[195910]

Congratulations Lowman, a well deserved win!

 

[lowman]

Congrats Stephan, Your cars are always WINNERS

Thaaaaank you soooo much,dear Teerrrrryyyy Dont know bout that..but at least i try to do the best i can.There were sooo many awesome cars there..it was not even " funny"
Some pictures for you
A friend of mine"s, Bmw e38 740....beyond imaculate condition.

Viper GTS..one of my favourite cars all time

 

[lowman]

Congratulations Lowman, a well deserved win!

Thaaank you sooo much mister I apreaciate your kind words alot. I guess i can be honest to myself and say that i at least had one of the better ones..for sure..but man there was alot of amazingly executed restorations,,,and cars in general

 

[195910]

Thaaank you sooo much mister I apreaciate your kind words alot. I guess i can be honest to myself and say that i at least had one of the better ones..for sure..but man there was alot of amazingly executed restorations,,,and cars in general
View attachment 151372View attachment 151373View attachment 151374

Unrestored always wins. You can restore a car any day but its only original once.
Keep up the good work and hope to see you in a concours perhaps in Germany

 

[lowman]

Unrestored always wins. You can restore a car any day but its only original once.
Keep up the good work and hope to see you in a concours perhaps in Germany

Thank you so much I will definetly come down to Germany at some point.Hopefully when i get my next car,I have plans i" need" a new "project"..

 

[lowman]

Hey people
Finally another video...definetly TOO long since the last video.Nothing very special this one..but nevertheless a new video I hope you like it .

 

[sheward]

Good to hear from you again, and thanks for the video. The stalk assembly in my 99sport has been loose but functional since I bought it so your tutorial will motivate me to correct the issue.

 

[lowman]

Good to hear from you again, and thanks for the video. The stalk assembly in my 99sport has been loose but functional since I bought it so your tutorial will motivate me to correct the issue.

Heey there mister Sheward Thank you for kind words I really apreaciate that And if it motivates you to get some work done to your car..i feel it was all worth it Inspire is always a good thing I do think the 99 will have a tad different procedure to remove the clock spring etc..or at least there will be some minor differences..but the main part of the job ( disconnect battery , remove airbag etc etc..)is all the same i reckon. Eitherway .Thanx for lovely comment I hope you are all good,mister Greetings from Norway ,Stefan

 

[lowman]

hellooo my friends
Long time no see..I will try and do something about that..
Just a little video for you all

 

[lowman]

So...a new family member arrived earlier this year.
Bluelightning is a 2005 Subaru Impreza Wrx Sti, with only 25000miles(approx). It features a 2.6 litre handbuilt Cosworth engine, Big valve head,etc etc..On this engine initially mapped to 580hp at the wheels. It is now " detuned" to around 440hp at the wheels,with still 650nm of torque
Plans are to return it to " stock"..or at least " close to it"..
Not going to bother you guys with this car..as it has obviously nothing to do with w124036....But at least i wanted to show it to you .I have som updates for my Silverwolf also .Been working on it lately..to sort out an oil leak that i could not find for the life of me.
But i have now found it...and there was 2 leaks..Fixed one..but still one to go
Eitherway...some more BlueLightning pics




















I also took both cars to a prestigious car show locally.I was asked to come there with my then "new to me Subaru"...and i also attended the same show with Silverwolf,because some screw up with some other cars not showing up...i was asked if i wanted to bring the e50 also..and of course Silverwolf and i did not turn down the offer





I hope you like the pics

 

[lowman]

People ,ladies n gentlemen
Do we have any experience with holding the flywheel, by one bolt replacing the bolt holding the converter to the flywheel?and let this bolt rest against the wall of the trans housing...while losening the front crankpulley bolt?
I need to replace the front crank seal..and i was hoping NOT to need the flywheel locking tool shown in the WIS.

What i want to do is this ...check out picture.
I will eventually get a 12.8 strengt bolt to use,..but i am really scared that the threads in the flywheel will be " bent" ..if that makes sense.I mean..the crankbolt is to be tightened with 400nm when going back on after seal replacement
All replies massively welcome Bolt in picture is just for demonstrational purpose.Will make a more solid " bolt" if doing it this way

 

[a777fan]

Definitely not an expert, but thats going to be a lot of force focused on one point. Not sure how far out from the crank centerline the flywheel bolt hole locations are, but a quick swag would give you an estimate of the amount of force you’ll be placing on that one spot of the flywheel and the trans housing. You could then perhaps do some googling on the strength of bolt holes sunk into whatever material the flywheel is made of, taking into account the thickness etc. Not sure how I would make myself feel better about the strength of the trans housing.

Are you time constrained on this job? The tool isn’t TOO exorbitant in price. Additionally someone on your side of the pond might have one you can borrow?

 

[lowman]

Definitely not an expert, but thats going to be a lot of force focused on one point. Not sure how far out from the crank centerline the flywheel bolt hole locations are, but a quick swag would give you an estimate of the amount of force you’ll be placing on that one spot of the flywheel and the trans housing. You could then perhaps do some googling on the strength of bolt holes sunk into whatever material the flywheel is made of, taking into account the thickness etc. Not sure how I would make myself feel better about the strength of the trans housing.

Are you time constrained on this job? The tool isn’t TOO exorbitant in price. Additionally someone on your side of the pond might have one you can borrow?

The bolt is not " protruding " alot more than two nut heights...if that makes sense...so there is not alot of " heigth difference../the centerline you are talking about.I feel that i have seen someone do it this way....which is the reason i was debating it..but i cannot find the " thread" again..i think ive commented on it aswell.(my brain is fried these days."laughs" .When it comes to the tool...it is rather expensive here in Norway,,its like 400 dollars from the dealer....and i really wanna get the job done as soon as possible..hence i do not want to wait for 3 weeks for one overseas So..thats why i was debating this..but i definetly am on your side when it comes to " alot of force on this bolt ...
Thank you for comment by the way

 

[sheward]

I wouldn't have worries about the threads in the flyweel. Steel flyweel and hardened steel bolt. Sheer strength is way up high on these items. My worries are the aluminum ear on the housing. Could you instead utilize a piece of pipe or wood wedged between the bolt and your hoist? This could require another hand in the process. Concern would be less if you are using an impact gun rather than a breaker bar.

If I were to attempt your method, I would insert a piece of wood between bolt and housing to distribute the load more evenly.

 

[gsxr]

emerydc8 use this method without incident years ago:

M119 front main crank / hub seal replacement | M119 Engine

My front main crankshaft seal is leaking and needs replacement. I've looked through the service manual and Mercedes calls for installing a special locking tool to prevent the engine from rotating while undoing the main bolt and later retorquing it to the required 400Nm. I looked for info from...

www.500eboard.co

 

[Kridre]

I also used this method, but I have put some plywood between the bolt and the transmission case just to be safe like @sheward mentioned.

 

[lowman]

I also used this method, but I have put some plywood between the bolt and the transmission case just to be safe like @sheward mentioned.

Did you get a 12.8 strength bolt also?and no issues / bending the bolt or ruining the threads in the flywheel?

 

[Rouven036]

I tightened loosened these with a proper air impact wrench/gun. Block the wheel on opened I as described and get full air pressure and get it going. 3/4 inch gun might be best. To tighten select a wrench which tightens 400nm, get proper air pressure, oil the bolt and washers well and tighten until the nut stops moving. No holding required as engine will be only slightly turned into actual direction of rotation. Never had an issue.

 

[Kridre]

Did you get a 12.8 strength bolt also?and no issues / bending the bolt or ruining the threads in the flywheel?

I think the highest one that I had was 10.9 but I also remembered that I made contraption like this to make sure that the load is not only on the thread and bolt have some support.

 

[lowman]

I think the highest one that I had was 10.9 but I also remembered that I made contraption like this to make sure that the load is not only on the thread and bolt have some support.

That is excactly what i had in mind ,and seen somewhere before. Awesome.I think i will try it this way .Though i would love to have the special tool..but i just cannot see spending 400plus euros..for a tool to use for this job

 

[lowman]

I tightened loosened these with a proper air impact wrench/gun. Block the wheel on opened I as described and get full air pressure and get it going. 3/4 inch gun might be best. To tighten select a wrench which tightens 400nm, get proper air pressure, oil the bolt and washers well and tighten until the nut stops moving. No holding required as engine will be only slightly turned into actual direction of rotation. Never had an issue.

To get a 3/4 or 1/2 inch impact gun down there .then you would need to remove radiator and AC condenser..which i did really not want to do But what did you mean..."Block the wheel on opened? I didnt understand that sentence... But...sounds like it will be possible to do without the locking tool at least.. Thanx for comment mister

 

[lowman]

I think the highest one that I had was 10.9 but I also remembered that I made contraption like this to make sure that the load is not only on the thread and bolt have some support.

Aaand...thank you so much for comment

 

[Rouven036]

To get a 3/4 or 1/2 inch impact gun down there .then you would need to remove radiator and AC condenser..which i did really not want to do But what did you mean..."Block the wheel on opened? I didnt understand that sentence... But...sounds like it will be possible to do without the locking tool at least.. Thanx for comment mister

It was a typo from autocorrect. Should have ment" block the fly wheel as described above".
And yes that way you do not need a locking tool.
I have had a locking tool gone bad trying to tighten it with 400nm. So I went back to the traditional and proven impact gun scenario.

 

[lowman]

So seal ring received.
I ordered first the Elring one...but as soon as I got it ,I felt the urge to get an original one
Check out the outer lip on the original one.,,being very different.The original seal has a taller outer dust lip.Though abit of the reason for it beeing taller,,is that the rubber thickness of the base of the lip, is different to the Elring one,,so you have the illusion of the lip being bigger,, than on the Elring.......if that makes sense.
Though the softness of the original one is greater..and i just have a overall better feeling about the original over the Elring one.It has to be said that (as most of us in here know ) Elring is a OE supplier also..so not to be talked down on i think.
I also got some proper 12.9 strength bolt today,alongside a long spacere to strengthen the bolt...just like EmeryDc8 and Kridre used
Here is some pics of the seals.
Will post some more pics later on "when " i start the work..i really am eager to get it done..but to be honest ..i am debating if i should get the proper holding tool..as i am scared of screwing up the flywheel with the " bolt" theory.hehe

 

[lowman]

So people
I could not rest my desicion on using only the one bolt as a looking tool,,,
So I made this locking tool instead.It is not finished,,cause im missing parts to make the distanse spacer between the plate and the flywheel,,,
But the main part of the tool is now made...
On the first pic you see the strong 12.9 bolt,,and the long nut,,that I am going to use as a spacer between the tool plate,and the flywheel...if that makes any sense I only bought one spacer/long nut ,as I was only planning on doing the one bolt thing.So i have to sort out one more long nut, before continuing the work

 

[500AMM]

Stefan, your old ride is for sale, still in very good stretch!

Bruktbil til salgs: Mercedes-Benz E-Klasse - 1992 - Svart - 326 hk - Sedan | FINN.no

Vurderer salg av en særdeles velholdt og pen 500E. Det medfølger omfattende dokumentasjon hva som har blitt gjort på bilen. De n første bildeserien er fra nå...

www.finn.no

Buy it back maybe?
...you know it hurts to let it pass...

 

[nocfn]

1, 2, 3 "BUY IT BACK" "BUY IT BACK" "BUY IT BACK" Hey hey hey people, I bought it back!

 

[TerryA]

@500AMM,
246Kkil/152Kmiles $38.4K US Dollars
It looks like in the 100 pics that the seller took it apart and put it back together again. I know that Stephan didn’t put that funky patch on the exhaust pipe. You can still see a lot of his gold paint on the undercarriage.

Edit: Looking back at Lowman’s for sale add had 76 pics in it and a lot of the work done are in the latest add with a 100 pics are Lowman’s. I think the latest seller’s add might be a little deceptive. The car was driven 15K miles since it was sold before May of 2020.

 

[500AMM]

@500AMM,
246Kkil/152Kmiles $38.4K US Dollars
It looks like in the 100 pics that the seller took it apart and put it back together again. I know that Stephan didn’t put that funky patch on the exhaust pipe. You can still see a lot of his gold paint on the undercarriage.

Edit: Looking back at Lowman’s for sale add had 76 pics in it and a lot of the work done are in the latest add with a 100 pics are Lowman’s. I think the latest seller’s add might be a little deceptive. The car was driven 15K miles since it was sold before May of 2020.

Terry, I think the seller is covered - he starts the description (Beskrivelse) in his ad by stating use of information & photos from the previous owner. Though I can't see any clear split between the 1st and 2nd series of photos, but I think the 2nd series starts at #38. And that exhaust patch is at least shown, so the car is actually very well documented:
<<Description: I consider selling a particularly well maintained and pretty 500E. Comprehensive documentation of what has been done to the car is included. The 1st series of photos is from the current condition, while the 2nd series of photos is from when the car was gone through by the previous owner. I also choose to use the text from the previous owner of the car.>>

The price level in the Norwegian 036-market has been climbing quite a lot over the later 3-4 years, and I would say the asking price on this car is about 80-85% of a max price I've seen here in Norway.

 

[TerryA]

@500AMM,
Thanks Arnt for the explanation. I don’t read Norwegian so well. In fact not at all. I envy you people that speak and read multiple languages.

Take Care

 

[lowman]

@500AMM,
Thanks Arnt for the explanation. I don’t read Norwegian so well. In fact not at all. I envy you people that speak and read multiple languages.

Take Care

The 1-37 pics are not mine.And no..the nasty exhaust patch is not my work The owner who owns it now...is the second owner after me.And to be fair..im kinda pissed off that he basically used the whole ad from when i sold the car., and most of my pictures without asking permission,because of this beeing for comercial use.He does have all my contact info..so... And with that said.i would have said yes of course..but it kinda bothers me that he did not bother to lift a finger to put some work in the ad..but rather " stole my pictures.He does state in the ad that it is " previous owners words and pictures..but in my nerdy picky world..that is not good enough. As i take pride in both my work AND my pictures. But enough of that Im replacing front crank seal on my Silverwolf E50 tomorrow.." hopefully

 

[lowman]

@500AMM,
246Kkil/152Kmiles $38.4K US Dollars
It looks like in the 100 pics that the seller took it apart and put it back together again. I know that Stephan didn’t put that funky patch on the exhaust pipe. You can still see a lot of his gold paint on the undercarriage.

Edit: Looking back at Lowman’s for sale add had 76 pics in it and a lot of the work done are in the latest add with a 100 pics are Lowman’s. I think the latest seller’s add might be a little deceptive. The car was driven 15K miles since it was sold before May of 2020.

And yes...i think the ad is abit deceptive aswell. The car is still good..but it is NOT in the same " cleanliness" condition.

 

[lowman]

Stefan, your old ride is for sale, still in very good stretch!

Bruktbil til salgs: Mercedes-Benz E-Klasse - 1992 - Svart - 326 hk - Sedan | FINN.no

Vurderer salg av en særdeles velholdt og pen 500E. Det medfølger omfattende dokumentasjon hva som har blitt gjort på bilen. De n første bildeserien er fra nå...

www.finn.no

Buy it back maybe?
...you know it hurts to let it pass...

View attachment 175049

I can put it this way>In some way..i regret selling it..and i would like to have it back.But at the same time..i am glad i sold it and i do not want it back I would not pay that massive profit, to some " guy who did not spend almost a " dime" on the car..I sold it for "almost"80000 kr LESS..that what it is offered for . And also..to be fair...my E50 is FAR nicer car to drive than the 036. OR ..let me rephrase...it is so different to the 036...and i so like the way it is different...that i am happy with my E50 But of course..ideally i would love to keep ALL my " previous cars..especially my 190e, my 500e, and my Sierra Cosworth.

 

[Efraim]

Hi guys in Norway!

When looking the registration data about the car in Vegvesen.no the vin is odd "20096810002". Can you open this?

 

[500AMM]

Hi guys in Norway!

When looking the registration data about the car in Vegvesen.no the vin is odd "20096810002". Can you open this?

I know the background but all I want to say is that it's nothing wrong with the car. I leave it to @lowman to explain that if he wants.

 

[lowman]

Hi guys in Norway!

When looking the registration data about the car in Vegvesen.no the vin is odd "20096810002". Can you open this?

yes.The car is "rebuilt". The actual car(my car) ,was imported to norway in 2009. The amount of fees to get this car registered in Norway at the time..was alot..so the owner ( who owns a body shop)...he got hold of a norwegian registered 500e...that was totalled. So instead of rebuilding the crashed one...the crashed car " got a new body"...meaning ..it then got the imported car" identity.To allow this...3 main components of the " crashed car..had to be put onto the imported car...so engine ...transmission and rear beam was put on to the imported car..and it was registered as a rebuilt car. After it was approved..all the original parts was then put back..and the car is then matchin numbers..but with a new "rebuiilt vin number".All this saved the owner of paying all the fees to get the car registered. But with the negative of it having this procedure done. But effectively...the car as you see it..is " untouced..not cutting in half stuff...its all a " paperwork thing" in the end. So you could actually reverse this rebuilt title..by exporting it to Germany..and then re import it back to norway.Because these days..there are no fees other than VAT , to have a car that is older than 30 years...registered. So again, the vin number you see..is a " new vin" to the car...that is basically the " Date" the car was registered as " rebuilt"...and a serial number... I hope this explains abit :9

 

[500AMM]

Hi guys in Norway!

When looking the registration data about the car in Vegvesen.no the vin is odd "20096810002". Can you open this?

Since Stefan don't own the car anymore and don't want it back, I can disclose the VIN on the two cars as explained above.

The totalled Norwegian donor car is WDB1240361B375265
The imported car replacing the donor car entirely is WDB1240361B775782

This information is not secret or hidden for any reason, but it is not directly available to the public. It is stored in the Norwegian DVLA's (Vegvesen.no) Technical Database and is given upon a written request by email or even over a phonecall.

 

[195910]

@lowman
I know some countries charge 200% import tax to protect the currency, but these usually have +100 Million populations.
What's the reasoning here?

 

[lowman]

@lowman
I know some countries charge 200% import tax to protect the currency, but these usually have +100 Million populations.
What's the reasoning here?

Greed from the government .hehe They will make money where they can..Obviously this is the " easy " way to see it..and i do think it holds water.But i reckon they have " their own reasons".

 

[lowman]

So it's off Im so happy my tool held up, and nothing broke ,or screwed up my evening

 

[500AMM]

I know some countries charge 200% import tax to protect the currency, but these usually have +100 Million populations.
What's the reasoning here?

Greed from the government .hehe They will make money where they can..Obviously this is the " easy " way to see it..and i do think it holds water.But i reckon they have " their own reasons".

Yes, it is the greedy gvmnt maintaining a petrified import tax policy. Norway is known to be among the richest nations in the world and that's exactly what it is - the Norwegian central bank is super rich, not necessarily the citizens and what we get in return.

 

[Efraim]

Thanks @lowman for the story.

This sounds very similar as it was in Finland on late 70's. I remember building Mercedes w115 "Made in Finland" with my father in our garage. He travelled to Germany where bought w115. Then motor, axles and some other easy parts were removed in service station backyard and sent to Finland as cargo. The chassis was lifted on lorry which dad drove to home. In custom all were cleared as parts, not a whole car as they travelled separately. Then we reinstalled the parts to get the car as whole, matching numbers. Car got plates after he paid required taxes which were much lower for Made in Finland car compared the exported one. Also the car got new Finnish serial number.

Nordic tax authorities are eager in their work, but car freaks are ready to work for they dreams.

 

[195910]

Thanks @lowman for the story.

This sounds very similar as it was in Finland on late 70's. I remember building Mercedes w115 "Made in Finland" with my father in our garage. He travelled to Germany where bought w115. Then motor, axles and some other easy parts were removed in service station backyard and sent to Finland as cargo. The chassis was lifted on lorry which dad drove to home. In custom all were cleared as parts, not a whole car as they travelled separately. Then we reinstalled the parts to get the car as whole, matching numbers. Car got plates after he paid required taxes which were much lower for Made in Finland car compared the exported one. Also the car got new Finnish serial number.

Nordic tax authorities are eager in their work, but car freaks are ready to work for they dreams.

Wow, so you basically had to smuggle a W115 in parts! But its just a normal car, its not like you build cars over there!

 

[lowman]

So here are some pictures ,from the work done ,replacing the front crank seal.Not very much to say rather than pictures speak for themselves.
Old seal aring

Sealring removed

New seal on the way in

Found some suitable old wheelbearing races to use as a pressing tool to press in the seal.

Double check the seal insert depth. I did not go full 3mm in as the factory tool does?but..at least far enough so it sits past the previous wear pattern.

Done

Always use the proper tightening torques. Also used proper sealant on the end of the bolts ..so i would not have any leaks coming from the bolt holes.

Torque wrench only went to 340...so the rest i tightened " by feel" .WHAT a massive force 400nm is.

Handy pulley tool i got along time ago.

I do the " yellow paint mark"..thing...both because of factory look.but also to actually remind myself which bolts been tightened and not.

Old to the right..and new to the left
f
Finished Some yellow markings all over the place

 

[lowman]

Also this little comparison Good thing to clean the viscous fan clutch.My goodness it was dirty
Look at it
Degreaser and my hefty tooth brush

Now it will work even better.I have not had any cooling issues..but i reckon the bimetal spring, will be more sensitive now though

 

[lowman]

Also gotta show of this engine bay picture.


Also this cool thing.This is the last remaining Volvo 240 ,that remains in somewhat "Service" at our local police station. It is used on special occasions..and not actual " crime fighting" We have had this in our shop..to fix some small carb issues..etc etc.FunFact:My uncle ,which was a cop( and his dad was also a cop) ..has more than likely.driven this car, when he was in the force from the 70"s to the 80"s.This is an 1985 model,if i remember correctly.
Rest in peace uncle <3